Vitalix

Hi guys (and gals), I just recently built my PC together using a G41 chipset board. Loaded all the drivers, all my software, everything is gravy. Recently found an awesome deal on a refurb XFX SLI board (I have a GTX460 and would like to option of just getting a second down the line). So essentially, is it possible to pre-load all of the nVidia 780i SATA/PATA drivers in my Win7 install and then just swap boards? I know I will likely have to re-activate Windows, but I'm ok with that. What I'd like to avoid is reloading everything from scratch (since I just did that a week ago). Should I just download all the drivers, right-click every INF file I can find and install before the swap? I'm not sure if the EXE file that comes with the drivers will work as it will not detect the nvidia chipset as its running, trying to find a way around it so I can just swap and play. Or am I asking for trouble, as it's new hardware (in particular SLI), should I just bite the bullet and install from scratch? Thanks in advance as always!

Hi guys and gals, We just acquired a company and would like to setup a different password policy for the new crew. I created a new OU for them and would like to set a different password policy. The default password for policy (DPP) for our domain is fairly open as we are a small company. We would like stronger passwords for the new OU. When I create a new GPO with the stronger settings, since the settings for passwords are in the computer configurations rather than the user, it seems like the GPO only sets the password properties for the machines LOCALLY, rather than domain accounts. Tried using block inheritance, hoping it would change the domain accounts, but no such luck. When I change a password, any password is fine. If I try to change a LOCAL password on the machine, then I get prompt for complexity. For the domain, is the only option I have to change the DPP for processing domain passowrds? Thanks in advance as always! Vitaly

Actually I found the fix, it's not DNS at all! Rather Win2K and 2K3 are not set to 'listen' on the SMB for alternate DNS aliases other than their configured AD name. There is a registry entry that must be entered, and after that everything works great! Just in case others may encounter this, the known issue is listed on Microsoft's site here.

Hey guys and gals, We have a Win 2K3 server with 3 NICs installed. The subnets are 192.168.50.X, 70.X, and 40.X, all class C. The reason we want those 3 to hit those subnets is that we have a gigabit connection to each of the subnets from the server. The name of the server is Atlas and it is in AD on the 50 subnet (registered in DNS). What I tried to do in DNS is add an entry for each subnet, for example, Atlas50, Atlas70, and Atlas40 for the the three subnets. The problem is anytime I try to map a drive to any AtlasXX, it doesn't work! Says I got a duplicate name on the network! If I map to Atlas itself, it works, but then I run across the 50 subnet and lose gigabit and take extra hops through routers from the 40 and 70 subnets. Is there any way I can setup Atlas so that it can be accessed from each of the subnets using separate DNS? Thanks in advance as always! EDIT: Changed thread title. Please follow the rules!

Hey guys and gals, We have a Win 2K3 server with 3 NICs installed. The subnets are 192.168.50.X, 70.X, and 40.X, all class C. The reason we want those 3 to hit those subnets is that we have a gigabit connection to each of the subnets from the server. The name of the server is Atlas and it is in AD on the 50 subnet (registered in DNS). What I tried to do in DNS is add an entry for each subnet, for example, Atlas50, Atlas70, and Atlas40 for the the three subnets. The problem is anytime I try to map a drive to any AtlasXX, it doesn't work! Says I got a duplicate name on the network! If I map to Atlas itself, it works, but then I run across the 50 subnet and lose gigabit and take extra hops through routers from the 40 and 70 subnets. Is there any way I can setup Atlas so that it can be accessed from each of the subnets using separate DNS? Thanks in advance as always!

Hey all, Just fired up an Intel 531 (3.0GHz) CPU in an Aopen EX915 chassis I got on Ebay (paid $200 for both). Threw in a X800XL card for some gaming and a SATA drive. Nice little system, but holy cr@p does it get hot! I'm used to my Athlon64 idling at 29C and 48C at full load after hours. This thing is 54C idle and hits 76C at load running 3DMark05! Craziness. Shooting the fan up to full drops the idle to about 42C, but load is still at 65C. Sound like a server at that level. Do people on this forum have any of the 5x1 series Pentiums (the EM64T models)? Are they all that hot? Also, Windows 64 is truly disappointing. Explorer runs pretty quick, as does some zipping and unzipping, but no driver support anywhere, for like anything! Can't run Call of Duty 2, can't even load the Realtek Audio drivers. Far Cry has the x64 patch, but thaz all I could find. Back to XP 32 bit, the tried and tested.

Not sure. I know the Geil One W, Mushkin Redline, and TwinMOS Twister used the Winbond BH-5 UTT chips, but there may be others I don't know of. XTREEM (according to google at least) seems like it is popular in Europe and trying to make a presence here. If they are BH5 chips, I'd really like to get a new set only b/c of the voltage that runs through them, would like the warranty in case they fry. I believe the Mushkin Extreme use Samsung TCC5, but I'm not positive. My only fear with Ebay is that I get the blades, one of them fries, I goto XTREEM for warranty, and then they say Ebay is not an authorized seller. As much as I'd like to try BH5, I have to admit that the OCZ TCCD chips I have are pretty steady 2.5-4-4-7 at 270FSB running only 2.7V. I am going to try to take them higher, they are on a 9/10 divider right now.

Hey all, I got my DFI Lanparty SLI-DR last week and am putting it through its paces. I finally hit 300HTT/FSB today. Anyone here with DFI boards? How high did you guys take it before coming back down? Afraid to get greedy after 300 barrier and fry somthing. TIA as always!

Hey guys and gals, On Ebay, I found Xtreem sticks (never heard of them). Evidently they are big in Europe, and b/c they are UTT BH-5 they can run 2-2-2-5 @ 280FSB w/ 3.5V a la Mushkin Redline. Ebay has them for $160 for a 2x512 kit. Has anyone ever used this brand? I'm hesitant to try. Thanks in advance as always!

The Ballisitx I have run warm, but they are at 270FSB. If you overclock your CPU, and do not run a memory divider, guess what, you are overclocking your memory. My DFI just hit 300 on the FSB, but my TCCD OCZ Plat Rev-2 memory cannot keep up, it is divided at 265MHz right now. AT stock, they are cool to the touch. At 265, they are quite warm, not quite hot. They are at 2.7V. Biggest cause of heat is voltage. Check your processes too, are you running something memory intensive in the background?

My friend has the Gigabyte Aurora, and he adores it. It also comes with an optional water cooling kit designed specifically for it. IMHO, Newegg is the authority on cases, and here is a list of the their full towers.

I've actually been hunting BH-5 for a good part of the last 2 months (now that I got my DFI board), but can't find anything for under $200 on ebay for a 2x512 kit. The Mushkin Redlines, OCZ Gold Vx, even the Twinmos Twisters are at a crazy premium right now, b/c they are no longer made.

Try 2 things first: Flash the motherboard to a different revision - or did this happen just 'one day'? Also, try the card on a different mobo, just to rule out that it's a problem with the AGP port or the motherboard. Also, flashing the card won't hurt, if it's bad, it will be bad after the flash. Can you tell me the part number and manufacturer of the card?

The top end cases are by Lian Li. I have an NZXT Lexa which I adore! Antec makes some really good ones. UR getting a separate PSU right?

Nice! No motherboard? Everything is just suspended in the case? What type of OCZ? Let me know your take on the Thermalright, thinking about getting it, my DFI just crossed 295HTT and I am afraid to go higher without better cooing (stock HSF on my X2 for now). I like the Big Typhoon, but don't want to take the mobo out to put it on.

What were your final specs for the machine?

Sweet! Ya got any pics? Ya gonna overclock? What do u have in that thing again?

I know this might sound silly, but are you recording from the line-in or from the microphone jack? The mic jack is extremely sensitive and will pick up oodles of grounding noise if the sensitivity is set too high. If you are coming in the line-in, it should sound as it does on the TV. Remember that video tapes are analog, and will have a little noise to them, just nature of the medium.

It depends what you use memory for. If you consider having a computer for a long bout of internet explorer, followed by some Excel workouts, and then a strong finsh with Solitaire, there is nothing wrong with generic Value-Ram. As soon as you try to raise your FSB/HTT to like 205, your generic RAM will fail. For those who do not game, and timings and/or bandwidth are not issues. To the person who posted about Samsung being good and everything else being resold, I disagree. Samsung makes rebranded RAM for other manufacturers. Ever buy a Wal-Mart or Target brand bottled water? It's still made by Dasani. Awful comparison, I know, but it doesn't mean that Target bottled water is contaminated. In addition, Samsung's TCCD and TCC5 chips are well known, but Infineon and Winbond make excellent chips (in particular Winbond's BH-5, which rock the Geil ONE W series and Mushkin's legendary Redline series). You can talk about UTT's weaknesses and what they are all you want, but bottom line, feed them 3.4V and they sing at 2-2-2-5 at 280FSB! U just need an A8N or SLI-DR board to do it. Try and take your Samsung to 2-2-2 at 280FSB and get ready to turn off your fire detectors. For my money, I buy only OCZ an Mushkin, although I have a pair Crucial Ballistix PC4000 (sweet deal on Ebay) that are rocking 270FSB at present, so ultimately YMMV, but so far I had good success with them personally. The name brands tend to have better support teams as well. Bottom line: If you game or have AMD, you need fast timing RAM (e.g. PC3200 at 2-2-2-5). If you do apps or have Intel, you need high bandwidth RAM e.g. (PC4000 at 2.5-3-3-7). You need to go a step further when buying RAM and get the right type. Crucial's 2-2-2-5 PC3200 is better than OCZ's Premier PC3200 @ 2.5-3-3-7.

One other item to try: right-click My Computer ~> select Properties ~> Click the Advanced tab ~> click Settings under Performance ~> click Adjust for best performance. This will turn off some of the eye candy which is unnecessary at low memory levels. Worth a try at least. I do it to my laptops. They actually run a lot smoother.

Generally the bulk of the heat is from the CPU, so you want that last in your ventilation trail. If you intake from the rear, you will blow the warm air from the CPU throughout the motherboard. Generally, you want the same pressure in and out. The warm air will swirl in the top of the case if not. Also, the HD is usually right in front, so the case fan actually cools the HD(s) pretty good.

If you skip the case fan, I'd leave the cover off so the heat dissipates better. I wouldn't run it for very long periods of time tho. Are u talking intake case fan or exhaust case fan? Or any case fan?

Here is the link for it. It says 115VAC/230VAC - frequency 47-63Hz. Should be good, right?

Anyone know from experience? Selling a PC on Ebay and just got hit with that question. There is a fuse on the back of the PSU that reads 115/230, but not sure if that's it. Anyone ever try? Thanks in advance as always!

Do you have thumbnail previews on? If you have MPEGs or picture or anything in there, it will try to render them when you first open. Once rendered, the CPU will go down, if you have thumbnails enabled.