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Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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Now, it is NOT about level of power going in, it's about TTL voltage level getting out.

Read the post I linked you to.

Read the link in it:

http://www.interfacebus.com/voltage_threshold.html

Check the specs of your interface, connect it wisely. ;)

I personally doubt that on a USB to TTL interface the good engineers who made it wrote "USB to RS232", but of course everything is possible. :unsure:

Where did you buy it?

Are the specs of that interface available online?

jaclaz

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It is possible that besides the bricking problem your drive suffers from other problems you should run the Seagate Diagnostic Tools on it and report (again in ANOTHER thread).

jaclaz

You're right. With an ubuntu live cd, i finally got access to the hdd.

Thanks again!

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Now, it is NOT about level of power going in, it's about TTL voltage level getting out.

Read the post I linked you to.

Read the link in it:

http://www.interfacebus.com/voltage_threshold.html

Check the specs of your interface, connect it wisely. ;)

I personally doubt that on a USB to TTL interface the good engineers who made it wrote "USB to RS232", but of course everything is possible. :unsure:

Where did you buy it?

Are the specs of that interface available online?

jaclaz

I bought that on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250399285596&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:US:1123

The specs on the ad:

USB TO TTL Converter Module

Description:

# Built-in USB to RS232 Transfer chip.

# Designed to be used for USB to TTL electronic projects.

# TTL interface output, easy to connect to your MCU.

# Power LED.

# Dual 3.3V and 5V Power output, work with 3.3v and 5v target device.

# Compact design.

# Dimension: 41 mm x 15 mm

It has 3.3v and 5v power output, i think that if i connect the usb to 3.3v it will give 3.3v out and if i connect usb to 5v it will get 5v out, doesn't it?

I don't know very much about this so i appreciate help very much!!

Would it be better to connect the USB to 3.3v?

Thanks, thanks, thanks!

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I start to think that it is a different inteface, does it have a CP 2102 chip? :unsure:

https://www.silabs.com/Support%20Documents/TechnicalDocs/cp2102.pdf

It should be similar in concept to this one:

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8531

It has to be checked if the one you have is configured to be powered from the USB bus (and you can DRAW power OUT of the +5V or +3.3V lines ) or if it is a "passive" interface and needs to INPUT power FROM either the +5V or the +3.3V.

It should be similar to this, and powered from the USB connector:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/391

if you WITHOUT ANY CABLE connected to it, attach it to a USB port you should be able with a multimeter to read 5 V between +5V and Ground and 3.3V between +3.3V and Ground

EDIT:

Affirmative, I reviewed the thingy, it is powered from the USB connector:

# Dual 3.3V and 5V Power output, work with 3.3v and 5v target device.

Thus, you need to connect to it ONLY three cables:

  1. Tx on board ->Rx on hard disk
  2. Rx on board ->Tx on hard disk
  3. GND on board ->GND on hard disk

Please note that if you have problems like "random characters" in Hyperterminal, GND should also be connected to any of the GND cables coming from the power supply which is powering the HD.

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz

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I start to think that it is a different inteface, does it have a CP 2102 chip? :unsure:

https://www.silabs.com/Support%20Documents/TechnicalDocs/cp2102.pdf

It should be similar in concept to this one:

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8531

It has to be checked if the one you have is configured to be powered from the USB bus (and you can DRAW power OUT of the +5V or +3.3V lines ) or if it is a "passive" interface and needs to INPUT power FROM either the +5V or the +3.3V.

It should be similar to this, and powered from the USB connector:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/391

if you WITHOUT ANY CABLE connected to it, attach it to a USB port you should be able with a multimeter to read 5 V between +5V and Ground and 3.3V between +3.3V and Ground

EDIT:

Affirmative, I reviewed the thingy, it is powered from the USB connector:

# Dual 3.3V and 5V Power output, work with 3.3v and 5v target device.

Thus, you need to connect to it ONLY three cables:

  1. Tx on board ->Rx on hard disk
  2. Rx on board ->Tx on hard disk
  3. GND on board ->GND on hard disk

Please note that if you have problems like "random characters" in Hyperterminal, GND should also be connected to any of the GND cables coming from the power supply which is powering the HD.

jaclaz

I confirm what you thought, it's powered from the usb.

Thanks a lot for your help jaclaz!!! You are my hero!!! hehe!!

Thanks, thanks, thanks!!

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Since my 2/25/2010 post, I've scoured about and seen a few comments noting terminal responses of "small arrows" but none (so far) of the "beta character" I received in response to the N1 (S.M.A.R.T. erase & creation of S.M.A.R.T. sector).

Does anyone have any information on these responses to terminal commands or recommendations of additional places to research?

Note that these are received from a properly connected HDD (connections were not changed between expected responses and these 'odd' responses). My 2/25/2010 post displays the overall terminal session with a screenshot in the case of the beta character since the overall session translated it to an accented a character.

At this point I am contemplating an attempt to hook the drive back up via USB to assess if it is noted in BIOS, though I doubt it would be based on the small arrow response to the CTRL-Z terminal command. I have refrained from further terminal commands or operation in hopes I could find additional information on beta character responses to the N1 command and the small arrow response. So, at this point additional input would be most appreciated. Thanks.

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Since my 2/25/2010 post, I've scoured about and seen a few comments noting terminal responses of "small arrows" but none (so far) of the "beta character" I received in response to the N1 (S.M.A.R.T. erase & creation of S.M.A.R.T. sector).

Does anyone have any information on these responses to terminal commands or recommendations of additional places to research?

Note that these are received from a properly connected HDD (connections were not changed between expected responses and these 'odd' responses). My 2/25/2010 post displays the overall terminal session with a screenshot in the case of the beta character since the overall session translated it to an accented a character.

At this point I am contemplating an attempt to hook the drive back up via USB to assess if it is noted in BIOS, though I doubt it would be based on the small arrow response to the CTRL-Z terminal command. I have refrained from further terminal commands or operation in hopes I could find additional information on beta character responses to the N1 command and the small arrow response. So, at this point additional input would be most appreciated. Thanks.

Well you can do one of two or both.

1. Go through the process again hopefully this time, not getting any weird Greek letters.

2. Go ahead and plug it into the computer to see if it is recognized.

At this point, I do not see any of these 2 approaches as damaging your hdd, IMHO. I'd personally go for #1 just to make sure that everything worked properly.

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Hello

i'm new of this forum.

I'm italian graphic designer and i have three years of my work on a seagate barracuda 7200.11 (st3500820as - firmware sd25).

The hard disk in block and return I/O error and error 1117 error.

This guide is for me? Can i recover my data?

Thans a lot.

ps. the hd make a little click sound and sometimes the pc seen it as 0 gb and somethimes 2 TB.

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Hello

i'm new of this forum.

I'm italian graphic designer and i have three years of my work on a seagate barracuda 7200.11 (st3500820as - firmware sd25).

The hard disk in block and return I/O error and error 1117 error.

This guide is for me? Can i recover my data?

Thans a lot.

ps. the hd make a little click sound and sometimes the pc seen it as 0 gb and somethimes 2 TB.

somebody help me?

Can i use this guide for my st3500820as hard disk whith firmaware sd25?

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I start to think that it is a different inteface, does it have a CP 2102 chip? :unsure:

https://www.silabs.com/Support%20Documents/TechnicalDocs/cp2102.pdf

It should be similar in concept to this one:

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8531

It has to be checked if the one you have is configured to be powered from the USB bus (and you can DRAW power OUT of the +5V or +3.3V lines ) or if it is a "passive" interface and needs to INPUT power FROM either the +5V or the +3.3V.

It should be similar to this, and powered from the USB connector:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/391

if you WITHOUT ANY CABLE connected to it, attach it to a USB port you should be able with a multimeter to read 5 V between +5V and Ground and 3.3V between +3.3V and Ground

EDIT:

Affirmative, I reviewed the thingy, it is powered from the USB connector:

# Dual 3.3V and 5V Power output, work with 3.3v and 5v target device.

Thus, you need to connect to it ONLY three cables:

  1. Tx on board ->Rx on hard disk
  2. Rx on board ->Tx on hard disk
  3. GND on board ->GND on hard disk

Please note that if you have problems like "random characters" in Hyperterminal, GND should also be connected to any of the GND cables coming from the power supply which is powering the HD.

jaclaz

I confirm what you thought, it's powered from the usb.

Thanks a lot for your help jaclaz!!! You are my hero!!! hehe!!

Thanks, thanks, thanks!!

I have already fixed my HD, thanks to all of you, specially JACLAZ!!

One last question, this solution works for all kind of Seagate HD's with firmware SD15??

Thanks again!!

Thanks Jaclaz!

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I have already fixed my HD, thanks to all of you, specially JACLAZ!!

One last question, this solution works for all kind of Seagate HD's with firmware SD15??

Thanks again!!

Thanks Jaclaz!

I am not sure to understand the question.

AFAIK the SD15 is specific to 7200.11 family (and corresponding Maxtor ones).

Most Seagate HD's will have the same (or a similar) "internal language" and TTL connection, possibly at a different BAUD rate for older models, but there can be several reasons why a drive is bricked or however not functioning, and this thread is not a "heal 'em all miracle cure", it is specific to a model and to the two described type of problems.

Happy to know there is yet another happy bunny around :):

http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128727&st=10

@bip

Take it easy, man, noone is hear specifically to help you within a 5 hour timeframe. :)

Try reading the above and this post:

http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128807&st=2367

This thread is about solving TWO problems (and these two ONLY):

  1. 0LBA
  2. BSY

Read the first post of the thread, and check if what you are experiencing is #1 or #2.

If it is not #1 or #2 as described there, then NO, unfortunately this guide is NOT for you. :(

jaclaz

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I have already fixed my HD, thanks to all of you, specially JACLAZ!!

One last question, this solution works for all kind of Seagate HD's with firmware SD15??

Thanks again!!

Thanks Jaclaz!

I am not sure to understand the question.

AFAIK the SD15 is specific to 7200.11 family (and corresponding Maxtor ones).

Most Seagate HD's will have the same (or a similar) "internal language" and TTL connection, possibly at a different BAUD rate for older models, but there can be several reasons why a drive is bricked or however not functioning, and this thread is not a "heal 'em all miracle cure", it is specific to a model and to the two described type of problems.

Happy to know there is yet another happy bunny around :):

http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128727&st=10

jaclaz

As SD15 is especific for 7200.11 Seagate family and Maxtor, I was asking if it works for all hd's independently from it's capacity (500, 750 gb, 1tb...)

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As SD15 is especific for 7200.11 Seagate family and Maxtor, I was asking if it works for all hd's independently from it's capacity (500, 750 gb, 1tb...)

Yes, b/c it is a firmware issue, not a capacity issue.

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Hello

i'm new of this forum.

I'm italian graphic designer and i have three years of my work on a seagate barracuda 7200.11 (st3500820as - firmware sd25).

The hard disk in block and return I/O error and error 1117 error.

This guide is for me? Can i recover my data?

Thans a lot.

ps. the hd make a little click sound and sometimes the pc seen it as 0 gb and somethimes 2 TB.

somebody help me?

Can i use this guide for my st3500820as hard disk whith firmaware sd25?

Though I'm not a data recovery expert by any means, I've seen & heard enough drives fail for various reasons to say there are a few general rules of thumb/steps that I keep in mind...

(1) All hard drives fail at some point.

(2) When they do it will likely be at the worst possible moment.

(3) The FIRST thing to do with a drive that is behaving strangely (viewable one time, not the next, etc.) is to DO *NOTHING* with it!

Do not run tests as these may use the last useful access you have to a drive.

-- Drive Sounds --

If the drive is making ODD SOUNDS, this is NOT a good sign.

It can mean that as the drive is running the head may also be scraping the platters holding your data -- and in the process making it totally unreadable (to anyone including data recovery experts). The sooner you stop using it, the better and the more likely you will have data that can be retrieved. Running the drive or doing tests won't help, instead it will make things worse. If the sounds are ODD for the drive, skip the next step and figure it will require some sort of physical recovery.

(4) Get your data off the misbehaving drive.

Either power down or connect another drive and get your most important data backed up FIRST.

( a ) Copy your Key Data Only

Start with your key data (not your OS or stuff you can re-install) but your business files -- financial, creative, things that you cannot reproduce.

- AND/OR -

( b ) Do an image of the failing drive.

After getting your important data off do an image of the failing drive.

This will allow you to have a copy of the data to work with if the data fails and leaves you without access.

(5) Setup your system again without using the failing drive.

If you can do this, set your failing drive aside to work with (and recover anything else you had) at your leisure instead of when you are busy with other business things. That way, if it can be repaired you can do so without time pressure which can result in mistakes.

(6) BACKUP, BACKUP, BACKUP!

Set up your backup system. You don't want to go through this again. After you're back in operation, do it first so you have a backup.

Regular backups are your friend. Whether that's another HDD or DVD or tape.

Having your important data in 2 places (at least) gives you an opportunity to recover when a drive fails.

(7) Figure out if you can recover the failing drive.

These are not hard & fast, but certainly something to keep in mind.

IMHO if you have years of important data on that drive, your first order of business would be to back it up by getting it OFF the failing drive -- but ONLY IF the drive sounds are normal. Be mindful that you may have only one shot to do this! So have everything ready before you power that drive back up. If you're doing a drive image have enough space to do the copy both on your OS HDD and the drive you're copying to.

If you have odd sounds, don't mess with it further as you may be ruining your data. A data recovery service may be able to help. One resource you may find helpful is a fellow by the name of Scott Moulton who runs courses and does data recovery (Google the name). I'm not affiliated but he provides some very helpful information (including YouTube videos) on general HDD data recovery. [The resource might be of interest to many on this thread. He has recovery services/courses at myharddrivedied.com ]

Sorry to sound negative here, but what you do next is important.

Others with experience with this particular firmware can certainly shed more light on your situation. For me, the sound aspect is very concerning, though it's hard to tell if 'little click' is the normal head positioning or something more sinister.

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(6) BACKUP, BACKUP, BACKUP!

Set up your backup system. You don't want to go through this again. After you're back in operation, do it first so you have a backup.

Regular backups are your friend. Whether that's another HDD or DVD or tape.

Having your important data in 2 places (at least) gives you an opportunity to recover when a drive fails.

Corollary:

In case you have any doubt about the meaning of the above, BACKUP! NOW! ;)

@bip

From a general standpoint, thus NOT necessarily applying to your particular case, a number of drives failing with a repetitive clicking sound can often be recovered by using professional tools, as they simply somehow "lost" some needed data.

The reviving is, again generally speaking, not at the level of knowledge of an hobbyist and needs very expensive tools, that are usually not worth the investment for anything but a number of drives (we are talking of tools in the US$3,000 to US$10,000 range). :ph34r:

The problem, without having seen the behaviour of the drive - and I seem to gather from your post that it is an "intermittent" problem of some kind, is that it is even difficult to give you some advice.

On a mechanical "sound" drive, performing properly any of the fixes detailed in this thread won't do any harm, BUT we don't know which kind of problem you are actually having, so, better be safe than sorry and leave it alone.

If you have three years of your work on that drive, I guess you should be VERY careful with the idea of messing with it.

A simple triage method:

  1. Is the data on the drive worth more than a couple thousand US$ to me? (no matter if actual commercial value or sentimental value)
  2. Can I afford spending, if I am very lucky, a few hundreds bucks or if I am unlucky a couple grands for the recovery?

If you reply "Yes" to both questions, you should ask a professional service.

If you reply "Yes" to the first only, you should do nothing.

If you reply "No" to both, you may want to continue trying with "hobby" methods.

If you reply "No" to the first only, you are a rich man and you really should not be here, and you should have already sent the drive to a recovery firm. ;)

jaclaz

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