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With 80 wires cable in case of cable select the Black end is master, the Gray middle is slave, the Blue end goes to the motherboard. (even if you do not use cable select you should NOT change these connections, you can actually exchange Black with Gray BUT it is very likely you will have signal issues as current disk drives in use are using ATA 5 or 6 which use DMA modes 3 or 4 times faster than what originally prompted for use of the 80 connector cable with the master device on the end) In practice, initially fake that you are setting up a cable select system and connect connectors as per specs , then do not trust the devices , nor the cable, nor the BIOS, nor anything else but the jumpers of the devices and set anyway the jumpers properly. @ jaclaz Then why does an 80-wire one-device cable with the blue end connected to the motherboard and the other black end connected to the hard disk that's jumpered as Master or Single (WD) on IDE channel 0, and another 80-wire one-device cable with the blue end connected to the motherboard and the other black end connected to the DVD burner that's jumpered as Master on IDE channel 1 FAIL? The BIOS doesn't detect either the hard disk or the DVD burner with this configuration. Yes, that's correct. My hard disk sits below my DVD burner, which is why I'm trying to use an 80-wire two-device cable with the blue end connected to the motherboard, the gray connector connected to my hard disk set as Master w/ Slave Present, and the black connector connected to my DVD burner set as Slave. Both the hard disk and DVD burner are detected by the BIOS, the hard disk works, but Windows doesn't detect the DVD burner. How would you set this up using the least amount of cables to increase airflow?

PLEASE, get with the program!This MoBo is WAY too new to bother with CS, of which OLD MoBo's would sometimes "recommend" it OR the junky OLD CD/DVD would "recommend" it. And, as stated, CS is many times unreliable (MY "last resort"). P.S. Some "genius BIOS" is perfectly happy with "detecting" even though WRONG! Huh? I just read an article from a credible source yesterday that said it doesn't matter which connector you use for master and slave. All that matters is the jumpers are set correctly. This BIOS is from 2004. I've never had a problem with Cable Select in 8 years, which was the original jumper settings on the hard disk, CD-ROM and DVD burner. Let me try to find the article again and share it with you.... Found it. It does not matter which connector is used for master or slave in a standard IDE setup. However, when using Ultra DMA in a single-drive configuration you should use the end connector because of electrical signaling issues. But let's assume you're right and they're wrong. It still doesn't explain why all those other IDE cable configurations failed.

You may know , but unfortunately you completely fail to show your knowledge , in the sense that you haven't (yet) found a way to properly communicate your experiments. Because they tend to NEVER work properly/because it's not just your motherboard IDE ports (or BIOS) that are particularly fussy. Thus DO NOT use Cable Select, in most cases it resolves to a vain attempt. WHICH colours are the connectors on that single cable? WHICH colours are the connectors on that double cable? ALL THESE make little of NO sense: Examples of something I (and I guess I am not the only one complòetely failing to make head or tail of yourt reports) can understand: or: jaclaz In other words, these two IDE cable configurations are the only ones that seem to fully or partially work: Device: Hard disk Connected to: IDE channel 0 Jumpers on device: Master or Single (WD) Cable used: Single Connector colour connected to motherboard: Blue Connector colour connected to device: Black Result: Works ===================== Device: Hard disk Connected to: IDE channel 0 Jumpers on device: Master w/ slave present (WD) Cable used: Double Connector colour connected to motherboard: Blue Connector colour connected to device: Gray (doesn't matter) Device: DVD burner Connected to: IDE channel 0 Jumpers on device: Slave Cable used: Double Connector colour connected to motherboard: Blue Connector colour connected to device: Black (doesn't matter) Result: Works but DVD burner is not detected in Windows Note: both devices are detected in BIOS.

Another reason to read the given post and links. 80 wire cables are colour coded, you cannot "invent" a master or slave, if the connector is gray, it is for a slave device, if it is black it is for a master device, the blue ONLY goes to the motherboard and still using cable select is NOT recommended (by me). jaclaz Yes, I know. All my cables are color coded like you said. Why don't you like cable select? And why is my IDE ports so fussy? Single cable = IDE cable with 2 connectors Double cable = IDE cable with 3 connectors Single cable set to CS and single cable set to CS; no BIOS detection. Single cable set to M and single cable set to M; no BIOS detection. Single cable set to M and single cable set to CS; no BIOS detection. Double cable set to CS and CS; Windows won't boot. Single cable set to M; works. Double cable set to Master with slave present (Western Digital) and slave; works but DVD burner is not detected in Windows.

All my IDE cables are 80 wire.

Carpenter's comparison : The car engine model or serial would not be a problem as I always have 1 hammer in the toolbox . The only time when an engine gets replaced with a new one is when it starts making an odd noise. I really need to study this subject, but feel - having not yet studied/understood ANYTHING about engine replacement or mechanics in general and what is involved in them, that I can hammer the new one into place allright. Really, you should READ the given thread: and if you have doubts on what is written there, ask about those doubts (as opposed to insist in making guesses - BTW wild ones - assuming - BTW wrongly - or downright do things that you may later regret). More or less the idea of coming to a forum and ask a question, is to get answers to the question and learn (by listening to advice and doing your own experiments, as you should not trust anyone, EVER) how to do things from people that should know more than you do on the specific matter. Please consider how this does not in any way limit your freedom to do or not do anything (right or wrong) that crosses your mind, but you could show at least a very minimal form of respect for the time people spends in trying to explain to you the matter by actually reading and try to understand the suggestions given to you. jaclaz Jaclaz, I do read everything you and others suggest. That's how I realized the best thing to do is use GParted and shrink my C: partition to, say, 160 GB. This way I can restore my Macrium image to a 250 GB hard disk or 160 GB hard disk with no issues.

That sounds like one of the arrangements I suggested. How were you trying to connect it that didn't work? What was different? Single cable set to CS and single cable set to CS; no BIOS detection. Single cable set to M and single cable set to M; no BIOS detection. Single cable set to M and single cable set to CS; no BIOS detection. Double cable set to CS and CS; Windows won't boot. And what did this mean anyway, just out of curiosity? (I don't know what "upper and lower filters registry entries" are.) These have something to do with optical drives and sometimes deleting them restores the optical drive icons in My Computer, but not for me. Cheers and Regards Has anyone ever heard of an OEM BIOS requiring a certain IDE cable setup, or it will cause these kinds of issues? That's the only thing it could be.

I'd delete all except C: and let it rediscover everything else when it needs it. Yes, leave the BIOS settings for all IDE channels on "Auto" Cheers and Regards None of those are the problem. As funny as it sounds, I bet if I use the original OEM IDE cable setup of one master cable for the hard disk on channel 0 and the other master and slave cable on channel 1, the DVD drive will be detected by Windows. I've never heard of Windows being so picky about IDE cables before, but I just have a feeling this will solve it. I don't know why, but I just know it probably will.

you are coming around to what I first suggested: I really think this is indeed your best, safest, most flexible and reliable option. I also agree that it will be best to do a good, thorough, defrag and system cleanup beforehand, including moving things off the system disk that are better kept on a separate data disk, deleting temporary files that are no longer needed, etc. There are many free partitioning programs out there, including GParted. I'd be glad to tell you which one I've used in the past when I have had to shrink a system partition, but I no longer remember. It can be done successfully with no data loss. Once shrunk, Macrium Reflect should be able to do a good job for you. I have used it successfully in the past myself. One thing to be aware of, if you are not already, is that when Macrium Reflect clones a partition/disk, it really duplicates it. In other words, you can't have both the original and the restored clone both in your system at the same time, because they both will have the same "Volume ID"(??) and Windows will not be able to tell the difference between them. Sorry I'm not sure about the exact terminology, my memory is not what it used to be, but I had this problem a few years back when I tried to reuse the original disk, for other purposes, in the same system I had installed the clone. I found a utility that was able to reset the "Volume ID"(??) so all ended up good in the end. Cheers and Regards The volume ID will never be an issue because I always have 1 hard disk installed in the system. The only time a hard disk gets replaced with a new one is when it starts making an odd noise. I really need to study this subject, but feel, like you, this would be the best option.

Notice the bold part? There are some that will NOT move (system-type files). You'll STILL need to be sure that you have enough "room" for the Primary's needs AND be sure that ther's sufficient for a Backup. You suggested a "40gig" as "backup" - does this IMPLY that this is the USED SPACE on your Primary Partition? You have a tendency to NEVER provide sufficient details and expect a clear-cut answer. Maybe if we tortured you? I PERSONALLY would try the "alternate" method against the NEW HDD first to see how it works out, for safety sake. I suppose you would want the "tools" list that you will need to add to the BartPE? I personally don't USE BartPE, but use INSTEAD LiveXP (WinBuilder) - all the tools needed would be there - just ADD the other files (Roboxxx) you need to the Build. Unhook Old HDD, Hook New HDD and TRY it. (Side note - jaclaz also contributed a couple of excellent tools to the WinBuilder.) YES, I have used GParted to resize and was TERRIFIED when I did it (defragged FIRST). Strangely (not really), sometimes Resize of Partitions "assumes" certain Cluster Sizes (you DID know that right?). YOU choose the route. WE choose our OWN methods. "To each their own that works for them" (I am NOT clairvoyant and can't GUARANTEE that anything YOU do will work). I will always provide any details asked for or I think are necessary to solve the problem. The used space on my hard disk is about 13 GB. The 40 GB is just a good amount for all the space I think I'd ever need.

The only device that has a drive letter is the primary active system partition, with drive letter C:. As I said earlier, the DVD burner doesn't appear in Windows, so I can't assign it a new drive letter in Disk Management. I suspect this has something to do with the IDE cables and jumpers. Even though they're correct, the BIOS doesn't seem to like many configurations. Here's what I've tried so far, and all IDE cables are good: Single cable = IDE cable with 2 connectors Double cable = IDE cable with 3 connectors Single cable set to CS and single cable set to CS; no BIOS detection. Single cable set to M and single cable set to M; no BIOS detection. Single cable set to M and single cable set to CS; no BIOS detection. Double cable set to CS and CS; Windows won't boot. I have three more cable configurations to test. The DVD burner isn't detected in Removable Storage. Remember, Windows isn't detecting the DVD burner, so nowhere will it be found in Windows. Deleting the unused drive letters under HKLM > SYSTEM > MountedDevices did no good. The BIOS does detect the DVD burner as Channel 0 Device 1 on auto.

Why would you think this was needed? Are you running below spec on PSU? Not the live system, but when on UPS it would cause an overload, so the CD-ROM drive, which uses about 25 W, and the USB card reader, which uses about 5 W, had to go.

You NEVER followed up into the YET part, DID you?You INITIALLY said NOW, if you REREAD what has been POSTED and UNDERSTAND what will FURTHER need to be done to "COPY" (you got THAT link too by jaclaz, as well as info in his LAST post) you SHOULD be ok to COPY.I did read all others' comments and visited the links and appreciate all your effort. Do you think I should just use GParted and shrink the volume from 250 GB to 40 GB, or would this cause data loss? It sounds much easier than robocopy. RTFL (L=LINKS!) and RTFC (C=COMMENTS)... THIMK!!! (intentional misspelling).

You just now said "OHHH!!! I forgot to mention, I realize the problem - scratch that one", otherwise I wouldn't have mentioned it. You ALSO didn't mention that! We do NOT consult "crystal balls" here. Try this - go into SAFE mode and REMOVE those items from the Device Manager and REBOOT! I "assume" you set the jumpers on the back correctly? I didn't think it was necessary. I mean, it's just a CD-ROM drive and USB card reader. I uninstalled the DVD burner, CD-ROM drive, and USB card reader in Safe Mode in Device Manager, but Windows never said it found new hardware after I logged back in and scanning for hardware changes did nothing. As far as I know, the drives' jumpers are correct. The WD hard disk is set as Master w/ slave present and the DVD drive is set as slave.

NO, you cannot. You can restore the contents (files/directories) to a NEW (smaller) partition, using robocopy, which AGAIN is short for robust FILE copy. It copies files, and NOT filesystem/partitions/volumes. Namely you will lose: Volume Serial (you are not restoring a partition, you are restoring the contents of the old partition to a new one) PBR/bootsector code (unless the original has the "standard" code of the OS you are creating the NEW (smaller) partition Any contents of the "reserved sectors" more likely than not creation date/times of folders (it depends on version of robocopy and of course on the switches used) Of course if it is just a data partition this may have no consequences whatsoever. You are doing FILE BASED save and restore, NOT partition/volume/filesystem based save and restore (they are NOT the same thing). jaclaz This is a system partition of my entire Windows OS. Can robocopy even restore ALL the files and folders in the Macrium image, or would it be better to use GParted, shrink my existing partition to 40 GB, and create another Macrium image that can be restored to a larger or smaller partition no problem? I read I could lose data if I resize my partition. True?

No, I hardly screw with my OS. The DVD burner disappeared in Windows after I transferred the system into my new case and removed the CD-ROM drive and card reader to regain some power supply wattage so I could install a front fan to improve cooling. I know that. I was ready to buy two jumpers to do that. If I were to attach the case front panel audio connector AC'97 audio to my motherboard's front audio header and if a pin was wrong, is there any chance of damaging my motherboard, or would something just not work?

There's no point. Version 5 of Macrium Reflect supports restoring an image to a smaller drive by default. No sense in making things harder than they need to be. As for me, I'm stubborn and never upgrade unless I have a want or need. I'm not going to 5, because I HATE constantly making a new BartPE every time they change something. Maybe I'll just skip robo and shrink my existing XP partition with GParted from 250 GB to, say, 40 GB, and then it'll never be an issue.

See if it is detected if a disc is in the drive when the PC boots. Is it a SATA or ATAPI DVD drive? I can boot from a CD or DVD. It's ATAPI. In addition to deleting the LowerFilters registry entry, I ran the Microsoft CD and DVD Fix It tool, which didn't help. The DVD drive isn't shown in Device Manager by default. It's shown as a ghosted icon under hidden devices that's disconnected. All drive jumpers and cables are correct and secure. The drive is also not shown in Computer Management. The DVD drive is healthy. No idea what to do.

Which was?? (For other's benefit, it is the Christmas season after all. ) Cheers and Regards The answer is you can use robocopy from within an emergency boot CD and restore the partition to a smaller drive. It's a lot of command line work, but it does work.

New issue. My DVD drive is no longer detected in My Computer. BIOS detects it. I tried removing the upper and lower filters registry entries and restarting, but still no DVD drive icon in My Computer.

Yes, I did visit and read every link you gave. It didn't answer my question, which is why I asked again. After many more hours of research, I finally found my answer.

Just an update on my build. Everything went fairly smoothly in one pass other than Windows XP complaining for no good reason a few times and giving me a message saying We're sorry for the inconvenience, but Windows did not start correctly... And of course there was nothing really wrong and that was Windows just being Windows and after the 2nd reboot it logged right into Windows like it always has. But I do have one major problem. Now everybody that's followed this thread knows I had no plans of connecting the case front panel audio connector because the manufacturers make it idiotically complicated with all their different pin and connector names. However, my system has no sound from the analog desktop speakers connected to the rear green output port. I thought the AC'97 audio case front panel connector was for only front panel audio? I checked all my sound settings and everything is set correctly. I use onboard Realtek AC'97 audio. Worse, the AC'97 case front panel connector uses Intel's IFPA AC'97 audio and the motherboard uses a proprietary header and pins 1, 3, 4 and 7 don't match. The case front panel audio uses block connectors (HD Audio or AC'97), and in order to use them, I'd have to remove each pin from the block connector, but I don't know how without causing damage. Does each pin have a separate connector when removed from the block connector, or would they be bare wires?

http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx More info? http://www.911cd.net/forums//index.php?showtopic=24225 I had all that information. It doesn't answer my question. The question is Can I copy both Robocopy.exe and Roborestore.exe to the same folder on my USB drive with the FAT32 file system, click Roborestore.exe in BartPE's environment, and configure the GUI version to restore the image to a smaller partition? Or must I use the command prompt in BartPE and run Roborestore.exe and Robocopy.exe? And if so, what is the syntax to run Robocopy? That's all I need to know.

1. That's what I thought. Not a problem. I'll just slipstream my RAID/SATA controller driver into my next BartPE disc, and I'm sure the SATA optical drive will work just fine. 2. Can you please help me with this? Can I copy both Robocopy.exe and Roborestore.exe to the same folder on my USB drive with the FAT32 file system, click Roborestore.exe in BartPE's environment, and configure the GUI version to restore the image to a smaller partition? Or must I use the command prompt in BartPE and run Roborestore.exe and Robocopy.exe?

A safer, more flexible way might be to shrink your partition to the minimum size that will hold the data in it before making your Macrium image. That way you can more easily restore it to any partition that will hold the data. Cheers and Regards This isn't an option, as I have a new blank smaller hard disk that I need to restore my Macrium Reflect image to. The saved partition is 250 GB and the new one will be 160 GB. A 250 GB hard disk to a 160 GB hard disk. Can you please answer my original question about using a USB flash drive and Roborestore through BartPE, and keep with this strategy? Thank you.