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COKEDUDEUSF

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Posts posted by COKEDUDEUSF

  1. I have a hard drive that is about to die. It is the hard drive for my OS. It has given me 7 good years so I think I got my moneys worth. I obviously want to get my data off of it. So what is the best way to do this with hopefully as little strain as possible on it? Do I want to just load the OS then straight copy and paste to an external HD or a big flash drive? I have a couple of massive flash drives. I usually use my external HD's just trying to think of all my options. Do I want to load up a live cd and copy and paste that way so there is less OS strain on the HD? Use another computer to create an image? Is there some better option I am not thinking of? 

  2. I apologize if this is something easy. I have never used a patch panel before. No matter what I try I am not able to get an internet connection through the patch panel. This is a panduit dp5e patch panel. I have tried running a cable from the router to patch panel. I have tried running a cable from the switch to the patch panel. Neither method work. I have noticed that the lights do not turn on either way. Is this patch panel supposed to have some kind of power supply for the lights? I do not see a way to plug it in. Am I missing some part I need? The router and switch both work fine.

  3. I am not able to use the Windows find. I followed this tutorial to rebuild my index. This did not help.

     

    https://www.geeksinphoenix.com/blog/post/2013/02/24/Search-for-files-and-folders-faster-in-Windows-8-with-Indexing-Options.aspx

     

    After that I followed this tutorial. This made it worse. I was able to find some files previously. Now I am not able to find any files.

     

    https://www.cnet.com/forums/discussions/windows-8-1-search-can-t-find-files-607534/

     

    What do I want to do next?

  4. What are the steps you need to take when you put an old HD in a new computer? I just did this. Every time it makes it to the windows boot screen then restarts. I have a bunch of old engineering software that is not compatible with the newer versions of windows. I figured this out after I bought a new computer and tried to add the software to a newer version of windows. So I figured I could just swap the HD's. This does not seem to be working either. Is there some way to set the new HD as a master and the old drive as a slave and boot that way maybe?

  5. On 8/18/2018 at 4:41 AM, jaclaz said:

    Check the temperature of the CPU/that the heatsink is properly connected, first thing.

    Then, if that is OK, disconnect EVERYTHING from it (and from the motherboard).

    Leave ONLY video and keyboard connected.

    Boot (actually fail to boot) and enter the BIOS.

    If it stays on on the BIOS page, switch it off and re-add (one at the time or in small groups) all the other peripherals, add-on cards, hard disk(s), CD/DVD, etc. and repeat the above boot test (without starting the OS).

    jaclaz 

     

    How do I check the temperature? The only way I know to do that is to use a program like Everest or check in the bios. It cuts off to fast for me to do that.

  6. My desktop computer is only turning on for a few seconds after that it turns off. I assumed it was the power supply so I bought another one. Last night I installed the power supply. It took awhile with me reseating everything and taking out the cmos battery to get the computer running. After that I used it for about an hour. I went home and came back to the office the next day. Unfortunately it reverted back to the behavior of only turning on for a few seconds after that it turns off. Can I please get some suggestions on what to do?

  7. On 8/3/2018 at 6:12 AM, jaclaz said:

    As a matter of fact, by copying files sequentially you reduce (or more exactly avoid creating) fragmentation on the target.

    Just for the record once upon a time NT 3.51 and NT 4.00 did not have any fragmentation utility, so it was common to copy the whole volume contents to a temporary storage, then format the original volume and copy back the whole stuff in order to have a defragmented filesystem.

    The only "issue" (if it is an issue) of doing copy and paste is that if/when you want to update the backup (and/or make "incremental" backups) you will have difficulties with overwriting existing files and/or replacing with newer ones the old ones, etc.

    If you adopt an "integral" backup strategy, that is not an issue at all of course.

    Otherwise I would suggest you the use of Robocopy (the actual command line tool has a little bit daunting sintax, but there are free GUI's for it that are very handy), examples:

    https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/2006.11.utilityspotlight.aspx

    https://archive.codeplex.com/?p=betterrobocopygui

    https://sourceforge.net/projects/roboscript/

    https://sourceforge.net/projects/robomirror/

    If you are OK with command line tools, besides Robocopy you may want to try the excellent STRARC:

    http://www.ltr-data.se/opencode.html/

    @Sal

    No prob :), it is just that imaging takes more time (and usually more space on target media) because it stores much more information, and sometimes this is not needed as in this case.

    jaclaz

     

     

    How do you copy files sequentially?

     

    Does Robocopy copy files sequentially?

  8. 19 hours ago, jaclaz said:

    Backing up is not imaging and copying is neither backing up nor imaging (or cloning).

    This very theme has been discussed to death n times on MSFN.

    Check this thread first:

    https://msfn.org/board/topic/157634-hard-disk-cloningimaging-from-inside-windows/

    Particularly this post:

    https://msfn.org/board/topic/157634-hard-disk-cloningimaging-from-inside-windows/?do=findComment&comment=1007158

    What (EXACTLY) do you want to do/need?

    jaclaz

     

     

     

    I want to backup my data. I do not care about the windows file. I just want my work, movies, and music. I have about 600 GB of work, movies, and music so a bit worried about fragmentation if I just copy and paste.

  9. On 7/19/2018 at 9:24 AM, Tripredacus said:

    There seems to be some information missing from the report... BUT it also notes the service is not available. You need to revert any changes you made in regards to the Software Licensing Protection Service, and then run the report again.

    Based just on this, it would appear that the active product key cannot unlock the OS. It will not try to activate if LocalGenuineState says anything besides Genuine. Does this computer have a Windows COA on it or does it just have the Windows 8 sticker?

    examples: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/howtotell/Hardware.aspx?tab=PCPurchase

     

    Whats a COA? I bought this Toshiba laptop at best buy so I do not understand what the problem is.

  10. On 6/28/2018 at 10:00 AM, Tripredacus said:

    Yes, it says exactly what you should run (using SLUI) to see the actual error... because some dumb reason, Slmgr can't tell you what the error is. So when you run slmgr -ato, and it says something like "On a computer running Microsoft Windows non-core edition, run slui.exe 0x00 0x00000000 to display the error text"

    If you run the exact command it says in that message, it will show you the error text which will give the answer to whatever hex code it shows you in the message. Running that command only shows you the translation of the hex code in the error and does nothing else.

    If you want to troubleshoot your activation issue, run this in an elevated command prompt and past the report.txt into here and I can take a look see.

    
    Licensingdiag.exe -report %userprofile%\desktop\report.txt -log %userprofile%\desktop\repfiles.cab

     

     

    Here it is.


     

    <DiagReport>
    <LicensingData>
      <ToolVersion>6.2.9200.16384</ToolVersion>
      <LicensingStatus>SL_LICENSING_STATUS_UNLICENSED</LicensingStatus>
      <LicensingStatusReason>0xC004F014</LicensingStatusReason>
      <LocalGenuineState>SL_GEN_STATE_INVALID_LICENSE</LocalGenuineState>
      <LocalGenuineResultP>0</LocalGenuineResultP>
      <LastOnlineGenuineResult></LastOnlineGenuineResult>
      <GraceTimeMinutes>0</GraceTimeMinutes>
      <TotalGraceDays>0</TotalGraceDays>
      <ValidityExpiration></ValidityExpiration>
      <ActivePartialProductKey>MY2MG</ActivePartialProductKey>
      <ActiveProductKeyPid2>00179-60919-86364-AAOEM</ActiveProductKeyPid2>
      <OSVersion>6.2.9200.2.00010300.0.0.101</OSVersion>
      <ProductName>Windows 8</ProductName>
      <ProcessorArchitecture>x64</ProcessorArchitecture>
      <EditionId>Core</EditionId>
      <BuildLab>9200.win8_gdr.130502-1503</BuildLab>
      <TimeZone>Eastern Standard Time(GMT-04:00)</TimeZone>
      <ActiveSkuId></ActiveSkuId>
      <ActiveSkuDescription></ActiveSkuDescription>
      <ProductUniquenessGroups></ProductUniquenessGroups>
      <ActiveProductKeyPKeyId></ActiveProductKeyPKeyId>
      <ActiveProductKeyPidEx>05426-01796-091-986364-02-1033-9200.0000-0152014</ActiveProductKeyPidEx>
      <ActiveProductKeyChannel>OEM:DM</ActiveProductKeyChannel>
      <ActiveVolumeCustomerPid></ActiveVolumeCustomerPid>
      <OfflineInstallationId></OfflineInstallationId>
      <DomainJoined>false</DomainJoined>
      <ComputerSid>S-1-5-21-4066163444-779131421-1703684211</ComputerSid>
      <ProductLCID>1033</ProductLCID>
      <UserLCID>1033</UserLCID>
      <SystemLCID>1033</SystemLCID>
      <CodeSigning>SIGNED_INFO_PRS_SIGNED</CodeSigning>
      <ServiceAvailable>false</ServiceAvailable>
      <OemMarkerVersion>0x00020001</OemMarkerVersion>
      <OemId>TOSQCI</OemId>
      <OemTableId>TOSQCI00</OemTableId>
      <Manufacturer>TOSHIBA</Manufacturer>
      <Model>Satellite P75-A</Model>
      <InstallDate>20171003050148.000000-240</InstallDate>
    </LicensingData>
    <HealthCheck>
      <Result>PASS</Result>
      <TamperedItems></TamperedItems>
    </HealthCheck>
    <GenuineAuthz>
      <ServerProps>0x80070422</ServerProps>
    </GenuineAuthz>
    </DiagReport>
    

     

  11. Does Windows 8 no longer give you the option to format your hard drive to fat32? I only see exfat and ntfs.

     

    I tried computer, right click drive, format, only saw exfat and ntfs.

     

    I tried windows + r, diskmgmt.msc, right click drive, format, only saw exfat and ntfs.

  12. 1 hour ago, BYTE-ME said:

    Not sure if it makes a difference but I use the slmgr.vbs -ipk with a dash not a slash. Are you connected to the Internet when you try to activate? Also, I usually follow up the -ipk switch with slmgr.vbs -ato to force the PC to to connect and verify the product ID. Afterwards you have to reboot or logoff for the activation message to change on the Windows System property page. Hope that helps.

     

    It still tells me to use slui.exe.

  13. I keep getting harassed to activate my Windows 8. So I do as it says. I try to activate Windows and it never works. I have a legal version of Windows that I bought from Toshiba so I don't understand what the problem is. 

     

    When I do the change pc settings, activate It says can not activate right now. 

     

    When I do this method from an elevated command prompt I get the message use slui.exe.

    Slmgr /ipk XXXXX XXXXX XXXXX XXXXX XXXXX

     

    When I use slui.exe It says can not be activated right now. 

     

     

    The two options I have found to disable this message are below. Its ridiculous that I have to do this when I have a legal version of Windows. 

     

    Open Regedit

    then go to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\sppsvc and right side select Start the right click and Modify change value to 4.

     

     

    Open Regedit. 

    Then go to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\WindowsNT\CurrentVersion \SoftwareProtectionPlatform\Activation

    In the right pane of the registry editor, you will find REG_DWORD value ‘Manual’. Right-click on it and select Modify. In the Value Data window which appears, change the DWORD value to 1.

     

    The default is 0 which means auto-activation is enabled. Changing the value to 1 will disable auto-activation.

     

    Close the Registry Editor and restart your system.

  14. I was hoping to get some ram suggestions. I want to get two, 2 GB cards of DDR2 desktop ram (a total of 4 GB's) on Amazon if possible. I am having trouble understanding the specs. Is 800 MHZ the highest you can get in DDR2 ram? What is considered top of the line in DDR2 ram? What are other important specs to check for? What are the best brands? I kind of like corsair and kingston. Why is most of the kingston stuff double the price of everything else?

    Since I am sure most people are wondering why the hell do I want a DDR2 ram it is to help my dad. He REFUSES to upgrade his computer.


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