BlouBul

No Problem. Regarding, the converters. I do not know the dual voltage converters, but the user manual will probably tell you how to set them. I'm sure they will all work if it can be set correctly at 3.3V. (so go for the cheapest one ) Did you manage to measure the voltage on your current converter?

I didn't mean to imply that you can't solder, just meant it is a bit of a nuisance to get everything set up and do the soldering between the USB port and the converter if not neccessary (I'm sure you have all the skills needed ) I just meant if your converter already measures 3.3V, there is no need to buy a new one, but no harm to get a new one anyway.

Hi Mapex, I have given it some more thought. I won't recommend the extra resistor route. That second converter is not too epensive and if you don't measure the right voltage on your current convertor, I'll go for that one. If your voltage is 3.3V on your current converter, you can try the Full Reset (for BSY). Maybe it will be read without the PCB connected. That will not do any damage and if it is some firmware issue preventing it from being read, that will also being fixed. Loosening one screw and inserting a piece of cardstock shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes.

Hi sadalmelik828, You basicly follow the first post of this topic. What they do not tell you is you need a converter for Hyperterminal to talk to your disk. You can get more info on the converters in the thread on the 7200.11. See Read-me-first especially point 10&11 for info regarding converters. (Also the guide by CarterinCanada (link in READ-ME-FIRST)) Remember that that is a different procedure with different commands. Just read that to get a feel for the converter setup.

Hi Mapex You can test with a multimeter the Voltage between VCC and GND. It is probably possible to reduce the voltage with resistors (just wait for jaclaz to confirm this - he will hopefully also have a couple of good comments) That type of converter is actually recommended (why trying to solder if you are not used to it and trying to power it externally if not neccessary).

Hi netxare, Welcome to MSFN NO!!! Never try a PCB swap with these drives. It won't work and besides that, you can damage both drives. Your hyperterminal commands look funny. It seems some are missing, and others are different. Please try the commands EXACTLY as given in this guide: http://www.mapleleaf...agatebrick.html If you read a couple of posts back on this page, you will see this: That means that normally if they format your drive (and even if you can get the same drive back), you won't be able to recover anything. If you can't get them to do the data recovery, it is better to do it yourself if you want your data back.

Hi Mapex, Welcome to MSFN You have describe in detail the converter setup (which sounds right, especially the successful loopback. But you have not said anything about the Hdd. Did you manage to disconnect the PCB before trying the reset? The adapter is normally USB powered (but not always). The link doesn't say if the supplied voltage is 3.3 or 5V. The 3.3V normally works better. Do you know what the supply voltage is? See also Read-me-First Point 10&11 Edit: Sorry, see now it is LBA0- shouldn't need to disconnect PCB.

I was actually referring to the problem of the drive being lost/ damaged/ stolen during shipping (x2) Talking of elephant stampedes being worse, you should have seen the one yesterday (even joined by a couple of hippos, rhinos and buffalo) when they read demo2's post and realised that seagate are actually now doing something about the drives that they caused to brick. (they battle to do the unbricking themselves due to a lack of fingers) The crocodile-infested rivers/swamps and corrupt border posts didn't stand a chance. I'm glad I'm not the one having to tell them that is only for the drives that Seagate thinks (or rather publicly admits) is affected...

Hi demo2, just to try and clarify your options If you can take it to them and they can fix it while you wait, that will be first prize. If you want to ship it to them, you must take the following in consideration: How important is the data on the disk? If it is just all your illegal downloads of movies/music which is already backed up on all your friends computers or anything backed up somewhere else, you can look at shipping. If it is the only copy of your thesis on why it is important to always have a backup (or the only copy of anything you consider really important), you have to reconsider (we would really like to see that published). Also, depending on your location. If you live in the middle of Africa and have to ship it halfway across the globe through crocodile-infested swamps and corrupt border posts, you might have a problem (my experience). Reading what jaclaz said, if you live in the middle of Europe, it might be the same problem. Anyway, evaluate the value of your data and location and decide. Choices, Choices.

That sounds good! If they provide this service for free of charge this would definitely be the way to go. (unless off course if you want to experience the adrenaline rush when you get your drive working yourself )

Hi demo2, Welcome to MSFN They will basicly "reset" the drive to the way it was with a similar method as suggested here and then upgrade the firmware that the bug will not strike again. The way I understand it, Seagate normally do not send you the same drive back, but another one (maybe they have changed that thinking by looking at what you quoted), so just confirm that. Do not believe everything "someone" tells you. Ask "someone" where he/she got the info from, as there is obviously a lot of people who upgraded their firmware and not lost their data and has still been able to read their drives (some evidence in the previous 3200 posts). This bug is a firmware issue and can be prevented from happening again by upgrading the firmware. Unfortunately you have to "fix" your drive first before you can upgrade the firmware. It is also strongly recommended to first backup your data when you get your drive working before attempting the firmware upgrade (see read-me-first) If Seagate is just around the corner from you and they are willing to do as they said in your post, that will be the easiest option, otherwise you can try it yourself. As has been said before: Read also the replies to Coffeecup's post on the previous page (he is a self-proclaimed "doorknob").

@CoffeeCup: See, there is hope for you after all!!! To translate into doorknob-compatible language: If you use any of the converters mentioned, you do not need to build your own and following CarterinCanada's guide you will only need the following on his parts list to fix your drive: no 1 Torx 6 screwdriver no.7 Power adapter (if your PC doesn't have a spare SATA power connection already) no. 10 Terminal emulation program no. 11 Cardstock no.12 Sandpaper/ knife (maybe) The one end of the converter plugs into your USB port and the other three wires connect to your hdd. Then there is no need for the breadboard and stuff you are worried about.

I'm the eternal optimist, always trying to turn a doorknob in someone useful... @CoffeeCup jaclaz is right (Again!). First try to get hold of the converters he mentioned. If you can't get hold of something suitable, we can try the Nokia cable.

If a doorknob is guided to find the right connections by looking at the Nokia End (which is standard on all cables), he won't damage the cable by trying to open the USB end and hoping to find some markings there. If he further gets it with an installation cd, the drivers should not be a problem. That will give him the same thing as your converters. Sometimes a Nokia cable seems less threatening and easier to locate for a technological challenged person . I must admit your third link is very good value for money. @CoffeeCup Whichever method you choose, I agree totally with jaclaz: Anyway, it's not really difficult, you just need some patience and time, and be calm.

Hi CoffeeCup, The tutorial by CarterinCanada is actually the easy way (and doorknob friendly). It seems quite difficult at first, but pour yourself a cup of coffee, and read it two or three times to get the concepts. The most difficult part is the building of the converter with components you probably never have heard of before. After you have the concepts you can decide on your options. 1. Decide it is too difficult for you, and ask a more technical minded friend / local computer shop to help you with it (show them the guide if they don't know the procedure) 2. Decide it looks difficult, but you will still try it. Ask your local electronic shop for the components. 3. Take chance and look for a CA-42/DKU-5 cable with driver cd. That way you won't have to build a converter and we can probably get it to work... I will try to guide you with any of the three options Good Luck

Hi CylonWolf, Welcome to the MSFN Do not under any circumstances believe anything Seagate has to say about this issue, especially which drives are Not effected, most of the 7200.11's are (all firmwares before SD1A). If you have 7200.11 with SD15, SD25, SD35 etc, This method should work. See the Read-me-first http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/143880-seagate-barracuda-720011-read-me-first/ for a summary of all the gory detail (then you do not have to struggle through all of the 160 pages)

You're Welcome, You're Welcome, You're Welcome. BTW. Welcome to the MSFN

You can (or ask someone to) put your hard disk in someone elses computer and copy your data across. From there on rememer to always keep backups of your important data.

Hi Rocketdog There is a very good guide by Carter-in-Canada (not in pdf, but you can convert it to pdf if you really want to). You will find a link to that it the Read_Me First which you can find here http://www.msfn.org/...-read-me-first/.

Did you do a loopback test without the hdd connected? Try also switching Rx & Tx

Hi DrEdison Welcome at MSFN. You mentioned that you try to unbrick the drive. Up to which stage did you come? Did the disk spin down without the pcb connected? No. PCB swap won't work.

Hi bruintje1 Are you happy with the way the Read-Me-First is written now? If so, say so, then we can stop argueing if it was worded good enough long ago (You know, jaclaz DID change it after Snakebyte complained it was not clear enough for HIM, although it was clear enough for most of the other people). Then maybe you can thank him for his efforts that will now prevent people like you now having to read all the way to P154 to understand what is actually meant by grounding. Then we can move on to your issue regarding your ES.2 drive. If not, tell us what you think is not clear, and maybe jaclaz can change it again to make it clear enough for YOU also. Then we can move on to your issue regarding your ES.2 drive.

You do, off course, realise now that they are normally connected to two USB ports on the SAME computer?

Hi Bruintje1 This thread is for Seagate 7200.11 (which is actually quite easy to unbrick in comparison with the ES.2!) For ES.2, you have to be a bit more determined and carefull. See This thread for more info.

An even faster way might be to just replace the new .pst file with the old one.