Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by BetKing
-
-
Want to hear something really funny? Or nice. I actually saved a hare (bunny) from a Fox the other
night. When the fox saw me it ran away, and the hare was saved.
I wish I had taken a picture of it all, but even then, it was too dark.
0 -
Tell you later how it works out.
Please keep us updated!
Greetz,
Peter.
Ok, here goes. Just tried it now I have all the details sorted out, and this is how it went.
Need I say more?
One ST3500620AS OEM Dell (DE12 Firmware) now "fixed":
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
User Partition Format 5% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00004339, ErrCode 000
00080, Elapsed Time 0 mins 05 secs
User Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 05 secs
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I give the Pololu 23201a Serial Adapter A+++ grade. The price was €9.27 + VAT and shipping (kit, you had to solder it together).
Thanks guys! Keep up the good work/advice.
0 -
Yeah, sorry about that, I kinda missed the (3 - 5.5V) thing on the Pololu.
I was however more certain that I would want to ground that pin, was just curious why he hadn't done that in the guide.
0 -
I read through what I quoted, ofc. But I was just wondering if someone had a better explanation, that's all.
Well, now I know, I'm going to cover both of them with cardstock. Method #3.
If you don't have any problems, you can always make some.
0 -
The converter doesn't "out" ANYTHING on the Vcc (Vcc is the power input of the converter)
It's signal levels (TX) are in the LOWER TTL range if powered at around 3V, which is the one documented to work. (again read READ-ME-FIRST), point # 11) in this case.
A known exception is this specific board:http://www.sparkfun....products_id=449
that switches output levels autosensing the voltage you power it with, thus you need for this a voltage around 3 V for this to work properly.
Read this also:
http://www.msfn.org/...=128807&st=2330
http://www.msfn.org/...=128807&st=2332
jaclaz
Yes, I realize that you power the Vcc from external PSU or such. But, isn't Carter (the guy that made the guide above) using the +5 V of the old PSU Molex plugs, and not ~ 3,3? As I see it, he taps it of the Molex to SATA power adapter.
Another thing, why isn't he connecting the third pin (from the right), next to the RX pin to ground, like a lot of others here seem to do? Is it enough to connect GND to the power of the SATA adapter on the right (blue rectangular on the pic)?
Just trying to be 110% sure of things before I sink my teeth into the beef, so to speak.
0 -
I just bought this converter. On the first page on the photo from the whole setup up there isn`t any SATA-powercable connected to the HDD. This is, why i am a bit confused.
That "converter" outs 2.8 volt on the Vcc? Is that sufficent?
0 -
I today received a Pololu 23201a Serial Adapter that seems to be a nice choice,
That looks like a good choice indeed and you will certainly be able to "Talk" to the drive
using it, however don't forget to externally supply power to this board between the VCC-
and GND-lines
I'm not quite sure what you mean, I'm going to follow the guide and it has 4 wires going from the board to the PCB of
the 7200.11, and it's also using a normal molex HDD-power connector.
But this with power between Vcc and GND. Hmm..
0 -
No I mean that in one guide he covers the connecting terminals "under" the PCB to the left and in the other guide it's the connectors to the center.
Here you see them both:
He also writes, quote:
(Note: Some guides on the web have suggested insulating the *other* set of contacts (the "head" contacts) you see in the lower left of the above photo to the right. I tried this originally and it didn't work for me but obviously others have had some success with it. In *my* case, with 1TB model drives, I can assure you that insulating the slightly easier to access motor contacts worked where the head contacts method didn't. I suspect the specific model of your drive will account for the varying levels of the results so if one way doesn't work for you, think about trying the other. You'll know to look here if the HyperTerminal session won't allow you to spin down the drive and continues to give you the BSY error in reply - "LED:01...blah blah blah". If you're allowed to spin down the drive, then this bit isn't your issue.)
Was just wondering if anybody knew why, and so on. More than just a random trial and error.
0 -
Just a quick question here. Why is it that some guides covers the connectors from the PCB at the front and some guides covers
the connectors on the left back? Like if you watch the youtube video vs the guide from mapleleafmountain.com.
Just a thing I noticed. Or do I have to read through all the pages of the threads here to find out?
Ok, I wont bore you with more dull questions.
0 -
Now that I've fixed my drive, I'm looking for the firmware update. The drive came out of a Lacie, so Seagate says they won't help me (ridiculous). Lacie hasn't responded yet.
Does anyone have the firmware update for my drive? Its information: ST3500620AS, firmware LC11.
I would greatly appreciate getting a copy of this so I don't have to deal with either company's customer service.
So you also have the ST3500620AS, and you managed to get it working with this fix. This gives me hope.
I today received a Pololu 23201a Serial Adapter that seems to be a nice choice, for this fix. I am slowing working up, soldering,
connecting to have a go at it.
Tell you later how it works out.
0 -
I think we are now observing a phenomenon that is unfortunate. People with different versions of the firmware or with slightly different symptoms are coming to this site and trying the fix and when it doesn't work, they are posting for a solution.
I guess it's pointless (as much as these HD fails are unfortunate).
I tried to convey this same message n times, but it simply does not "pass-through".
http://www.msfn.org/...=128807&st=2690
http://www.msfn.org/...=128807&st=2535
http://www.msfn.org/...=128807&st=1770
I do understand (and sympathize with ) people having problems with their hard disks and that are looking for a solution, but, once again, this is NOT the miracle cure for ANY disease of ANY hard disk.
This fix has mostly been used on the 7200.11 ST3500320AS and ST3500340AS drives, I don't know 500GB, 750GB or so. With the SD-Firmware. However there have been reports of some people getting this fix to work on OEM drives with the HP-Firmware as well. That is why I am trying to figure out if my ST3500620AS with the Dell DE11 firmware would work with this fix.
Just an idea.
0 -
Greg, check this one out:
0 -
Yeah, I guess in MSFN people deny the existence of any other company different from Microsoft. I see now.
And the fact that apple's computers these days are identical to pcs? Apple really fell from grace for me, when they sold out and started using Intels.
0 -
Capille, the manufacture date on your disc is 2nd Jan 2009, 2009-01-02. You can find sites to calculate the date with online.
Até logo. B)
0 -
I just saw this for sale, at an online auction site, is this an OEM that has been repaired? Or what is it?
0 -
9QM6****:ST3500620AS:9BX144-033:DE12:09103:2008-09-09:KRATSG:2008-09-25:2010-03-28:OEM:BetKing:Sweden:(no detect bios):Vista Business OEM x64:LiteOn 350W Dell Vostro 410 (still works fine)
Adding my disk to your list.
0 -
Just a quick question guys. Someone I talked to over here that had this problem with his 7200.11 disk, went out and bought another one, working. Maybe the
new one even had a newer firmware. Switched the PCB on the disks and got the disk working. Is this possible here too, or did he have a non-working PCB?
Would that method work, or does the problem lie elsewhere?
0 -
I have a Seagate ST3500620AS OEM drive with firmware DE12, it comes from a Dell that is not seeing the drive in BIOS.
Has anyone tried these methods with a drive like this? Seems really tricky doing this, first time.
0
The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs
in Hard Drive and Removable Media
Posted
The PSU I used and have been using, and it's almost 20 years old (15-16), but I dare you to say it's not any good. It was built in "the good old days".
It's been through hell and back, and still works 110%