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Posts posted by kumarkumar

  1. In snapshot 2, I see a setting for PIO AUTO, disable them 2 buggers so your BIOS doesn't scan the port.

    Will try that today.

    Is there by chance an IDE cable connected to motherboard with no drives on it, unplug if there is.

    Exactly so. There is an IDE cable connected with nothing connected to it. Wow! :o

    So just a non connected passive cable makes a difference? (Who would have thought) :wacko:

    But how does the system know that a cable is connected? It's just a passive cable with nothing connected and while connecting it doesn't push some switch or short jumpers, etc to let the system know that it's connected.

    Otherwise, can you find a page where you can choose exactly which HDD to boot so that it doesn't have to do any searching.

    Yes, there is a page in the BIOS to select hard disk priority for booting. It shows only the drives that are connected (i.e. the two SATA drives). And one if them is the first boot hard disk. So this option is ruled out.

  2. P.S. did you just time travel forward from 2006? :lol: When you go back I need you to invest some money for me on MSFT, I mean, AAPL and GOOG :lol:

    I thought resetting the CMOS would make a difference. That's how I went to the past :lol:

    Easy, get a SATA to IDE connector and connect the sata drives to the IDE port that register as drive 0,1.

    Ok. So Channel 0 is for the IDE connector.

    The problem with this setting is, boot time is very long. On boot, it starts to find "something" and goes in loops. After several numbers of tries, it boots to Windows. I can see the light blinking with each try.

    Whereas if there is a IDE hard disk connected to IDE, it boots up immediately. So it feels that the BIOS is trying to look for the non-existent hard disks in IDE.

  3. I have a Foxconn MCP61SM-AM motherboard. It has two SATA connectors and one IDE connector.

    I have two SATA hard disks connected to the two SATA connectors. There are no IDE peripherals.

    The hard disk order appears in BIOS as below. What do I need to do so that they appear in IDE Channel 0 Master & IDE Channel 0 Slave?




  4. Thanks bphlpt & jaclaz.

    There is still something strange with the flash drive (HP v220w). In my flash drive, if I add media files to a folder containing exisiting files, even though the new filenames begin with the letter A, they appear at the end in my TV (and in that File Attributes Editor program too). Windows sorts them correctly though.

    I have do that cut paste operation for all the files between the flash drive & my computer to get them sorted correctly.

    I think the flash drive is the culprit. Don't know what is it thats changing between the file moves.

  5. Sorry got it after some fiddling.

    There was some strange problem in the flash drive that contained the files. I cut & copied all the files to my computer and then copied all of them back to the flash drive. Now the sorting is having some sense.

    It sorts by name, but not like what windows does. In Windows if there are numbers in filename then it would sort as

    File 1

    File 2

    File 4

    File 11

    File 33

    In my TV the above files sort as below (and it makes sense now, but prior to all the cut paste, it was sort of like random).

    File 1

    File 11

    File 2

    File 33

    File 4

  6. I have a TV which has its own weird "method" of sorting media files. The manual specification doesn't talk anything about it. I always wanted to find this method.
    I turned to my Windows7 computer to figure what this "method" could be. Whatever file properties windows explorer displays (Size, Date modified, Date created, Date last saved, Content created, Date, Bit rate, etc.), I tried sorting by them. Still it wouldn't match that that my TV uses.
    Then yesterday I happened to find this program called "File Attributes Editor" (link). I was surprised to see that the default file sorting order of this program is the same as used my TV. I couldn't find any contact of the author to ask him what this "method" is. So I am posting it here, if anyone can figure this out.

  7. I have my PC connected to an AVR via HDMI. If I put the AVR on standby and then switch it ON again, the "Playback devices" components list shows "NVIDIA High Definition Audio" as "Not plugged in", as shown in the image below.


    I have to log off & login again or restart the PC to show the "NVIDIA High Definition Audio" as active.

    What I want to do is, somehow reload this listing, exactly the same way it reloads when you logout and login again or when you restart the machine, without having to logoff/login or restart.

    I thought that restarting the "Windows Audio" and it's dependent services would do it, but that doesn't help. I also tried starting the network related services using the command (which includes restarting Windows Audio service)

    svchost -k netsvcs

    That didn't help either.

    Is there any way?

  8. I have a primary router with SSID "ROUTER_1" in one room. In another room I have configured another router in repeater bridge mode (dd-wrt). The Virtual Interface SSID of this router is" ROUTER_2".

    Now as I understand I should connect to the router that is nearest to me. So when in the room having the repeater, I try to connect to ROUTER_2 in my laptop with Windows 7. Unfortunately it's not able to connect and says "Failed to connect". Both SSIDs have identical security and passkey. The repeater works fine with wired connection. The laptop is able to connect wirelessly to the primary router but not the repeater.

  9. I have Office 2010.

    Each time I launch Excel, or open an existing file, it tries to access some old file and I get the following error pop up:

    'D:\abcd.xla' could not be found. Check the spelling of the file name, and verify that the file location is correct.

    If you are trying to open the file from your list of most recently used files, make sure that the file has not been renamed, moved, or deleted.

    If I press Ok, the pop up goes away and everything works fine after that.

    Any ideas?

  10. Sure.

    But you need to disconnect the wires.

    You are in a situation like:



    Where the left side lines or dot are (for the sake of the example) the phone line coming in and the right side ones are the line going to a "next" phone socket (the * being the actual "first" phone socket)

    You have to disconnect the wires on one side of the socket, like:

    ----* ----

    ----* -----

    and measure with a multimeter the Voltage on botth the wires still connected to the socket and on the the ones that were disconnected.

    Use ~ (Alternate Current) and a relatively HIGH Voltage setting on the multimeter, it depend on countries and standard (and actual REN number and what not) but a common telephone line may well be at around 48 V and when ringing well above 100 V. :ph34r:


    I tried measuring voltage. Strangely it showed zero or negligible AC voltage on my multimeter, even though DSL works.

    I have naked DSL, meaning I don't have telephone connection in the line. There is never any dial tone.

  11. Is there a way to figure out which is the master phone socket? Using multimeter or whatever.

    I live in an apartment complex and the wiring is concealed. I cannot figure out from where the external phone line comes in the house and then goes to which phone socket first and then to which and so on.

    There are three phone sockets and the last one in the series is known (figured out by obvious reasoning). So remaining are two, one of which is the master and the other one in between. I need to figure out which one is what among these two.

  12. Another option would be installing a wireless access point and a wireless adapter for your other PC, if it doesn't have one already. Then comparing the cost of all the options mentioned so far, you might decide that pulling a long Ethernet cable might be "feasible" after all. :) (Cable is cheap after all.)

    Cheers and Regards

    Its not about the cost involved due to long lengths, but the non feasibility lies in not being able to take the wire from one room to the other across gaps on walls, doors, windows, etc, leave apart it looking ugly.

  13. If I may, if there is a "main" PC and a less used one, easiest would be to buy a couple network-over-power-lines adapters, principles:




    If you can live with a slightly slower network, two of these (example):


    may fit the bill, if you want a speed comparable to an ordinary 100 Mbit lan, this (other example):


    should do within a still reasonable price.

    (and you get anyway two hubs that ay come handy to connect a NAS or a notebook)


    Thanks a lot for the links. Nice to know about these devices being into existence.

    I live in a country, where these are not available or cannot be procured. The only option would be to import them at exorbitant costs. :(

    Hence, though would have loved these plug & play devices, its out of reach for me.

  14. Right now dsl modem doesn't allow this kind of thing (you only put one modem on one phone line) just like with any RTC modem. Perhaps in the future, there will be modem allowing this but i don't think so.

    But you could perhaps use the parallel phone cable (usually with rj11 connectors) to transmit the ethernet signal although the other phone lines can't be used as phone lines anymore after this mods:

    - Check how many wires are connected between two phones plugs (not only the connected wires, sometime there are more wires that are not connected and even in some cases ethernet cable was used to connect phones plugs). If there are less than 4 wires, then this is simply impossible as the lowest ethernet signal need at least 4 wires. If there are at least 4 wires (8 would be best to have at least 100Mb/s), you can continue to the next step.

    - Identify where the phone line is first connected : usually, there is one phone plug which is connected to the external phone line and the at least on of the other phone plug. This phone plug will be called the "master".

    - Now you need to disconnect the wires between the phone plugs except the external phone line which will stay connected to the "master" phone plug.

    - Then if you had more than one phone plug connected to the "master", you'll need at least a ethernet hub/switch, if you wish to share internet between all connected rooms.

    - Then you need to add a new female ethernet connector next to the "master" phone plug and wire it to the disconnected one (if you had more than one on the "master" plug, you'll need to add more ethernet connector as you need one for each). To wire it properly, read how there.

    - Then do the same for each of the other plugs.

    - then connect ethernet cable (cross over or straight depending on your modem and how you will connect all things).

    As sometimes a picture is easier to understand here is an example : original phone wiring post-85177-0-55587400-1315732784_thumb.p and after modifying it : post-85177-0-91715600-1315732844_thumb.p

    The black lines are the walls, the blue one are the existing cable between the phone plugs, red rectangles are the phone plugs, the green line is the external phone line and the brown rectangles are the ethernet plugs.

    As you can see, the room 3 isn't connected directly to internet (you'll need to add either an ethernet cable or a hub/switch between the 2 ethernet plugs in room 2 if you want to use internet sometime in room 2).

    Thanks a lot for the detailed writeup and the pictures that you made. Really appreciate it.

    I opened up the phone socket and had a look at the cable. Thankfully it has four wires (brown, blue, white, white). Thankfully I also happen to have a spare ethernet switch :)

    Now I will have to purchase a RJ45 Receptacle and try this out.

    Will get back to you on this.

    You mentioned that I can get 100Mbps with 8 wires, what speeds can I expect with 4 wires?

  15. I have parallel phone connections in all my rooms. I have a DSL broadband connection.

    I have connected a modem in one room to which I connect one of my computer via Ethernet cable. It works fine.

    I have another computer in another room and wish to connect it to internet as well. Now, pulling a long Ethernet cable from the above modem across rooms to the second computer would not be feasible.

    I have another identical spare modem. So I thought I might connect it similar to the first one to the parallel phone outlet in the second room.

    But as soon as I connect it to the parallel phone outlet in the second room the internet connection gets screwed up.

    Is it not possible this way? If yes, why?

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