Torchizard

Hi everyone, It has been a while since I last posted here. I am currently experiencing a weird issue with Windows 7 not wanting to boot on a ~3 week old build. Here's what happened: This morning, my PC took a while longer to POST and came up with a message about failing to boot and resetting the config back to default. I did that and continued on with the bootup process ...untill the Grub recovery console came up (no such partition), which is weird since I didn't install grub (but the SSD might still have the remains from the legacy mode install that the SSD was previously in). So I went back into the UEFI setup and, of course, the "Storage boot option control" setting changed to the default of "legacy only" so I changed it to "UEFI only". However, that did not fix the issue. I checked with a Ubuntu live CD and the partition exists and all the files are there too. Does anyone have any idea about how I could get Windows to boot correctly again? Additional info: The OS was in a Hibernated state (ie. has a full hiberfile.sys) Edit: Should also probably add that this is Windows 7 Ultimate x64 on a Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3 motherboard.

There have always been strange combinations of company and product such as Facebook buying the Oculus Rift. Another has surfaced lately; Microsoft and Minecraft. According to both a MS News post and Mojang Blog post, Minecraft has now transferred ownership to Microsoft for $2.5 Billion. Any thoughts on this? I have a feeling that the PS and iOS editions may 'spontaneously disappear' soon.

I've recently gotten into a game which heavily relies on HDD access which is especially slow due to the 5400RPM laptop drive I have. Would the use of RAM drive software be a benefit to save-game access speed or should I just wait until I get a SSD? Also, what RAMDisk software would you recommend that allows a 'raw' directory to be set as a drive instead of an image file since the game is rather picky about its location.

I installed the Atheros WiFI driver (source:Toshiba website) on my laptop and the installation completed without any error although the driver didn't seem to work as WiFi was still unaccessible as if the driver was not installed so I attempted to install the driver again. This time, my PC bluescreened (well, it's more of a dark-cyan screen in W8) while the driver was being installed. The BS message was "IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL" and I've attached the minidumps to this post. What can I try to get the driver to install successfully? dumps.zip

You can download a copy from DigialRiver, I believe: http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/157021-win-7-64-sp1-updates-3rd-party-slipstream-tools/ Also, is the actual "boot.wim" or the "install.wim" that has the scratch? You should still be able to install via WINNTSETUP (or manually) if the latter is "sound": http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/149612-winntsetup-v33-v34-beta-1/ http://reboot.pro/topic/10126-nt-6x-fast-installer-install-win7-directly-to-usb-external-drive/ jaclaz I was under the impression that the install DVD had a scratch because it froze on one of the screens. Under further investigation (attempting to install W7 through setup.exe from inside W8) using a downloaded ISO I have found that the same happens on the starting windows screen after the initial copy\expand files.

I recently got a UEFI laptop with Windows 8 and wanted to dualboot Windows 7. Problem is that my Win7 HomeP probably has a scratch on one of the UEFI-related files as the install freezes on the Starting Windows install screen. So would the benefits of running UEFI be enough to buy an extra W7 install CD or should I just change it back to BIOS compatibility mode and reinstall W7 and 8 that way?

I recently got a new laptop with Windows 8 and wanted to shrink its partition to install other OSes. Disk management would only shrink a total of ~400GB and upon investigation a file named {5062dfbb-c179-11e3-be7e-24fd52250d89}{3808876b-c176-4e48-b7ae-04046e6cc752} in the System Volume Information folder was the culprit. Is there any way that I could move the file to a different physical disk location or delete it and allow W8 to regenerate it after a resize?

Quite a lot of the HDD-related tools that have SMART information that I use seem to be really inaccurate. For example, CrystalDIskInfo claims that the temperature of one of my HDDs is over 42 Billion degrees . Is this an issue that some programs have or is it a misconfigured setting? If it's a software problem, would you be able to suggest any other software solutions?