jaclaz

@5247846 Have you noticed that I provided you in post #20 a link from which to download that floppy disc image? Of course, should you find that it is counterfeited you don't need to thank me. jaclaz

You READ the few posts before I pointed you to? and redo EVERYTHING from the beginning, this time actually READing and doing EXACTLY what the guide: http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html says. (and re-checking EVERYTHING) jaclaz

No prob. What I would do (if the idea is that of using drag 'n drop) would be to add provision for "real" drag 'n drop. I mean right now you need to: double click on the actual cmd file drag 'n drop the file on the actual cmd prompt window press [ENTER] to input the dropped filename What about a "dual usage" one, that still works like it does currently but that you can drag 'n drop a file to the actual .cmd file? Either of these would do: @echo off SETLOCAL ENABLEEXTENSIONS Title TrID File Identifier nircmd win settopmost title "TrID File Identifier" 1 2> nul IF %1.==. ( Echo Pls enter [full file path] / filename including it's extension below. Echo. Set /P file2check=File to check : ) ELSE ( Set file2check=%* ) Cls color A5 SET file2check=%file2check:"=% trid "%file2check%" -w @echo off SETLOCAL ENABLEEXTENSIONS Title TrID File Identifier nircmd win settopmost title "TrID File Identifier" 1 2> nul SET file2check=%* IF NOT DEFINED file2check CALL :Input Cls color A5 SET file2check=%file2check:"=% trid "%file2check%" -w GOTO :EOF :Input Echo Pls enter (full file path) / filename including it's extension below. Echo. Set /P file2check=File to check : GOTO :EOF jaclaz

What do you mean it's all over? Start again from the beginning. READ a few posts starting from here: d4m1 made that SAME mistake, re-did from scratch (he needed to cover the "other" set of contacts) and finally succeeded. jaclaz

Try this way: @echo off SETLOCAL ENABLEEXTENSIONS Title TrID File Identifier nircmd win settopmost title "TrID File Identifier" 1 2> nul Echo Pls enter (full file path) / filename including it's extension below. Echo. Set /P file2check=File to check : Cls color A5 SET file2check=%file2check:"=% trid "%file2check%" -w this should strip double quotes (if any) and re-add them when they are needed (and you need not type them on command line. jaclaz

Everything needed should be to add a couple of double quotes around "%file2check%" (that is for "drag 'n drop, besides typing) @echo off Title TrID File Identifier nircmd win settopmost title "TrID File Identifier" 1 2> nul Echo Pls enter (full file path) / filename including it's extension below. Echo. Set /P file2check=File to check : Cls color A5 trid "%file2check%" -w jaclaz

Sure . jaclaz

Wouldn't it be easier to fix the connector? I am pretty sure that no matter "how" you broke it, it is possible to fix it, one way or the other. jaclaz

The second you said. You have everything setup (PC booted), then you connect the converter, then you connect the HD power cable. The good news are that you need not further GROUNDING, as the GND of the PC PSU is connected through the USB to the converter and from it to the HD, and as well it is the same ground connected through the HD power cable. jaclaz

I doubt that Win 95 A Spanish will have dates/times July 11 1995, 9:50 AM as requested. You might have missed post # 16, he WAS there (and came here, after having hassled a bit the guys over there with no result). Anyway, my post (#20) contains what the asked for, result of 15 minutes of googleing, let's see what happens now, maybe the fact that the floppy uses a modified DRVCOPY.INF to load TEAC_CDI.SYS will make it "counterfeited" For no apparent reason, a LOLCAT: jaclaz

@104 Have you checked, double checked and triple checked the settings for speed/parity, etc? That is point #9 of read-me-first: I hope that the pictures are taken after you have removed the SATA power connector for the disk that WAS there (and powered) when you attempted the Ctrl+Z. Though it is probably NOT the case, do re-read, this time slowly, the point about GROUNDING (that will be point #7): WHAT are you using to power the drive? Like: a connector from the PSU of the SAME PC that you have the USB/TTL converter connected another PC PSU another "external drive" power supply jaclaz

Your google-fu is definitely low. Here, kid , take my hand and I'll help you cross the road... http://www.intercompuaction.nl/dl/ http://wayback.archive.org/web/*/http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/pm.kramer/dl/W95old.exe http://web.archive.org/web/20040307140006/http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/pm.kramer/dl/W95old.exe jaclaz

With all due respect, not really "news". See here: After all we could add this bit of info on the read-me-first and FGA's : adding to the list the CA-53 jaclaz

Another happy bunny in the basket : http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128727&st=10 jaclaz

Sure: http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html You have nothing to loose in trying, if one set of contacts does not work on your drive, try the other. jaclaz

Is it not, by any chance a ES2 drive? jaclaz

No, it is actually RECOMMENDED to do the power cycle wayting at least sixty seconds BEFORE going to F3 T> level. It is NOT RECOMMENDED to power down the drive AFTER the F3 T>m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 (enter) BEFORE *enough* time is elapsed (i.e. while the command is still executing). This *enough* time can be measured in (from reports, most of which completely void of *any* actual realiability ) *anything* between 10 seconds and 1 or more hours. More supposedly reliable reports give a max at around 10 minutes, so, after 15 minutes it's OK to power down the drive and re-do from where you should have powered it down initially. jaclaz

Define "fresh". jaclaz

Yep. Remember GROUNDING (point #7 of read-me-first). Let's hope that only the low battery voltage is the problem in your case. jaclaz

Have you already submittted it here? http://www.hijackthis.de/ Make SURE you UNcheck the checkbox for "Show the visitors ratings", as those rating are more often than not compromising the otherwise good detection capabilities of the analisys. Mind you that whatever gets a red cross or a question mark, not necessarily is a problem, only something you should further investigate upon. And no , everything is NOT ok, it seems like you have at least quite a few missing files. jaclaz

Well, use *anything* else that provides around 3.3 V cc, then. Last time I checked a PC PSU, for the record, it did have a connector going to the motherboard, as in the given picture: http://jwenet.net/notebook/2005/1161.html (and not to a "sealed SATA" thingy) and I could easily insert a wire with first centimeter or so of the insulation stripped off with the connector actually connected to the motherboard. If you have a spare PC PSU, you can use the "bent paperclip" trick (or a short piece of wire) to turn it on: http://www.dansdata.com/danletters020.htm Or maybe you can get your hands on a ATX Y splitter? Example (NOT cheap): http://www.atxpowersupplies.com/atx-20-pin-y-splitter.php jaclaz

The issue is NOT about "ignorance", it is about "refusing to listen" or "refusing to read and learn". BEFORE asking for help, you bought an RS232 to TTL adapter to be coupled to a USB to RS232 one. ( which is NOT the "best" choice). Then you started asking help about it (and EACH and EVERY time you were pointed to where that SAME question was ALREADY answered and easily accessible). This is Ok and fine for first question or two of them, as you might have not found the stickies in the Forum, but going on and on? I am used to people that when told (TWICE) to "use 3.3V" or to "use 3.3V orange cable", if they cannot find a way to get 3.3 V, after having read the given resources/answers whatever, specifically: or if they don't understand what is ALREADY written, ask for clarification, WITHOUT proposing they can use Red instead. Here: http://jwenet.net/notebook/2005/1161.html Rest assured that a standard PC PSU does have an orange wire and that it is at 3.3 V cc. To further clear the reason why I am shouting at you, it is because you are hiding behind the "I am no expert in electronics " excuse, which is m00t, if you were an expert an electronics you wouldn't be here, but the tutorials, this thread, the read-me-first and the FGA's seemingly made hundreds, maybe thousands of non-electronic-experts succeed. The questions they made, and the answers they got represent EXPERIENCE that is shared with everyone. Since ALWAYS the SAME questions were made, we attempted to reduce the number of new memebrs re-asking them by giving the ANSWERS to those recurring questions (with the side effect of - having spent lots of time in writing those - to save some in trying to help in this thread). It is only too bad, this plan doesn't work because people simply ignore what is ALREADY written. jaclaz

Can't you READ the read-me-first (again and again)? This would be point #11. Red is 5V! You DO NOT want to power that adapter at 5V. The whole idea of spending time to write that read-me-first was to avoid senseless posts like yours added to the preseent thread! jaclaz

You read the docs? Here: http://driverpacks.net/docs jaclaz

Really? Yes and No. http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/hardware/gg463525.aspx jaclaz