Zxian

For all those interested in helping out, but don't have the requirements for Rosetta@Home, you can contribute to other projects as well for the general MSFN.org BOINC team! Join the MSFN.org BOINC team!

MSFN.org Rosetta@Home Team discussion thread

Over the years, MSFN members have been putting their hard working idle CPU cycles to use by crunching data for various distributed computing projects. Popular favorites have included SETI@Home and Rosetta@Home. Now, we're diversifying, and trying to get as many members as possible to join working on their favorite projects. What is BOINC? BOINC stands for Berkeley Open Infrastructure for Network Computing. It is a distributed computing framework that allows research groups to distribute computational tasks related to their work to users who offer their computers to crunch the data. The work units are always run on lowest priority, essentially making them run when not in use. What's the benefit? For the researchers, BOINC provides the opportunity for computational tasks that would otherwise cost thousands, if not millions, in computer hardware. By distributing the work to users, they can also find bugs in their code much faster than if their project were conducted internally. For you the user, you get to be part of a project that could have long standing effects. Some projects are dealing with protein folding, which can help solve mysteries such as genetic diseases or cancer. Other projects are trying to solve mathematical problems. Further yet, some are trying to find evidence of extra terrestrial life. The possibilities are seemingly endless. Furthermore, depending on where you live, you can make a tax-deductible donation to your favorite project! Favorite Projects SETI@Home (Extraterrestrial) Rosetta@Home (Protein folding) Einstein@Home (Astronomy) ABC@Home (Mathematics) SHA-1 Collision Search Graz (Mathematics) Ok, I'm interested. How do I sign up? Download the BOINC software from the Berkeley homepage listed at the bottom of this post. Once installed, run the BOINC Manager. It will ask you to attach to a project, and provide a list of available projects. If you haven't created an account for the selected project, do so by providing your email address and a password of your choice. If you are connecting to multiple projects, it's best to use the same email address. Once you've connected to the project, join the MSFN.org team through your project account profile. If the project doesn't have an MSFN.org team, post here, and we'll create one for you! Projects with MSFN.org teams Rosetta@Home SETI@Home Einstein@Home ABC@Home BOINC Homepage

@binaryjunk - Like cluberti, I'd never do charge for services over a forum like this. I'll do it in person, but that's usually because the people I'm talking to can't tell a molex adaptor from a hole in the ground.

Is his name Truman Burbank?

I would presume so, since you can in essence load any iptables rules you want on the WRT54G/GL. The better place to look for this information is in the Linksysinfo Tomato Firmware forums.

@BinaryJunk - You can set the BIOS to RAID mode and run the disks separately. I wanted to make sure that this wasn't a problem with the difference between ACHI mode and RAID mode. The only difference in these two configurations is the ability to create RAID arrays. All other underlying ACHI functionality is enabled in RAID mode. What SATA port did you have the DVD drive plugged into? With my setup at home, I've put my two RAID drives on ports 1 and 2, and my DVD burners always count from the top down (4,5,6 in my file server, 6 on my workstation). In any case, it looks like the DVD drive you were using doesn't play well with ACHI. Like cluberti said, the next step is to use the CD that has the storage drivers integrated along with the PATA DVD drive.

My bad Martin. I guess I didn't see that one before.

The P5K-E motherboard does indeed support the Intel Matrix RAID manager. It's got the ICH9R chipset, and if it didn't support RAID, it wouldn't give it as an option in BIOS.

I'm not so sure that this is memory related. He mentioned that when the motherboard is set to IDE mode, the installer is able to proceed normally, but it's when RAID is enabled that he gets problems. I'm guessing that he's got a SATA DVD drive that's incompatible with ACHI and RAID modes.

First off - remove the smaller fan from your PSU. It's spinning, but it's probably just impeding airflow more than helping. To answer your electrical question, if both fans are connected to the same source, then they'd both be operating at 12V - i.e. 100%. This being said, the smaller fan likely has less airflow per area than what you get through the vents from the larger fan. Furthermore, unless you've completely cut out the grille behind the smaller fan, it's likely doing nothing in terms of helping airflow. Small fans rarely provide enough air pressure to blow through grilles - even those simple finger guards. Also, I doubt that you'd need a 70CFM fan to power your PSU. During typical operation, the fan should only need to blow a moderate amount of air to keep the internals of the PSU cool (70CFM is a relatively high volume fan). When you remove the heatsink, do it carefully, and try not to smear it on the surface of the CPU. Unclip the heatsink, and then lift it straight up. Does the thermal paste on the base of the heatsink match the size of the CPU? If not, or if you've got gaps anywhere, then the heatsink isn't making good contact with the CPU. I'm guessing one of two things. Either the heatsink isn't mounted properly, or the heatsink or IHS (integrated heat spreader) has pretty severe curvature to it (which is relatively rare on AMD CPUs). I noticed higher than expected temperatures from my Intel CPU, and found that it was severly concave. Find yourself a straight razor (or something else extremely straight) and hold it against the surface of the IHS on the CPU. Hold the two up to a light source to look at the bottom edge of the razor. If the surface is flat, you won't see any light coming through. If there's a slight gap, then it shouldn't be too much of a problem, but as you can see with my setup, there were portions of the CPU that weren't making contact with the heatsink at all.

I guess that would make sense. The SP2 x64 distributable file is 64-bit, so it wouldn't be able to run under a 32-bit environment. If you're really diehard, you could boot the non-SP2 version, slipstream a new copy, and then install from that.

A few things to try out. - Set the BIOS to ACHI mode only and see what happens if you've got the drives configured independently. Try plugging only one drive in at a time. - Set the BIOS to RAID mode and configure the drives independently. Again, try one disk at a time. How did you slipstream the Intel Matrix drivers? Did you get the ones from here? (the 32-bit floppy configuration download) EDIT - Actually I just thought of something else. Have you tried a different optical drive? 0x7b indicates an inaccessible boot device, which would tell me that there's a problem with the device being booted from (in this case, a CD). There have been reported incompatibilities between some SATA DVD drives and chipsets configured in RAID mode.

So... I think the problem is with the switch. I tried using the other ethernet card on my motherboard - no dice. I tried using a PCI ethernet card. No dice. I tried using the DGS-1005D (the 5-port variant of the same switch), and it works beautifully. I tried plugging the devices into my WRT54GL, and it connects every time. I've contacted D-Link support for a replacement. The strangest part about all of this is that once my computers are connected to the switch, I'm able to consistently pull 990Mbps from one computer to the other... Thanks for all the help.

The motherboard has a PCI gigabit connection as well (the one I'm using is internal PCIe). I could give that a go. I've never really had any troubles with the 1394 connections before, but I'll try disabling it anyways.

I've got an 8-port 100Mbps Dlink switch (basically the older brother of my current switch) and the 5-port version as well. I'll give each of them a try later on tonight. I don't have any straight hubs available though...

I'm having a bit of a problem with my network setup at home and I was hoping some people might have some insight into this little dilemma. I'm using the following network equipment: Linksys WRT54GL (Tomato v1.13 firmware) D-Link DGS-1008D Marvell Yukon 88E8056 network adaptor (onboard on P5B Deluxe motherboard) 3ft Cat6 cable Windows XP SP2 for one system Windows Server 2003 SP2 for the other system My problem is intermittent, but annoying to no end. When I start up my systems (both have the same motherboard), there seems to be about a 50/50 chance of the system not properly connecting to the switch. The connectivity light on the switch will turn on during POST, and then turn off while Windows is booting. Once Windows starts up, it will turn on again, but then intermittently drop the connection again (Windows says "a network cable is unplugged"). In order to restore connectivity, I need to either disable and then re-enable the network connection, or physically unplug and replug the cable into either the switch or the motherboard (doesn't matter which). I've updated the network drivers on both machines and tried different ports on the switch. I was hoping that someone might be able to find a simple solution to this, short of buying some other piece of networking equipment.

This shouldn't really be used as a permanent solution. If the hardware and drivers are working properly, auto-sensing should properly account for any problems that might arise.

This might be a day old, but I just caught on to it... Arstechnica article Say goodbye to the quick and open-source MySQL....

Yes, downloading any software that isn't otherwise available for download via Bit Torrent is illegal. For Microsoft products, the only way that you can legally get the disc is from a licensed retailer (your computer store) or from Microsoft themselves. Honestly... ripken... I gave you the answer to that exact question just a few weeks ago. Hopefully we don't need to go over this again. Microsoft gives the option to legalize your pirated copy if you can tell them the organization that provided you with the disk (i.e. who tricked you). If you say to them that you downloaded the copy, and didn't know any better - you're up the creek without a paddle. @Grake - You can follow the instructions for the slipstreaming, provided that it's the 64-bit version of SP2 that you've downloaded. Slipstreaming 32-bit SP2 onto 64-bit XP doesn't make much sense now, does it? Otherwise, your MSDN subscription should provide you with an up-to-date version of XP x64.

I've never used the LogMeIn service since I only use Hamachi, but the basic functionality of Hamachi is the same in the free and premium versions. The premium version allows for more features, but won't stop you from doing what you want.

Hang on a second... he said that the computer was "not connected to the lan". I read this as "connected via the internet". Is the remote PC behind a router? You'll need to map ports in this case. My personal preference would be to use Hamachi to tunnel your connections. You'd run it on both the remote and local machines, and it would create a virtual network between the two allowing you the same functionality as you'd have if you were on the same LAN. Hamachi Homepage How to run Hamachi as a service in Windows XP

You should try stress testing your system to see if it's stable. There have been mixed feelings about the stock cooler when it comes to overclocking. Did you manage to reach 2.6Ghz on stock voltages? In my books, anything over 25% is a starting to get into a serious overclock (i.e. when you need to start being really careful). You might be able to hit 3Ghz with your CPU, but the question is whether or not you'll be able to do that without risking your equipment. I put together a package of standard testing tools to help you test for stability while overclocking. Download and install the package, and then load up Core Temp. It will tell you the true temperature of your two cores. Now start up Prime95 (select "just testing"), and then run a "blend" torture test. Watch your temperatures for the next 10 minutes. If they stay below 60 (some would say 65), you can leave the computer while the test continues. Let Prime95 run for about 6-8 hours. It will tell you if you've run into any problems. If you have, you need to go back and reconfigure your overclock. http://www.zxian.org/2008/01/11/computer-s...-testing-tools/

jcarle took the words out of my mouth. On a second note, the main performance boost that you get with Raptors is the access time. A 320GB 7200RPM drive will match the 74GB Raptor in terms of sustained transfer speed - an ability it picks up due to the high platter density of today's drives. For a system drive where speed is a priority, a second drive configured in RAID0 always justifies the cost. The hard drives in your system are almost always the bottleneck in terms of overall system performance, and they need all the help they can get.

There isn't too much point in SLI. The benefits don't really justify the extra cost of a second video card, and like you said, Intel based motherboards are more stable than nVidia's. I'd suggest getting the X38 if you've got the money to spare. Pair that up with a nice quad-core CPU, two drives in RAID0, and an 8800GT/GTS and you'll be off to the races.