cappyboi Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Hi, Im new to the forum and I'm a little lost on the recovery method.I noticed Gradius posted a link to seagate fix tool on ebay that would do the same thing without splicing the cables and wiring. I just wanted to know if I need a separate power supply to connect to the sata power port before I buy this?http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280748167812 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Hi, Im new to the forum and I'm a little lost on the recovery method.I noticed Gradius posted a link to seagate fix tool on ebay that would do the same thing without splicing the cables and wiring. I just wanted to know if I need a separate power supply to connect to the sata power port before I buy this?You need such a power supply expecially AFTER you have bought the referenced item . But you can get it from *any* desktop PSU, at the most you may need a Molex 4 pin to SATA cable/adapter, something like this one:An alternative is to buy one of those El-Cheapo USB adapters, example:If you have not a clear idea of the procedure, read the "alternate" and actually suggested as it is more detailed, with images and what not guide:http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.htmljaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cappyboi Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I really appreciate the quick reply jaclaz , I saw a lot of tutorials out there and some had a power supply connected and some didn't so I was a little lost. Luckily I can just salvage a power supply from my old desktop. One more question, although I think I'm answering it as I type it. I noticed on mapleleaf's tutorial he had two additional cables from the serial line going to the power supply. I wouldn't need to do that if I bought the ebay item since that is USB powered right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 One more question, although I think I'm answering it as I type it. I noticed on mapleleaf's tutorial he had two additional cables from the serial line going to the power supply. I wouldn't need to do that if I bought the ebay item since that is USB powered right?Yep (meaning NO , you won't need the two additional wires to power the adapter), just in case REMEMBER GROUNDing.jaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cappyboi Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Duly Noted and thank you very much sir Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pr007 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Hello. When i found your forum I was very happy because there was a solution to the annoying problem of this drives. But unfortunately it didn't go as it supposed to. I bought the adapter from ebay:http://www.ebay.com/itm/280748167812?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649connected everything but I can't get past this step:F3 T>2LED:000000CC FAddr:0025BF67LED:000000CC FAddr:0025BF67I manage to get the F3 T>, but when I type 2 and hit enter I always get the LED errors.I have tried both the "head" and "motor" methods and also by completely removing the PCB board but all three methods returned the same error. I also tried waiting 20-30 seconds before hitting CTRL-Z in all three methods as someone suggested in the previous posts. My drive is not ES. If I try to run the drive with the PCB board screwed on the HyperTerminal also returns a LED error, just with a different number.If someone has any other ideas...I would appreciate it. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smandurlo Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 /2not 2u must write EXACTLY what is written, not something similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspot Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Hi everyone.I am looking at this drive for a friend. I had no luck in getting his drive to say anything to me, so I dug up an oscilloscope to take a look at what was happening at the pins. It looks like there is somewhere around 4 volts on the RX pin and 2.6 volts on the TX pin. These reading were taken when nothing was hooked up to the hard drive. I am assuming some components on the board have gone bad. I would appreciate any helpful feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlouBul Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I had no luck in getting his drive to say anything to me...First things first. Did you do a loopback test? See the FGA for more info. (especially no. 4) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspot Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 I had no luck in getting his drive to say anything to me...First things first. Did you do a loopback test? See the FGA for more info. (especially no. 4)I did do a loopback test. I have several usb-ttl devices. One is a bus pirate and the other two are spark fun devices. I modified one of the spark fun devices to work on 3.3V as per their guide. They were all capable of talking to themselves. I was even successful hooking them up to each other and sending data from one serial console to the other.Thanks for the quick reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 I am not sure to get it.Forget about voltage on pins (temporarily).Is the disk LBA0 or BSY? Or none of the above? jaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspot Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Is the disk LBA0 or BSY? Or none of the above? jaclazIt isn't picked up by BIOS, so BSY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 It isn't picked up by BIOS, so BSY.Can you confirm it by using Victoria or mhdd or hdat2?If the PCB has some components gone it may not be BSY, but simply "not working".jaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspot Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Can you confirm it by using Victoria or mhdd or hdat2?If the PCB has some components gone it may not be BSY, but simply "not working".I broke down the setup to power the hdd. I will have to move some stuff around, but will report back on what I find. I am guessing that I can find information on: Victoria, mhdd, and hdat2 in the forum?Thanks again for the input.c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I am guessing that I can find information on: Victoria, mhdd, and hdat2 in the forum?They are "very specific" apps, you won't get much info here on MSFN, but Google helps .You need only the basics, in Victoria there will be a "BUSY" indicator, HDAT2 is more complex but well documented, MHDD is possibly the most "difficult" to use.http://forum.hddguru.com/victoria-for-windows-english-help-google-translated-t12829.htmlhttp://translate.google.de/translate?prev=hp&hl=en&js=y&u=http%3A%2F%2Fhdd-911.com%2F&sl=ru&tl=en&history_state0=Direct download:http://hdd-911.com/index.php?option=com_docman&Itemid=31http://hdd-911.com/index.php?option=com_docman&Itemid=31&task=view_category&catid=81&order=dmdate_published&ascdesc=DESChttp://hdd-911.com/index.php?option=com_docman&task=docclick&Itemid=31&bid=87&limitstart=0&limit=15jaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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