DarkShadows

Q: Are you first booting to PE doing sysprep, diskpart, etc, then booting into your unattended install? Or are you booting into PE and then just executing your install from within PE? (I'm new to PE). Q: When you run your diskpart script from within PE to create your drives, do the drive letter assignments survive into your unattended installation? Q: Could you post your diskpart script as an example? Thanks in advance!

That would qualify as Warez (software piracy). And this board frowns on that, as do I. XP can still make a bootable diskette, as can Ghost.

Of course, you then run the risk of Messenger Spam. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I have never once received a message through Windows Messenger that was not from someone I knew. You just have to know how to configure the software.

Actually, I meant 2002! So yes it was a typo, but I still do use an older version. Symantec still provides updates to NIS2002, but not technical support (I don't need it). You can still pay for subscriptions for 2002. Each year I download the trial of the latest NIS bloatware and I like 2002 all the more. The main reason, is convenience. I can add the Advanced Options to the context menu of the notification area icon. This means when I get to a web site that I've locked out but realize that I want to let in, I simply right-click once and I'm at the add a website screen. In 2003,2004,2005, you have to click like 5 times to get there. I swear Semantic wants to keep users idiots and punish advanced users who know what they are doing. If I do a security check with 2002, the online check tells me everything is fine except of course the version of my software. But my systems are clean, and verified by many online checks.

I couldn't agree more with this line-up. But I like to add Yahoo! Anti-Spy to it. Norton firewall is powerful, but only if you lock it down. The way it comes out-of-the-box is an open sieve. When you first install Norton Firewall (or Internet Security), go find the Advanced Settings, which have been buried deep since version 2002, and delete all the web sites listed. If you look closely, you'll see some are actually advertisers! Then go lock down everything. • Make the default to prompt you to allow Cookies, ActiveX, and Scripts. • Make the default to deny Email, Browser info, and User Information • Make the default to prompt you to allow any application internet traffic coming in or out. • Make the default to prompt you to allow remote connections. • Know your computer IP address. Add localhost to trusted sites. • Perform an Application Scan to review all the Internet enabled software you have. • As you browse your trusted websites, add them to the firewall Advanced Settings and open up access to them individually. • As you browse all other sites (not yet trusted), you leave them blocked (which is done by the default settings) until you see what the site does. If the site doesn't work you'll have to open up the things that we denied above (do it item by item). Then you must <Ctrl>+<F5> to hard refresh the site (forces page to re-download). The above approach is almost the exact opposite of the way Norton comes installed. But it locks things down really tight--anything that gets in, you know about and authorized. Sure you will get a bunch of prompts in the beginning, but once you get all of your sites in, things will be less interruptive. If you know what you are doing, you can get by with Just Norton and SpyBot, but only if you do your homework and configure them. I have customers for whom I've had to re-install all of their software, because of security compromises. (It's usually quicker than trying to clean up the mess!) With just these two apps, I have PCs that have re-installed that are running clean after 3, almost 4 years. All are using Norton Internet Security <Edit> 2002 </Edit> and SpyBot.

I have not seen a single anti-spyware application that catches everything, and I use (and recommend using) all of the following: • SpyBot Search & Destroy I consider this the best free option. And the best application to base a Spyware defense on. The spyware definition auto-updates and scheduled scans work very well. But I find that you have to check the web site for new software versions as the app doesn't seem to reliable notify when an upgraded version is available. The Immunize function and web host list options are priceless! (Make sure you configure settings to immunize after updates.) The ability to protect certain cookies while deleting all others, or not search certain apps while searching all others (or even certain registry settings within apps) is very nice. You have to do some homework in this app, it has more power than the rest, but you have to configure it. This is the most emulated (and outright copyright infringed) Anti-SpyWare software on earth. It often catches things others don't. • Yahoo! Anti-Spy Yahoo! Anti-Spy comes with Yahoo toolbar, and I consider it the second best free option. Simple interface; not many settings here. But it's not bad and often catches things others don't. • Adaware Personal I'm talking about the free edition here (I've never used the commercial license). I don't get as involved in this app as SpyBot S&D, but it's not bad and often catches things others don't. From what I know of people who use the commercial license, is that it's about equal to SpyBot S&D in terms of overall coverage, but each does things the other does not. • Microsoft Anti-Spyware I find that this app to be the worst of this list. It often consumes copious amounts of Virtual Memory (100+ MB) and slows down the system. I also find that when I <alt>+<Tab>, there is a hidden application window open somewhere but I can't get to it. You can only see it when this app is running in the Notification area and you are alt tabbing with the Cool task switching feature enabled. (So much for Microsoft knowing the inner workings of Windows. Actually, Microsoft didn't program this app, they bought out another company who programmed this app.) Don't assume that an app is better just because it's Microsoft. Microsoft still lists this as Beta, so that should tell you something. And Microsoft is the McSoftware company. This app should get better in time, but it has issues now. •PestScan Free Online scanner CA This won't remove anything for you, but another independent check is always nice. And it always seems to find something that some other app has missed.

I'm still P!$$ed they took the Advanced option from the notification tray icon context menu, like they had in 2002. I want more user intervention, not less. When NIS installs, the firewall will let through certain advertisers by default! And the default (less user intervention) settings are a joke. I've made a lot of money re-installing customer's PCs who have Norton, because when the firewall is first installed, it lets nearly everything through! No sense putting a lock on the door to your house if you are going to leave it unlocked.

I can help you with the Ghost bootable CD. However, the drivers is another mess--you'll need to find real-mode drivers for the USB devices. Or you might get lucky and your BIOS might resolve them for when booting from a floppy. To create a Bootable CD, go grab these two apps:EasyBoot. And WinImage. Install them both and read the help, and the FAQ, so you know what is going on. 1. In Ghost, your going to make a Ghost boot disk. 2. Use WinImage to extract that ghost book disk to an image file. WinImage allows you to add/remove files from the floppy image, even making it larger than 1.44 MB. 3.Use Easy Boot to make a bootable CD with the image you took/modified in WinImage. Both tools have trial periods. But they are worth their respective shareware fees. You'll soon get hooked on both. Easyboot allows you to place umpteen boot floppies or CD images on one CD/DVD and create a menu/submenu system to select what you want to boot to. I have one bootable CD with: • A Boot Disk for Hard drive partitioning software • An Emergency Boot Disk (Ghost, AVG, READNTFS, F-Prot, Scandisk, etc) • A Boot Disk for each Hard Drive Manufacturer Utility (Western Digital, Hitachi, etc) I personally tweak the hell out of my Ghost boot disk to CAB up everything not required to boot off the floppy (or the floppy image). I also use a RamDrive (from and old Windows 98 Emergency boot disk).

Yeah, uninstall it and use Windows Messenger instead. I advocate avoiding using all things with MSN or AOL in the name.

Windows Media Player 10

A SATA I devices will work with SATA II. But you will only get SATA I throughput.

But three rights make a left

Thanks Fox.

correct.

It can be an empty file. But you must specify a file. If you structure your command scripts a certain way or routinely use certain code, you can save yourself a lot of work by adding it to your template. Add all of your tips and tricks into your template, and delete what you don't need from the file created from the template on a case-by-case basis. That is what a Template is actually for, but this is not required.

Anyway to get this as a install package that can be pre-installed?

Total Bloatware meets McSoftware I avoid anything MSN and AOL

Here is one of my old DDE files for a Ghost/Emergency Recovery boot disk I still use. They are just text files. ; DIAMOND Directive File (.ddf)for EBD.cab .OPTION EXPLICIT ; Generate errors on variable typos .Set CabinetNameTemplate=EBD.cab .Set Cabinet=on .Set Compress=on ;The files specified below are stored, compressed, in the cabinet file ASPI8DOS.SYS ASPIPPM1.SYS ATTRIB.EXE CHKDSK.EXE DEBUG.EXE DOSKEY.COM EDIT.COM EXT.EXE FDISK.EXE FORMAT.COM GHOST.EXE GUEST.EXE GUEST.INI HELP.BAT MODULE.INI MORE.COM MOUSE.COM MOUSE.INI MSCDEX.EXE NIBBLE.ILM NTFS_MAN.txt README.TXT READNTFS.EXE RESTART.COM SYS.COM XCOPY.EXE ;The files specified below are NOT stored in the cabinet file ;DRVSPACE.BIN ;SCANDISK.EXE ;SCANDISK.INI Also see Microsoft Cabinet Software Development Kit

Your chipset is supported in this versionv6.3.0.1007 12/16/2004 Intel does not update all drives with each new InfUpdate InfUpdate is more like a collection of drivers. Don't worry so much about about the date, just get the latest driver for your board. In fact I just downloaded the file myself and looked inside your driver hasn't been updated since 10/31/2002 Here is the Install link, the link above was to the .zip infinst_enu.exe Ver:6.3.0.1007

No it is not possible to relocate the hibernation file, hiberfil.sys. It must reside on the Primary boot partition (which ever you boot from) so that when the computer comes out of hibernation, it finds hiberfil.sys and restores the PC to the state from which it entered hibernation. And just so you plan your partitioning accordingly, however much RAM you have, that is how big hiberfil.sys will be. Believe me I wish I could relocate it too. Your only option is to disable it from Control Panel > Power Options.

I believe if you encrypt the folder, only a certain user can get to it. You might want to look up File encryption. This is only availble in XP pro I believe. There are som issues if you copy things from encryped folders, so read the help carefully.

To expound on the above, you can mine the registry for any file type, by it's extension. So let's say you want to change the file type name of "Windows NT Command Script" to "NT Command Script". First, look for the file extension in HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.ext. Where .ext equals the file extension that you are looking for. In this case we are looking for.cmd, so we go to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.cmd. Now we look at the default value for this key and see that it is cmdfile. This is the name of another key that we must look up, again inside of HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT. So now go to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\cmdfile. The default value of this key is the File Type Name that appears in Windows Explorer. So edit it from "Windows NT Command" to "NT Command". You most likely will have to reboot for the change to take effect. EDIT 2005-10-03: See this thread to Add New Document Type to The Context Menu EDIT 2005-10-03:

@Yzöwl Good Stuff! @Everyone I answered a question in another thread that relates to creating/programming Windows NT command scripts. Go check it out. (and tell me what I'm missing) I'm prettry sure that works (it's been so long since I did it though). How to Add New Windows NT Command Script to File - New Menu

This is not for the faint at heart. Editing the registry is involved. I will show you how to do one for .cmd files (which is what you should use in Windows 2000/XP). Create a file Template.cmd. Here's mine below, it has some neat things people might like: :Start @Echo Off Setlocal enableextensions CLS Echo. :SetVars Set Beep= Set Bullet=ú :Logic :: Place your command batch script logic between :Logic and :End Call :Tips Pause Goto :EOF :End Endlocal Goto :EOF :: Only place called functions below this comment. Do NOT place an Exit :: command anywhere in this script, if you plan to call it from other :: batch scripts, doing so will exit the parent script as well! :Tips :: Text Border Codes :: :: Copy an paste the special characters below to border enhance your :: onscreen messages. :: :: Top Left Corner Double É :: Horizontal Double Í :: Top Right Corner Double » :: Verticle Double º :: Bottom Left Corner Double È :: Bottom Right Corner Double ¼ :: Beep :: :: NOTE: The beep character doesn't actually take up a character space :: on the screen like the other special characters. Use it only :: at the end of a line of text to ensure proper alignment. :: :: The example below displays double bordered text while beeping twice :: (first beep is with the top border, second is with the bottom border). Echo. ÉÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ» Echo. º Your Text Would Go Here º Echo. ÈÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍͼ Echo. Goto :EOF Save this file in a safe location you can always get to. Most templates go in C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Templates. However, this might be risky on a machine that kids or non technical people have access to. Having a .cmd file on the New menu presents risks, so I advise sticking it in your own user profile. Now you need to tweak the registry. Create a .reg file like so: Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00 [HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.cmd\ShellNew] "FileName"="X:\\Folder\\Subfolder\\TemplateFile.cmd" Where you have corrected the drive, the path, and the template file name to what you are using. But keep the double backslashes between your folders. Import the registry file into your registry. You need to reboot for it to take effect. That is all there is to it. You can only have one template for each file type. This works for any file type, just change .cmd before \ShellNew to the extension of your file. Always make sure the template files will always be reliably located; otherwise, you might cause stability issues.

What you need is a measure of "Realized Speed" (or some other name). Go to a sight like AnandTech.com, or some other such site that does intense product reviews. They put products through rigorous benchmarking tests in various conditions. What you do with the drive will affect "realized speed" if you copy large video files, then certain factors will increase "realized speed" while others detract from it. If you are writing many smaller files, the "realized speed" will be different with the same factors. RPM is only one factor in "realized speed"; Many other factors go into it. Seek Time is generally one of the most limiting agents in the equation of "realized speed". This is the time it takes the head to move laterally over the platter (the needle on the record so-to-speak), to locate the next file you are trying to read or write. LOWER is better on this number. Then there is the interface speed. ATA 33/66/100/133/SATA/SATAII, which I just listed from slowest to fastest. You must also make sure you match this drive rating to what your motherboard will support. The amount of cache also plays a role. More is better. However, I personally advocate disabling write caching, if you don't have your PC on an uninterruptible power supply. If you lose power before the cache is written to the drive, then you run a huge risk of corrupting the files you were writing and possibly even the drive. Read caching should also be enabled, there is no such risk when reading files. If you do have an UPS, keep them both on. Some drives have a silent operation mode, which comes at the expense of performance. Some drives have a power saving mode, which also comes at the expense of performance. You want to acquaint yourself with all of these terms and get a handle on the utilities that comes with the drive, or at the manufacturer's website. ATA drives will eventually become obsolete. So if your current motherboard supports SATA, consider purchasing SATA. Smaller cables, higher interface speeds, current state-of-the art technology, not much difference in price. SATA II is the current leading edge. And is backward compatible with SATA I interface. Your partitioning will affect performance as well. If you use Nero, there is a tool in the suite to check for the fastest partition. My testing shows that the tracks that are about 1/3 - 2/3 of the way inside the platter are the fastest. So I place my swap file and burning cache partitions in that region. The outer 1/3 is the next fastest, and the innermost third is the slowest. I put things like data backup files and install files in the inner tracks. Things I do not right to or read from often. For optimum performance nothing beats a RAID 0 array. Two or more hard drives working in tandem writing information. But this is more expensive and has its own issues. As to capacity, I think you should also measure cost/megabyte of storage. Buying a 40GB drive for $45.00 is cheap but buying a 160GB for $100.00 is cheaper. It's kind of like buying a house--you'll grow into it eventually.