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Everything posted by poolcarpet

  1. Hi all, I have a set of the ttl adapter and usb-serial cable which I used to fix mine. I don't have any use for it anymore and it's sitting gathering dust, so if anyone wants a set to fix their hard disk, I can sell my set, say for USD10 or equivalent excluding postage. Message me if you are interested. I'm located in KL, Malaysia. Here's a photo of the set, along with 2 cables I salvaged from old PC for connection to the PC power source (use the floppy drive molex adapter) and for connecting to the hard disk TX and RX. Update: 28/July - sorry the parts are sold. for those who can buy from ebay, try looking there. i bought the key component from ebay, then just get any rs232-usb cable you can get from your local pc shop (cost about RM20 or USD6). a tip, search for "max232" in ebay, e.g. http://cgi.ebay.com/MAX232-RS232-To-TTL-Co...id=p3286.c0.m14 I bought it from this seller virtualvillage back in Jan 2009. good luck!
  2. Hi, Read the steps and instructions carefully. UPPERCASE and lowercase results in different results. Here's an example for you (from my own successful fix) F3 T>/2 F3 2>z LED:000000CC FAddr:0025BF67 LED:000000CC FAddr:0025BF67 F3 T>/2 F3 2>Z Spin Down Complete Elapsed Time 0.128 msecs So in your case, you should be doing the /2 and Z to spin down the drive, then remove papercard and spin up and follow the rest of the instructions. Good luck!!
  3. I'm so happy I learnt a new language here!! VAI-TE FUDER SEAGATE! VAI-TE FUDER SEAGATE! VAI-TE FUDER SEAGATE!
  4. this works perfectly fine - just go get this if you want a confirmed working part. http://cgi.ebay.com/MAX232-RS232-To-TTL-Co...93%3A1|294%3A50 Just buy this, and use another 4 wires to connect the power from the Desktop PC connectors to this and the RX/TX on the Seagate hard disk. Then get a USB/Serial cable or a serial cable and connect to your laptop/desktop and you are all set! It worked for me.
  5. hallwal, Use Seagate Seatools to do short/long DST/generic tests. See if those passes. If those fails, then use the Seatools for DOS (create a bootable CD from the iso in Program FilesSeagateSeatools - or something like that) and use the DOS version to do a long test. The DOS version allows you to fix any problems found. HTH. Any luck? I am having the same problem! My 1TB Seagate died last summer after 2 months of use; BIOS recognized as 0 GB, "fixed" a few days ago using RS232-TTL commands outlined here. XP now lists the drive (but not the volume name), but system runs slow and if I try to click on the recovered drive, explorer locks up. I've been using FileRescue Professional (overkill, lesser version would work as well), and I have successfully recovered some data, BUT -- the slightest hiccup such as a bad sector will render the drive completely unreadable by data recovery programs, etc until I reboot. Rebooting with this drive attached takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Is there any program that will skip the bad sectors or something without disabling the drive?? OR Is it possible to reset the drive without rebooting? Maybe a software method or perhaps disconnecting and reconnecting the sata power cable? PLEASE HELP! BTW, whoever said this is not a big problem because the major vendors are not affected - please check your facts again. Look here: http://support.dell.com/support/topics/glo...;l=en&s=gen Even more important is you see this right on the homepage on http://support.dell.com -> Hot Topics -> Seagate Drive Inaccessible
  6. maxjix, congrats. it looks exactly as how i did as well to fix mine. have you updated to SD1A? if no, can you do a quick check using seagate seatools short/long dst/generic tests and see if those pass? If yes, then it's fine. After you update to SD1A, check again with seatools and see if those pass. In my case, I updated to SD1A immediately after copying out data, and then seatools gave me failure in the dst/generic tests. If no, check out my post below - you will need to use Seatools for DOS to do a long test to 'fix' some of the issues. http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?s=&amp...st&p=833298
  7. Kador, I've followed Gradius2's first post to fix mine. It works FOR ME. period. It seems that aviko knows a lot more and comments that some of the commands are dangerous, etc, etc. It may be true. And I may have been really lucky not to have lost my data. But in the end, it works for me. Look at my latest post on the Seatools though, encountered some issues but is now fixed. Hello I have 2 drives bricked : one 7200.11 and one ES.2 I tried to contact seagate for 10 days, and got anything but professional responses (I have a ton of seagates drives, those guys just don't want to keep their customers, one day they will pay for that). I've read all the stuff on that topic. The 2 solutions are nearly identical, but the differences are not only the ones you list : one isolates the heads, one the motor, and that is pretty much a difference. I just need a working solution, period. The aviko one, taking in account only the commands, seems to be less disruptive, but I really don't know which part should be isolated, motor or heads. It's impossible to get the truth between 2 people whose words to each other are insults and "you are all wrong". Why do they fight like that ? The only result of all this will be in people's mind : "DO NOT TRUST DATA RECOVERY COMPANIES, THEY'LL TRY TO FOOL YOU IN SAYING THAT THE COMPETITOR IS LYING".
  8. Hi all, Ok, something new I've found out - maybe the rest of you can check/test. After I've followed the first post to fix my hard disk (by isolating PCB/HDA, then issue commands spin down, up, F3 T>i4,1,22 then power cycle, then m0,2,2,,,,,22) - I've also updated the firmware to SD1A, formatted it in Windows, and ran a checkdisk/surface scan. All looks ok. In fact I could access the data, copy them out, copy data in, access, apparently no issues. Then I tried to use Seatools to run the SMART check, short/long DST, short/long generic, and the SMART check passed but not the short/long DST/generic tests. Those failed. I'm not sure if those failed because we erased the G-list or because of the SD1A firmware or maybe it's unique to my hard disk. So I did some googling, and then tried to use the Seatools for DOS (it comes with Seatools for Windows, just burn the ISO in 'C:\Program Files\Seagate\SeaTools for Windows' into a CD and boot from it) and ran the long DST from there. It prompted me to repair one particular LBA (after running for few hours test!) and then it looks ok now. I've checked in Seatools for Windows and short/long DST/generic tests are passing now. I'm attaching two photos for reference. Now at least it's confirmed Seatools is reporting all ok and I'm using freeware Active Hard Disk Monitor to monitor the hard disk s.m.a.r.t. attributes to ensure i don't see any increasing values. Hope this helps!
  9. not sure, looks more like an adapter. i bought this from ebay and used it to fix mine: http://cgi.ebay.com/MAX232-RS232-To-TTL-Co...93%3A1|294%3A50
  10. aviko, like i said : "Note that I am NO data recovery expert, I DO NOT work with s***gate hard disks daily, and I KNOW NUTS ABOUT THE COMMANDS above, but I know they fixed my crap 7200.11. I'm just posting the above as a reference, based on my experience using the 1st post to fix my hard disk. I've completed copying out all my data and now am using it (after upgrade to SD1A) but am very cautious about it." I'm sure you know much much more than me. I admit I know probably 1 on a scale of 0-100. I've noticed that you have posted really a lot of comments and fixes. As someone has mentioned, we are a bunch of victims who are trying to salvage their data at a relatively low cost. If you are so certain, as someone has mentioned, why don't you start a new post with step by step fix like Gradius2's post? His guide may not be 100%, and in fact it may cause data loss - but he's trying his best and he already has the WARNINGS in red at the beginning of his guide. Let everyone decide which guide to follow and credit can be given where it's due. What you are doing now is just confusing everyone with your techno-speak and techno-questions. Do you some interest it that others will repeat mistakes? I noticed many times where are weak points of this tutorial. so you think bad, motor has 3 contacts. when you isolate motor, you will not hear when its powered, safer is to isolate heads connector. when power up drive just wait to motor stops, if you rush at this step you got LED 00000CE error on terminal. Imagine how hard disk work: reference If your drive has any bad sectors on g-list it means data which belongs to them is somewhere else. When you clear it, all information about remapped sectors will be lost (and data in them). If you dont have any bad sectors in glist why need to clearing it? powering off/on drive or waiting (with growing level of adrenaline) at this point is not necessary. just relax and send last command. I suggest to type F,,22 before, then without powering off m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 (difference is simple: if you dont specify parameter it will be used with defaults which is not the best option. 0 means no unnecessary rewriting. (Its funny because Gradius2 in solution for 0lba wrote (copied and pasted) m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 but when doing exactly same operation but in BSY solution gives different command: m0,2,2,,,,,22 ) guess why
  11. Ok, just as reference to others. I followed the 1st post and fixed my hard disk. Below are details: 1. Power off everything 2. Unscrew PCB from HDA, put cardboard to isolate the 4 contacts (i think it was 4) 3. Power up hard disk using power from PC 4. Use hyperterminal -> Ctrl-Z 5. Issue the /2 and Z commands F3 T>/2 F3 2>Z Spin Down Complete Elapsed Time 0.128 msecs 6. Remove the cardboard isolation. Screw in all remaining screws to secure PCB to HDA. 7. Issue the rest of the commands F3 2>U Spin Up Complete Elapsed Time 6.736 secs F3 2>/1 F3 1>N1 F3 1>/T F3 T>i4,1,22 F3 T> 8. After the above, I waited a while (few minutes) and then powered off the hard disk (remove and reseat the hard disk power cable from PC) 9. Issue the final command F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22 Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 14, Max Certify Rewr ite Retries = 00C8 User Partition Format 4% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00004339, ErrCode 000 User Partition Format 4% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00008DED, ErrCode 000 00080, Elapsed Time 0 mins 10 secs User Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 10 secs F3 T> The above took much longer than expected. I think in my case it took at least 2-4 minutes. As the 1st post says, NO MATTER WHAT, please DO NOT POWER OFF the hard disk after you've keyed in m0,2,2..... really have no idea what might happen. Note that I am NO data recovery expert, I DO NOT work with s***gate hard disks daily, and I KNOW NUTS ABOUT THE COMMANDS above, but I know they fixed my crap 7200.11. I'm just posting the above as a reference, based on my experience using the 1st post to fix my hard disk. I've completed copying out all my data and now am using it (after upgrade to SD1A) but am very cautious about it. Actually I don't really have much confidence in it and I might go get a WD hard disk and leave this as paperweight or I might just film myself hammering it to bits and posting the video on youtube
  12. Just shut up aviko. Your attitude is unacceptable and it's got nothing to do with English as a native language. Many people here does not have English as their native language but it's common decency and respect for others. To the rest, please just IGNORE his rants and we will get on with the topic, which is solving/improving the fix for this 7200.11. IGNORING is the best way to shut him/her out, replying will just continue to encourage him to troll around and add more replies. Personally, I think the solution is simple enough to perform already - but I salute Gradius for trying to work out a one button fix. You not but guy above already said something about stealing code from acelabs. Thats really sad. What can I say? We are sad nation at all. The only thing that we know is how to steal and of course we dont like when someone steal from us.
  13. if the data is important, cannot be reproduced, you better back it up. never know what may happen. for example, if a power failure happens during the firmware update - you might be staring at a brick. good luck!
  14. looks correct, but can never be sure. i bought this and it worked for me. http://cgi.ebay.com/MAX232-RS232-To-TTL-Co...93%3A1|294%3A50 Looking at yours, it should work as well. Are you drawing power from one of your PC's connector? Try the small power socket normally meant for floppy drives. Connect the red wire to VCC and black wire to GND on your rs232. Then make sure TXD on it goes to RX on 7200.11 and RXD on it goes to TX on 7200.11. Also the rs232 you bought seem to have power indicators, does the blue light come on when you apply power to it??
  15. i think you may have covered this, but are you sure you have power going to the rs232?? try all the com ports and none of them work? what about RX and TX? make sure they are connected correctly. RX on rs232 to TX on hard disk and vice versa. Maybe take a photo of your setup and see if we can spot anything out of the ordinary?
  16. Has anyone fixed their hard disk and updated to SD1A firmware? Those who have done so, can you check in Seagate Sea Tools, does the long DST fail? Mine is failing the long DST test, but the disk is working fine. Managed to format to 100%, managed to do surface scan in Windows XP as well and looks all ok. Just wondering if any one else is failing long DST too. Thanks!
  17. see the photo with the white piece of paper. once you open the pcb, you can see there are about 3 or was it 4 contacts. isolate that section. anyway, i think you should get a response regardless of whether you isolate or not. if you are connecting to the hard disk without isolation and you don't get the prompt, something is wrong with your connectivity or the rs232.
  18. Ok, here's what I did - 1. With power off, unscrew the PCB from the HDA. Place a small cardboard between the PCB/HDA contacts to isolate them. Then screw in all but not tightly (not tight enough that you cannot pull out the cardboard) 2. Connect the TX and RX on the hard disk to the RX and TX of your rs232 board. 3. Connect power (red is voltage, black is ground) to the rs232 board. 4. Connect to the rs232 board using hyperterm, make sure it's set correctly 5. Now power up the drive by plugging in the power 6. At the hyperterminal window, press Enter once to connect (make sure it says connected at the bottom) 7. Nothing will happen/show up, but hit Ctrl-z now and you should see this prompt: F3 T> If you cannot get to this stage, check your rs232, cabling, check your hyperterminal. If you are using small connectors to the RX and TX on the hard disk, please make sure they are not touching one another. I used a small piece of cardboard in between the pins to make sure there are no contacts. Here are some pics of my fix. HTH. I had the arrow at first too even though I was sure I followed the terminal connections correctly; when flipped the terminals and completely removed the pcb there no problem. I want to mention I restarted hyperterminal-I didn't just flip the connections while hyperterminal was on. OK, I have the PCB off the HDA. I still get the Arrow but thats all I get now. Is this correct? Also thanks to the people that put this together but can you move your credit fight to another topic, some of us are still trying to figure this out and it's a b***h to read through the stuff for info and the who gets credit. You all get credit for this if this works!
  19. Yura's Friend, Firstly, I didn't write the initial guide - so it's not up to me to post the link. Secondly, why don't you just post the link where Yura released the information to public domain? Did that information release state the terms of it's use? e.g. must have clear link back to him? Thirdly, I'm not trying to provoke anything. If Yura and whoever else poured in hours of their personal time to find out the commands to fix this, I personally feel that they should be compensated for their time and effort. It's just a token of appreciation, I'm not talking about $100 or something like that, but I'm willing to contribute for example $5 or $10 to this. With the number of people here affected by the problem, I'm sure he will get a substantial return for all his time and effort. The $ contribution is voluntary - if one does not want to pay, it's fine as the info is public domain but for those who wants to pay - why not? Rather than pay $1000 to some stupid greedy data recovery company, I'd rather pay $5 to contribute partially to someone's time in finding out the commands to fix this. Again with the number of people affected, this person will stand to get quite a tidy sum. If this is not about money, then I really don't see why you want to raise such a fuss about the lack of a link back to the source. You've mentioned that the info was released into public domain. Sharing it out means that others can take the info, improve it, better it and make it more useful. That's the spirit of Internet collaboration and sharing. If you have a problem with this, go PM gradius2 and work it out with him. Or just do everyone a favour and post a message informing where the original info came from and end this.
  20. I agree. m0,2,2,,,,,22 -> credits to Yura and his sources. Now how can I show my gratitude? Any paypal account for me to send in some $$ perhaps? Money talks. Yura was the one who gave us the solution we're talking about in this thread. period. come on, pichi and fatlip...you already did it, but some people seem to not understand, tell them who is the one who save our data. He deserves it.
  21. perhaps you can take a photo of it and see if anyone else here is using the same board?? The board is an RS232-ttl board. No cable hooked up since I pluged it right into the RS232 port on the back on an older laptop. I tried both connections and it still just gave me jiberish on the screen. Do I need to have a cable go between the RS232 board and the computer? That is the only step that I am missing since I just pluged it directly to the computer. That board I got is an MDRS3232m Ver 1.0 The power LED lights up when I hook up the 3V to it with 2AA bateries. It's trying to communicate but when I type Control Z it just gives me garbage on the screen. The hard disk does spin up if I have power to it. Just stuck in BSY. Any ideas?
  22. You all are assuming that Dell, HP, and other large vendors are using this 7200.11 SD15 in their setup. Who knows if that is a fact? If they are not even using 7200.11 SD15, then it kinda explains why there is no big news in that space, isn't it?
  23. Please DO NOT use plastic card. Please use paper or cardboard or anything that is static free. Plastic can generate static, especially when you pull out the plastic and that may cause damage to your hard disk!
  24. Gradius2 did indicate this in his edited post : "Keep in mind I did my best to compile all this information and provide more and better details." I have seen the links he gave originally and the information provided is cryptic. Gradius2 took the info, and added value to them, even providing photos and links to where you can get the components and I believe other than the actual commands used to fix (which is just the m0,2,2,,,,,22 - the other commands were available elsewhere in the internet) - his post here has evolved to his own work. Gradius2, maybe you can consider to post the links on where you get the commands above just to shut these people mouth. I think he's doing a great job for the community and sharing all these info instead of some selfish people who want to keep all these info to themselves and charging people a ridiculous amount of money to fix this. Snap out of it, and think - if the real data recovery people are not so greedy to try and slaughter people over this stupid firmware problems (read - charge people no more than USD50 for this fix) and people might actually send the drives over to you guys to have it fixed and you will get your $$ too. If your charges are reasonable, there are people who will be willing to pay you rather than fix it themselves.
  25. I just received my RS232 board today and followed the steps given and it works perfectly! My brick is now detected and I'm evacuating all my data to my portable hard disk for backup! Then going to update the firmware on this stupid 7200.11 and then run some tests to ensure it's working before putting data back in there. I took some photos, will post them up later for reference to others. P/s : I probably don't need the USB-serial + rs232 board. Anyone interested to purchase them, please PM me (I'm located in Malaysia though...) I bought them for an equivalent of USD$15.

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