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Everything posted by fatlip

  1. LAZAROS, It is dangerous to connect to PCB while power is connected. There are other methods, such as unscrewing the top 2 or 3 screws closest to the Spindle motor and sliding in a card to kill the contacts to the motor, and then starting that way. There is also a method (pretty much the same) where you kill the contacts to the other set of connectors. If you take the PCB board off, you will see that there are two sets. The partition format is not a data format of your data. It is a format of the user partition stored in the firmware. Just make sure you are patient when this runs and let it go as long as it takes. I have seen anywhere from 5-10 seconds to 2 minutes. G
  2. This happened to my friends drive after about 4 days. This was when the bunk firmware was released, so I didn't have a good firmware to upgrade with.
  3. First I have removed my slightly nasty post I made a few days back about aviko. I apologize. It did look like he was provoking a flamewar, but after being away for a few days, I have returned to see all the helpful posts he has made. Sorry Aviko! (PS:where were you 2 months ago when this all started? )
  4. I never called anyone a thief. Yeah but calling him a thief? Come on guys.
  5. And on a side note, Pichi and myself are not pursuing any sort of "business" from this.
  6. Aviko, Removed bad comments re: aviko I pointed date when solutions were available to users. Of course they worked some time on it before release, but there was no way to stole it. Sorry for my english, as you see its not my native language.
  7. This does a scan of connected devices regardless of BIOS status. I should point out that other lights at the bottom can be active, but the BUSY light will always stay BUSY!
  8. See the tutorial I just posted here: http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=129263
  9. Some people have been wondering if their drive is actually suffering from the "BUSY" state problem that causes the drive not to be detected in the BIOS. There should be ZERO risk to your drive doing this as long as you follow the instructions! !!!!!Victoria is a powerful program, so do not mess around with any options other than specified, unless you really know what you are doing!!!!! Here is a quick and dirty guide to check if this is in fact, what has happened to your drive; What you need: 1)- a functioning computer running Windows XP/2K/2003 (not sure if it works on Vista) 2)- your "suspect" hard drive installed and hooked up to a SATA port in your PC 3)- WinRar, or another program that can extract RAR files 4)- Download this software - Victoria for Windows 5)- Extract the rar file to a location you can remember "C:\Temp or C:\Victoria" 6)- Go to the folder and execute the the "Victoria43.exe" file 7)- Now you will see the opening screen: 8)- Next you need to switch the program to PIO mode in the top right 9)- Now click the PCI Scan button 10)- You will see a list of drives listed; hopefully your bricked drive will be obvious, but go down the list and when you select the suspect drive, you will see this at the bottom: I hope this helps some of you actually diagnose the problem instead of "guessing". Fatlip Addendum: I have seen drives that show as BUSY that have other issues beyond just being stuck in this state! It is a start, but not a "Be all end all" determination if you have a bricked drive.
  10. Welcome to 50+ pages of reading http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128092 I believe your model is affected by the bug described here, but you would need to download Victoria for Windows to be sure. G
  11. Set to PIO Mode: then click PCI Scan This will list all the connected drives. You will need to click through them on the left until you find the locked one. The light at the bottom will just stay on BUSY. You can use the "Passport" button on each drive until you find the one that fails to retrieve the Passport options. This will be your dead drive.
  12. Awesome! Make sure once you have gotten your essentials backed up, that you upgrade the firmware, otherwise your drive can/will brick again. Fatlip
  13. Triskel, Download "Victoria for Windows" When you switch it to "PIO Mode" in the top right, and select your non-functioning drive, you will see the light status stuck on "BUSY" at the bottom. If it is in this state, then yes, this fix will most likely help you. G
  14. Spell, the garbage characters are normal when you powercycle the drive. What you need to do now is place a card, or something non conducting under the spindle motor contacts as shown in the tutorial. http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showto...8807&st=100
  15. Kiwi, I am going to "claim" that I was the person who really kicked this whole quest off with pichi. I have never made a negative post in the hddguru forums, due to 3 reasons. A) What's the point? B) You never know when someone will extend you a helping hand C) I knew what the answer was going to be (Contact a DR company) Did the pretentious(and sometimes arrogant) attitude that the users there showed bother me? Yes, it did, however I also accepted the fact that this is their lives and living. The things that the hddguru forums did to kick off this quest was: The posting of the 0GB LBA=0 video Someone made a post about "3 wires and a terminal connection" The non-soldering option to connect to the drive The link to some russian sites which actually showed the command list of the 7200.11 drive, as well as many other tips. After I found this information, it then led to the 0GB recovery document released by Salvation Data with the Salvation fix for 7200.11 drives. After that, everything just snowballed until Graduis found the exact commands. I would like to say that pichi and I were close, but we really weren't. (after seeing the final command set) So don't get into a flamewar with them. Thank them for their useful posts, that were almost all posted in a totally arrogant "I know and you don't" fashion. They can complain all they want, but in hindsight, it all started with their forum. Cheers, G I had a look at that forum and the guys over there are a bunch of pretentious w*****s. I vote that everyone who has successfully used this Gradius2's method (not the PCB swap method) go over there and let them know. http://forum.hddguru.com/tutorial-resolve-...-t11040-20.html
  16. This will work. This will tell you which wires are which: http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/DataShee...CABLES_V201.pdf
  17. This works. this is the one I used. Also, one of the drives I unbricked would not show the terminal until the card was placed to break the contacts with the Spindle motor. I would turn the drive off, unscrew the 1 or two screws and place the card as shown in the tutorial, then power it up. This is NOT a recommended method. It may have worked for the one guy here, but the logic behind it doesn't make sense. hello, i tried this. i did the swap did the flash to sd1a but when i plug the old pcb back to the old drive it clicks and is not recognized...
  18. Agreed, but I am "Old Skool".... Spankerer: Where do you live?
  19. Spoox, well i think you are very close; Um.... ahem: Search for Active@ UNDELETE Enterprise 7.1.050.rar on thepiratebay.org That is about as far as i can take you "legally". PM me if you need more help. At first I waited a while and powered off the drive, then I connected it to SATA on a vista x64 machine, however it wouldn't boot completely, but I was pleased to see the BIOS recognized the drive. I rebooted and went into the Bios to see if there wasn't an LBA 0 error, there wasn't. Then I powered the computer down and took out the drive and put it in an external casing (SATA-USB 2) and connected it to my laptop. The drive was recognized instantly, and the first partition came up as it should. The second and third partition came up, but were not accesible, after a very long time windows pops up with a message to format the drive. Of course I didn't format the drive. So I was able to restore all the files on the first partition, but the others still needs some research.
  20. too funny! I think I was the 3rd guy down the hole!
  21. Spoox, You have/had the "BUSY" error: LED:000000CC <<that is it! Now, it looks like you waited long enough on the: m0,2,2,,,,,22 command. This is this first we have seen of this: Zone re-format was skipped. What have you done since this? Just powered the drive off? Have you tried to connect it to the SATA port to see if the BIOS recognizes it? Fatlip. Chapin, I have no idea if this method will work, so I can't say yes. I can say that the method I used here worked perfectly: http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showto...st&p=823633 (post 30) Here are the European distributors: http://www.schmartboard.com/index.asp?page...region&dr=4 Maybe you can find what you need through them? Feel free to PM me if you have questions/need help. Fatlip
  22. Sorry all, I was not able to film the fix today. I was in a hurry to get it done as I had other commitments. However, I can say that it was successfully unbricked.
  23. I wouldn't touch anything for at least 3 or 4 days after the next release and follow Seagate's forums to see if the update is actually working. I attempted one of my 4 drives. It didn't brick it, but as soon as it failed, I stopped and started reading... then I found that SD1A was bricking drives.. then I sat back and had a good chuckle. (at Seagate of course!)
  24. There are many ways and devices you can use to get a terminal session to your drive. The one in the post you posted will work, but I think my method is easier. http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showto...st&p=823633
  25. Look at my post here: Post #30 http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showto...28092&st=20 This is all you need and it will take the confusion out of the voltage issue. Thanks fatlip. will eagerly await the video. Right now I'm understandably confused by the 5V and 3.3V and which ones I should be doing etc etc. On top of that finding that RS232 chippy thingy is harder than I thought (buying from eBay is not an option for me I live on the other side of the planet). If possible can we get a clear footage on removing the connector since that part seemed to be a delicate part of the process. Thanks again, you the man, man! You didn't do anything like sticking your HD in the freezer or anything extreme did you? Some people went to desperate measures to figure out what was up with their drive. Sadly, one suggestion out there is to stick it in the freezer. I seriously think you have a regular failed drive. The 1-2% normal failure rate. Connect the HD on terminal, you should be able to see which error is (if CC or not). Gradius I don't get the CC message, but the method of "unbricking" 0LBA-drives does not work. Seems like I have to wait for any news or for an answer from Seagate.

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