Power supply box problems...help?

[LLXX]

The "clicking" sound I mentioned earlier is still there, but it's a lot quieter now, and a lot more rapid, and very high pitched. Not even sure if it's the same sound, but it sounds slightly similar. When I showed my solder-work to a friend, he said he could barely even hear the noise I just described.

All switching-type PSUs emit high-pitched sounds, though most of the time it can't be heard since the fans are usually louder. An electrical humming is also normal. It's clicking since it has no load - the output voltage rises quickly, causing the regulator to cut the power (that's why it's called a *switching* PSU). The output voltage drops and it turns on again, then off, etc. It's actually a bad idea to run a switching PSU without a load for any length of time.

One more question before I narrow my search for a new PSU (I still intend to buy a new one, even if this attempted repair works): Do I need to buy a new one of the same wattage/voltage as my old one? (I assume so, just thought I'd ask. Current one runs at 250W, 120V.) That is, what specs can I upgrade when buying a new PSU, and what specs should be left as they are?

Anything of greater than or equal wattage. 250W units are rare now, I think the minimum for a standard-size PSU is 300W.

[Shindo_Hikaru]

Bare min Pentium - Pentium 4 (423) power suppy is 350, for a middle grade (Pentium 4 - 478) 450, all new systems 500 and up.

[ripken204]

llxx-so your saying it fine? maybe so? all psu's ive ever heard were under some sort of load and yes ive heard that humming alot. btw that psu ilosted above is a pretty nice one, plus theres a rebate for it

[Whulph]

Well, I decided to plug it into my motherboard again, and to power up real quick...no luck, still the same problem as before, the clicking, rapidly blinking LED power light, etc. Somthing else is damaged. Oh well, I gave it my best shot.

I finally began the real hunt for a new PSU, but there are so many specifications and choices it's hard to narrow down the search. So far, it appears the Thermaltake one 03GrandAmGT suggested has most of what I want, and for a decent price.

I just have a few more questions so the search might be narrowed a bit further:

Will ATX12V fit in an ATX based computer? What's the difference between "regular" ATX and ATX12V, besides the 24 pin connector and various power-levels? Anything significant enough to note, or that might cause a problem if I were to get an ATX12V PSU instead of an ATX PSU?

Is "Overload Protection" the same thing as "Over Voltage Protection"? And is Overload Protection really needed if you have a surge protector? (I have surge protectors for the computers, printers, scanners, game consoles...everywhere except the TV. That's why it was fried...I was too lazy to buy a new one and dig through all the wires there. I won't make that mistake again. )

What exactly is Active PFC, and how does it help?

From what I understand, SLI is helpful for "linking" graphics cards. That is, if you have two graphics cards, their memory/power can be combined (when needed) to share the load of performing a single task. Do I understand that right? How else is SLI a benefit? Is SLI a benefit to one who only has one graphics card?

I don't have a "real" graphics card, (yet) just a basic integrated one. (64 Megs, if I remember correctly.) I'm planning on buying a 256 Meg PCI graphics card in the near future. Would it be possible to use SLI with a PCI/integrated graphics card setup, or is SLI used only for a PCI/PCI graphics card type of setup?

And finally, are there any other recommendations, features, or other things I should look for in getting a good PSU?

Thanks again everyone for the excellent help! Hope I'm not being a pain with all the questions...

PS: Here's the page I'm viewing at the moment: ATX/ATX12V, Overload Protection, Active PFC, 250-500W, 20+4/24 Pins, $20-80

[ripken204]

so much stuff, lol. the enermax liberty is a great psu.

[LLXX]

Well, I decided to plug it into my motherboard again, and to power up real quick...no luck, still the same problem as before, the clicking, rapidly blinking LED power light, etc. Somthing else is damaged. Oh well, I gave it my best shot.

Make sure it's the PSU... if the mobo is shorting out a new PSU is just going to exhibit the same behavior.

Will ATX12V fit in an ATX based computer? What's the difference between "regular" ATX and ATX12V, besides the 24 pin connector and various power-levels? Anything significant enough to note, or that might cause a problem if I were to get an ATX12V PSU instead of an ATX PSU?

Look at the connector on your mobo, and choose the PSU that matches the connector. It's probably a normal ATX.

Is "Overload Protection" the same thing as "Over Voltage Protection"? And is Overload Protection really needed if you have a surge protector?

Overload protection refers to shutting down when current draw exceeds specs, while overvoltage prot. refers to excess input voltage. Practically all PSUs now have these features.

What exactly is Active PFC, and how does it help?

I won't even try to explain this, but it's usually not needed unless required by law in some areas. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor_correction for more information.

From what I understand, SLI is helpful for "linking" graphics cards. That is, if you have two graphics cards, their memory/power can be combined (when needed) to share the load of performing a single task. Do I understand that right? How else is SLI a benefit? Is SLI a benefit to one who only has one graphics card?

SLI uses a pair of graphics cards and is mainly for high-end gaming.

[Shindo_Hikaru]

ATX12V is an addition 12V connector that supplies power for Intel CPU's, and their are 24 pin and 20 pin connectors that is for Mobo, a 24 pin can be used in older 20 pin.

SLI is short for Scalable Link Interface. SLI is proprietary to Nvidia graphics cards and is a method of allowing two graphics cards of the same model to be linked and share the load of rendering the graphics on screen. Using two graphics cards linked via SLI greatly improves the performance of the system by rendering the graphics faster. Often up to a 2 times improvement is seen.

Crossfire

A technology from ATI graphics, allowing 2 PCIE graphics cards in the same computer system to be linked. The 2 cards are linked externaly by a DVI like connector. The cards then work together to render the image.

Both technologies do the same thing in different ways to make your gaming or movie experience better.

[Whulph]

ripken204: Lol, Enermax Liberty looks awesome, but that price tag is a little to steep for me at the moment. Can't spend that much when the TV still needs to be fixed, and what with my already saving up for a decent graphics card...

LLXX:

Make sure it's the PSU... if the mobo is shorting out a new PSU is just going to exhibit the same behavior.

I'm almost positive the power supply is causing the problem. After all, there was the issue with the popped-out capacitor. If there's anything wrong with the motherboard at all, I'm 99.9% sure its because of the power supply, in which case I would need a new PSU anyway.

Look at the connector on your mobo, and choose the PSU that matches the connector. It's probably a normal ATX.

It's a 20+4 pin connector. I think it is normal ATX. I was just wondering if an ATX12V would fit in my computer based on size, shape, and pins. From what I've read on Google it shouldn't be much of a problem (MOST of the time) putting an ATX12V in an ATX computer.

Thanks for the help with my questions.

Shindo_Hikaru: Ah, thanks for clearing that up. I guess SLI isn't something I need after all. I'm leaning toward getting an ATi card at the moment, but even if that notion changes, I certainly don't expect to get two cards at the same time. Probably won't get a second for quite some time...I really just need something to tide me over for the moment.

I narrowed my selection down to two PSUs. The ENERMAX EG425P-VE SFMA 2.0 ATX12V 420W, and the Thermaltake TR2 W0070 ATX 430W that 03GrandAmGT suggested earlier. The two PSUs would both fit my needs well enough, and both are actually very similar to each other. The only major differences between the two are as follows:

Enermax: $59.99, ATX12V, 420W, Dual +12V, Overload Protection, 5 peripheral connectors, supposedly very quiet

Thermaltake: $39.99, ATX, 430W, NO Dual +12V, NO Overload Protection, 9 peripheral connectors, supposedly fan volume varies (very quiet in some cases, very LOUD in others)

At the moment, I'm leaning toward the Enermax one. I was just wondering if any one here has any personal experience with either of these PSUs, or if anyone could recommend one over the other for any reason. I've read the reviews of both PSUs, and both sound pretty good. Just thought I'd ask here one last time before I finally buy.

Again, thanks for all the help everyone. I think I understand computer hardware in general a little bit better now, thanks to all your help!

[ripken204]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16817189003

if this comes back in stock..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16817104954

[prx984]

it probably doesnt much matter, this is just my opinion and based on what an electronics expert i know said. dont leave a computer plugged in (atx motherboard) and not running. if the powersupply is powered up and not disipating the energy it creates, it damages parts on the board. they just either die, or blow up. they could even cause what happened here, but that looks more like a cheap power supply to me.

if i were you, invest in a powerbar with a surge protector (i dont really think those help anyhow, but its probably a better thing to see on insurance) get one, plug your computer into it, then when your not using it power it down. that way everything is off. iv always had my computer on a powerbar and never had any problems with my power supply

you probably already do that though, im not sure

regards

Edited August 1, 2006 by Cygnus

[Whulph]

ripken204: You just saved me $15!

That XClio looks almost exactly like the Enermax Noisetaker I listed above, spec-wise, but at a cheaper price (AND with an extra peripheral plug, no less). The reviews are very good as well. I think this is the one I'm going to get.

A few hours ago, I noticed the newegg page stated that they had new stock, (I was keeping my eye on it off-and-on all day) but five to ten minutes later, when I refreshed, suddenly they were all gone again. I'm not sure if that was a site glitch, or if everyone who Auto-Notified it snapped them all up again...heh. When does newegg get new stock, anyway? Depending on how long it takes for newegg to get new stock, I think I might just order it straight from one of the distributors listed on the product's site.

Anyway, thanks for that link.

Cygnus: I have a power strip/surge protector, but I didn't know that bit of info about turning the strip off, or unplugging it...that sounds like a good tip. Whatever'll help prolong the life of anything inside that little box.

[prx984]

ripken204: You just saved me $15!

Cygnus: I have a power strip/surge protector, but I didn't know that bit of info about turning the strip off, or unplugging it...that sounds like a good tip. Whatever'll help prolong the life of anything inside that little box.

hey, glad you liked the tip