vipejc
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I made a mistake. I was thinking the motherboard was smaller than it was. During my practice run, I discovered the case and motherboard screw hole locations perfectly match. Now to get that Delta fan and I'll put the cooler in Cooler Master. And if I ever actually need the front panel ports, I'll buy a cheap multimeter and test the front panel pins.
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OK, jaclaz, next thing I when I will find you, I will bind you to a chair and move a spinning low power, inoffensive low watt fan around your eyes, nose and ears. Since this is harmless, you should have no fear.
When Jaclaz hits the fan. LOL
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Thanks, Jaclaz. LOL When I read people are stupid enough to touch a moving fan, I laugh. Do not worry. I'm as careful as they come. Just read this entire thread.
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I knew all that.
But you failed to post these data.
The operating voltage for this fan is 6.0V to 12.8V. My concern is is it possible that this fan could run at 12.8V and 8.96W at stock settings with no user adjustments to voltage, which is over my motherboard fan header's wattage limit of 8.88W?
No, what you are basically missing, and I am trying - at this point desperately
- to try telling you is that if you connect a (say) 24 V device (or a 36 V or a 48 V or a 5 V or *whatever* voltage) to a 12 V outlet, the max voltage present at the outlet will remain 12 V, it is what "comes out" of the outlet and not the specs of the device attached to it.The specific device (fan) can run continuously at 12.8 V but it is designed to be powered at 12V (i.e. it has a target of being operated at 12 V though it can accept as low as 6V and as much as 12.8V).
Power absorption is another matter, if you attach a device rated for a higher power absorption (but within the right Voltage specs) to a power outlet, the device will attempt to get more power (up to it's own specifications).
As a matter of fact when you connect a load to a voltage output, the voltage level might drop a little, but NEVER increase, if your motherboard ouputs 12V (as a matter of fact, if you had a mutimeter, you would measure on it - as said - most probably 12.2 or 12.3 V with no load connected to it and exactly 12 V or more likely 11.9 V with a "heavy" load connected) you will NEVER be able to get 12.8V from it.
Examples (simplified, and in order to let you understand) in case of BOTH an unprotected/unlimited power supply and of an unprotected/unlimited device:
Power supply specs:
12V 1A hence 12W
- If you attach to it a device rated 6V 1A (6W) continuous, the device will burn in no time (because the voltage operating range of the device is greatly exceeded) .
- If you attach to it a device rated 12V 1A (12W) continuous, both the device and power supply will work for years without issues (this device may well have peaks or "MAX" of up to 40% more than standard absorption - or even higher "transient" current spikes without any consequences to the device or to the power supply)
- If you attach to it a device rated 6V 2A (12W) continuous the power supply OR the device will burn in no time.(because the voltage operating range of the device is greatly exceeded OR the current capabilities of the power supply are greatly exceeded)
- If you attach to it a device rated 24V 1A (24W) continuous the power supply is very likely to burn (because the device will attempt to draw more current to compensate for the lower voltage)
Additionally voltage and current are linked together by Ohm's Law:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law
that is the same, written differently, that gives you V x A = W (when talking of DC, NOT AC)
http://www.csgnetwork.com/ohmslaw2.html
the MAX current that device will draw is 0.70A at 12V, if you supply it with a higher voltage, let's say 12.8V it will draw LESS current, i.e.
12 x 0.70 = 12.8 x X -> X=~0.66 A
If you attach to an outlet (BTW surely protected from overcurrents) rated for 12 V 0.74A that particular fan, it will run normally at 12V (and NOT at any higher voltage) absorbing normally 0.51A with the possibility of peaks up to 0.70A.
The outlet can provide UP TO 0.74A at 12V (8.88W), the device will nornally use 0.51A at 12V (6.12W) with peaks up to 0.70A at 12V (8.40W).
You are well within the specs.
jaclaz
Thank you for confirming the fan is OK for my system. I needed to be sure to avoid damage. Just one last thing, are all motherboard fan headers protected from overcurrent? Also, if you store a fan for years and then decide to use it someday, would the oil on the bearings be dried up and the fan useless, or would the fan work like the day you bought it because the fan and the oil were never worked?
0 - If you attach to it a device rated 6V 1A (6W) continuous, the device will burn in no time (because the voltage operating range of the device is greatly exceeded) .
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Well, FWIW, it appears the the answer you got over at the OC forum is similar to the one given here. Although I could be wrong based on the specs. This indicates you have a Compaq model similar to a SR1030NX. You see, without knowing EXACTLY what your OLD case is (IOW, the Compaq MODEL) as well as the MoBo as well as the NEW case we are only... GUESSING. You've consistently stubbornly refused to give any details other than that which you wish to provide. This just cause us to DRAG info from you to further... GUESS.
According to the Specs page, the Rear connectors are the basic (top-to-bottom) "Line IN" "Line OUT" "Mic IN" and probably changeable to accommodate 6-CH Dolby Surround (all are OUT). I will VENTURE to say the the "FPOUT"/"RET" are the "typical" contacts that (possibly) "disconnect" the Back Panel OUT in lieu of FP-Headphones (FPOUT/tip = + and RET/sleeve = -), the "-" side laying against the "+" side to allow "through" to Rear Connectors. The "MIC2" is PROBABLY for a Condensor(?)-type Mic(?).
You can SEE why we have suggested you TRACE the FRONT through the CABLE (disconnected from the MoBo) via Continuity Check (touch stuff inside the FRONT to an PIN on the MoBo end of the CABLE). Possibly, this BOX has a PC-board in the back of the FRONT that could ENTIRELY change the circuitry. Did you check that? You MAY have to (AFTER thorough Continuity check and DEPENDING on an additional PC-Board) "rig"/rewire the CABLE (or NEW cable?) to adapt to the MoBo. You ARE dealing with a "Compaq/HP Modified" ASUS MoBo, you know...
Finally, according to SR1030NX Specs the Front Panel has the same sound connections, although I'd bet that it's STRICTLY "L/R Line In/Out" and "Mic (mono) IN" and NOT able to change to Surround as this is USUALLY how it works. I COULD be wrong and MIC1/2 COULD indicate a "L/R"-style mic (UNKNOWN). "JD" COULD mean "Jumper Detect" (whatever that might be?).
Google'd
"front panel" "mic jd"
That's all any of us "experts" can give without exact info and further reference links.
I wasn't being stubborn. I didn't tell you model names because I thought the new case connectors and motherboard header schematics were all you needed. I will happily provide any details you require. All you have to do is ask. This should get you started:
Compaq SR1030NX ATX mid-tower case
New case is a Cooler Master Elite 335 ATX mid-tower
Mobo is an ASUS-HP A7V8X-LA Kelut GL6E
What else would you like? I know my entire system like the back of my hand, from the BIOS revision to the CPU stepping code. This is the first time in 8 years I've ever dealt with case connectors and motherboard headers, so I'm learning as I go. And thanks to the incredibly stupid case and motherboard makers, I never ever want to deal with this lunacy again.
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1 Smart-axe responses will get you zilch. Typically, you expect crystal-ball answers. ALL hardware has it's differences unless the EXACT SAME ITEM, in which "case"... DUH!!!1 Yeah, it seems nobody - out of all the PC "experts" - knows much when it comes to the tough stuff, like case front panel connectors and motherboard headers. 2 I'm not buying a meter just to hook up a few wires one time. Either we'll figure this out with research and confirm it's 100% correct with no risk of frying my board, or I'll simply keep the front panel connectors disconnected, as I don't use them but wanted them connected for completeness. 3 Yes, I know VCC usually means +5 V. It's pins 1 (now this one too?), 3, 4 and 7 that are a mystery. 4 I will inspect the Compaq case's wires when the new case arrives in the next week or two and try to match them by color.
2 Who said a few wires at a time to check continuity? Unplug the cable from MoBo and CHECK (front panel, remember?)!
3(Hint - 2 wires, a battery, some electrical tape, and a flashlight bulb...)
4 Colors may be all out of whack. You STILL will need to check continuity.Motherboard
Pin 1: AUD_MIC1
Pin 2: AUD_GND
Pin 3: AUD_MIC2
Pin 4: AUD_VCC <-Case Pin#7
Pin 5: AUD_FPOUT_R
Pin 6: AUD_RET_R
Pin 7: AUD_MIC_JD
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: AUD_FPOUT_L
Pin 10: AUD_RET_L
Case
Pin 1: MIC
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: MIC BIAS
Pin 4: AUD GND
Pin 5: FPOUT R
Pin 6: RET R
Pin 7: +5V <-Motherboard Pin#4
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: FPOUT L
Pin 10: RET L
I'm 99% positive all pins match except pins 3, 4 and 7.
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(see #2,#4)+5 V, the - and the GND make all the difference1. Wasn't directed at you or Jaclaz. I appreciate your efforts.
2. The more I researched, the less confident I became in certain pins.
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I got the data for the fan from the Delta datasheet called AFB1212HHE-CF00(REV00).pdf. I just double-checked the specs to make sure they're correct, and they are.
Good, this one, then:
http://www.delta-americas.com/products/FanUploads/Specification/AFB1212HHE-CF00(REV00).pdf
it says that the power consumption is 0.51 A and consequently (at 12 V) 6.12 W, with a MAX of 0.70A/8.40W.
You didn't post initially this info.
That fan will normally use 0.51 A with PEAKS of 0.70 A.
Your motherboard provides (your specs that I did NOT check) 0.74A or 8.88W and provides a 12 V level.
You are well within any limits and you can safely use that fan attached to that motherboard.
jaclaz
I knew all that. The operating voltage for this fan is 6.0V to 12.8V. My concern is is it possible that this fan could run at 12.8V and 8.96W at stock settings with no user adjustments to voltage, which is over my motherboard fan header's wattage limit of 8.88W?
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Yeah, it seems nobody - out of all the PC "experts" - knows much when it comes to the tough stuff, like case front panel connectors and motherboard headers. I'm not buying a meter just to hook up a few wires one time. Either we'll figure this out with research and confirm it's 100% correct with no risk of frying my board, or I'll simply keep the front panel connectors disconnected, as I don't use them but wanted them connected for completeness. Yes, I know VCC usually means +5 V. It's pins 1, 3, 4 and 7 that are a mystery. I will inspect the Compaq case's wires when the new case arrives in the next week or two and try to match them by color.
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I really don't see how these are required, but I'll play ball. My motherboard is an ASUS-HP A7V8X-LA Kelut GL6E and the Delta fan model is AFB1212HHE-F00.
Where exactly did you get the data for the fan?
Unless I am mistaken, the specs are here:
http://www.delta.com.tw/product/cp/dcfans/dcfans_product.asp?pcid=1&ptid=1
http://www.delta.com.tw/product/cp/dcfans/download/pdf/AFB/AFB120x120x38mm.pdf
AFB1212HHE -C -R00 / -F00 12 6.0 to 12.8 0.51 6.12or here (more likely):
http://www.delta-america.com/Products/FANUploads/Specification/AFB1212HHE.pdf
jaclaz
I got the data for the fan from the Delta datasheet called AFB1212HHE-CF00(REV00).pdf. I just double-checked the specs to make sure they're correct, and they are.
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Motherboard
Pin 1: AUD_MIC1
Pin 2: AUD_GND
Pin 3: AUD_MIC2
Pin 4: AUD_VCC
Pin 5: AUD_FPOUT_R
Pin 6: AUD_RET_R
Pin 7: AUD_MIC_JD
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: AUD_FPOUT_L
Pin 10: AUD_RET_L
Case
Pin 1: MIC
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: MIC BIAS
Pin 4: AUD GND
Pin 5: FPOUT R
Pin 6: RET R
Pin 7: +5V
Pin 8: NO PIN
Pin 9: FPOUT L
Pin 10: RET L
I'm 99% positive all pins match except pins 3, 4 and 7.
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Jaclaz, why would I lie about specs for my problem? I assure you all specs are 100% accurate.
Never said that you were telling me lies, but maybe the actual specs may contain additional info that I would like to see and that you omitted as you rated them "unnecessary".
If you need something in specific, just ask and I'll share it.
What about the EXACT Delta fan model and motherboard make/model?
You know. like
:Now if you would be so kind as to provide the EXACT model of the Delta fan AND the EXACT make/model of your motherboard, one could have a look at the spec sheets of both and possibly give you some more detailed advise.
jaclaz
I really don't see how these are required, but I'll play ball. My motherboard is an ASUS-HP A7V8X-LA Kelut GL6E and the Delta fan model is AFB1212HHE-F00.
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Jaclaz, the reason I didn't share the model of Delta fan or the motherboard is because it wasn't necessary since I provided the data from both my motherboard manual and the fan datasheet. Is it safe to buy this fan, or am I cutting it too close?
Good
, and the reason why I asked for them is because those data you provided are NOT enough for me to give you an accurate suggestion, and they sound "queer" to me.If you prefer I would like to read myself the specs, or if you prefer even better I don't trust you on the info you posted
. .Mind you I am (was) trying to help you, it is only logical that if you cannot judge by yourself if that fan is suitable , you evidently miss some related electric/electronic knowledge
, EXACTLY the same one that would allow you to decide what is necessary and what it is not.And, as a standard, preventive disclaimer
:jaclaz
Jaclaz, why would I lie about specs for my problem? I assure you all specs are 100% accurate. If you need something in specific, just ask and I'll share it.
Huh? The 12.8 is the max rated voltage of the fan, if it has a max rated consumption of 0.70 A it will consume at the most 0.70 A (+ or - some tolerance, typically 2.5 or 5%. Then 0.70A + 2.5% to 5% would put me over the cap.
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My motherboard fan headers support fans up to 0.74A or 8.88W. I want to purchase a 12 VDC fan that's operation voltage is 6.0 to 12.8 VDC. The fan has a rated current of 0.70A or 8.40W, and a starting voltage less than or equal to 6.0 VDC. Is there any chance that the fan could run at the maximum 12.8 VDC or 8.96W, exceeding my motherboard fan headers' maximum rated current and damaging the fan or motherboard?
(8.96-8.88)/8.88=0.009 or less than 1%, well within common tolerances.
No issues whatever with voltage, if the motherboard provides 12 V (usually and more likely 12.2 or 12.3 V) this value will never be increased.
The 12.8 is the max rated voltage of the fan, if it has a max rated consumption of 0.70 A it will consume at the most 0.70 A (+ or - some tolerance, typically 2.5 or 5%)
Voltage levels and current absorption are not linear when it comes to electrical motors.
Loosely, you can:
- Think at Volts as you would think at the inner area of a water pipe.
- Think at Ampere as you would think at the pressure of the water flowing through it.
- Think at Watts as the quantity (instantly or per unit of time) of water coming out of the open end of the pipe.
To get more water you increase the pressure (the diameter of the pipe remains the same), as well if instead of flowing free from an open end of the pipe you make it deliver water in a container that is in depression, more water will flow (actually the delta of pressure is increased as well)
An electrical motor will normally attempt when under heavy stress/load (and this is not the case of a fan unless you "brake" it or it gets clogged with dust or whatever) to compensate a lower level of voltage by absorbing more Amperes.
As well, there could be issues with the (very brief in time) increase of Amperes needed to spin up, but any hardware manufacturer would take this into account when rating the current a header designed to have an electric motor connected to it can provide.
I see that you were not satisfied by the replies received here
:http://www.overclock.net/t/1337574/fan-amps-and-watts
where at least you provided the make of the fan, Delta.
Now if you would be so kind as to provide the EXACT model of the Delta fan AND the EXACT make/model of your motherboard, one could have a look at the spec sheets of both and possibly give you some more detailed advise.
jaclaz
Jaclaz, the reason I didn't share the model of Delta fan or the motherboard is because it wasn't necessary since I provided the data from both my motherboard manual and the fan datasheet. Is it safe to buy this fan, or am I cutting it too close?
0 - Think at Volts as you would think at the inner area of a water pipe.
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My motherboard fan headers support fans up to 0.74A or 8.88W. I want to purchase a 12 VDC fan that's operation voltage is 6.0 to 12.8 VDC. The fan has a rated current of 0.70A or 8.40W, and a starting voltage less than or equal to 6.0 VDC at 25 C, but my case temperature varies from 45 C to 65 C. Is there any chance that the fan could run at the maximum 12.8 VDC or 8.96W, exceeding my motherboard fan headers' maximum rated current and damaging the fan or motherboard?
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Microsoft changed the URL using Genuine validation and now we can dowload files!
Enjoy!
Confirmed. The GenuineCheck.exe when ran on your local computer is working again. ( This program returns a code that you can paste into a Microsoft download page when necessary).
Congratulations to whoever bent the ear of someone at Microsoft.
I can't swear to it, but I'm confident it was me and one of my Microsoft contacts. You're welcome.
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As long as Microsoft keep removing features and customization for no reason other than dumbing down ("simplifying"), they ARE a bully. There is a drastic difference in the way Windows was made up to XP and the releases following that. Look at Task Manager for example. From NT 4.0 to Windows 7, it improved incrementally. In Windows 8, it's "improved" but it's worse than ever. But there is objectivity be damned. Users don't get it, if Microsoft says it's "improved", then by all means it must be improved.
The real skill was if they have improved it making all the nice additions (which it does have) without breaking/re-imagining existing design.
Microsoft just changes stuff to change stuff and makes the less perceptive think it's better and fresh. They don't make intelligent changes that actually improve the OS.
A lot of techies have been wanting a better task manager for years. The new task manager is fine... kinda like a strange hybrid of ProcExp, but I think the only real problem I have with it is that it uses the Executable Name in the task list and not the Process filename. This is a problem because if some programs are not written very well (no duh huh?) and their names appear as generic listings. I should be able to get a screenshot of this behaviour in a little bit.
Here I posted the picture in this thread:
Yeah the Task Manager is improved, I am not denying that but it also has regressed in a number of ways if you read the article on my blog. The skill of improving something lies in improving it without causing regressions and a giant multi-million $ corporation with hundreds of employees dedicated to one component is not capable of improving something without breaking things and causing regressions? Not done. Simply not done. The Task Manager was not dormant after XP. It also improved in Windows Vista and Windows 7. They could have added new tabs in Windows 8 for Metro apps without destroying familiarity. Imagine if all the SysInternals tools are "re-imagined". Sure they would be "improved" but no one would want to lose features from Process Explorer right or even break their usual workflow?
Microsoft is always regressing something while trying to progress it. Just leave it alone! They're obviously not intelligent enough to know how to improve that thing. Improvement is not removing something good and replacing it with something else. Improvement is leaving something good and adding something else good.
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I'm not sure I agree that Microsoft is a bully, but you're entitled to your opinion. You seem especially vitriolic lately, though.
You should be, too. Microsoft is trying to turn Windows into a POS and force upgrades. Watch Windows 9 come out three months after 8. Next, Microsoft is going to SIMPLIFY their standard 1-year warranty to 10 days. LOL
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Guys, I don't have time to argue all your points, so I'll just say this. Everything Microsoft does, I would do differently. If you're happy with the new Microsoft management, that's your business. I've spoken my mind, and hopefully many will adopt my thinking and refuse to give a company that instead of innovates their products constantly and makes people want to upgrade, ignores innovation and tries to force upgrades. Enjoy Windows Vista, 7, and soon 8. Microsoft is a bully. And you have two choices: either beat up the bully, or willingly hand it your lunch money.
I suggest you go and check out this thread, where you will see very little love expressed for Microsoft management. The thread started out as a follow-up review of Windows 8 from a "not highly technical" user's viewpoint, but has evolved into a discussion of everything that's wrong with MSFT.
Short version: We'll enjoy Windows 7 (and some of us, Vista), but certainly not Windows 8.
--JorgeA
Hey, Jorge. I'm aware of that thread. If we want to save desktop computing, we must encourage every Windows user we can to not purchase Windows 8. Microsoft only listens when their finances take a nose dive. Imagine a non-desktop computer world with mini screens and buttons. Absolutely nothing would get done - no more graphics editing, no more video editing - no more audio editing...
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As long as Microsoft keep removing features and customization for no reason other than dumbing down ("simplifying"), they ARE a bully. There is a drastic difference in the way Windows was made up to XP and the releases following that. Look at Task Manager for example. From NT 4.0 to Windows 7, it improved incrementally. In Windows 8, it's "improved" but it's worse than ever. But there is objectivity be damned. Users don't get it, if Microsoft says it's "improved", then by all means it must be improved.
The real skill was if they have improved it making all the nice additions (which it does have) without breaking/re-imagining existing design.
Microsoft just changes stuff to change stuff and makes the less perceptive think it's better and fresh. They don't make intelligent changes that actually improve the OS.
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Don't be surprised to see the Windows lifecycle be cut down to a year starting with Windows 7 and on.
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Guys, I don't have time to argue all your points, so I'll just say this. Everything Microsoft does, I would do differently. If you're happy with the new Microsoft management, that's your business. I've spoken my mind, and hopefully many will adopt my thinking and refuse to give a company that instead of innovates their products constantly and makes people want to upgrade, ignores innovation and tries to force upgrades. Enjoy Windows Vista, 7, and soon 8. Microsoft is a bully. And you have two choices: either beat up the bully, or willingly hand it your lunch money.
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Windows 7 is nothing more than XP on eye-candy (Aero Glass UI) with a few super lame new features. Yeah, as if I'm paying a penny for that when my custom XP looks just as good.
Up until this point I was thinking "Yeah the guy is right, and is pretty reasonable too".
Now I think "just another dumb Microsoft hater troll" (and I say that even though I do agree Ms is doing some ultra stupid things last years)
I think it's painfully clear I'm a Microsoft hater, but troll...no. What I am is a computer expert who sees very wrong Microsoft patterns in their infancy and will not stand for making technology worse for more money. Avoid the Xbox 3.Stick with your XP which I am sure is best for your laptop from 2003, and I will enjoy some super lame features (like kernel that doesn't crash no matter what crap I try, ten years newer drivers, support for new hardware and other totally useless stuff) and eye candy I was so dumb to happily pay for.
Uh, I've gone over 6 years without restarting my computer or crashing my XP. The only crash I've ever had was a poorly programmed software called PC Wizard 2009, which I deleted immediately. None of what you said is a problem for me today, tomorrow, or 30 years from now. And I plan to take a photo of me using XP in 2050 and sending it to Microsoft.0 -
We don't need 768 calculators. Just one calculator that does it all.
I'm afraid hundreds of millions of MS-Windows customers might have slightly different ideas about the acceptable "one calculator that does it all". You might go poll a very small percentage of them and come back ... YMMV...
Other companies are better at that indeed (getting everybody to go "Waaow").
Beside that, nobody considers the calculator as an application. It's an accessory.
I never said the real Windows Calculator is the be-all end-all of computer calculators. I mean the application COULD be the only calculator an end user needs with some minor improvements. And no, Calculator falls under the term "application" or "program." Please don't confuse the computer world anymore than it already is.
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XP Service Pack 2 added a few nice changes, like the Windows Firewall, but so much more should've been added.
This was 10 years ago. And again, what's a "Service Pack"? Who invented the word? You're trying to give us your own definition of what is is supposed to be when it's not. You do the same with "Operating System"
You always need a third party to get stuff done. Ninety-eight percent of the value of the Windows OS comes from third parties.
Again, it's not a shame, it's how it was supposed to be. Please leave the OS separated from the applications so you get choice.
When MS adds stuff... "it's bloat" , when they add IE it's even worse... they get fined! (And "Firefox is better anyway"). You complain 3rd party programs are better, why would we still want MS to add their own ?
If Service Packs weren't about adding new features, Microsoft wouldn't try to add new features to a Service Pack, but they do. For example, the Windows Firewall. The problem is they don't know their own products. They don't know what to add. They don't know what to improve. They just guess wrong all the time.
All Microsoft applications, from Calculator to Movie Maker, are very useful and popular apps. They should always come with the OS. The problem is they're too basic and aren't updated properly. According to your logic, Windows should just be an OS with no useful and popular Microsoft apps. We don't need 768 calculators. Just one calculator that does it all.
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- to try telling you is that if you connect a (say) 24 V device (or a 36 V or a 48 V or a 5 V or *whatever* voltage) to a 12 V outlet, the max voltage present at the outlet will remain 12 V, it is what "comes out" of the outlet and not the specs of the device attached to it.
, and the reason why I asked for them is because those data you provided are NOT enough for me to give you an accurate suggestion, and they sound "queer" to me.
. .
, EXACTLY the same one that would allow you to decide what is necessary and what it is not.
BartPE, Macrium Reflect, and SATA optical drive
in Software Hangout
Posted · Edited by vipejc
Just a couple questions about BartPE, Macrium Reflect, and SATA optical drives...
1. BartPE supports slipstreaming only storage or network drivers. Does that mean I can't use a SATA CD or DVD drive to run BartPE because SATA devices require third-party drivers in Windows XP and BartPE doesn't support slipstreaming removable media drivers? Or does BartPE consider an optical drive a storage device and I just need to slipstream the SATA controller driver into my BartPE build?
2. Macrium Reflect v4.2 doesn't natively support restoring an image to a smaller partition. However, if you use Robocopy.exe and Roborestore.exe, this isn't a problem. It says Robocopy is a robust file copy program that uses an existing file system. Can I copy both Robocopy.exe and Roborestore.exe to the same folder on my USB drive with the FAT32 file system and restore my Macrium image to a smaller partition that way?