kumarkumar

Will try that today. Exactly so. There is an IDE cable connected with nothing connected to it. Wow! So just a non connected passive cable makes a difference? (Who would have thought) But how does the system know that a cable is connected? It's just a passive cable with nothing connected and while connecting it doesn't push some switch or short jumpers, etc to let the system know that it's connected. Yes, there is a page in the BIOS to select hard disk priority for booting. It shows only the drives that are connected (i.e. the two SATA drives). And one if them is the first boot hard disk. So this option is ruled out.

I thought resetting the CMOS would make a difference. That's how I went to the past Ok. So Channel 0 is for the IDE connector. The problem with this setting is, boot time is very long. On boot, it starts to find "something" and goes in loops. After several numbers of tries, it boots to Windows. I can see the light blinking with each try. Whereas if there is a IDE hard disk connected to IDE, it boots up immediately. So it feels that the BIOS is trying to look for the non-existent hard disks in IDE.

I have a Foxconn MCP61SM-AM motherboard. It has two SATA connectors and one IDE connector. I have two SATA hard disks connected to the two SATA connectors. There are no IDE peripherals. The hard disk order appears in BIOS as below. What do I need to do so that they appear in IDE Channel 0 Master & IDE Channel 0 Slave?

Thanks bphlpt & jaclaz. There is still something strange with the flash drive (HP v220w). In my flash drive, if I add media files to a folder containing exisiting files, even though the new filenames begin with the letter A, they appear at the end in my TV (and in that File Attributes Editor program too). Windows sorts them correctly though. I have do that cut paste operation for all the files between the flash drive & my computer to get them sorted correctly. I think the flash drive is the culprit. Don't know what is it thats changing between the file moves.

Sorry got it after some fiddling. There was some strange problem in the flash drive that contained the files. I cut & copied all the files to my computer and then copied all of them back to the flash drive. Now the sorting is having some sense. It sorts by name, but not like what windows does. In Windows if there are numbers in filename then it would sort as File 1 File 2 File 4 File 11 File 33 In my TV the above files sort as below (and it makes sense now, but prior to all the cut paste, it was sort of like random). File 1 File 11 File 2 File 33 File 4

I have a TV which has its own weird "method" of sorting media files. The manual specification doesn't talk anything about it. I always wanted to find this method. I turned to my Windows7 computer to figure what this "method" could be. Whatever file properties windows explorer displays (Size, Date modified, Date created, Date last saved, Content created, Date, Bit rate, etc.), I tried sorting by them. Still it wouldn't match that that my TV uses. Then yesterday I happened to find this program called "File Attributes Editor" (link). I was surprised to see that the default file sorting order of this program is the same as used my TV. I couldn't find any contact of the author to ask him what this "method" is. So I am posting it here, if anyone can figure this out.

I have my PC connected to an AVR via HDMI. If I put the AVR on standby and then switch it ON again, the "Playback devices" components list shows "NVIDIA High Definition Audio" as "Not plugged in", as shown in the image below. I have to log off & login again or restart the PC to show the "NVIDIA High Definition Audio" as active. What I want to do is, somehow reload this listing, exactly the same way it reloads when you logout and login again or when you restart the machine, without having to logoff/login or restart. I thought that restarting the "Windows Audio" and it's dependent services would do it, but that doesn't help. I also tried starting the network related services using the command (which includes restarting Windows Audio service) svchost -k netsvcs That didn't help either. Is there any way?

Ok. Not sure why and what happened. I reset the repeater and set it up again exactly the way it was before. Now I am able to connect to the virtual SSID. One more question. If I connect to two SSID's (networks) one via wired LAN and other via wireless, whose bandwidth is consumed when I access the internet? Is it consumed simultaneously from both of them like 50% each?

I have a primary router with SSID "ROUTER_1" in one room. In another room I have configured another router in repeater bridge mode (dd-wrt). The Virtual Interface SSID of this router is" ROUTER_2". Now as I understand I should connect to the router that is nearest to me. So when in the room having the repeater, I try to connect to ROUTER_2 in my laptop with Windows 7. Unfortunately it's not able to connect and says "Failed to connect". Both SSIDs have identical security and passkey. The repeater works fine with wired connection. The laptop is able to connect wirelessly to the primary router but not the repeater.

Ok. Fixed it. Found a String value called "OPEN" under Which had "/f "D:\abcd.xla"" under Value data. Deleted OPEN.

I have Office 2010. Each time I launch Excel, or open an existing file, it tries to access some old file and I get the following error pop up: If I press Ok, the pop up goes away and everything works fine after that. Any ideas?

I tried measuring voltage. Strangely it showed zero or negligible AC voltage on my multimeter, even though DSL works. I have naked DSL, meaning I don't have telephone connection in the line. There is never any dial tone.

Thanks again jaclaz. I again feel stupid

Is there a way to figure out which is the master phone socket? Using multimeter or whatever. I live in an apartment complex and the wiring is concealed. I cannot figure out from where the external phone line comes in the house and then goes to which phone socket first and then to which and so on. There are three phone sockets and the last one in the series is known (figured out by obvious reasoning). So remaining are two, one of which is the master and the other one in between. I need to figure out which one is what among these two.

Thanks a lot jaclaz for the details. Will go to purchase a RJ-45 receptacle that fits into the current electrical board this weekend and let you know how it goes.

Thanks a lot jaclaz. Very nice & simple idea. Should have thought about it. I feel stupid now. I have a multimeter and now know what to do. About the connections to the RJ45 receptacle, should I go with 10baseT Straight Cable (PC to HUB/SWITCH) or 100base-T Straight Cable (PC to HUB/SWITCH)? I am asking this because of the note mentioned in 10baseT Straight Cable.

I then have a weird cable though it looks like Cat5. It has blue, brown, white, white (2 pairs) and they don't seem to be twisted How do I manage with two white?

Its not about the cost involved due to long lengths, but the non feasibility lies in not being able to take the wire from one room to the other across gaps on walls, doors, windows, etc, leave apart it looking ugly.

Thanks a lot for the links. Nice to know about these devices being into existence. I live in a country, where these are not available or cannot be procured. The only option would be to import them at exorbitant costs. Hence, though would have loved these plug & play devices, its out of reach for me.

Thanks a lot for the detailed writeup and the pictures that you made. Really appreciate it. I opened up the phone socket and had a look at the cable. Thankfully it has four wires (brown, blue, white, white). Thankfully I also happen to have a spare ethernet switch Now I will have to purchase a RJ45 Receptacle and try this out. Will get back to you on this. You mentioned that I can get 100Mbps with 8 wires, what speeds can I expect with 4 wires?

I have parallel phone connections in all my rooms. I have a DSL broadband connection. I have connected a modem in one room to which I connect one of my computer via Ethernet cable. It works fine. I have another computer in another room and wish to connect it to internet as well. Now, pulling a long Ethernet cable from the above modem across rooms to the second computer would not be feasible. I have another identical spare modem. So I thought I might connect it similar to the first one to the parallel phone outlet in the second room. But as soon as I connect it to the parallel phone outlet in the second room the internet connection gets screwed up. Is it not possible this way? If yes, why?

Are these commands run in the order that you have written?

When you right click on the Local Area Connection or Wireless Connection icon in taskbar, you get the option "Repair" When you click "Repair", what commands are run in the background while the repairing takes place?

Next I set "Frame Buffer Size" to 128MB and RAM to 1GB

Next I set "Frame Buffer Size" to 128MB and RAM to 512MB