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Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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Yes - wanted to blow up the unneeded 7200.10 instead of the 7200.11 I was working on incase I did something wrong! Didn't blow up anything though!

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Yes - wanted to blow up the unneeded 7200.10 instead of the 7200.11 I was working on incase I did something wrong! Didn't blow up anything though!

Thanks for the clarificationsmile.gif Just thought (or rather hoped) we might have a confirmed case of someone who managed to unbrick a 7200.10, but seems like we have to wait a bit longer.

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There is a confirmed case of someone fixing it - this is how I figured out that the baud had to be lowered to 9600 to talk to the 7200.10 drives. This is from last october ... Here's the link: http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/133604-seagate-720010-hdds-how-to-fix-bsy-state-too/

Well, NO. :(

That's EXACTLY an example of an UNconfirmed report!

The OP was NOT sure about:

  • what the problem actually was
  • what EXACT steps/procedure he used
  • what THEORY was behind the set of commands he issued

AND he admittedly was "half drunk" at the time he presumably "fixed" the drive.

Since then noone else posted useful/meaningful info.

Mind you I am not saying that what was reported never happened, only that there is very little confirmation about the method used (and on the actual cause of the BSY state - if any ) of the drive.

If you prefer, we know we do not know. ;)

jaclaz

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If you prefer, we know we do not know. ;)

Yes, the known unknowns are always better than the unknown unknowns laugh.gif

"There are known knowns; there are things we know we know.

We also know there are known unknowns; that is to say we know there are some things we do not know.

But there are also unknown unknowns – the ones we don't know we don't know."

http://en.wikipedia....re_known_knowns

Edited by BlouBul

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Hi,

I have Seagate BSY problem that I am trying to resolve (the hdd was inside of the enclosure FreeAgent Desktop 500gb)

I have RS232 Shifter SMD (from sparkfun) that I connect to StartTech USB to RS232 DB9 serial cable.

I also have a CR2032 3volt battery + Philmore plastic battery holder with PCB. I tried connecting the battery to RS232 Shifter and the rs232 to the harddrive, but I don’t see anything in the hyper terminal. I used the power cable from an external enclosure to power hardddrive.

Do I need to solder the wires connecting the battery to the rs232 board (they are loosely connected)?

Since I don’t have a real desktop, I used the USB2 hard-drive enclosure to connect the power to the harddrive (not sure whether it’s ok).

Are there any more pix on how to connect the batter to RS232 board?

Here are my goodies:

Philmore plastic battery holder with PCB mount for (1) CR2032 (20mm x 3.2mm coin cell).

ACDelco AC515 CR2032 3-Volt Coin Cell Watch Battery

6250850 MALE TO FEMALE JUMBERS / 10 PACK / SCHMARTBOARD 920-0022-01

RS232 Shifter SMD from sparkfun - http://www.sparkfun.com/products/449

StartTech USB to RS232 DB9 serial cable - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067SNB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A1OGLDUAEUWRAK

Thanks

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Read the READ ME FIRST (first).

Forget (for the moment) about the "shifter".

Test just the USB to RS232.

Do a loopback test on it. (see READ ME FIRST)

Then connect the "shifter" AND power it with the battery ( rule of thumb, a connection, by definition, is not "loose" as it won't be a connection, if you think it is not good, solder it or make it good, tightening the wires or whatever) and do a loopback test on the "shifter" TTL side too.

If BOTH loopback tests work, try connecting to the HD (remember GROUNDing - again read READ-ME-FIRST):

once you have done he above AND also having read the FGA's:

come back to report results.

Please AVOID asking the SAME questions that have been ALREADY asked (and aswered to) a zillion times.

Take some time on the given PRE-REQUISITE threads, read them thoroughfully.

Then take some time on the present thread, you will find your same questions asked and answered to several times.

If you really cannot understand something, you are welcome to ask :), but please do make sure you have something "new" to ask. ;)

jaclaz

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Hello!

Let me start from scratch.. First the stuff..

I am using a USB to TTL converter.. this one.. http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=304

Jumper wires.. both male and female.. these ones.. http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=726 and http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=727

Firstly, do i need to attach the converter to the breadboard? I doubt it since the adapter is USB powered. please confirm..

Secondly, in what order should the jumper wires be connected?

GND from HDD to what on adapter?

TX from HDD to RX on adapter?

RX from HDD to TX on adapter?

Thirdly, do i need to put in place a cardstock so as to break the connection between the drive's logic board and the motor?

Fourthly, should i connect the adapter to the USB of my pc when the pc is switched off? Or directly when its on?

Thanks in advance

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Let me start from scratch.. First the stuff..

Well NO. :angry:

That would be acceptable if there wasn't a READ ME FIRST, the FGA's and a Guide (actually several ones) with pictures AND a great number of these same questions asked and answered to AND the actual "homepage" of the converter.

I am using a USB to TTL converter.. this one.. http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=304

Jumper wires.. both male and female.. these ones.. http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=726 and http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=727

Firstly, do i need to attach the converter to the breadboard? I doubt it since the adapter is USB powered. please confirm..

READ:

http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=304

. The unit is powered through USB and does not require external Power.

Point #11

Secondly, in what order should the jumper wires be connected?

GND from HDD to what on adapter?

TX from HDD to RX on adapter?

RX from HDD to TX on adapter?

Maybe Ground ? :whistle:

READ:

Point #7

Point #7

About Tx/Rx ;):

Be aware of UART dislexia :ph34r:

:lol:

Thirdly, do i need to put in place a cardstock so as to break the connection between the drive's logic board and the motor?

READ:

http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html

Point #11:

11. A small piece of cardstock. Yep, I said cardstock. Plain old thick, rigid paper. It might help a bit if it's slightly slippery on one or both sides, like something you'd find stuck inside slick, pre-printed retail packaging. It will be used to temporarily break the connection between the drive's logic board and motor contacts in our process. Nothing metal, foil, or even plastic as they can all have conductivity and static issues. Dig out that postcard you sent yourself from Holland last year. It needs to be about that thick so you can pull it out midway through the repair without ripping.

Additional info in "Down to Business - Prep the Drive":

(Note: Some guides on the web have suggested insulating the *other* set of contacts (the "head" contacts) you see in the lower left of the above photo to the right. I tried this originally and it didn't work for me but obviously others have had some success with it. In *my* case, with 1TB model drives, I can assure you that insulating the slightly easier to access motor contacts worked where the head contacts method didn't. I suspect the specific model of your drive will account for the varying levels of the results so if one way doesn't work for you, think about trying the other. You'll know to look here if the HyperTerminal session won't allow you to spin down the drive and continues to give you the BSY error in reply - "LED:01...blah blah blah". If you're allowed to spin down the drive, then this bit isn't your issue.)

Fourthly, should i connect the adapter to the USB of my pc when the pc is switched off? Or directly when its on?

Doesn't matter actually, as long as you have the drivers for it installed and hyperterminal can see the virtual COM device.

Try it first without anything connected to it.

Then do a loopback test.

Only if the loopback test connect to the HD.

READ:

Point #8

READ:

Point #5

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz

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I have had success using a company called PCB Solution at this ebay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/Seagate-Barracuda-7200-11-500-500GB-ST3500820AS-Any-PCB-/230620298935?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b20a7eb7#ht_2067wt_1037

Cost was US$50 with free shipping of returned controller card. I had to purchase a set of Torx screwdrivers to detach the controller card.

I have been able to recover all the data from the hard drive. Very happy about this!

Derryl

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I have had success using a company called PCB Solution at this ebay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/...#ht_2067wt_1037

That sounds like is a good way if you have that specific PCB AND the problem is the PCB and NOT BSY or 0LBA.whistling.gif

From your link:

When to buy this item: A common problem with Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 drives is that it would suddenly stop being recognized by the computer, or be recognized as 0MBs. Normally, there is a decent chance that it could be the PCB at fault, but with 7200.11 drives, it usually is NOT the PCB, but a firmware problem instead. A data recovery professional is a better choice.

We recommend buying this item when you are sure it is the PCB. For example, if there was a power surge, or some components are obviously burnt, or the wrong power adapter was used to power up the drive. If the drive will not spin up at all, and wasn't dropped, chances of success with replacing the PCB are quite good.

Edited by BlouBul

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I have a failed ST31500341AS. I don't know what happened to it, nobody was using the computer and I found it frozen with a black screen. After a power cycle I heard the hard-disk emitting a mechanical clicking noise, about one click per second, for around 10 seconds. After that, it stops clicking.

It's detected by the BIOS as: "ST_M13FQBL 1117F38F SMART Capable and Status BAD". The motor spins. I have verified the SN on Seagate's website and it says that the firmware (CC1H) is not affected by the bug.

I bought a Nokia CA-47 cable, tested it on a working HDD and got the prompt.

But I can't get any message from the failed drive no matter what I do. Tried insulating the contacts near the disk center or the other ones. Also tried connecting to the PCB when fully detached from the disk. Nothing.

What else can I do? Try harder? :)

I'm thinking that since the BIOS detects something, the PCB should be working.. so why can't I connect to it? Can I try with a similar PCB? I've read somewhere that the new Seagate drives are tied together with their PCB, so replacing it would not work. Is that true for this model?

Edited by silviumc

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I'm thinking that since the BIOS detects something, the PCB should be working.. so why can't I connect to it? Can I try with a similar PCB? I've read somewhere that the new Seagate drives are tied together with their PCB, so replacing it would not work. Is that true for this model?

READ this sticky :whistle: :

AND the two posts just above yours.

jaclaz

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READ this sticky :whistle: :

Ok, got it :)

Reading around some more, it appears that CC1H should not be affected by BSY or LBA.0. So I'm in the wrong thread, sorry about that. What else can I do? What does that clicking mean, what's the disk trying to do at that time? I'm thinking that there is still hope of data recovery with a spinning rotor and a PCB detected by BIOS. I'll try to find a relevant thread.. if anyone has suggestions, please direct me. Thank you.

PS: I cannot afford the professional services from Seagate, so I'm gonna try to do it myself.

Edited by silviumc

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