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poolcarpet

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Posts posted by poolcarpet

  1. Hi all,

    I have a set of the ttl adapter and usb-serial cable which I used to fix mine. I don't have any use for it anymore and it's sitting gathering dust, so if anyone wants a set to fix their hard disk, I can sell my set, say for USD10 or equivalent excluding postage. Message me if you are interested. I'm located in KL, Malaysia. Here's a photo of the set, along with 2 cables I salvaged from old PC for connection to the PC power source (use the floppy drive molex adapter) and for connecting to the hard disk TX and RX.

    Update: 28/July - sorry the parts are sold. for those who can buy from ebay, try looking there. i bought the key component from ebay, then just get any rs232-usb cable you can get from your local pc shop (cost about RM20 or USD6). a tip, search for "max232" in ebay, e.g.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/MAX232-RS232-To-TTL-Co...id=p3286.c0.m14

    I bought it from this seller virtualvillage back in Jan 2009. good luck!

    post-225669-1248144832_thumb.jpg

  2. Hi,

    Read the steps and instructions carefully. UPPERCASE and lowercase results in different results. Here's an example for you (from my own successful fix)

    F3 T>/2

    F3 2>z

    LED:000000CC FAddr:0025BF67

    LED:000000CC FAddr:0025BF67

    F3 T>/2

    F3 2>Z

    Spin Down Complete

    Elapsed Time 0.128 msecs

    So in your case, you should be doing the /2 and Z to spin down the drive, then remove papercard and spin up and follow the rest of the instructions.

    Good luck!!

    Hello guys im totally frustraded...i have but a papercard in my hdd and the spin motor doesnt spin (so it is right).

    Then when i press ctrl + Z in hyperterminal following shows up:

    F3 T>

    LED: 000000CC FAddr: 0025BF67

    LED: 000000CC FAddr: 0025BF67

    what i doing wrong??????

  3. I'm so happy I learnt a new language here!!

    VAI-TE FUDER SEAGATE!

    VAI-TE FUDER SEAGATE!

    VAI-TE FUDER SEAGATE!

    Hellow my friends, finally solved my problem, and below i will explain how to i solved the problem step by step.

    First, thanks all users of this forum to contribute every day to help us all to this big problem of the Seagate discs that neither the technical nor Seagate wanted to help us more. Thank you all now. Thanks to spellcasterbr across personal assistance, Thanks Gradius2 to the great topic and all the help to all us, Thanks to aviko to the careful and correct the code for the better.

    I hope this forum, this topic and this post help all victims of this serious problem.

    I have a Seagate Barracuda ST3500320AS.

    I bought a nokia original CA-42 cable, i cut the cable, the cable was 5 wires of 5 colors, yellow, blue, white, green, orange.

    My cable is CA-42 but in fact more similar to the DKU-5 internally.

    http://buffalo.nas-central.org/index.php/U...RM9_Linkstation

    The TX is the white cable and the RX is the green cable.

    The cable I bought did not have drivers then the drivers found here:

    http://www.planete-nokia.com/phpBB2/lofive...php/t35412.html

    I Follow the instructions on how to proceed in the post of Gradius2:

    http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?s=&amp...st&p=828228

    But i used the codes of aviko:

    http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?s=&amp...st&p=832794

    Followed carefully step by step.

    After i recover the hard disk, the first thing i did was update the firmware:

    http://seagate.custkb.com/seagate/crm/self...&NewLang=en

    And finally back again my hard disk as if nothing ever had happened.

    Thanks to all for the support... and... f*** YOU SEAGATE! WESTERN DIGITAL FOREVER! (in Portuguese: VAI-TE FUDER SEAGATE!) :realmad:

  4. hallwal,

    Use Seagate Seatools to do short/long DST/generic tests. See if those passes.

    If those fails, then use the Seatools for DOS (create a bootable CD from the iso in Program FilesSeagateSeatools - or something like that) and use the DOS version to do a long test. The DOS version allows you to fix any problems found.

    HTH.

    Guys, any ideas how I could get my data back, while I still have the chance? It shows in BIOS, The DataRecovery progs can see it, it's just, when they scan certain sectors, boom, hard drive goes to failsafe and just locks it self, till the next power-up. Active@ Unerase , GetDataBack, They see the files, I just need to tell them somehow to skip dead sectors. Anybody know if there is a software to map the Bad Sec's?

    Any luck?

    I am having the same problem! My 1TB Seagate died last summer after 2 months of use; BIOS recognized as 0 GB, "fixed" a few days ago using RS232-TTL commands outlined here.

    XP now lists the drive (but not the volume name), but system runs slow and if I try to click on the recovered drive, explorer locks up. I've been using FileRescue Professional (overkill, lesser version would work as well), and I have successfully recovered some data, BUT -- the slightest hiccup such as a bad sector will render the drive completely unreadable by data recovery programs, etc until I reboot.

    Rebooting with this drive attached takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Is there any program that will skip the bad sectors or something without disabling the drive??

    OR Is it possible to reset the drive without rebooting? Maybe a software method or perhaps disconnecting and reconnecting the sata power cable?

    PLEASE HELP! :blink:

    BTW, whoever said this is not a big problem because the major vendors are not affected - please check your facts again.

    Look here:

    http://support.dell.com/support/topics/glo...;l=en&s=gen

    Even more important is you see this right on the homepage on http://support.dell.com -> Hot Topics -> Seagate Drive Inaccessible

  5. maxjix,

    congrats. it looks exactly as how i did as well to fix mine.

    have you updated to SD1A? if no, can you do a quick check using seagate seatools short/long dst/generic tests and see if those pass? If yes, then it's fine. After you update to SD1A, check again with seatools and see if those pass. In my case, I updated to SD1A immediately after copying out data, and then seatools gave me failure in the dst/generic tests.

    If no, check out my post below - you will need to use Seatools for DOS to do a long test to 'fix' some of the issues.

    http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?s=&amp...st&p=833298

    Congratulations!

    I love everyone

    I success. and I take the my family pic & working folder

    so much thanks !!!!

    my experience:

    typing slow each command line !! fast typing make 0000ce error

    and I fix some confusing command.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    On terminal you'll see nothing, just press CTRL+Z. And you'll get F3 T> prompt.

    With PCB disconnected from HDA with a paper card (or similar), you'll see:

    On terminal press CTRL+Z:

    F3 T>

    (Wait 5sec)

    F3 T>/2

    (Wait 5sec)

    F3 2>Z (not small z)

    Spin Down Complete

    Elapsed Time 0.147 msecs

    F3 2>

    (Wait 5sec)

    remove the paper card, this will connect the PCB to HDA (spin motor), but since is in Spin Down state (from cmd), you'll feel nothing.

    Now screw just enough to make a good contact between PCB and HDA (be real careful here, don't drop the screw, just be calm, relax!).

    Then press CTRL+Z again:

    F3 T>

    (Wait 5sec)

    F3 T>/2

    (Wait 5sec)

    F3 2>U

    Spin Up Complete

    Elapsed Time 7.457 secs (if you get this msg you did everything fine until here)

    F3 2>/1

    (Wait 5sec)

    F3 1>N1

    (Wait 5sec)

    F3 1>/T

    (Wait 5sec)

    F3 T> <<< At this step you'll need to POWER OFF your HD for 10sec, and then POWER ON again. By power off, remove the SATA power (not PCB!).

    When done, press CTRL+Z.

    F3 T>

    F3 T>i4,1,22

    F3 T>

    F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22 <<< This command takes a little over a minute to complete!

    Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 14, Max Certify Rewrite Retries = 00C8

    User Partition Format 5% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00004339, ErrCode 00000080, Elapsed Time 0 mins 05 secs

    User Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 05 secs

    F3 T>

    ------------------------------------------

  6. Kador,

    I've followed Gradius2's first post to fix mine. It works FOR ME. period.

    It seems that aviko knows a lot more and comments that some of the commands are dangerous, etc, etc. It may be true. And I may have been really lucky not to have lost my data.

    But in the end, it works for me. Look at my latest post on the Seatools though, encountered some issues but is now fixed.

    [cut]

    A noticeable thing is that, now, Gradius and Aviko solutions are quite the same. Don't be confused, the only difference is that Aviko removed the command i4,1,22 because, as he explained, it isn't essential and it can damage data on the drive in some cases. He also added other commands for testing purposes only (F712,F,,22).

    Hello

    I have 2 drives bricked : one 7200.11 and one ES.2

    I tried to contact seagate for 10 days, and got anything but professional responses (I have a ton of seagates drives, those guys just don't want to keep their customers, one day they will pay for that).

    I've read all the stuff on that topic. The 2 solutions are nearly identical, but the differences are not only the ones you list : one isolates the heads, one the motor, and that is pretty much a difference.

    I just need a working solution, period.

    The aviko one, taking in account only the commands, seems to be less disruptive, but I really don't know which part should be isolated, motor or heads. It's impossible to get the truth between 2 people whose words to each other are insults and "you are all wrong".

    Why do they fight like that ? The only result of all this will be in people's mind : "DO NOT TRUST DATA RECOVERY COMPANIES, THEY'LL TRY TO FOOL YOU IN SAYING THAT THE COMPETITOR IS LYING".

  7. Hi all,

    Ok, something new I've found out - maybe the rest of you can check/test. After I've followed the first post to fix my hard disk (by isolating PCB/HDA, then issue commands spin down, up, F3 T>i4,1,22 then power cycle, then m0,2,2,,,,,22) - I've also updated the firmware to SD1A, formatted it in Windows, and ran a checkdisk/surface scan. All looks ok. In fact I could access the data, copy them out, copy data in, access, apparently no issues.

    Then I tried to use Seatools to run the SMART check, short/long DST, short/long generic, and the SMART check passed but not the short/long DST/generic tests. Those failed. I'm not sure if those failed because we erased the G-list or because of the SD1A firmware or maybe it's unique to my hard disk. So I did some googling, and then tried to use the Seatools for DOS (it comes with Seatools for Windows, just burn the ISO in 'C:\Program Files\Seagate\SeaTools for Windows' into a CD and boot from it) and ran the long DST from there. It prompted me to repair one particular LBA (after running for few hours test!) and then it looks ok now.

    I've checked in Seatools for Windows and short/long DST/generic tests are passing now. I'm attaching two photos for reference. Now at least it's confirmed Seatools is reporting all ok and I'm using freeware Active Hard Disk Monitor to monitor the hard disk s.m.a.r.t. attributes to ensure i don't see any increasing values.

    Hope this helps!

    post-225669-1233786304_thumb.jpg

    post-225669-1233786615_thumb.jpg

  8. aviko,

    like i said :

    "Note that I am NO data recovery expert, I DO NOT work with s***gate hard disks daily, and I KNOW NUTS ABOUT THE COMMANDS above, but I know they fixed my crap 7200.11.

    I'm just posting the above as a reference, based on my experience using the 1st post to fix my hard disk. I've completed copying out all my data and now am using it (after upgrade to SD1A) but am very cautious about it."

    I'm sure you know much much more than me. I admit I know probably 1 on a scale of 0-100. I've noticed that you have posted really a lot of comments and fixes. As someone has mentioned, we are a bunch of victims who are trying to salvage their data at a relatively low cost. If you are so certain, as someone has mentioned, why don't you start a new post with step by step fix like Gradius2's post? His guide may not be 100%, and in fact it may cause data loss - but he's trying his best and he already has the WARNINGS in red at the beginning of his guide.

    Let everyone decide which guide to follow and credit can be given where it's due. What you are doing now is just confusing everyone with your techno-speak and techno-questions.

    Ok, just as reference to others. I followed the 1st post and fixed my hard disk. Below are details:

    Do you some interest it that others will repeat mistakes? I noticed many times where are weak points of this tutorial.

    1. Power off everything

    2. Unscrew PCB from HDA, put cardboard to isolate the 4 contacts (i think it was 4)

    so you think bad, motor has 3 contacts. when you isolate motor, you will not hear when its powered, safer is to isolate heads connector. when power up drive just wait to motor stops, if you rush at this step you got LED 00000CE error on terminal.

    F3 T>i4,1,22

    F3 T>

    8. After the above, I waited a while (few minutes) and then powered off the hard disk (remove and reseat the hard disk power cable from PC)

    Imagine how hard disk work: reference

    A G-list is a "growth" defect table. As sectors become bad over time, they are added to the G-list, and reads and writes are automatically redirected (remapped) to spare sectors. G-list sectors do slow down drive access, and if the G-list is filling up, it is time to replace the drive.

    If your drive has any bad sectors on g-list it means data which belongs to them is somewhere else. When you clear it, all information about remapped sectors will be lost (and data in them). If you dont have any bad sectors in glist why need to clearing it?

    powering off/on drive or waiting (with growing level of adrenaline) at this point is not necessary. just relax and send last command. I suggest to type F,,22 before, then without powering off m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 (difference is simple: if you dont specify parameter it will be used with defaults which is not the best option. 0 means no unnecessary rewriting. (Its funny because Gradius2 in solution for 0lba wrote (copied and pasted) m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 but when doing exactly same operation but in BSY solution gives different command: m0,2,2,,,,,22 ) guess why

  9. Ok, just as reference to others. I followed the 1st post and fixed my hard disk. Below are details:

    1. Power off everything

    2. Unscrew PCB from HDA, put cardboard to isolate the 4 contacts (i think it was 4)

    3. Power up hard disk using power from PC

    4. Use hyperterminal -> Ctrl-Z

    5. Issue the /2 and Z commands

    F3 T>/2

    F3 2>Z

    Spin Down Complete

    Elapsed Time 0.128 msecs

    6. Remove the cardboard isolation. Screw in all remaining screws to secure PCB to HDA.

    7. Issue the rest of the commands

    F3 2>U

    Spin Up Complete

    Elapsed Time 6.736 secs

    F3 2>/1

    F3 1>N1

    F3 1>/T

    F3 T>i4,1,22

    F3 T>

    8. After the above, I waited a while (few minutes) and then powered off the hard disk (remove and reseat the hard disk power cable from PC)

    9. Issue the final command

    F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22

    Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 14, Max Certify Rewr

    ite Retries = 00C8

    User Partition Format 4% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00004339, ErrCode 000

    User Partition Format 4% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00008DED, ErrCode 000

    00080, Elapsed Time 0 mins 10 secs

    User Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 10 secs

    F3 T>

    The above took much longer than expected. I think in my case it took at least 2-4 minutes. As the 1st post says, NO MATTER WHAT, please DO NOT POWER OFF the hard disk after you've keyed in m0,2,2..... really have no idea what might happen.

    Note that I am NO data recovery expert, I DO NOT work with s***gate hard disks daily, and I KNOW NUTS ABOUT THE COMMANDS above, but I know they fixed my crap 7200.11.

    I'm just posting the above as a reference, based on my experience using the 1st post to fix my hard disk. I've completed copying out all my data and now am using it (after upgrade to SD1A) but am very cautious about it.

    Actually I don't really have much confidence in it and I might go get a WD hard disk and leave this as paperweight or I might just film myself hammering it to bits and posting the video on youtube :P

  10. Just shut up aviko. Your attitude is unacceptable and it's got nothing to do with English as a native language. Many people here does not have English as their native language but it's common decency and respect for others.

    To the rest, please just IGNORE his rants and we will get on with the topic, which is solving/improving the fix for this 7200.11. IGNORING is the best way to shut him/her out, replying will just continue to encourage him to troll around and add more replies.

    Personally, I think the solution is simple enough to perform already - but I salute Gradius for trying to work out a one button fix.

    I never called anyone a thief.

    You not but guy above already said something about stealing code from acelabs. Thats really sad. What can I say? We are sad nation at all. The only thing that we know is how to steal and of course we dont like when someone steal from us.

  11. if the data is important, cannot be reproduced, you better back it up. never know what may happen. for example, if a power failure happens during the firmware update - you might be staring at a brick. good luck!

    Do I have to backup my 1tb hard disk before I update the firm ware? Anyone failed using the update for 1tb sd15 firmware?

    TIA

    Regards

    Leigh

  12. looks correct, but can never be sure.

    i bought this and it worked for me.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/MAX232-RS232-To-TTL-Co...93%3A1|294%3A50

    Looking at yours, it should work as well.

    Are you drawing power from one of your PC's connector? Try the small power socket normally meant for floppy drives. Connect the red wire to VCC and black wire to GND on your rs232. Then make sure TXD on it goes to RX on 7200.11 and RXD on it goes to TX on 7200.11. Also the rs232 you bought seem to have power indicators, does the blue light come on when you apply power to it??

    On a hunch, I hooked up another drive that I knew was good. Another Seagate and I got the same errors. I suspect that the RS232-TTL connector that I bought off ebay is bad. Going back to the start and buying the parts from the parts list in the first post that we know work.

    Also, this is the setup I purchased. Is this the right one?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-Serial-Port-To-T...1QQcmdZViewItem

    post-225669-1233474743_thumb.jpg

  13. i think you may have covered this, but are you sure you have power going to the rs232?? try all the com ports and none of them work? what about RX and TX? make sure they are connected correctly. RX on rs232 to TX on hard disk and vice versa.

    Maybe take a photo of your setup and see if we can spot anything out of the ordinary?

    Hi

    I then review the situation did several tests the terminal does not receive any command :angel .

    the cable and I'm using a serial cable and com 2 does not exist

    There are doors com 1 and com 3 is shown with the com 1 and com 3

    When do the command ctrl z nothing happens I have tried both with the paper (Visit ticket) is not the terminal does not see anything.

    Going into property of the resources of the computer hardware settings I also tried to change the com port 1 and put on the out com 2

    terminal does not respond to the ctrl z :realmad: .

    help me plase!

    sorry for my english its very bad B)

    Tristano_74

  14. Has anyone fixed their hard disk and updated to SD1A firmware? Those who have done so, can you check in Seagate Sea Tools, does the long DST fail? Mine is failing the long DST test, but the disk is working fine. Managed to format to 100%, managed to do surface scan in Windows XP as well and looks all ok. Just wondering if any one else is failing long DST too.

    Thanks!

  15. see the photo with the white piece of paper. once you open the pcb, you can see there are about 3 or was it 4 contacts. isolate that section.

    anyway, i think you should get a response regardless of whether you isolate or not. if you are connecting to the hard disk without isolation and you don't get the prompt, something is wrong with your connectivity or the rs232.

    Do I want to isolate the motor contacts or all contacts on the PCB?
  16. Ok, here's what I did -

    1. With power off, unscrew the PCB from the HDA. Place a small cardboard between the PCB/HDA contacts to isolate them. Then screw in all but not tightly (not tight enough that you cannot pull out the cardboard)

    2. Connect the TX and RX on the hard disk to the RX and TX of your rs232 board.

    3. Connect power (red is voltage, black is ground) to the rs232 board.

    4. Connect to the rs232 board using hyperterm, make sure it's set correctly

    5. Now power up the drive by plugging in the power

    6. At the hyperterminal window, press Enter once to connect (make sure it says connected at the bottom)

    7. Nothing will happen/show up, but hit Ctrl-z now and you should see this prompt:

    F3 T>

    If you cannot get to this stage, check your rs232, cabling, check your hyperterminal. If you are using small connectors to the RX and TX on the hard disk, please make sure they are not touching one another. I used a small piece of cardboard in between the pins to make sure there are no contacts. Here are some pics of my fix.

    HTH.

    I got a new controller, same output in the terminal:

    just an arrow.

    Plz, can anyone help me? :)

    Thx

    Jason

    I had the arrow at first too even though I was sure I followed the terminal connections correctly; when flipped the terminals and completely removed the pcb there no problem. I want to mention I restarted hyperterminal-I didn't just flip the connections while hyperterminal was on.

    OK, I have the PCB off the HDA. I still get the Arrow but thats all I get now. Is this correct? Also thanks to the people that put this together but can you move your credit fight to another topic, some of us are still trying to figure this out and it's a b***h to read through the stuff for info and the who gets credit.

    You all get credit for this if this works!

    post-225669-1233427991_thumb.jpg

    post-225669-1233428005_thumb.jpg

    post-225669-1233428051_thumb.jpg

  17. Yura's Friend,

    Firstly, I didn't write the initial guide - so it's not up to me to post the link.

    Secondly, why don't you just post the link where Yura released the information to public domain? Did that information release state the terms of it's use? e.g. must have clear link back to him?

    Thirdly, I'm not trying to provoke anything. If Yura and whoever else poured in hours of their personal time to find out the commands to fix this, I personally feel that they should be compensated for their time and effort. It's just a token of appreciation, I'm not talking about $100 or something like that, but I'm willing to contribute for example $5 or $10 to this. With the number of people here affected by the problem, I'm sure he will get a substantial return for all his time and effort. The $ contribution is voluntary - if one does not want to pay, it's fine as the info is public domain but for those who wants to pay - why not? Rather than pay $1000 to some stupid greedy data recovery company, I'd rather pay $5 to contribute partially to someone's time in finding out the commands to fix this. Again with the number of people affected, this person will stand to get quite a tidy sum.

    If this is not about money, then I really don't see why you want to raise such a fuss about the lack of a link back to the source. You've mentioned that the info was released into public domain. Sharing it out means that others can take the info, improve it, better it and make it more useful. That's the spirit of Internet collaboration and sharing.

    If you have a problem with this, go PM gradius2 and work it out with him. Or just do everyone a favour and post a message informing where the original info came from and end this.

    @poolcarpet, are you trying to provoke or something? I just wrote about one simple link, nothing more. The information was released by YURA into public domain to be shared for free - how can we charge anything for it?! Yura shared information he gathered during long nights spent working with 7200.11, he deserves some credit - why do you instantly think about money?! Just link to the source - that's all.
  18. I agree.

    m0,2,2,,,,,22 -> credits to Yura and his sources.

    Now how can I show my gratitude? Any paypal account for me to send in some $$ perhaps? Money talks.

    Gradius2 did indicate this in his edited post :

    "Keep in mind I did my best to compile all this information and provide more and better details."

    I have seen the links he gave originally and the information provided is cryptic. Gradius2 took the info, and added value to them, even providing photos and links to where you can get the components and I believe other than the actual commands used to fix (which is just the m0,2,2,,,,,22 - the other commands were available elsewhere in the internet) - his post here has evolved to his own work. Gradius2, maybe you can consider to post the links on where you get the commands above just to shut these people mouth.

    I think he's doing a great job for the community and sharing all these info instead of some selfish people who want to keep all these info to themselves and charging people a ridiculous amount of money to fix this. Snap out of it, and think - if the real data recovery people are not so greedy to try and slaughter people over this stupid firmware problems (read - charge people no more than USD50 for this fix) and people might actually send the drives over to you guys to have it fixed and you will get your $$ too. If your charges are reasonable, there are people who will be willing to pay you rather than fix it themselves.

    I noticed that even a link to yura's website disappeared from the first post. Now, when the link is deleted, somebody called Gradius2 can take the honours and say that this is his method, his work and his idea. What's the truth, Gradius2? You found yura's website with google and it was the only one with the solution in the whole internet at the time. You took his work and published as yours. Is that fair? Just have some dignity and, at least, put the link back.

    And one more thing - you said that you spoke with yura and he was rude. You didn't speak with him at all. Offending somebody just to steal his work is not a good way to make contacts.

    Regards from Poland and Lithuania.

    Yura was the one who gave us the solution we're talking about in this thread. period.

    come on, pichi and fatlip...you already did it, but some people seem to not understand, tell them who is the one who save our data.

    He deserves it.

  19. perhaps you can take a photo of it and see if anyone else here is using the same board??

    I just fixed mine and I had no problems. Makre sure your hyperterminal is correct:

    1. Make sure you are connecting to correct COM port

    2. Make sure settings are correct - refer to screenshot given here:

    http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?s=&amp...st&p=828228

    If it still doesn't work - then I guess you need to check your TTL board.

    The board is an RS232-ttl board. No cable hooked up since I pluged it right into the RS232 port on the back on an older laptop. I tried both connections and it still just gave me jiberish on the screen.

    Do I need to have a cable go between the RS232 board and the computer? That is the only step that I am missing since I just pluged it directly to the computer.

    That board I got is an MDRS3232m Ver 1.0

    The power LED lights up when I hook up the 3V to it with 2AA bateries.

    It's trying to communicate but when I type Control Z it just gives me garbage on the screen.

    The hard disk does spin up if I have power to it. Just stuck in BSY.

    Any ideas?

  20. You all are assuming that Dell, HP, and other large vendors are using this 7200.11 SD15 in their setup. Who knows if that is a fact? If they are not even using 7200.11 SD15, then it kinda explains why there is no big news in that space, isn't it?

    Didn't see that one - I was Googling for Dell, HP, Seagate, firmware etc. and didn't get anything intresting back. I see the Dell forum thread you posted was actually started by Oliver.HH and he subsequently posted a reply with Dell's firmware fix. This is apparently just for the ST3500620AS. What's up with that, Oliver.HH? It almost looks like they had no idea about the problem until recently. Did Dell support have anything to say?

    Looking at the HP site, I can only find a single unanswered post here regarding the problem.

    On one hand, I can't believe this problem is 'as big' with OEM drives considering a single post on either forum about the problem. On the other hand, it wouldn't be hard to imagine Dell or HP treadmill support farms missing such a widespread problem - they just send out another drive under warranty whenever anyone calls about a bricked drive and the OEMs return the old one to Seagate for credit. With all the drives they have out there, you would expect them to have recognized the problem months ago and worked out the firmware issues with Seagate. Is it possible that they simply have not recognized a pattern yet? Or is it an extremely rare issue on OEM drives?

    I guess I'm really confused, now.

  21. Please DO NOT use plastic card. Please use paper or cardboard or anything that is static free. Plastic can generate static, especially when you pull out the plastic and that may cause damage to your hard disk!

    As we said we did follow the procedure of Gradius2, but the tricky part: remounting the PCB on the disk with power on, we did

    a little bit different.

    We mounted the PCB with all the screws (but 2) from the beginning, but did insert a plastic card between the PCB and the disk;

    so the contacts below the PCB were isolated. The mounting of the PCB in Phase 2 of Gradius2 procedure simple consists of

    removing the plastic card.

    post-229854-1233317490_thumb.jpg

  22. Gradius2 did indicate this in his edited post :

    "Keep in mind I did my best to compile all this information and provide more and better details."

    I have seen the links he gave originally and the information provided is cryptic. Gradius2 took the info, and added value to them, even providing photos and links to where you can get the components and I believe other than the actual commands used to fix (which is just the m0,2,2,,,,,22 - the other commands were available elsewhere in the internet) - his post here has evolved to his own work. Gradius2, maybe you can consider to post the links on where you get the commands above just to shut these people mouth.

    I think he's doing a great job for the community and sharing all these info instead of some selfish people who want to keep all these info to themselves and charging people a ridiculous amount of money to fix this. Snap out of it, and think - if the real data recovery people are not so greedy to try and slaughter people over this stupid firmware problems (read - charge people no more than USD50 for this fix) and people might actually send the drives over to you guys to have it fixed and you will get your $$ too. If your charges are reasonable, there are people who will be willing to pay you rather than fix it themselves.

    I noticed that even a link to yura's website disappeared from the first post. Now, when the link is deleted, somebody called Gradius2 can take the honours and say that this is his method, his work and his idea. What's the truth, Gradius2? You found yura's website with google and it was the only one with the solution in the whole internet at the time. You took his work and published as yours. Is that fair? Just have some dignity and, at least, put the link back.

    And one more thing - you said that you spoke with yura and he was rude. You didn't speak with him at all. Offending somebody just to steal his work is not a good way to make contacts.

    Regards from Poland and Lithuania.

  23. I just received my RS232 board today and followed the steps given and it works perfectly! My brick is now detected and I'm evacuating all my data to my portable hard disk for backup!

    Then going to update the firmware on this stupid 7200.11 and then run some tests to ensure it's working before putting data back in there.

    I took some photos, will post them up later for reference to others.

    P/s : I probably don't need the USB-serial + rs232 board. Anyone interested to purchase them, please PM me (I'm located in Malaysia though...) I bought them for an equivalent of USD$15.



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