jaclaz

Why double posting? http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=144127 jaclaz

...unless johnmar was EXTREMELY fast in soldering: and very, very, VERY fast in de-soldering: The usual method is a pair of tweezers. Bent tip ones are handy for this: jaclaz

Yep it's BIOS related. Also, some motherboards have a hot-key to change booting order on-the-fly at boot time that behaves sometimes differently/strangely from what happens if you change the booting order inside "real" BIOS page. Most probably you can work around the issue by using grub4dos to re-map drives before booting the OS. Typically: title boot from internal HD map (hd0) (hd1) map (hd1) (hd0) map --hook root (hd0,0) chainloader +1 You will need to check in grub4dos command line if it sees the internal hard disks (it should). To start playing with it start here: http://diddy.boot-land.net/grub4dos/Grub4dos.htm You may also want to try using methods #1 or #3 (chainloadeing from windows) http://diddy.boot-land.net/grub4dos/files/install_windows.htm http://diddy.boot-land.net/grub4dos/files/install_windows.htm#windows1 http://diddy.boot-land.net/grub4dos/files/install_windows.htm#windows3 Read about command line: http://diddy.boot-land.net/grub4dos/files/basics.htm http://diddy.boot-land.net/grub4dos/files/cli.htm Then press "c" and type: find [TAB] If you see something like: it means that the internal drives are seen nonetheless at BIOS level and you can re-map them. Happy to know that also cfadisk.sys worked. jaclaz

You can install the right driver post install allright. Go to the BIOS, set the drive in IDE mode. Read the post you found: http://forums.pcper.com/showthread.php?t=444831 http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=120444&st=589 Install the driver as detailed there. WHAT is the problem? Getting the data to write the small .reg file? jaclaz

Again, what the heck! . This: searches ONLY for "CD-ROM" string. If you just open a command prompt and type in it: [ENTER] you should get an idea of what the output is (it depends on the language of your OS). Most probably this would work: @ECHO OFF FOR /F "tokens=1,2 delims=\" %%A IN ('MOUNTVOL^|FINDSTR [C-Z]:\\') DO ( FOR /F "tokens=1,* delims=-" %%B IN ('fsutil fsinfo drivetype %%A^|FIND /I /V "mov"') do ( ECHO Checking drive %%B ... IF EXIST "%%B\OEM\RunOnce\Auto Setup.bat" ( CALL "%%B\OEM\RunOnce\Auto Setup.bat" GOTO :EOF ) ELSE ( ECHO %%B\OEM\RunOnce\Auto Setup.bat NOT FOUND ) ) ) ECHO \OEM\RunOnce\Auto Setup.bat NOT FOUND on ANY checked drive. PAUSE jaclaz

Chilli, yes, I perfectly know, but since most people WILL NOT use a good converter, nor a good power supply, they will see garbage on the screen and come here whining about it. If the devices are grounded there are NO chances it will happen. See if you agree at least with the Q&A form : From experience, I can tell you that if you tell people that something is: VITAL, ABSOLUTELY NEEDED and IMPERATIVE, most (but not all) will follow the advice and have no errors. IMPORTANT, a few will follow the advice and have no errors. PREFERRED or RECOMMENDED, they will largely do ANOTHER thing, and most of them will have errors. jaclaz jaclaz

Oww, come on , these are snippets, it is expected that you know basic BATCH syntax to make use of these, this is OK :SUB (SET CDROM=%1) IF EXIST "%CDROM%%MYBAT%" CALL "%CDROM%%MYBAT%" if it's at the End Of File, that works as a "Return" command for the SUBroutine. If the above three lines are not the last three in the file, change as: Then the batch code goes: jaclaz

The UNformatted text, yes. The formatted one, maybe, and with "special" programs. A simple text extractor, like bintext: http://www.s2services.com/text-extractors.htm should do. This is worth a try as well (though .Net ): http://www.s2services.com/misc.-corrupt-word.htm jaclaz

BOTH the ones I posted do EXACTLY that. jaclaz

Yep. On another board, in another time, I was the Finder . @Kmuland If you weren't able to follow my explicit link to fdv's page on the linked to thread, you might have missed the one by Ambassador that pointed to: http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=135865 where BogdanV made some more progresses. However, if I may, it's the goal that you have that is: very difficult mostly pointless There are a number of fully working alternate shells and fast file-managers that work allroght in XP/2003 if you want it more responsive/faster. I mean, with all the hacking and tweaking in the world, it is UNprobable you will get a reliable 2K shell under 2K3, if it's fo r fun and to experiment a bit, it's allright, but definitely not for a "production" system. jaclaz

JFYI, you should search on "dedicated" sites. Hint: http://www.robvanderwoude.com http://www.robvanderwoude.com/search.php You may be able to find : http://www.robvanderwoude.com/clevertricks.php http://www.robvanderwoude.com/clevertricks.php#PUSHD_UNC jaclaz

The problem with batch is that the file contains redirection symbols <> and % signs, and also quotes ": this may prove to be a very hard problem to get around. Mind you, it may be possible to do it in pure batch, but definetly NOT worth the effort. To get an idea of the complexity involved, check this: http://www.robvanderwoude.com/xtreme.php http://www.robvanderwoude.com/files/cvturlnt_nt.txt The use of an external program is far better/easier/foolproof, besides sed, I am personally fond of gsar: http://home.online.no/~tjaberg/ jaclaz

There are almost NO reasons (on a single user PC) to use NTFS if not the volume size that is limited in FAT16 to 2 GB (Ok, 4 Gb, but DO NOT use 4Gb FAT16 volumes!). Sure NTFS is faster on BIG volumes, and has better recoverability, but you don't actually *need* it's features. You have to understand that NT 4.00 was a "TOP" OS when "normal" hard disks size were around 500 Mb÷1 Gb, and a 2.1 Gb one was considered a *huge* disk, let alone a 4.3 Gb one. I have been working (and I mean working, not "playing") on systems with a 2.1 Gb HD, partitioned in such a way that I could backup with three CD's (plus some little "spare" space). A "standard" NT4.00 install is around 150 Mb, if I recall correctly, I had an "emergency" NT (simply with a number or unused system files and all help files removed) around 50 Mb on a ZIP disk (which also contained some importeant data). The "right" size for a NT4.0 partition is below 1 Gb. (assuming that you have a separate partition for the DATA). As areference, a typical setup I used in years like 98/99 (before 2K came out) was: C: Primary Active partition, FAT16, 1Gb <-DOS 6.22 + Emergency NT (a copy of the 50 Mbish described before) EXTENDED PARTITION containing: D: Logical Volume Windows 95/98, FAT32, 1 Gb (yes, it is possible to install Win9x on a Logical Volume) E: Logical Volume NT 4.00, NTFS, 2 Gb F: Logical Volume 9xDATA, FAT32, 2 Gb G: Logical Volume NTDATA, NTFS, 2 Gb H: Logical Voume DATA, FAT16, 1 Gb I: Logical Voume DATA, FAT16, 1 Gb L: Logical Voume DATA, FAT16, 1 Gb And yes, the disk was around 10 Gb, and I had 2 Gb sized backup solution. jaclaz

Well, what you report seems more like I remembered it. If I were you, I would leave everything "as is", and wait to do further tests when you happen to get another stick that doesn't work as you want it to. About the "hard way", the link I posted is a direct link to page where actual "Manufacturer Tool" that are (or better should be) appropriate for your stick. You download one, and you try running it (WITHOUT the stick connected). You try and see if there is an option (they do have an english interface) that *resembles* what you want to do. IF there is (not *ALL* controllers or not *ALL* utilities have this feature) you try it. Now you do understand why the , don't you? Some utilities are "easy", some are "difficult", it is more a gambling game than anything else. So, DO NOT do it. If you are curious, just download them and try running them with NO devices attached, to see how they "feel". You are now a happy bunny in the basket , don't make things that may make you become a depressed one . http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128727&st=10 jaclaz

Check how fdv tested the NT4 shell (which is even faster) on 2K, possibly a method that is similar may work. http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=138242 jaclaz

Another happy bunny in the basket. http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128727&st=10 jaclaz

Yes, please (this way we have a final confirmation for cfadisk.sys also). Yep, that's the "old" way (and prone to errors/inconveniences, as you "attach" the filter to a specific hardware device). The new "generic" way by cdob simplified and examplified in the referred to thread by online: http://www.911cd.net/forums//index.php?showtopic=22795 should be (please read as "is") more tolerant, as you "attach" the filter driver to the whole "USBSTOR\GenDisk" it should/will work for ANY USB stick, see the original post: http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=126868&st=12 No, sorry for the misunderstanding, the Vid and Pid you had already posted was enough to find the (supposedly) "right" tool for it. That was referred to eventually risk using on your stick the linked to Manufacturer's Tool to "flip the bit" of the controller. As said, this - if possible with that tool - is the most "definitive" way, but it implies some risks of "botching" the stick for good. Thus I can "recommend" it as the "right" thing to do (in the sense that you won't have anymore ANY problem with Fixed vs. Removable under ANY OS/install, without needing EVER to reinstall the filter driver), but cannot actually "recommend" doing it , as it involves the said risk, and don't want to be "held responsible" for accidentally ruining someone else's stick permanently. I personally "flip the bit" of all my sticks, but never used that particular Manufacturer Tool, so, I cannot even say if it allows doing it, let alone know if it's "friendly", "easy" or not, it's all up to you. More generally, my personal approach is somewhere between : and: it's your choice, you only know if you have the experience, knowledge, and ultimately "guts" to risk doing a firmware change, after having judged if you need it at all or if you are happy with the filter driver. jaclaz

I may add that should anyone want to know what problems (and "features") the "HP Format Tool" has, and the problems about CHS and LBA balancing, the info is available (besides the problems with bootsectors code of NTFS and FAT32 invoking NTLDR, already discussed), read here: http://www.boot-land.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=2246&st=15 http://www.911cd.net/forums//index.php?showtopic=21702&hl= http://www.911cd.net/forums//index.php?showtopic=21049&st=14 To this you add that some motherboards apparently need a fake second partition: http://www.boot-land.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=7512&hl= And you will have an idea of how "crazy" is this whole "USB booting" staff. jaclaz

Excellent. Another nice way to introduce a possibly risky variation for NO apparent reason whatsoever. Out of curiosity, WHICH cardstock will you pull out FIRST? Or are you planning to build a robotic arm to pull BOTH at the same time? jaclaz

Look, I have spent a reasonable amount of time to try and write a (hopefully) easy to follow READ-ME-FIRST, EXACTLY to AVOID having to reply yet another time to SAME questions. http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=143880 WHAT is the difficult part in it? However, let's see if I can put it in a quick Q&A form: Q1: Will it work if I DO NOT connect the GROUND? A1: Who knows? Maybe yes, maybe not, there are so many factors involved, including if using a RS-232 or USB converter, a battery or the PC PSU to power the converter, a laptop or a desktop and the actual Power supply used to power the HD, that there is NO way to know in advance. We have so many posts of people whining about being unable to connect or seeing only gartbage on the screen WITHOUT proper GROUNDING that we have lost count of 'em, so I would say that on average NO, it won't work. Q2: Will it work if I connect properly ALL involved equipment to GROUND? A2: YES. Make your choice... ...but choose wisely... http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0097576/quotes I'll try again: Does Carter appear to have been using the known exception? Or a Pololu converter that can be powered by ANYTHING in the 3V up to 5.5V range? http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/126 Evidently giving on the TX line ANYWAY the "right" TTL level if powered at +5V? jaclaz

I take this for a final confirmation that Anton Bassov's dummydisk.sys with the approach that online so nicely detailed: http://www.911cd.net/forums//index.php?showtopic=22795 works allright under Windows 7. (Did I get it right? You don't mention which driver you finally installed. ) However, if dummydisk.sys works, also cfadisk.sys should work with the generic method by cdob, if you hava an occasion to try again it, please report. Yes, most probably you did not manage to intall them correctly or fully. Writing .INF files is tricky business, you have probably missed some bit. Well, that's enough: it seems like a kingston using a SSS chip: http://www.flashboot.ru/index.php?name=Files&op=cat&id=17 http://translate.google.it/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flashboot.ru%2Findex.php%3Fname%3DFiles%26op%3Dcat%26id%3D17&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=&ie=UTF-8 most probably a SSS6690 (just in case yu want to take the HARD way) You are welcome. jaclaz

YEP , but one that owns a partition magic or acronis disk director license doesn't apply anymore for "poorman" This may help : http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~jeacocke/fat16to.htm http://support.microsoft.com/kb/273896/en-us http://www.mdgx.com/secrets.htm#FDPT http://www.unusualresearch.com/cvtfat32/cvtfat32.htm ftp://ftp.sac.sk/pub/sac/utildisk/cvt16-32.zip but you may need to rewrite the bootsector invoking NTLDR In this specific case, since at a given time the working OS has to be copied to the "target" partition, that if I get it right is not to be touched/re-formatted, the poorman's way has to be used anyway. jaclaz

The converter doesn't "out" ANYTHING on the Vcc (Vcc is the power input of the converter) It's signal levels (TX) are in the LOWER TTL range if powered at around 3V, which is the one documented to work. (again read READ-ME-FIRST), point # 11) in this case. Read this also: http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128807&st=2330 http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128807&st=2332 jaclaz

That's exactly the problem. Basically you are trying to do something that is: UNdocumented UNintended by the people that wrote the OS and install routine UNintended by the good guy that wrote the FAT32 driver and that has NEVER been reported as doable (AFAIK) Sure, you can try, it may work or fail to, we don't know. BUT the actual setup is done by SETUPLDR.BIN, I won't offend your intelligence giving info about this file. No, that is one out of the several hard parts. Mind you, I am not trying to put you down, simply you are a self-declared non-expert tryng to do something very, very complex, and at first sight missing the very basics: learnign to wak before start running. On the other hand : Since you came here to get help/advice, you should be ready to get some: The *IMPOSSIBLE* way: ATTEMPT to install DIRECTLY to a FAT32 partition Find, all together, ANY number of problems Isolate one of them, find a solution for it and loop to #1) until you solved ALL of them The *DIFFICULT* way: FORGET (temporarily) to install DIRECTLY to a FAT32 partition Install to a FAT16 one Re-install with the integrated drivers on FAT16 Re-install with the integrated drivers AND with the exchanged NTLDR and SETUPLDR.BIN (which will probably "carry with them" NTDETECT.COM) on FAT16 IF everything works as expected, try installing on the FAT32 The *EASY* way: FORGET (temporarily) to install DIRECTLY to a FAT32 partition Install to a FAT16 one Add the drivers, test they work to access another FAT32 partition Add the exchanged NTLDR(which will probably "carry with it" NTDETECT.COM) on FAT16 DO a poorman's backup Re-format the FAT16 partition as FAT32 DO a poorman's restore IF everything works re-do steps 5) and 7) restoring to the "final" FAT32 partition A poorman's backup is hinted about here: http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=118623&st=48 The good thing about NT4 is that it's not picky at all about drive letters and System volumes (unlike 2K and XP) but still you need some knowledge on how to manage the drive/partition moves. jaclaz

It seems to me quite clear, if you re-read what you quoted: The original info's were about completely detaching the PCB (thus insulating BOTH contacts). Re-assembling the PCB whilst powered on is tricky and risky, as it is possible that the motors don't get enough current (for the lack of ground connection) and some components on the board will overheat. Using a cardstock (and quickly and fully tighten the screws) is much easier and avoids possible mis-placement of the board or wrong contacts (that may blow the PCB). So, you have to choose WHICH contacs to put the cardboard between. And the answer, is, as it seems to me clearly written in the quote: try with the HEADs contacts. If it doesn't work on your drive, try with the MOTOR ones. We don't have a database of which contacts for which model are better, but you do not risk anything by using trial and error, in most cases #1 will work, in some it won't and you'll have to use method #2. jaclaz