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Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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Ah well, the 11 clicks are in jargon called "click of death". :(

 

There is simply nothing :no: that you can do with a simple converter, nor through PCB swapping, which SHOULD NOT EVEN BE THOUGHT OF (unless you transplant or backup and restore the firmware) see:

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/150215-dont-even-think-of-swapping-pcbs-on-720011/

 

In a case of the "click of death" it is difficult even to estimate the probabilities that someone with the "right" tools (PC-3000 or similar) would be capable of "fixing" it (at the most recovering the data) or if more complex operations involving doing some hard disk surgery (such as heads or platters transplant) would be needed.

 

JFYI, more or less a modern hard disk behaves like a "full PC", on power on some "boot" firmware (on the PCB ROM - actually Eprom or Flash) is read and executed, and the idea is that the "booting" of the disk drive continues reading some more code and data from a specific area on the platters.

The 11 clicks may mean both that the contents of the firmware are somehow corrupted (and for a pro it is relatively easy to restore them) i.e. they point to a "wrong" area of the platters or that the given area is correct but for *some reasons* cannot be read correctly.

This again bifurcates in a "simpler" corrupted area on the platter (that in some cases can be bypassed, reading anyway the actual "user" data on the platters) or in a "more complex" issue caused by a hardware problem with the actual arm or heads or motor.

 

jaclaz

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Yeah, I'm going to call it a day on my attempts to fix it, connecting to it with a converter was one thing and unlikely to cause any problems but I really don't want to lose my data so it's time to call in the professionals - something an IT 'pro' like me hates to admit! I'm not going to let my pride get in the way of data recovery though!!

 

Do you happen to know of any good UK based data recovery folks? I'm London based but could obviously ship it further afield. No worries if not, I'll just resort to googling and getting quotes but I figured I'd ask just in case.

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Yeah, I'm going to call it a day on my attempts to fix it, connecting to it with a converter was one thing and unlikely to cause any problems but I really don't want to lose my data so it's time to call in the professionals - something an IT 'pro' like me hates to admit! I'm not going to let my pride get in the way of data recovery though!!

 

Do you happen to know of any good UK based data recovery folks? I'm London based but could obviously ship it further afield. No worries if not, I'll just resort to googling and getting quotes but I figured I'd ask just in case.

I cannot give you any recommendation on this, but you may want to make a post on hddguru forum and ask there (members on there being mostly in the field of data recovery are probably better suited for this - though they are usually *somehow* not particularly friendly with newbies ) at least it is worth a shot.

 

The only advice I can give you is be very careful in choosing, there are - I believe - a large number of firms/people - hmmm :unsure: - let's call them a little optimistic in advertising their abilities/capabilities, or have a not-so-clear approach, just an example:

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/170773-xbstart-219-stable-navigate-windows-81-with-an-xbox-controller/?p=1081791

 

jaclaz

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I've requested quotes from a number of companies now and have heard back from one or two. The one that you linked to that quotes £97 at the start was the first to get back to me (I literally got a phone call within minutes of completing the online form) and I was all set to go with them but having googled them, it seems that their usual actual repair costs are £500-£1000. I'd rather have an up front price so I know what I'm getting, so I'm going to wait a few days for the other quotes to come in.

 

One thing that strikes me as crazy though is that so many of these companies charge up to £200 for data recovery that requires no physical work done on the drives. You can buy excellent recovery software for that price!

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I've requested quotes from a number of companies now and have heard back from one or two. The one that you linked to that quotes £97 at the start was the first to get back to me (I literally got a phone call within minutes of completing the online form) and I was all set to go with them but having googled them, it seems that their usual actual repair costs are £500-£1000. I'd rather have an up front price so I know what I'm getting, so I'm going to wait a few days for the other quotes to come in.

The risk with an upfront price is that it may be - for obvious reasons - much higher than the actual cost of the *whatever* is needed.

I mean, let's bring this to another field, medicine/surgery :w00t::ph34r:.

Do you usually try to be visited by a MD (that will provide a diagnosis for a price, say UK£ 100) and only later - and only if really needed - go to a surgeon/clinic and pay (say) UK£ 10,000 for an operation and hospitalization?

Or you prefer a flat rate of (say) UK£ 9,000 for something that can be cured with a couple of aspirins?

One thing that strikes me as crazy though is that so many of these companies charge up to £200 for data recovery that requires no physical work done on the drives. You can buy excellent recovery software for that price!

Sure you can buy excellent recovery software for that money, point might be IF that *automagical* software will be able (in your hands) to recover the same amount of data a data recovery expert might be able to (possibly using some of his experience, some other tool, manual hex editing and what not).

Of course in many cases there is no real difference as the form of data corruption is either trivial to fix or the amount of data recovered is "enough".

But one of the issues with data recovery (broadly speaking) is that in "positive" cases (i.e. when you or the "automagical" program can recover the WHOLE lost data) everything is fine and dandy :), but when no or only partial data can be recovered there is (and there always be) a doubt, would another software be able to recover "more"?, would an expert be able to recover "more than the automated software(s)"?, would another expert be able to recover "more than the former expert"? ... :unsure:

In my little experience (and as a hobbyist, with limited tools and knowledge/experience) I happened to manually recover data that some experts (either real ones or self-proclaimed ones) had missed or deemed to be impossible to retrieve (or re-build, this latter possibly *somehow* "out of the scope" of their job), so you never really know.

jaclaz

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I press Ctrl + Z

but I have another message LED 13 or Led 1102

 

post-399836-0-72519000-1447192811_thumb.

 

I change RX and TX I get it

 

post-399836-0-42978600-1447186280_thumb.

 

help .... already tried several adapters ...

Chip Marvel port: 57600 ,, Chip samsung: 38400
Edited by mcsoba

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Just want to thank everybody, especially Carter from Canada. I just recovered one Seagate HDD for a friend and he is thrilled since he didn't do a backup of his important files, and he is doing it now. :D

 

Cheers ;)

  • Upvote 1

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Hello friends.

I ran in to a problem.

Here is what I got. I got a windows xp (russian version) laptop with usb to ttl adapter.

I power my adapter with 3.3 volt from the power supply from the old computer.

I apply common ground to a third from the right pin on the hard drive, the same ground that feeding my usb to ttl adapter.

When I start a terminal and do a loopback test everything works. I get the typed letters back.

When I connect the drive and power it up and press ctrl+z I get a gibberish on the screen. Unreadable symbols. I have rx from the adapter go to tx on the hard drive and tx on the adapter goes to rx on the hard drive so everything is correct.

I tried to use PUTTY to connect and it did bring the prompt F3 T> but when I started typing "/2" it started displaying gibberish again.

What to do, other then try rs232 to ttl adapter?

Why do I get garbage on the screen in a terminal window instead of letters? Do I need to install certain fonts or change the encoding? Right now I have a ms dos font in terminal. I tried with every possible system font enabled and native terminal still sending garbage, however a loopback test comes through clear.

I read as much of this mega thread as I possibly can without loosing my mind. Anyone please help.

Thank you

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"Gibberish" is usually derived from improper GROUNDing of ALL devices involved.

 

Please re-read the Read-me-first point #7

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/143880-seagate-barracuda-720011-read-me-first/

AND (just in case) a few posts starting from here:

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/128807-the-solution-for-seagate-720011-hdds/page-153#entry968299

 

Do review your setup, EVERY device involved needs to be grounded together.

 

As a side note, It is EXTREMELY rare :unsure: that a USB to TTL needs an external power source, all the USB converters I ever saw (with the exception possibly of one or two "phone cables") took power from the USB bus.

 

jaclaz

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Hey guys, I bought a USB to TTL converter (see pic) and I was able to get to the point where I have to power down the HDD. The problem is that when I power it up again it does not stop spinning, not even after 18 hours.

My answer is, can I spin down the HDD by sending the CTRL+Z --> Z command? Because I believe it will not stop spinning not even after a week or a month.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

For other people that may buy this particular converter (0,89€+free shipping and no need for soldering), here's how I was able to establish connection:

Converter            HDD

TXD        <-->        TXD
RXD        <-->        RXD
GND        <-->        GND

And I used a second, old power supply to power the HDD with a molex to SATA power converter.

To make sure I will not drop a screw on the PCB, I made a stencil (see pic) out of a piece of cardboard that has the exact dimensions as the PCB and cut holes with an exacto knife, slightly larger than the head of the screw, to pass through easily.

Drivers for this particular USB to TTL converter: http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=225&pcid=41

11ky1zq.jpg
 

Thank you :)

Edited by puzzler
  • Like 1

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Hi.

Sorry for my, very, bad english.

After step N1 you just power off your disk, wait few seconds an power up again. Then you continue. Keep the motor runnig. At this time you send Ctrl+z and type m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22. Await reply. Eventually type Z to stop the motor. If you have success your disk is readable.

Edited by coplan27

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38 minutes ago, coplan27 said:

Hi.

Sorry for my, very, bad english.

You don't need to power off again your disk after the step N1.

When you power on your disk, the motor will run. At this time you send Ctrl+z and type m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22. Await reply. Eventually type Z to stop the motor. If you have success your disk is readable.

Thank you for answering. The steps I followed are these...

1. CTRL+Z
2. /2 [enter]
3. Z [enter]

- Once "SPIN DOWN COMPLETE" displays, remove the card and tighten all screws. Then type...

4. U [enter]

- Once "SPIN DOWN COMPLETE" displays type...

6. /1 [enter]
7. N1 [enter]
8. /T [enter]
9. i4,1,22 [enter]

- Unplug the power connector and wait 20-30 seconds.
- Plug power connector back in and wait until the drive spins down completely. Then type...

10. CTRL+Z
11. m0,2,2,,,,,22 [enter]

12. Then I have to wait for the results before I power down the HDD and test it to see if it works.

I'm now at the step where I have power up the HDD (bold text, between steps 9 and 10), and the instructions say wait until it stops completely before you type the next command (CTRL+Z). As I know with the command CTRL+Z and then Z I can spin down the motor, but is it safe to do so or do I have to wait to spin down by itself? If it is safe to go to the next step (CTRL+Z and then m0,2,2,,,,,22) then why the instructions say to wait? Thanks :)

Edited by puzzler

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Hi.

Is your disk a Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 or a Maxtor DiamondMax22 ? And what is its firmware ?

Before typing the first Ctrl+z you must isolate heads contacts or remove completly the pcb.

Then type Ctr+z to awake the micro controler.

Then type Z (caps mode)

When you get the answer "spin down complete", put the pcb in place without unpluging nothing. Be careful not make any short circuit. Screw carefully the pcb in place. Then type U (caps mode).

After the answer "spin up complete" you may type 1, then N1 (still caps mode). After return to prompt. Unplug the SATA 12/5V. Await 10/15 seconds and plug in again.

Do not type T and i4... unusefull !

Then Ctrl+z again, wait for the prompt and type m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 enter.

At the end of answers which may take a few minutes you can type Z (caps mode) and unplug all.

Your HDD may be awaked again.

Please re-read attentively first page of this topic. It is very important. Elsewhere you may kill your disk.

Edited by coplan27

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14 minutes ago, coplan27 said:

Hi.

Is your disk a Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 or a Maxtor DiamondMax22 ? And what is its firmware ?

Before typing the first Ctrl+z you must isolate heads contacts or remove completly the pcb.

Then type Ctr+z to awake the micro controler.

Then type Z (caps mode)

When you get the answer "spin down complete", put the pcb in place without unpluging nothing. Be careful not make any short circuit. Screw carefully the pcb in place. Then type U (caps mode).

After the answer "spin up complete" you may type 1, then N1 (still caps mode). After return to prompt. Unplug the SATA 12/5V. Await 10/15 seconds and plug in again.

Do not type T and i4... unusefull !

Then Ctrl+z again, wait for the prompt and type m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 enter.

At the end of answers which may take a few minutes you can type Z (caps mode) and unplug all.

Your HDD may be awaked again.

I will ansewer to you in a few minutes I have a responce from the HDD :)

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The disk is a:

Seagate Barracuda SATA 3.5" 7200.11 500 Gbytes
Model: ST3500820AS
Firmware: SD81

I completed the procedure and I now have access to the disk but unfortunately even though I can see all the files they are not all of the readable...I cannot open them. The good thing is that the partition shows as it should on My Computer (169GB free of 465GB). This tells me that the files exist and I will be able to recover them somehow.

When I go to the Device Manager the HDD appears as: Maxtor Basics Desktop USB Device.

Do you have something to sugest?

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