jaclaz

No, it is actually RECOMMENDED to do the power cycle wayting at least sixty seconds BEFORE going to F3 T> level. It is NOT RECOMMENDED to power down the drive AFTER the F3 T>m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 (enter) BEFORE *enough* time is elapsed (i.e. while the command is still executing). This *enough* time can be measured in (from reports, most of which completely void of *any* actual realiability ) *anything* between 10 seconds and 1 or more hours. More supposedly reliable reports give a max at around 10 minutes, so, after 15 minutes it's OK to power down the drive and re-do from where you should have powered it down initially. jaclaz

Define "fresh". jaclaz

Yep. Remember GROUNDING (point #7 of read-me-first). Let's hope that only the low battery voltage is the problem in your case. jaclaz

Have you already submittted it here? http://www.hijackthis.de/ Make SURE you UNcheck the checkbox for "Show the visitors ratings", as those rating are more often than not compromising the otherwise good detection capabilities of the analisys. Mind you that whatever gets a red cross or a question mark, not necessarily is a problem, only something you should further investigate upon. And no , everything is NOT ok, it seems like you have at least quite a few missing files. jaclaz

Well, use *anything* else that provides around 3.3 V cc, then. Last time I checked a PC PSU, for the record, it did have a connector going to the motherboard, as in the given picture: http://jwenet.net/notebook/2005/1161.html (and not to a "sealed SATA" thingy) and I could easily insert a wire with first centimeter or so of the insulation stripped off with the connector actually connected to the motherboard. If you have a spare PC PSU, you can use the "bent paperclip" trick (or a short piece of wire) to turn it on: http://www.dansdata.com/danletters020.htm Or maybe you can get your hands on a ATX Y splitter? Example (NOT cheap): http://www.atxpowersupplies.com/atx-20-pin-y-splitter.php jaclaz

The issue is NOT about "ignorance", it is about "refusing to listen" or "refusing to read and learn". BEFORE asking for help, you bought an RS232 to TTL adapter to be coupled to a USB to RS232 one. ( which is NOT the "best" choice). Then you started asking help about it (and EACH and EVERY time you were pointed to where that SAME question was ALREADY answered and easily accessible). This is Ok and fine for first question or two of them, as you might have not found the stickies in the Forum, but going on and on? I am used to people that when told (TWICE) to "use 3.3V" or to "use 3.3V orange cable", if they cannot find a way to get 3.3 V, after having read the given resources/answers whatever, specifically: or if they don't understand what is ALREADY written, ask for clarification, WITHOUT proposing they can use Red instead. Here: http://jwenet.net/notebook/2005/1161.html Rest assured that a standard PC PSU does have an orange wire and that it is at 3.3 V cc. To further clear the reason why I am shouting at you, it is because you are hiding behind the "I am no expert in electronics " excuse, which is m00t, if you were an expert an electronics you wouldn't be here, but the tutorials, this thread, the read-me-first and the FGA's seemingly made hundreds, maybe thousands of non-electronic-experts succeed. The questions they made, and the answers they got represent EXPERIENCE that is shared with everyone. Since ALWAYS the SAME questions were made, we attempted to reduce the number of new memebrs re-asking them by giving the ANSWERS to those recurring questions (with the side effect of - having spent lots of time in writing those - to save some in trying to help in this thread). It is only too bad, this plan doesn't work because people simply ignore what is ALREADY written. jaclaz

Can't you READ the read-me-first (again and again)? This would be point #11. Red is 5V! You DO NOT want to power that adapter at 5V. The whole idea of spending time to write that read-me-first was to avoid senseless posts like yours added to the preseent thread! jaclaz

You read the docs? Here: http://driverpacks.net/docs jaclaz

Really? Yes and No. http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/hardware/gg463525.aspx jaclaz

Wrong place to ask , it should be here: http://www.msfn.org/board/forum/157-install-windows-from-usb/ WHICH particular (among the ones listed there) solution did you use? Or you attempted a "plain install from USB" ? You don't need this modified SETUPLDR.BIN for XP. In ANY case, start a NEW thread there: http://www.msfn.org/board/forum/157-install-windows-from-usb/ jaclaz

The July 11 1995, 9:50 AM should mean Windows 95 A. With reference to one of the liinks I posted, most files seems like sporting this date, exceptions: AUTOEXEC.BAT 45 MS-DOS Batch File 05/26/1999 04:45:20 PM CD1.SYS 34,262 System file 09/26/1996 05:13:04 PM CD2.SYS 16,504 System file 11/21/1996 01:54:00 AM CD3.SYS 19,984 System file 08/13/1996 01:03:02 AM CD4.SYS 41,302 System file 05/11/1998 08:01:00 PM CONFIG.SYS 377 System file 05/29/1999 12:20:38 PM EXTRACT.EXE 46,656 Application 10/01/1997 04:00:30 PM MSDOS.SYS 6 System file 10/02/1997 01:53:10 AM SCANDISK.EXE 134,738 Application 10/01/1997 04:00:30 PM The CD*.sys files are (updated) drivers (it is a good thing)- The autoexec.bat, config.sys and msdos.sys are "configuration files" it is quite normal that they have been modified. The EXTRACT.EXE and SCANDISK.EXE are updated versions (it's a good thing). WHAT is the problem? Cannot say what you are driving at ,however I can see where you come from : http://www.betaarchive.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=16000&sid=215b82d6e135b2d20300c49290dfda22&start=50 jaclaz

How do you know that? Are you sure those timestamps are not counterfeited? jaclaz

That's good , since I am NOT AT ALL convinced I know what your commuting needs are. jaclaz

@vishnupvardhan What you report is strange, after the 0x08M you should have plenty more info, something like: Maybe you have a loose connection or a not fully working TTL board? @Erurer Yes, this is normal, you need a LOOP (the paperclip) to make a LOOPback. If nothing is connected to Tx what you type is dispersed in thin air.... If nothing is connected to Rx you cannot Receive anything (maybe messages from aliens) It is still possible that you cannot make proper contact on the HD side, and as well it is possible that the TTL thingy is "picky" about voltage, and actually needs 3.3V (a battery like you are using can give maybe 3.1V if FULLY working and NEW, but can easily go down to 2.8 or 2.9 V, that may not be anough to drive the converter or produce adequate TTL levels). jaclaz

Would these be countefeited ? http://www.allbootdisks.com/95.html http://www.allbootdisks.com/disk_contents/95.html http://www.allbootdisks.com/download/95.html jaclaz

If you are looking for cars and your needs are for commuting from home to the train station daily (a 8 km one-way trip) and back and you never heard of traction control and you live in, say Southern Texas, AND you are looking for a BMW you have chosen the wrong car manufacturer even before knowing about it's spiffy traction control..... , but anyway you should wait for the next snowfall, then ask the car dealer for a test drive..... (which essentially is what MagicAndre1981 advised you about ) jaclaz

Just for the record, in some cases a "hybrid" can be made, reference: http://www.rodsbooks.com/gdisk/ http://www.rodsbooks.com/gdisk/hybrid.html jaclaz

Yes AND you should ALSO connect the GND of the adapter to the ground of the HD. If you prefer, you need to solder a RED wire going from the VCC to the + on the battery and TWO BLACK wires to the GND, then connect one of the two BLACK wires to the - on the battery and the other one to the GND of the HD. Please re-READ the READ-ME-FIRST , particularly point #7 Then BEFORE anything else detach the wires from the HD and DO A LOOPBACK TEST, again READ-ME-FIRST; this time point #8. jaclaz

This particular file has disappeared from the Homepage: http://www.f2ko.de/ (the site has been reworked and maybe it is a case of MIA during restoration) I am attaching it (together with the small batch that I made at the time for the particular xml DriveImageXML creates and the base64 decoder) You won't need these, but the batch may give you some ideas, the xmlparser writes to file "results.tmp", you can run it then open results.tmp with notepad. jaclaz DixmlreadD.zip

Sure, life is tough . Though what would you expect from experimental things you can have for free? As soon as vboot will work, it will become a Commercial program, anyway. wimb's approach does work and is surprisingly stable - at least for me and using XP. jaclaz

See if this fits: http://www.911cd.net/forums//index.php?showtopic=23408&st=21 http://www.911cd.net/forums//index.php?showtopic=24300&st=47 If you cannot get the xmlparser.exe just post and I will attach a copy here. jaclaz

Just for the record, booting from a VHD (or from a dd like image) is also possible with third party tools. Some freeware some shareware/commercial. And it is possible for XP too. http://reboot.pro/9830/ http://reboot.pro/13438/ jaclaz

I wish I could have the younger eyes..... For NO apparent reason : http://icanhascheezburger.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/7058a6bc-f4ef-4425-ac9a-723abd088a0f.jpg jaclaz

Unfortunately the combined effect of: notebook 10" screen age lack of proper spectacles handy made me overlook the tiny (3.3) and (5) on the PCB, but anyway it would NOT have been enough to convince me. Yes, I have seen them. And as said before they are NOT marked 3.3V and 5V but rather (3.3) and (5), it's a good hint, but not enough. More thatn that. what I was saying - and I actually wrote it - is that probably (please read as surely) the SAME PCB is used to build BOTH the "4502" (5V only) AND the "4505" (dual TTL level). You are right that the adapter in the photo is the "right" one , but you derived a right conclusion from the wrong observation (of course IMHO ). In other words: jaclaz

Sure , since you fail to write it. (and you must have a d@mn bigger screen I have right now, but the fact that near an empty pad on a PCB you can read 3.3 AND 5 doesn't mean anything IMHO) After a closer look, you are right , but for the wrong reasons , the actual 4205 with the 05 written with a pen should mean: that it is the right adapter (you are right) that the PCB of the 3.3V and of the 5V are the same (you are right by pure chance, as you mentioned a completely wrong reason for it) jaclaz