vipejc
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I have an AMD X1650 AGP video card. The card works and the driver is mostly stable. The display driver crashes XP in only two situations I know of:
1. While watching YouTube videos in 720p or higher.
2. And this is the bizzare one... When using my mouse's scroll wheel on a particular site, if I randomly scroll up or down too much. (This is the only site that has this problem. And I always use my scroll wheel on other sites in the same way and much more often, and the display driver has never crashed.
I have the latest display driver, and I doubt the previous version of the display driver will fix it. The problem seems to be an intermittent display driver bug that causes a kernel-mode fault. The OS then either freezes for a few seconds before turning to a black screen, or the display driver gets corrupted showing many interlaced white and black lines for a few seconds, and then turns to a black screen. I then have to press the reset button on the tower to set the system straight again. XP never generates a mini-dump or event error after either crash.
Has anybody ever experienced such a bizzare video card driver bug?
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Thanks for confirming this, Jaclaz.
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I just want to be sure there's no gotchas since my motherboard is older and DVI is newer.
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I have an older motherboard from 2003. I've always used VGA for my monitor. Recently, my CRT monitor started showing signs of failing, so I was forced to buy an LCD monitor. The LCD monitor supports only DVI-D. I also had to buy a video card with a DVI-I port. Does the BIOS have to support DVI in order for the monitor to show the BIOS and boot-up screen? Or will my BIOS and boot-up screen show fine as long as my AGP graphics card doesn't have an issue? I don't want to run into trouble with the new monitor. All the quality LCD monitors use DVI-D, so I had to accept this forced upgrade.
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Ok I'll try replying again...
It probably works with either Home or Pro. It doesn't hurt to try it right? I never used it on XP myself.
It didn't work. Looks like I'm sticking with BartPE, which is by no means a bad thing.
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Yes, Trip, I'm referring to the old Vista one, build 6000. I'm sure it supports XP SP3. What I need to know is does the WAIK support Windows XP Home Edition? Microsoft isn't the most detailed bunch.
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All the Microsoft download says is it supports XP SP2 or XP SP2 with KB926044 installed (if you want to load a Vista registry hive in XP). However, I read an article on WAIK that said you must use Windows XP Professional SP2, but I'm sure SP3 would also work. What I can't confirm is can Windows XP Home SP3 be used with WAIK?
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Yes, it is a practical solution. Epoxy doesn't come in jars.
Autozone - Plastic Epoxy (2-part tube) $5.95
1/2 PartA, 1/2 PartB - the container has a "plunger" that allows both parts to be dispensed onto (e.g.) Cardboard and any stick (e.g. toothpick) can be used to stir well., at which time it can be carefully and evenly spread thus filling the imperfection and ensuring (to soothe your irrational paranoia) that there will be no "bare metal" (or whatever).
Epoxy can be purchased at any Retail Auto Parts Outlet, Hardware Store, or even probably Kroger's. I do believe you can find it at (OMG!) Dollar Stores. I've used it many a time in Autobody Repair (yep, and I can paint them too). I've also used it to repair a (OMG!) Home Appliance (dryer).
Your buckets of arguments still leak... Are you relation to Piers Morgan?
Really? Let me call 10 random people in the phone book and ask them if they have epoxy lying around the house... The results...not one had epoxy in the house. Oh sure, you can purchase it almost anywhere. That wasn't my point. My point was very few people have epoxy just lying around the house. And more to the point, I'm not applying epoxy to a USB port and potentially damaging devices playing DIYer. Sounds like it just make the situation worse, really. I feel secure that USB port is 100% safe to use, as the defect is only on the face of the plastic tongue and there's nothing touching the defect that could cause damage. Thank you to Trip and you for your help, but go play flame wars with somebody else, maroon.
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Go ahead, keep it up, ignore practical solutions.
Electronics Forum...and it's slightly indented and appears as a chip, not solder.
Get some, mix it, smear flat with a piece of paper and let dry. DONE! Problem solved!Yes, virtually all epoxies & most other glues are completely non conductive when dry, unless specifically stated otherwise.In fact, epoxy is often the material of choice for high voltage insulating jobs. It's also what most circuit boards are made of.
BTW, yes, I DO know more than you, as well as most other long-time knowledgeable members.
P.S. Liquid Fiberglass works the same way (non-conductive).
It's not a practical solution. Ask 100 people if they have a jar of epoxy in their house, and you'd be lucky if one did. And I wouldn't touch that idea. I'm not an assembly factory. I could cause more harm than good. Where did I ever say I knew more than you? And where is this coming from? You know some things and I know some things. Jaclaz has corrected you a few times here, and there's been many times in this thread you've made an error, but I didn't say anything. But again, thanks for your help and try to understand that not everybody knows the same things. If I ask a question, it's because I have a tough problem I can't solve and so I call on others who just might have the answer. I also believe in answering a question after I ask one, as that's common courtesy. You really suck at this computer support thing. Now, before you get mad, yell at me, put me down, accuse me of being a spammer, and do your usual song and dance, take this advice and improve, or just don't help at all.
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I just tore up a USB port. There is no metal inside the plastic. Other than if you break it enough you will see the pins from the other side.
Regarding the ports arrangement, there is no "up or down" standard when manufacturers put together their cases. For the most part, they may have a quality control measure to make sure all ports are facing the same direction for the entire production line, but it does widely vary as far as which way they are facing when they have a vertical orientation in a case.
Thanks so much for doing that. What do you suppose this anonymous metallic defect could be? I highly doubt it's solder, as that's white, not metallic. It appears to be a slight indent from a scratch where a round portion of metal shows.
A co-worker said that he had accidently broken the USB port in his notebook and it did have metal under the plastic. Not the case in the one I tore up tho, so I can't say for sure.
It's okay. I'm not going to get a better answer. I'll either use it knowing there's a high chance of no problem, or I'll never use it and use the one to the right. I just needed to know before potentially damaging expensive USB devices.
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BWAHAHAHAH!!! That's STILL correct even if UPSIDE-DOWN!
1-2-3-4 (pinouts.ru)
4-3-2-1 (yours upside-down)
Actually, it's pins 4, 3, 2, 1, but I could be wrong about the port orientation switching the pins around, though it makes perfect sense. I wasn't trying to play mind games.Mine are "sideways" - does that make them all "1-1-1-1" or would that be "4-4-4-4"?
If a Commercial Jet flips over, does the Pilot/Copilot Seats magically "reverse" (or "mirror")?
Care to play a game of Star Trek 3-D Chess with me?
Have you ever dated Lindsay Lohan?
[/snarks]
Ennyhoo, you've been specifically answered. I'm betting it's a "coloration bubble" from when the plastic part of the component was molded over the contacts. Same thing can happen when Fiberglass is mixed and spread (check out some aftermarket fiberglass automobile products).
Thanks for all your help. I got what I needed. I suggest you be more polite to people you want to help. You certainly don't know it all, as does nobody. No hard feelings.
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I just tore up a USB port. There is no metal inside the plastic. Other than if you break it enough you will see the pins from the other side.
Regarding the ports arrangement, there is no "up or down" standard when manufacturers put together their cases. For the most part, they may have a quality control measure to make sure all ports are facing the same direction for the entire production line, but it does widely vary as far as which way they are facing when they have a vertical orientation in a case.
Thanks so much for doing that. What do you suppose this anonymous metallic defect could be? I highly doubt it's solder, as that's white, not metallic. It appears to be a slight indent from a scratch where a round portion of metal shows.
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Actually, Sub, I did tell you. I even wrote a note below the diagram explaining it. I've attached the image I used so you can see why I said that.
Now, notice how that USB port has the four contacts ABOVE the plastic strip and pin 1 is +5V. Well, my USB port has the four contacts BELOW the plastic strip, so I assume pin 1 is GND, because if you rotate the USB port 180 degrees, GND becomes pin 1. Do you understand me?
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DUDE, you are a JACKWAGON!!!
THIS Image is from the LINK pinouts.ru - WHERE is it different from YOURS?
LOOK AT YOUR FREAKIN' THUMBNAIL! COMPARE TO THE BELOW IMAGE! FOUR PINS ON THE BOTTOM! It is EXACTLY correct!!! DAY-UM!!!Pin Name Cable color Description1 VCC Red +5 VDC
2 D- White Data -
3 D+ Green Data +
4 GND Black Ground <--- FOUR! GND LIKE YOURS!!!
AS I SAID, It is IRRELEVANT as it's in the FACING!!! YOU tell ME how you can "short" a CABLE when you INSERT IT - NO FREAKIN' WAY! Why don't you do a CONTINUITY CHECK for GND if you wish OR with a Multimeter PROPERLY SET for +VDC (red="bare spot" black=metal casing) while ON to PROVE whether its "plastic" or not!!! It COULD be a "hole" in the FACING where the CONTACT is MOLDED INTO THE PLASTIC! AND IS IRRELEVANT!!!
TEAR UP YOUR OLD CASE'S PORTS (it's empty, RIGHT?)!!! I refuse to tear up MINE!!!
My last nerve!!! You just LOVE to argue, don't you??? Done!!!
You'll not get ONE SINGLE RESPONSE from me... ANYWHERE!!!
If I get chewed for being RUDE, then SO BE IT!!!
EDIT!!! Starting to believe you're maybe one of the SPAMMERS!
Relax, buddy. First, I didn't use that image. I used another image, which is why pins 1 and 4 are switched, because the port orientation is different. What's your problem? You ask for info, and I give it to you. Now you're calling me a spammer. I'm not a USB maker. I don't know enough about the subject, which is why I asked for help. Why can't you be polite and try to help, instead of always being condescending and rude? Take a page from bphlpt's book. It's not a hole in the plastic for a contact. I'm selling my old case, so I don't want to ruin the USB port. I wasn't saying take a used working port on your live system and destroy it. I asked anybody if they had a defective USB 2.0 type-A port, if they would take the job. Where have I argued with you? I actually agreed with you about that strip probably being 100% plastic.
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First, my apologies on the Pinout "on left/on right" - the LEFT one is the "cable" and the RIGHT one is the "jack" (on the PC). Your picture exactly matches.
If you use a magnifying glass to look inside a cable connector (like I just did) you'll note that it's all plastic EXCEPT the four contacts. You picture indicates that there apparently IS a "defect" but it's in the FACE and will butt right up against the rear of the cable connector (which BETTER be plastic). I see no real problem here and doubt you could even cause a failure when plugging into it even if you tried as a cable slips INTO the jack and not ONTO it. SO... if it indeed HAS +5v at the "defect" you'll never be able to "short" anything anyway.
Does this satisfy your concerns?
Does anybody have a USB 2.0 type-A port that they wouldn't mind taking a screwdriver to and chiseling away the face of the plastic strip to see if there's metal under it, too? I highly doubt I have some special expensive USB port. I mean, it's China. So if you think this piece is made out of plastic, which I think so too, then I agree. But something silver is on the face of the plastic strip, and it's slightly indented and appears as a chip, not solder.
Sub, as I said, my USB port pin 1 (the right most pin looking at the port from in front of the PC) is GND, not +5V. In the pinout I used to create my diagram, that USB port was installed so that the 4 contacts were on the top of the plastic strip and pin 1 was called +5V. However, my USB port has the 4 contacts on the bottom of the plastic strip, making pin 1 the GND, right? So if the defect is above the GND pin, as I think it is, is this port still completely safe to use?
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As far as I know, and from looking at all the female USB connectors that I have access to, that piece of black plastic is solid black plastic with no metal underneath it. I suppose there is a remote chance that your case is unique, but that doesn't seem to make sense, since all the pins rest against it. Being a conductor, such as metal, could lead to problems, I would think. There is also a remote chance that if you believe the defect is metal that it could be solder that got stuck on top of the plastic, but if it is that it should be able to be pried off. If it really is metal underneath a plastic coating and the plastic is chipped, exposing the metal, then I suppose there is a chance of that creating a problem depending on (1) how far around the chip is, (2) what that metal is connected to, (power, ground, or what?), (3) whether it is possible to create a connection across multiple pins on the USB cable as you are plugging it in or even touch any of the pins for that matter, etc, etc. It's hard to say, but I have a hard time believing that black plastic is not solid black plastic. If I'm wrong, it won't be the first time.
Cheers and Regards
I wish it were solder, but it's definitely metal, or something metallic colored. I attempted to remove it with a sharp screwdriver blade and gentle chiseling, but it won't budge. I did insert a USB flash drive into the port, and the drive read and wrote with no issues, but I'm not sure about the future.
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Sub, here's that image you requested. I hope it makes the problem clear. It's definitely a defect, as I attempted to remove it with a damp cloth and then a screwdriver blade. It appears to be metal underneath the black plastic strip.
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(sigh...) Inside MINE is a "vertical" (since mine is obviously Up-Down instead of Left-Right - YOU GAVE NO PHOTO IMAGE) Black Strip with FOUR contacts and on the OPPOSITE side there are TWO "contacts" that MAY be (and obviously ARE) for the Shield/CaseGround. See this Pinout (both Male and Female) and this Mobo Pinout? I have NO CLUE what you're talking about...
P-I-C-T-U-R-E!!!
I don't have a camera. All I want to know is if a piece of that black coating is worn or chipped, could it damage a device?
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Sub, I'm referring to the black plastic horizontal strip inside a USB 2.0 type-A receptacle. A piece of the black coating is worn and appears a clear or silver color. My question is could this cause device damage, or is it only a cosmetic factory defect?
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It turns out the problem wasn't the BIOS or IDE cables. I forgot to set the Local Bus IDE Adapter BIOS setting from Both to Primary. Using the two-device 80-wire IDE cable with the hard disk set to Master w/ Slave Present on the gray connector and the DVD burner set to Slave on the black connector, the BIOS and Windows detect the hard disk and DVD burner. Yes, I know the gray connector is supposed to be used for the slave device and the black for master, but the cable doesn't accommodate this setup and it's not causing a problem. Also, I restored my audio by jumpering the motherboard's front audio pins. I also restored my DVD burner in Windows by readjusting a few settings in Device Manager under the IDE channels. See, I only enable what I use on my computer, and after years of not changing it, I sometimes forget.
I do have a new concern, however. I noticed that the black teeth on one of the front USB ports to this new case looks damaged. There's a metal spot showing. The port worked fine in testing, but could this cause device damage, or is it only a cosmetic factory defect?
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Hi, I could use some help in dotting the I's and crossing the T's. I want to swap out my board processor etc. with these:
GIGABYTE GA-F2A75M-D3H FM2 AMD A75 (Hudson D3) SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128570
AMD A8-5600K Trinity 3.6GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) Socket FM2 100W Quad-Core Desktop APU (CPU + GPU) with DirectX 11 Graphic AMD Radeon HD 7560D AD560KWOHJBOX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113281
CORSAIR 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Desktop Memory Model CMV8GX3M2A1600C11
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233350
and this will go in my older Antec Sonata
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129155
There won't be any problems in this combo?
Thanks in advance.
George, that system is compatible from the info you provided. As for possible pitfalls, you'll just need to buy your parts and learn through trial and error. Without seeing things like your case's screw hole locations and all the other gotchas, I can't give you a definite answer. I hardly ever make system adjustments. I just bought a new Cooler Master case to replace the drab Compaq case I've used 8 years, and while I got almost everything right in one go, the case manual was AWFUL. I had to draw custom diagrams and make educated guesses. I will never ever make another change to my computer. The manufacturers are way too stupid and I'm not killing myself trying to make sense of it all.
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Even if it "can" be, it is not the best practice. Are you sure your cable is not long enough to be able to connect the DVD and HDD to the cable in the correct positions? Just because the DVD is located "above" the HDD doesn't mean that the cable can't be bent/twisted/folded in order to get it into the right position. If the cable is long enough for the middle/slave connector to reach the DVD, then you should be able to make it work.
Cheers and Regards
The IDE cable is long enough. I can't twist it to make it so the HDD is on the end Master connector. I'm going to try my idea and just see if it brings back the DVD burner in Windows. What's funny is the BIOS detects it, but Windows is blind to it.
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Single/Master(NoSlave)=NoJumper / Master(+Slave)=Jumper <-WD only(?)
Yes. I don't remember other brands with the dual Master/single and Master settings.
Still referring to CableSelect cables and PROBABLY when using the Jumpers in CS-mode. Strange (or not) that many OLDER CD/DVD-Drives RECOMMEND CS on Channel-1 on the END of the 40-conductor Cable.
No, you are seemingly having problems in reading/understanding what is written.
There exist (in 40 wires cable) BOTH Cable Select Enabled and "plain" NON Cable Select ones, on the 40 wires CSE cables the Slave is at the end of the cable .
The 80 wires are all (or should be all) Cable Select Enabled and the Slave is in the middle.
On *any* bus of *any*kind (and not only PC/Computer related) having an end of a cable "free" with nothing connected to it is NOT smart and it is a possible source of trouble.
Do you remember the good ol' SCSI bus and it's "terminators"?
jaclaz
@ jaclaz
I'm waiting for a package in the mail of cable ties. Once it arrives, I'll shut down my computer and start isolating IDE cables. But first, I'm simply going to try changing the jumpers to Slave on the hard disk and Master on the DVD burner, just to see if this makes a difference. A hard disk can be a Slave to a DVD burner that is seldom used without issue, right?
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[...] The used space on my hard disk is about 13 GB. The 40 GB is just a good amount for all the space I think I'd ever need.
Since your used space is only 13 GB, I would try to shrink the partition down to 20 GB to make your Macrium image from, but that's just me. You can always expand it back to 40 GB or even 160 GB after your image is made.
Cheers and Regards
You're right. I could also do that. All good ideas. So here's how I'm going to fix all my problems:
1. Place two jumpers on pins 5 and 6, and 9 and 10 of the FRONT_AUDIO header to restore speaker sound.
2. Reconfigure my IDE cables until Windows detects both the hard disk and DVD burner.
3. Use GParted, shrink my existing XP partition to 160 GB, create a new Macrium Reflect image, and then restore it as needed.
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XP OS vulnerabilities after April 8, 2014
in Windows XP
Posted
Hey, guys. Now that official XP support is over, the hackers are going to reverse-engineer the security updates for the newer versions of Windows and then create exploits for XP. Hackers can indirectly attack a computer through malware. Most of us know how to prevent that, but hackers can also directly attack a computer through OS security vulnerabilities. Now since Microsoft will never patch them, if a user takes every step to protect their XP system, from having a firewall installed to having anti-virus software installed to everything in between, is this really any risk? Could an attacker get inside a computer if the user doesn't install malware? If so, how? Would you say the built-in XP firewall will always protect the system, or could a hacker possibly exploit it and gain control of the system? All very important questions for XP warriors.