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I burnt a BartPE disc last year using Windows XP with SP3 and even added third-party SATA drivers. Well, now I have newer file versions for one of my plug-ins, so I want to update and reburn the disc. But I have a few questions: 1. Is it possible to simply delete the older file versions inside a subfolder of BartPE's "plugins" folder and drag and drop the newer file versions in their place, without having to do the whole make-a-Bart-PE process again, and then burn the disc? Or, no because Bart or the plug-in's software creates automated configuration files? 2. Do I have to set the disc as bootable in my burner software, even though the disc is already bootable?

No, I was talking about the MAIN cable that brings power to "the outlet on the left or right side of the room". It is possible that that cable is placed in a way that it creates interferences with the magnetic fields of your screen. Maybe you can't see that cable but it has to be somewhere. A good theory. I'm just gonna write two notes and tape them above both problematic outlets that reads: Do NOT plug a motorized or large device into this outlet. Doing so could damage the computer.

I know the problem is the two outlets. I just didn't know what the problem was. That sounds right because if the toaster oven is plugged into the kitchen outlet and air-conditioner is plugged into the living room outlet and both are turned on, it causes a blackout, so this must be the same deal on another line. My only concern is if I forget not to plug a motorized device into one of the two outlets, could this damage my motherboard? The monitor is still working. I want to say no because the computer and monitor are connected to a high-quality UPS that never switches to battery when it looks like the monitor is having a brownout, sag, spike or surge, but there could be something else to it. I only use PFC power supplies and I don't think a line-conditioning UPS would detect the brownout, sag, spike or surge because this standby UPS never does.

Well, if the power cable (main arrival) passes just next to the screen, it's still likely to be. Because in the 1st case the stronger power goes through that cable, in the 2nd case it does not. Solution is to pull the CRT away from the wall. The power cable of a motorized device? If so, the power cable is plugged into an outlet on the left or right side of the room and not close to the monitor. And when a motorized device is plugged into an outlet in the other room, the extension cord is closer to the monitor but does not cause the monitor image to shake.

Hey, guys, I'm back with another tough question. I have three AC outlets in the room. The room has only 1 three-prong outlet into which my UPS is plugged. My UPS has my computer and monitor plugged into it. Whenever I plug a motorized device (microwave, hairdryer or portable heater) into either of the other two outlets and turn it on, the image on my CRT monitor violently shakes until I turn off the motorized device. The cause can't be EMI because the monitor image is stable when those same motorized devices are plugged into an outlet in a different room, turned on using a super long heavy-duty extension cord, and placed the same distance from the monitor in the room with my computer. The UPS never switches to battery while the monitor image violently shakes, so the problem must not be causing an undervoltage or overvoltage that could damage the motherboard, specifically the VGA port and onboard VRAM, right? What do you suppose is the cause?

The problem is you are relying on software to remove unwanted Windows components, a manual task that requires an extremely high level of expertise and much patience. A task that I did last year, removing every useless .INF and driver. And no, I just didn't guess; I read every line of all the hundreds of .INFs and Windows never snapped. The "inf" directory is now just 18.1 MB. Before this I spent a good two years removing every other useless Windows component, not just the common easy ones software like nLite remove. All without a backup image - it made me feel as if I were disarming a bomb and the pressure was on - and not so much as an error or dysfunctional component.

Whenever I click it on my profile to find one of my old topics or posts to very hard questions with answers because I forgot how to do something, the site only finds a few of my topics or posts, not all.

Sure. Of the scale like if today they'd stop the ability to install the DOS 6.0 that came out in 93. Are you trying to resurect a closed thread ? No, I'm genuinely interested to know. Do you think it'll become a problem for retail versions as time goes on after 2014?

Isn't there something in the Microsoft EULA that forces Microsoft to keep the activation servers for XP active forever? The software is the end user's forever. So what happens in, say, 2020. Is there a possibility that if you have to reinstall XP, you won't be able to because Microsoft shut down the activation servers? I highly doubt Microsoft would do that because there'd be an uproar, but just curious.

Now I understand. Thank you for that scientific explanation. But holding a metal key in your hand is better than nothing, right? Yes, it's not the most effective grounding method, but is it at all effective, even if just a bit? I mean, it is metal.

I can't speak for him, but my "layman's" explanation would be that the size of metal object needs to be large enough to receive/absorb the electrons that have been built up (or lack of them, but ignore this because the result is the same). So maybe smaller than a case, but definitely larger then a key - in "normal", everyday conditions one might encounter. GL It sounds right. And I think I can simplify the subject. All you have to do to ground yourself and protect hardware from ESD is keep you and the hardware grounded (connected) to the same bare metal object. For example, wear an anti-static strap and attach it to a bare metal part of the case. If you can't do that, because, say, you're working on a motherboard, then touch a bare metal object off and on, like a door knob, until you're done working on the hardware. The object does not have to be touching the floor (Earth or grounded) to properly ground yourself. I can't find an answer that proves the size of the object must be at least as big as the case, though.

The key term is "common ground". If you must work on components without a chassis then ground the component and yourself to a common object, such as a metal table. The screw holes of the motherboard are ground connection points. You're right. I didn't think of it. So if I touch the motherboard screw hole, am I grounded and the main board protected?

But let's say you're working on a motherboard out of the case and on a work bench. Would holding a bare metal key or tweezers ground you and protect the motherboard from ESD? I just want to ensure I really am grounded when I can't use my strap because no large bare metal objects are around.

That you can't tell, damaging could result in shorter life as well, and it is hard to tell if it was you or fabrication.When I build a system, and I've build quite a few I must say, I just touch the bare metal from the case (housing) and that should be enough to work secure, but just a small metal object won't do (like a key), it needs some volume. Sure you can tell if you damaged hardware by ESD. If you own a hard disk for 16 years, you know ESD didn't harm it. When you say the bare metal object needs "volume," do you mean it needs to be at least as big as the computer case? If so, why does the size of the object matter? Isn't bare metal, bare metal?

I can't find a straight answer. There's two camps. One camp says just touching a bare metal object grounds you (I'm a member of this camp), and the other camp says the bare metal object must be connected to the ground (Earth). Who is right? All the OEMs agree with my camp, saying to ground yourself, all you have to do is touch a bare metal object, like the computer case or a card connector. I don't think OEMs would give misinformation and cost themselves their reputations and finances, but who do you think is right? In all my nine years in this business, I've never damaged hardware by ESD, and I always use an anti-static strap attached to the bare metal case frame when working inside my box, so obviously grounding youself does NOT require the bare metal object to be connected to the Earth, because the case is on a table. So really, you could simply hold a bare metal key in your hand and stay grounded the entire process, right?

Do I need FrontX to replace a USB internal cable and port, or can I buy a new cable and port and install it myself? How are ports secured to the front of the PC? Are they glued or do you simply pull them out?

Are the USB cables that connect to the motherboard headers and have the USB ports that attach to the case replaceable? Can you buy them at a store? Can you remove the case ports, or would you need to buy a new case?

Yes, it is. There's enough out there, but I just really hate the widescreen.

Only if it is 1280*1024 for example . No, I just went monitor shopping and all the LCDs have an aspect ratio of 5:4 or 16:9. I wanted 4:3, but there wasn't one. Anyway, I took home a 17" HP 1751g. Other than the bulky base, it's a nice monitor. It has a DVI port, so there's some upgradability back there.

Windows XP Home with SP3 for life. I guarantee you I will be the only one using XP in 2030 and beyond. I have devised a master plan, and barring some circumstance with a happening-rate of less than 1%, will achieve my goal.

Great teamwork, Den! We solved the case. The underlined is what I thought but wanted to confirm. I wouldn't chance the Sempron. It's not in the manual, so it's not a trusted-compatible CPU and could cause damage. Guys, I appreciate the effort, but you're missing the point. This is my main system. This system meets all my current and, as far as I can see, future needs. I have absolutely no desire or need to upgrade my system now or, as far as I can see, ever. I know exactly what I'm doing and have put extreme thought into future-proofing my system. Older technologies, such as IDE and VGA, will always be suitable for most end users, including me. New is not always better, and even in the rare instance it is, the performance gain is so tiny, it can't justify the bloated costs.

Den, you're reading the wrong manual. The Kamet is the older HP Pavilion variant of this motherboard. I run the Kelut. The FSB is 266-400 MHz. So that would mean this motherboard can run the AXDA3200DKV4E or 4D, 1.65 V CPU with no tweaking, right?

LOL They're funny.

Den, thanks for trying so hard. I think I got my answer. The 1.5 V AMD Athlon XP 3000+ is an OEM processor. This motherboard does support up to a 3200+ according to the manual. Since all Athlon XP 3200s use a 1.65 V, this motherboard must natively support a CPU V Core up to 1.65 V, because there's no V Core setting in BIOS. What do you think?