jaclaz

Wrong place to ask , it should be here: http://www.msfn.org/board/forum/157-install-windows-from-usb/ WHICH particular (among the ones listed there) solution did you use? Or you attempted a "plain install from USB" ? You don't need this modified SETUPLDR.BIN for XP. In ANY case, start a NEW thread there: http://www.msfn.org/board/forum/157-install-windows-from-usb/ jaclaz

The July 11 1995, 9:50 AM should mean Windows 95 A. With reference to one of the liinks I posted, most files seems like sporting this date, exceptions: AUTOEXEC.BAT 45 MS-DOS Batch File 05/26/1999 04:45:20 PM CD1.SYS 34,262 System file 09/26/1996 05:13:04 PM CD2.SYS 16,504 System file 11/21/1996 01:54:00 AM CD3.SYS 19,984 System file 08/13/1996 01:03:02 AM CD4.SYS 41,302 System file 05/11/1998 08:01:00 PM CONFIG.SYS 377 System file 05/29/1999 12:20:38 PM EXTRACT.EXE 46,656 Application 10/01/1997 04:00:30 PM MSDOS.SYS 6 System file 10/02/1997 01:53:10 AM SCANDISK.EXE 134,738 Application 10/01/1997 04:00:30 PM The CD*.sys files are (updated) drivers (it is a good thing)- The autoexec.bat, config.sys and msdos.sys are "configuration files" it is quite normal that they have been modified. The EXTRACT.EXE and SCANDISK.EXE are updated versions (it's a good thing). WHAT is the problem? Cannot say what you are driving at ,however I can see where you come from : http://www.betaarchive.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=16000&sid=215b82d6e135b2d20300c49290dfda22&start=50 jaclaz

How do you know that? Are you sure those timestamps are not counterfeited? jaclaz

That's good , since I am NOT AT ALL convinced I know what your commuting needs are. jaclaz

@vishnupvardhan What you report is strange, after the 0x08M you should have plenty more info, something like: Maybe you have a loose connection or a not fully working TTL board? @Erurer Yes, this is normal, you need a LOOP (the paperclip) to make a LOOPback. If nothing is connected to Tx what you type is dispersed in thin air.... If nothing is connected to Rx you cannot Receive anything (maybe messages from aliens) It is still possible that you cannot make proper contact on the HD side, and as well it is possible that the TTL thingy is "picky" about voltage, and actually needs 3.3V (a battery like you are using can give maybe 3.1V if FULLY working and NEW, but can easily go down to 2.8 or 2.9 V, that may not be anough to drive the converter or produce adequate TTL levels). jaclaz

Would these be countefeited ? http://www.allbootdisks.com/95.html http://www.allbootdisks.com/disk_contents/95.html http://www.allbootdisks.com/download/95.html jaclaz

If you are looking for cars and your needs are for commuting from home to the train station daily (a 8 km one-way trip) and back and you never heard of traction control and you live in, say Southern Texas, AND you are looking for a BMW you have chosen the wrong car manufacturer even before knowing about it's spiffy traction control..... , but anyway you should wait for the next snowfall, then ask the car dealer for a test drive..... (which essentially is what MagicAndre1981 advised you about ) jaclaz

Just for the record, in some cases a "hybrid" can be made, reference: http://www.rodsbooks.com/gdisk/ http://www.rodsbooks.com/gdisk/hybrid.html jaclaz

Yes AND you should ALSO connect the GND of the adapter to the ground of the HD. If you prefer, you need to solder a RED wire going from the VCC to the + on the battery and TWO BLACK wires to the GND, then connect one of the two BLACK wires to the - on the battery and the other one to the GND of the HD. Please re-READ the READ-ME-FIRST , particularly point #7 Then BEFORE anything else detach the wires from the HD and DO A LOOPBACK TEST, again READ-ME-FIRST; this time point #8. jaclaz

This particular file has disappeared from the Homepage: http://www.f2ko.de/ (the site has been reworked and maybe it is a case of MIA during restoration) I am attaching it (together with the small batch that I made at the time for the particular xml DriveImageXML creates and the base64 decoder) You won't need these, but the batch may give you some ideas, the xmlparser writes to file "results.tmp", you can run it then open results.tmp with notepad. jaclaz DixmlreadD.zip

Sure, life is tough . Though what would you expect from experimental things you can have for free? As soon as vboot will work, it will become a Commercial program, anyway. wimb's approach does work and is surprisingly stable - at least for me and using XP. jaclaz

See if this fits: http://www.911cd.net/forums//index.php?showtopic=23408&st=21 http://www.911cd.net/forums//index.php?showtopic=24300&st=47 If you cannot get the xmlparser.exe just post and I will attach a copy here. jaclaz

Just for the record, booting from a VHD (or from a dd like image) is also possible with third party tools. Some freeware some shareware/commercial. And it is possible for XP too. http://reboot.pro/9830/ http://reboot.pro/13438/ jaclaz

I wish I could have the younger eyes..... For NO apparent reason : http://icanhascheezburger.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/7058a6bc-f4ef-4425-ac9a-723abd088a0f.jpg jaclaz

Unfortunately the combined effect of: notebook 10" screen age lack of proper spectacles handy made me overlook the tiny (3.3) and (5) on the PCB, but anyway it would NOT have been enough to convince me. Yes, I have seen them. And as said before they are NOT marked 3.3V and 5V but rather (3.3) and (5), it's a good hint, but not enough. More thatn that. what I was saying - and I actually wrote it - is that probably (please read as surely) the SAME PCB is used to build BOTH the "4502" (5V only) AND the "4505" (dual TTL level). You are right that the adapter in the photo is the "right" one , but you derived a right conclusion from the wrong observation (of course IMHO ). In other words: jaclaz

Sure , since you fail to write it. (and you must have a d@mn bigger screen I have right now, but the fact that near an empty pad on a PCB you can read 3.3 AND 5 doesn't mean anything IMHO) After a closer look, you are right , but for the wrong reasons , the actual 4205 with the 05 written with a pen should mean: that it is the right adapter (you are right) that the PCB of the 3.3V and of the 5V are the same (you are right by pure chance, as you mentioned a completely wrong reason for it) jaclaz

The "right" one: http://www.tronisoft.com/prod.php?id=4205 does 3.3V and 5V, you know, like: the "wrong" one: http://www.tronisoft.com/prod.php?id=4202 ONLY 5 V, you know, like: Sometimes I have the feeling that noone actually READs what I write, just like it happens with the "read-me-first". jaclaz

You want to solder a pin (or directly a wire) to: Tx (out) Rx (In) GND (-) VCC (+) DO NOT EVEN THINK of soldering on the hard disk side! Read here: WHERE did you get that adapter from? It should have come with instructions about the use (if any) of the jumper, as well as the actual Voltage needed to power it up, and the actual TTL level it is compatible with. I can read "TRONIX" on it. If you are going to use an USB port, why did you go through the extra long path of USB->RS232->TTL? This would have been simpler: http://www.tronisoft.com/prod.php?id=2468 and IT IS a 3.3 V TTL level cable. If the one you get is this one: http://www.tronisoft.com/prod.php?id=4205 it's ok. If it's this one: http://www.tronisoft.com/prod.php?id=4202 it won't work for the Seagate drive. Anyway the above page should contain links to the respective user manuals (or contact TRONIX to have them). jaclaz

Just to highlight how the idea that for using grub4dos is in any way "much more work necessary" is not actually true (for the very simple chore of hiding one or more paritions) here is a sample menu.lst that covers an hypothetical system with a single disk with three primary partitions on it, each with an operating system that is supposed to NOT see the other two partitions: title First partition hide (hd0,1) hide (hd0,2) unhide (hd0,0) root (hd0,0) chainloader +1 title Second partition hide (hd0,0) hide (hd0,2) unhide (hd0,1) root (hd0,1) chainloader +1 title Third partition hide (hd0,0) hide (hd0,1) unhide (hd0,2) root (hd0,2) chainloader +1 Last command: chainloader +1 can be replaced by chainloader /bootmgr in the case of a Vista or Windows 7 And, though I personally recommend to always establish root, it is not strictly *needed* (at least not for a NT based system) , so the two commands: can be replaced by either: or: Maybe it's because I do know a bit about grub4dos syntax, but it does seem to me like rather intuitive. jaclaz

A DE13 version is available on Dell's Site: http://search.dell.com/results.aspx?s=gen&c=us&l=en&cs=&k=DE13&cat=sup&x=0&y=0 jaclaz

There is a very good English word for it, word that we are not allowed to write on the forum but that is related to what comes out of a crack in the back of a male large mammal sporting huge horns. Tell your friend that the real problem is if the partition ends at cylinder 666 , but that's about 5 Gb..... jaclaz

Let's hope you didn't fry the board by connecting a RS-232 "straight" (a RS-232 can have output at more than 4 times the TTL 3.3v level). Pay GREAT attention! READ the read-me-first: It recommends to use THIS guide: http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html READ IT (again and again). You may find a bit like: jaclaz

We can remove the guesses, BTW all or most of them plainly wrong from the equation. Several months ago I contacted the nice guy that runs multibooters.co.uk and pointed him to grub4dos which is NOT GRUB (legacy) and is NOT GRUB 2. but he had no time to test himself the grub4dos . (and AGAIN what I pointed you to is grub4dos AND NOT GRUB) US$ 0 (as in zero, nil) seems to me a better deal, but of course if you like uneedingly spending 40 bucks for the Terabyte thingy (which BTW I can confirm it is a very good bootmanager ) it's your choice. JFYI: http://www.winimage.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3231 jaclaz

Sure , and you have a wise approach with the separation of data from OS. Problem might be the use of a "main" C: partition hosting your "main" OS. You cannot "hide" it unless you install grub4dos to the MBR. (actually I am lying, there may be ways, but they are rather advanced, but more than that prone to errors as they need "looping") A much better way would be that of having a slightly different setup. Ideally you should have (on first disk) a very small partition dedicated to just the bootmgr and the \boo\BCD (optionally plus the grub4dos files), i.e. recreate the situation of a "standard on pristine disk" Windows 7 install (the INfamous 100 Mb "hidden" partition). This would allow to leave the MBR code the "standard" Windows 7 one. And yes, you need some time to get the basics of grub4dos, and (if you don't already have them) some knowledge of the "standard" way Windows 7 boots. Find it here (just imagine to read Windows 7 instead of Vista ): http://www.multibooters.co.uk/ Particularly: http://www.multibooters.co.uk/system.html http://www.multibooters.co.uk/articles/windows_seven.html Take some time on the grub4dos guide and on the above pages, and when you feel like ready, post again, and I'll try to fill the gaps (if any). jaclaz

Yes. READ the first post on this thread. Get the tool. READ the docs, then just try it. There are suitable tools included to do the partitioning and formatting and writing of MBR, etc., if we are talking of a USB stick. The adviced tool is RMPREPUSB: http://reboot.pro/7739/ (already included) On steve6375's site there are tutorials to do the same (and more) manually, should you need some feature not available in the tool: http://sites.google.com/site/rmprepusb/ jaclaz