Gradius2

Slowing will do no good, since Seagate 7200.11 uses 38400 8 N 1 by default (factory). To change speed he will need to enter a cmd @ 38400 on Seagate to slow to 9600 on Seagate first, then, and only then, he will be able to use 9600 (by configuring the PC to 9600).

I did posted a fully how to about how to extract the .ISO, but that was done when the forum has some problems, and I guess that msg was lost (sigh). To extract the ISO just open it with 7-Zip, then extract inside BOOT folder this file: Bootable_1.44M.img Then you can open .img with your Power ISO, or Ultra ISO, etc, the file you want is .ZIP. You can then boot from a bootable pendrive with just .exe and .lod on it. An example for flashing: fdl462b -m Moose -f SD1A3D4D.LOD -i ST3750330AS -s -x -b -v -a 20 That link (from my site) above is to force flashing to SD1A. It will only works on Moose family. However they are different from SD1A posted by Seagate 1 or 2 days after they released another SD1A.

O seu problema é simples, ou é mau contato, ou os fios que vc está usando são muito finos, ou o terra deles é mal feito, ocasionando o lixo na serial. Verifique os cabos, é algum problema neles. --- I would blame the wires, it's a contact problem, or poor GND, or too long wires, or some interference, etc. Just verify them and retry.

On the bright side, how many "Autovelox", "Speed Cameras" or similar Speed checking devices of the last generation went beserk, lowering the chances of you getting fined? Another way : http://gizmodo.com/5069422/the-muppets-ani...ng-police-crazy jaclaz LOL! Very funny, nice find!

Those old days reminds me of "conversions" thru firmware patches (ie. Liteon SOHW-812S to Liteon 832S). That makes me wonder if it's possible to convert/flash a ST3500320AS to ST3500320NS (Enterprise) using firmware SN06C (or ST31000340AS to ST31000340NS). It's perfectly possible to do such thing (ASM makes the impossible, possible), however IF the hardware aren't the same (and I hope so) then you're just putting a new name for your HDD. Since they call those drives as "Enterprise" they must be from better components and parts, otherwise the company would be doing some "dirty underground play" asking more for the very same thing, except the name (label and firmware).

You'll need to check the flasher (.exe) program. Stable release is FDL456b.exe, bad one is FDL456.exe. Used FDL457.exe to force a downgrade.

@PrOfiLer If you're having too much problem with that cable, it doesn't hurt to spend $10 (or less) on a simpler adapter.

Flamewar is only good to spend time.

Are you using IDE Extended (or enhanced) only ? Do not use RAID or AHCI. Also the drive is alone? No other is connected, except CD/DVD drive? Funny and sad at same time.

Sure no problem. Another happy $eagate user.

When you change PCBs, they never are the same, even if they match in P/N and model, every PCB has variables, the same goes to HDAs. For example, lets says PCB_1 delivers at 0.18ms XN command, while PCB_2 will delivers a XY command and at 0.12ms. Trying to fix doing pcb swap method is based on luck (no kidding). In simple words: You're trying to jump from the car while going in high speed.

You power off for just 10sec: At this step you'll need to POWER OFF your HD for 10sec, and then POWER ON again. By power off, remove the SATA power (not PCB!). So, you turn off for 10sec, then turn on again, before i4... cmd.

It might work, but you need to contact them to checking out which is the output voltage on TTL lines (TX & RX). Shouldn't be above +5V DC, ideal would be +3.3V DC max. About 7~18V it means it accept power supply from 7 until 18V: http://www.bizchip.com/170200006.pdf

This is why I told to you guys, that method (swapping PCBs) is way too risky. Well, if the drive is still recognized by BIOS, try to re-flash the "good" one, if even after that you get the same result, then yes, you killed the drive.

Well, the soldering part is really a kiddy stuff (very easy), at least to me.

OUCHHHH! You're crazy !! 340 means 4 (four) plates and heads, and 333 means 3 (three) plates and heads, you might fry the PCB, or HDA or both ! Plus, you can scratch the platers, if that happens, you'll lost the HD forever.

This is why I said... the new Seagate's philosophy is: Look at case of CC1F, we want the most updated firmware, like CC1J, what they do? Nothing, they just ignore us !

It will works, the IC is inside the USB connector, choose TTL-232R 3V3 model. Here is the IC, this is the PCB version: http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/DataShee...2R_PCB_V100.pdf

Should works. Device RD: RX Device TD: TX Don't forget to press CTRL+Z otherwise you might get nothing.

USB to TTL will do just fine. After all USB is a (universal) serial (bus) interface too. Use +5V max, recommendable is +3.0~3.3V DC. I did used an USB > RS232 (for my notebook) adapter to RS232 > TTL adapter. Works just perfect.

CE is when you didn't do the correct trick with spin motor (check my direct guide). ok, thanks ich have attempt a few times, yes it works i see my data thanks a million too help us. Sure, no problem.

CE is when you didn't do the correct trick with spin motor (check my direct guide). Actually it goes, I tried that well before RS232 to TTL solution (2 weeks ago or more), and didn't work, so I give up and buyed the adapter instead. I must confess that drive never was the same after that (and I only did for around 10sec), it does some strange sounds in a while. I trully don't recommend this method, is like the mechanicals parts inside were forced, besides is playing with luck because the heads can always scratch the plates at that crucial moment. Is too risky only to avoid $20 (or less) bucks.

Is possible to see if TX (from Seagate) to RX (on PC) is fine. BSY or CC errors aren't detected by BIOS. This guide is the solution for CC or BSY errors, and 0 LBA errors. CC and BSY are "critical" since you lost the access to the drive at POST, meaning you cannot even see your HDD anymore. Until you cannot see your HDD, it will be impossible to perform an update by flashing. Only fixing CC or BSY errors will let you to see (at POST moment) your HDD again, and upgrade it by flashing with the correct firmware. I don't recommend this method, the reading/writing HEAD goes crazy and can kill the platters by scratching them.

If you cannot enter CMDs it means the TX (from PC) to RX (Seagate) is bad, verify the cables, double or triple check. Keep in mind, for BSY errors, you need to disconnect the Spin motor, or the drive will enter in that state (in around 2 secs) after it occurs you cannot enter anything, not even CTRL+Z. Just removing the screw(s) will not works, you need to isolate the contacts with something (I used a card paper).

Stated very clearly and openly on the update page... * Note: If your drive has CC or LC firmware, your drive is not affected and no further action is required. Attempting to flash the firmware of a drive with CC or LC firmware will result in rendering your drive inoperable. LOL, and you still believe on them? Just unbelievable ! On old days (back in 2000) I used to hack firmwares for Pioneer burners (DVR-Axx family) as you can see here: http://gradius.rpc1.org You're 100% right, they always fix something, improves stability and speed, on newer firmwares. The biggest issue I'm getting with CC1F is access time, way too high, they're 15.6ms on my 1TBs HDDs, while the normal would be 12.5ms or less (I get that on my 750GBs).