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The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs


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Hi, Im new to the forum and I'm a little lost on the recovery method.

I noticed Gradius posted a link to seagate fix tool on ebay that would do the same thing without splicing the cables and wiring. I just wanted to know if I need a separate power supply to connect to the sata power port before I buy this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280748167812

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Hi, Im new to the forum and I'm a little lost on the recovery method.

I noticed Gradius posted a link to seagate fix tool on ebay that would do the same thing without splicing the cables and wiring. I just wanted to know if I need a separate power supply to connect to the sata power port before I buy this?

You need such a power supply expecially AFTER you have bought the referenced item ;).

:lol:

But you can get it from *any* desktop PSU, at the most you may need a Molex 4 pin to SATA cable/adapter, something like this one:

sata-power-latching-cable.jpg

An alternative is to buy one of those El-Cheapo USB adapters, example:

USB-IDESATA-B.jpg

If you have not a clear idea of the procedure, read the "alternate" and actually suggested as it is more detailed, with images and what not guide:

http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html

jaclaz

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I really appreciate the quick reply jaclaz :thumbup , I saw a lot of tutorials out there and some had a power supply connected and some didn't so I was a little lost. Luckily I can just salvage a power supply from my old desktop.

One more question, although I think I'm answering it as I type it. I noticed on mapleleaf's tutorial he had two additional cables from the serial line going to the power supply. I wouldn't need to do that if I bought the ebay item since that is USB powered right?

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One more question, although I think I'm answering it as I type it. I noticed on mapleleaf's tutorial he had two additional cables from the serial line going to the power supply. I wouldn't need to do that if I bought the ebay item since that is USB powered right?

Yep :yes: (meaning NO :no::w00t:, you won't need the two additional wires to power the adapter), just in case REMEMBER GROUNDing.

jaclaz

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Hello. When i found your forum I was very happy because there was a solution to the annoying problem of this drives. But unfortunately it didn't go as it supposed to.

I bought the adapter from ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280748167812?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

connected everything but I can't get past this step:

F3 T>2

LED:000000CC FAddr:0025BF67

LED:000000CC FAddr:0025BF67

I manage to get the F3 T>, but when I type 2 and hit enter I always get the LED errors.

I have tried both the "head" and "motor" methods and also by completely removing the PCB board but all three methods returned the same error. I also tried waiting 20-30 seconds before hitting CTRL-Z in all three methods as someone suggested in the previous posts. My drive is not ES. If I try to run the drive with the PCB board screwed on the HyperTerminal also returns a LED error, just with a different number.

If someone has any other ideas...I would appreciate it. Thank you.

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Hi everyone.

I am looking at this drive for a friend. I had no luck in getting his drive to say anything to me, so I dug up an oscilloscope to take a look at what was happening at the pins. It looks like there is somewhere around 4 volts on the RX pin and 2.6 volts on the TX pin. These reading were taken when nothing was hooked up to the hard drive. I am assuming some components on the board have gone bad.

I would appreciate any helpful feedback.

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I had no luck in getting his drive to say anything to me...

First things first. Did you do a loopback test? See the FGA for more info. (especially no. 4)

I did do a loopback test. I have several usb-ttl devices. One is a bus pirate and the other two are spark fun devices. I modified one of the spark fun devices to work on 3.3V as per their guide. They were all capable of talking to themselves. I was even successful hooking them up to each other and sending data from one serial console to the other.

Thanks for the quick reply.

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Can you confirm it by using Victoria or mhdd or hdat2?

If the PCB has some components gone it may not be BSY, but simply "not working".

I broke down the setup to power the hdd. I will have to move some stuff around, but will report back on what I find.

I am guessing that I can find information on: Victoria, mhdd, and hdat2 in the forum?

Thanks again for the input.

c

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I am guessing that I can find information on: Victoria, mhdd, and hdat2 in the forum?

They are "very specific" apps, you won't get much info here on MSFN, but Google helps ;).

You need only the basics, in Victoria there will be a "BUSY" indicator, HDAT2 is more complex but well documented, MHDD is possibly the most "difficult" to use.

http://forum.hddguru.com/victoria-for-windows-english-help-google-translated-t12829.html

http://translate.google.de/translate?prev=hp&hl=en&js=y&u=http%3A%2F%2Fhdd-911.com%2F&sl=ru&tl=en&history_state0=

Direct download:

http://hdd-911.com/index.php?option=com_docman&Itemid=31

http://hdd-911.com/index.php?option=com_docman&Itemid=31&task=view_category&catid=81&order=dmdate_published&ascdesc=DESC

http://hdd-911.com/index.php?option=com_docman&task=docclick&Itemid=31&bid=87&limitstart=0&limit=15

jaclaz

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