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Posts posted by fatlip


    It is dangerous to connect to PCB while power is connected. There are other methods, such as unscrewing the top 2 or 3 screws closest to the Spindle motor and sliding in a card to kill the contacts to the motor, and then starting that way. There is also a method (pretty much the same) where you kill the contacts to the other set of connectors. If you take the PCB board off, you will see that there are two sets.

    The partition format is not a data format of your data. It is a format of the user partition stored in the firmware. Just make sure you are patient when this runs and let it go as long as it takes. I have seen anywhere from 5-10 seconds to 2 minutes.


    1 You wrote "With the POWER CONNECTED to the PCB board, as well as your TX/RX terminal wires, mount the board back on the HDA case. You must have the power connected when you do this."

    Is this dangerous for the PCB ? (why don't unplug fist the PCB and next to connect the power to the HD?)

    2. You wrote

    "F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22 <<< This command takes a little over a minute to complete!

    Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 14, Max Certify Rewrite Retries = 00C8

    User Partition Format 5% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00004339, ErrCode 00000080, Elapsed Time 0 mins 05 secs

    User Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 05 secs"

    What does it doing with this command? Is this to format the HD and lost the data. What does it mean "Partition format"?

    Many Thanks


  2. This happened to my friends drive after about 4 days. This was when the bunk firmware was released, so I didn't have a good firmware to upgrade with.

    Just a thought. Has anyone who recovered their disk from the BSY state and not upgraded the firmware experienced this problem again?

    If the problem is related to data being left by the test machine, and the solution presented here zeros the SMART log area, does this solution mitigate the original problem? Is it wiping the affected areas?

    I have 10 MX15 disks that are sitting in a bag waiting to be re-installed in a machine. It's a fingers crossed type of wait as I have no idea if any or all of them will come back up, but the reports I'm seeing on the SD/MX1A firmware appear to have other "issues" with sleep times and timeouts, while the MX15 has been ok for me. I was wondering if a pre-emptive wipe of the areas required to recover from the BSY state might prevent it from actually occurring ?

  3. I never called anyone a thief.

    Regardless of who came out with the solution first, it was the people in the hddguru forums that started all this by being totally arrogant to simple questions. This just sent many of us on a mission to find the answer and we did. I could careless who came up with the command set to do it. It isn't illegal, and is now public knowledge.

    Yeah but calling him a thief? Come on guys.

  4. Aviko,

    Removed bad comments re: aviko

    the above means in plain English, I don't care who did it before, I am old enough to stay away from flamewars, you posted a link, I read it and let you know that what you extrapolated from it was not the whole story.

    I pointed date when solutions were available to users. Of course they worked some time on it before release, but there was no way to stole it.

    Sorry for my english, as you see its not my native language.

  5. This does a scan of connected devices regardless of BIOS status.

    I should point out that other lights at the bottom can be active, but the BUSY light will always stay BUSY!

    this will work even if the hard disk is not detected in BIOS???

    --> Ok, I just tried. Mine's not showing up in BIOS and it's showing BUSY as well in this victoria utility, and DRDY and DRSC is lighted up too (BLUE).

    I tried without the faulty disk connected and I don't see any of the BUSY status lighted up.

  6. Some people have been wondering if their drive is actually suffering from the "BUSY" state problem that causes the drive not to be detected in the BIOS.

    There should be ZERO risk to your drive doing this as long as you follow the instructions!

    !!!!!Victoria is a powerful program, so do not mess around with any options other than specified, unless you really know what you are doing!!!!!

    Here is a quick and dirty guide to check if this is in fact, what has happened to your drive;

    What you need:

    1)- a functioning computer running Windows XP/2K/2003 (not sure if it works on Vista)

    2)- your "suspect" hard drive installed and hooked up to a SATA port in your PC

    3)- WinRar, or another program that can extract RAR files

    4)- Download this software - Victoria for Windows

    5)- Extract the rar file to a location you can remember "C:\Temp or C:\Victoria"

    6)- Go to the folder and execute the the "Victoria43.exe" file

    7)- Now you will see the opening screen:


    8)- Next you need to switch the program to PIO mode in the top right


    9)- Now click the PCI Scan button


    10)- You will see a list of drives listed; hopefully your bricked drive will be obvious, but go down the list and when you select the suspect drive, you will see this at the bottom:


    I hope this helps some of you actually diagnose the problem instead of "guessing".


    Addendum: I have seen drives that show as BUSY that have other issues beyond just being stuck in this state! It is a start, but not a "Be all end all" determination if you have a bricked drive.

  7. Set to PIO Mode: then click PCI Scan

    This will list all the connected drives. You will need to click through them on the left until you find the locked one.

    The light at the bottom will just stay on BUSY.

    You can use the "Passport" button on each drive until you find the one that fails to retrieve the Passport options. This will be your dead drive.

    In the Victoria Tool: I've found a drop-down list that says Port (in PIO mode) with the options Primary, Secondary and Custon, when i choose primary it doesnt let me to select it, it would set itself again to Secondary, when i click secondary it would showthe next info in the "console" below: Select secondary PORT : BASE= 170H, ALTERNATIVE =376H, and when i click custom, it would show the busy button in green and like an infinite loop in two black boxes on the bottom right, attched pictures:
  8. Awesome! Make sure once you have gotten your essentials backed up, that you upgrade the firmware, otherwise your drive can/will brick again.


    Hey guys, I finally FIXED my drive!!! The garbage characters were gone!!!

    I'm so ashamed of myself. The garbage characters were appearing because I was powering on my hdd through an external hard disk case. When I powered it though my computer PSU, I could use a PERFECTLY CLEAR terminal window.

    Bsobel, perhaps you're doing the same as me? If so, try powering on through your PSU.

    Gradius2, many thanks for your kind help!!! I'm definitely donating to you!!! It'll be a small gratitude for your help since I don't own much, but it's my sincere thanks. I'm not too familiarized with paypal, but I'll manage to do it.

    Cheers (domo arigatou gozaimas***a - I can speak a little japanese too since I'm a japanese descendant :) )

  9. Triskel,

    Download "Victoria for Windows" When you switch it to "PIO Mode" in the top right, and select your non-functioning drive, you will see the light status stuck on "BUSY" at the bottom. If it is in this state, then yes, this fix will most likely help you.


    Im not sure wether this is the appropiate topic or not (i mean, the solution).

    I have a $eagate Barracuda ST3500320AS, (500 GB), that suddenly a morning when powering on my computer would be as not detected by the bios, the problem is that the same day this happened i had shortcircuit in my home that cause the computer to shut down, so initially i though the overvoltage might have damaged my hadr drive, but by doing some research over the internet, it seems that this might be due to the firmware issue.

    My drive is not being detected, but i can hear the plates spinning, i mean, ITS ALIVE, although i dont know if the interface is working or not, or its the firmware issue... I tried to contact Seagate but not reply so far... I live in the f***ing spain where theres not even Seagate support, so even in the unlikely event that they might give free data recovery i couldn't apply...

    so my question is, with the steps in this tutorial, could i make my disk work again? Id like to boot from it directly since all my files are in NTFS and i cant access them from outside the logged user, i would have permissions if the disk were used as extenernal.

    what can i do? I would be gladly to pay to anyone who could help me out with this BIG issue.

    thanks in advance guys!

  10. Spell,

    the garbage characters are normal when you powercycle the drive.

    What you need to do now is place a card, or something non conducting under the spindle motor contacts as shown in the tutorial.


    Just one more question: my phone cable has 3 wires: TX, RX and a third one I'm not using.

    And also, my hd is being powered on by an external hdd case (i'm just using the sata power cable). Could this have anything related to the garbage characteres I'm having on hyperterminal?

  11. Kiwi,

    I am going to "claim" that I was the person who really kicked this whole quest off with pichi.

    I have never made a negative post in the hddguru forums, due to 3 reasons.

    A) What's the point?

    B) You never know when someone will extend you a helping hand

    C) I knew what the answer was going to be (Contact a DR company)

    Did the pretentious(and sometimes arrogant) attitude that the users there showed bother me? Yes, it did, however I also accepted the fact that this is their lives and living.

    The things that the hddguru forums did to kick off this quest was:

    The posting of the 0GB LBA=0 video

    Someone made a post about "3 wires and a terminal connection"

    The non-soldering option to connect to the drive

    The link to some russian sites which actually showed the command list of the 7200.11 drive, as well as many other tips.

    After I found this information, it then led to the 0GB recovery document released by Salvation Data with the Salvation fix for 7200.11 drives.

    After that, everything just snowballed until Graduis found the exact commands. I would like to say that pichi and I were close, but we really weren't. (after seeing the final command set)

    So don't get into a flamewar with them. Thank them for their useful posts, that were almost all posted in a totally arrogant "I know and you don't" fashion. They can complain all they want, but in hindsight, it all started with their forum.



    Gradius2, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

    I repaired my ST31000340AS SD15 by your tutorial.

    Circuit from http://forum.hddguru.com/tutorial-resolve-...ize-t11040.html

    was soldered and works fine.


    I did power off ONLY before the last command:

    F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22

    (This is my choice)

    I had a look at that forum and the guys over there are a bunch of pretentious w*****s.

    I vote that everyone who has successfully used this Gradius2's method (not the PCB swap method) go over there and let them know.


  12. This will work.

    This will tell you which wires are which:


    Awesome work Gradius2, can't wait to get everything I need to fix my ST3500320AS.

    I have one question & it may be a dumb one, however...

    Would a "TTL-232R Converter Cable" found here: http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/TTL-232R.htm bypass having to use most of the equipment you have suggested.

    It can be powered via USB and if I can figure out what colour the TX and RX are I'd be set.

    Of course this seems far to simple :blink:

    There are also alternate cables on that link.

  13. This works. this is the one I used.

    Also, one of the drives I unbricked would not show the terminal until the card was placed to break the contacts with the Spindle motor.

    I would turn the drive off, unscrew the 1 or two screws and place the card as shown in the tutorial, then power it up.

    Does anyone know if this Schmartboard (P/N710-0001-01) will work as the RS232 TTL adapter ?


    Tried connecting the Schmartboard on two different HD one working and one not working, and I see no output from hyperterminal.


    This is NOT a recommended method. It may have worked for the one guy here, but the logic behind it doesn't make sense.


    Try Hyperterminal>File>Properties>Options check Keys Windows (something like, I have non-english Hyperterminal).

    hello, i tried this. i did the swap did the flash to sd1a but when i plug the old pcb back to the old drive it clicks and is not recognized...

  14. Agreed, but I am "Old Skool"....

    Spankerer: Where do you live?


    The serial port cable method is more reliable than the Usb cables, but the usb to ttl adapters will work.

    The usb ones use software to pretend it is actually a serial port.

    A serial port is a serial port.....no other pc port translation's to worry about.

    It don't come much simpler than a good old fasioned serial port.

  15. Spoox,

    well i think you are very close;

    Um.... ahem: :unsure:

    Search for Active@ UNDELETE Enterprise 7.1.050.rar

    on thepiratebay.org

    That is about as far as i can take you "legally".


    PM me if you need more help.


    You have/had the "BUSY" error:

    LED:000000CC <<that is it!

    Now, it looks like you waited long enough on the:

    m0,2,2,,,,,22 command.

    This is this first we have seen of this:

    Zone re-format was skipped.

    What have you done since this? Just powered the drive off? Have you tried to connect it to the SATA port to see if the BIOS recognizes it?


    At first I waited a while and powered off the drive,

    then I connected it to SATA on a vista x64 machine, however it wouldn't boot completely, but I was pleased to see the BIOS recognized the drive.

    I rebooted and went into the Bios to see if there wasn't an LBA 0 error, there wasn't.

    Then I powered the computer down and took out the drive and put it in an external casing (SATA-USB 2) and connected it to my laptop.

    The drive was recognized instantly, and the first partition came up as it should. The second and third partition came up, but were not accesible, after a very long time windows pops up with a message to format the drive. Of course I didn't format the drive. So I was able to restore all the files on the first partition, but the others still needs some research.

  16. too funny!

    I think I was the 3rd guy down the hole!

    "Our forum is provided as a service to our users and customers and is not intended for the promotion of third party services, products, websites, or organizations."

    I laugh hard at this. The same AlanM consider the Seagate's forum it IS NOT a consumer service! He says that on a topic there.



  17. Spoox,

    You have/had the "BUSY" error:

    LED:000000CC <<that is it!

    Now, it looks like you waited long enough on the:

    m0,2,2,,,,,22 command.

    This is this first we have seen of this:

    Zone re-format was skipped.

    What have you done since this? Just powered the drive off? Have you tried to connect it to the SATA port to see if the BIOS recognizes it?


    I have

    Seagate Barracuda 7200.11

    1000 Gb


    P/N: 9FZ136 -100

    Firmware: LC15

    Date Code: 09153

    Site Code: TK

    Made in Thailand

    first it was stated at seagate it was faulty, and now it's not, however it is.

    I made an rs232--ttl adapter which works fine.

    The initial error I've got in the terminal is:

    LED:000000CC FAddr:0024CDC9
    RST 0x20M
    (P) SATA Reset

    Since i have a different firmware do I have to use the exact same as the 'CC errors aka BUSY' ?

    Because when I power down, and after 10 sec powerup the drive it shows again an 'RST 0x20M'

    Also i haven't recieved the confirmation message "User Partition Format Successful"

    I'm a bit at a loss right now...

    oh man you've had me sweating!!

    it took ages before the confirmation appeared....pfew

    but still i recieved a message that a part was skipped, the drive is now visible again, however it's freeking slow...so far only the first partition (out of three) seems to be reachable...

    to be more exact about the error:

    F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22
    Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 14, Max Certify Rewrite Retries = 00C8

    User Partition Format 4% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00004AA5, ErrCode 000
    00080, Elapsed Time 0 mins 30 secs
    User Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 30 secs
    Zone re-format was skipped.

    any suggestions?


    I have no idea if this method will work, so I can't say yes.

    I can say that the method I used here worked perfectly:

    http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showto...st&p=823633 (post 30)

    Here are the European distributors:


    Maybe you can find what you need through them?

    Feel free to PM me if you have questions/need help.


    Guys I'm so screwed! I have a

    Thesis I have to present in two week and my hard drive seagate ST3500320AS wont show up on bios since yesterday (stuck/halt in BUSY state),

    so I guess my only solution is the RS232 to TTL adapter mod but it will take about 2 weeks to get those items here so can I use data cable from a

    samsung SGH-P850 cell phone?

    Pics of my cable



  18. I wouldn't touch anything for at least 3 or 4 days after the next release and follow Seagate's forums to see if the update is actually working.

    I attempted one of my 4 drives. It didn't brick it, but as soon as it failed, I stopped and started reading... then I found that SD1A was bricking drives.. then I sat back and had a good chuckle. (at Seagate of course!)

    So when the new SD1A comes out, should I re-flash to it again? I flashed three drives (individually of course or they would not be working...) with the second release of it on Monday evening and all three drives work fine. But should I be concerned since they pulled it? My drives are 1TB.
  19. There are many ways and devices you can use to get a terminal session to your drive. The one in the post you posted will work, but I think my method is easier.


    I've got a ST31000340AS 9BX158-303 SD15 drive. Dead! When powered on the drive spins but doesn't show up on the bios or anything. My current setup is using a Nforce4 controller.

    So I tried to load my drive on a different computer (Dell E520) which has a ICH8 controller. Setting the bios to Bios Sata control instead of Raid Sata control and I can see the drive is there but it is reporting that it cant detect the size.

    I've read that many have had some success with flashing the drive if your bios can see the drive. So I boot up the fixed ISO by kju135 to flash the drive and no luck! During scan it says it cant find the drive and then shows the Power Cycles message.

    Is my only solution now to recover my data is to obtain the parts as stated in http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128807 and give it a shot?

  20. Look at my post here:

    Post #30


    This is all you need and it will take the confusion out of the voltage issue.

    Hey all,

    I have a "friend" from these boards coming over tomorrow with a bricked drive. I will get him to film the process and I'll post a video. It should make things much clearer to everyone as to the "power on/off", when and how long etc.

    If you are unsure of what you are doing, STOP NOW and wait. It will be worth it.

    Check back around 7PM MST Wednesday Jan 21st.



    Thanks fatlip. will eagerly await the video. Right now I'm understandably confused by the 5V and 3.3V and which ones I should be doing etc etc. On top of that finding that RS232 chippy thingy is harder than I thought (buying from eBay is not an option for me I live on the other side of the planet). If possible can we get a clear footage on removing the connector since that part seemed to be a delicate part of the process.

    Thanks again, you the man, man!

    You didn't do anything like sticking your HD in the freezer or anything extreme did you? Some people went to desperate measures to figure out what was up with their drive. Sadly, one suggestion out there is to stick it in the freezer.

    I seriously think you have a regular failed drive. The 1-2% normal failure rate.

    Nobody has an idea what will help against my problem described in #56 ? I can't imagine it's a hardware fault.

    It just won't regenerate the partition successfully...

    Connect the HD on terminal, you should be able to see which error is (if CC or not).


    I don't get the CC message, but the method of "unbricking" 0LBA-drives does not work. Seems like I have to wait for any news or for an answer from Seagate.

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