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The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted

Sure :), since you fail to write it. (and you must have a d@mn bigger screen I have right now, but the fact that near an empty pad on a PCB you can read 3.3 AND 5 doesn't mean anything IMHO)

After a closer look, you are right :thumbup , but for the wrong reasons :whistle: , the actual 4205 with the 05 written with a pen should mean:

  1. that it is the right adapter (you are right)
  2. that the PCB of the 3.3V and of the 5V are the same (you are right by pure chance, as you mentioned a completely wrong reason for it) :lol:

Look again (or maybe invest in a bigger screen) newwink.gif

In the bottom right of the photo (opposite side from the infamous 4205) there are a couple of pins marked U2 and U3. Underneath it you will see U2 is 5V and U3 is 3.3V.biggrin.gif

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jaclaz

jaclaz

Posted
Posted

Look again (or maybe invest in a bigger screen)

Unfortunately the combined effect of:

  • notebook 10" screen
  • age
  • lack of proper spectacles handy

made me overlook the tiny (3.3) and (5) on the PCB, but anyway it would NOT have been enough to convince me.

In the bottom right of the photo (opposite side from the infamous 4205) there are a couple of pins marked U2 and U3. Underneath it you will see U2 is 5V and U3 is 3.3V.biggrin.gif

Yes, I have seen them.

And as said before they are NOT marked 3.3V and 5V but rather (3.3) and (5), it's a good hint, but not enough.

More thatn that. what I was saying - and I actually wrote it ;) - is that probably (please read as surely) the SAME PCB is used to build BOTH the "4502" (5V only) AND the "4505" (dual TTL level).

You are right that the adapter in the photo is the "right" one :thumbup, but you derived a right conclusion :yes: from the wrong observation (of course IMHO ;)).

In other words:

143e3a38-adae-45fe-bf82-07e6b702db70.jpg

:lol:

:hello:

jaclaz

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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted

More thatn that. what I was saying - and I actually wrote it ;) - is that probably (please read as surely) the SAME PCB is used to build BOTH the "4502" (5V only) AND the "4505" (dual TTL level).

You are right that the adapter in the photo is the "right" one :thumbup, but you derived a right conclusion :yes: from the wrong observation (of course IMHO ;)).

I'm not so surely convinced of that. Check your previous link of the "wrong" adapter, there are only 5V there (you might need a bigger screen, stronger spectacles and younger eyes for that, but it is there, I can just barely make it out on my 20" screen) http://www.tronisoft...rod.php?id=4202

In other words:

143e3a38-adae-45fe-bf82-07e6b702db70.jpg

:lol:

:hello:

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Erurer

Erurer

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the help guys!!!

Greatly appreciated.

Yeah looking at my receipt I have the 4205 version and was confused as to where to solder on the board.

I have 2 cables I can strip back in the pic below.

Got the battery holder as well as the battery.

Is this the right part to connect to the hard drive for the pins? --->http://www.maplin.co.uk/tamiya-race-pack-connector-11455

BlouBul good luck with the game this weekend against the Tahs (From a sharks supporter in London;-))

I will read up further in the post provided and take print outs so I know whats going on but thats what I have to work with for the time being.

Thanks again for all the help much appreciated!

post-325364-0-19253200-1306921792_thumb.

Edited by Erurer
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BlouBul

BlouBul

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Posted

Thanks for the help guys!!!

Greatly appreciated.

...

Thanks again for all the help much appreciated!

You're welcomesmile.gif

I have 2 cables I can strip back in the pic below.

Got the battery holder as well as the battery.

Is this the right part to connect to the hard drive for the pins? --->http://www.maplin.co.uk/tamiya-race-pack-connector-11455

Not sure if that connector will work (there are no sizes on link. I just used an audio cable like you have, broke off the hard plastic at the ends and fiddled with pliers and other tools to get the hole the same size as the pins for a tight fit. Then wrap it with insulation tape to prevent the connectors touching each other. Another method is the wire wrap method jaclaz mentioned on the previous page.

BlouBul good luck with the game this weekend against the Tahs (From a sharks supporter in London;-))

Thanks welcome.gif

Hopefully we will get three SA teams in the playoffs.thumbup.gif

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Erurer

Erurer

Posted
Posted

Ok so now I have got from the TLL adapter going to the hard drive:

From PC (TX) to >>> RX (on Seagate)

- From PC (RX) to >>> TX (on Seagate)

Now I need to solder 2 wires from gnd and vcc + to the batttery?

Please help?

Thanks

post-325364-0-31403300-1306952497_thumb.

post-325364-0-68053900-1306952498_thumb.

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jaclaz

jaclaz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Now I need to solder 2 wires from gnd and vcc + to the batttery?

Yes :)AND you should ALSO connect the GND of the adapter to the ground of the HD.

If you prefer, you need to solder a RED wire going from the VCC to the + on the battery and TWO BLACK wires to the GND, then connect one of the two BLACK wires to the - on the battery and the other one to the GND of the HD.

Please re-READ the READ-ME-FIRST :realmad: , particularly point #7

Then BEFORE anything else detach the wires from the HD and DO A LOOPBACK TEST, again READ-ME-FIRST; this time point #8.

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz
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Erurer

Erurer

Posted
Posted

Ok guys just having no luck here.

So I have soldered everything accordingly,(Sorry black is soldered to ground but already done it so i didnt change it)

Here are the pics below.

I have done loopback tests and taken the jumper off and stuck a pin between rx and tx and was able to type in hyperterm.

I have changed both tx and rx on the hard drive and can entery hyperterm fine with all the settings but when I press ctrl + z nothing happens and I can't type anything although its saying it is connected.

Should I start again and re-solder everything?

Light comes on when I connect the battery as well on the ttl device.

I also connect the ground to the correct pin on the hard drive.

Have tried this on my laptop as well as work pc today as well as changing rx and tx pins around and when the hard drive is connected and I open hyperterm it says connected but i cant type anything.

Withouth the drive connected I can type letters and when i press ctrl + z i get an arrow key but presume this is cause the hard drive is not conencted.

Thanks

post-325364-0-48733200-1307017548_thumb.

post-325364-0-65128800-1307017549_thumb.

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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted

Withouth the drive connected I can type letters and when i press ctrl + z i get an arrow key but presume this is cause the hard drive is not conencted.

If you get loopback without connecting to the hdd, Tx and Rx must touch somewhere. Make sure all connections are well insulated and not touching each other.

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Erurer

Erurer

Posted
Posted

Thanks BlouBul,

Have checked the connections and all seems fine?

(might try re-solder when I get home?)

Strange thing is I went on lunch and came back to connect the device again (not in the loop back and no h/drv connected,just the battery and connected to the usb cable) and opened hyperterm and when it went in it gave an error cant open com 3.

So I thought fair enough, connected a paperclip to rx and tx and went back into hyperterm and it came up saying connected and I could now type characters.

However when I disconnected the paperclip tried opening another hyperterm session and it came up saying connected but this time I could not type anything in.

Does this mean the connections is touching somewhere?

So to re-iterate, when i disconnect the ttl board and leave in the usb to rs232 connector and open hyperterm it comes up saying connected (but cant type any characters obviously),connect the ttl board to the rs232 connector and open a hyperterm session it still says connected but can't type anything.

When I connect a paperclip to tx and rx connectors and open a hyperterm session it says connected and I can type characters.

Is this right?

Thanks

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jaclaz

jaclaz

Posted
Posted

@vishnupvardhan

What you report is strange, after the 0x08M you should have plenty more info, something like:

Rst 0x08M

RW cmd 002F req = 18 F0 9F E5 18 F0 9F E5 18 F0 9F E5 18 F0 9F E5 18 F0 9F E5 00 00 A0 E1

opts = 00000000

RW Err = 84150180

Maybe you have a loose connection or a not fully working TTL board?

@Erurer

Yes, this is normal, you need a LOOP (the paperclip) to make a LOOPback.

If nothing is connected to Tx what you type is dispersed in thin air....

If nothing is connected to Rx you cannot Receive anything (maybe messages from aliens)

It is still possible that you cannot make proper contact on the HD side, and as well it is possible that the TTL thingy is "picky" about voltage, and actually needs 3.3V (a battery like you are using can give maybe 3.1V if FULLY working and NEW, but can easily go down to 2.8 or 2.9 V, that may not be anough to drive the converter or produce adequate TTL levels).

jaclaz

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Erurer

Erurer

Posted
Posted

Thank you,

I will eliminate the battery tonight and plug straight into the power supply undoing the relevant pins and test then.

I'm sure aliens do exist but will not contact me so thanks for the alien answer as well.

Thought it in my best interest to give the most info as that is how one eliminates things if not enough info is specified (like possible fault with usb to serial connector).

I will share my findings tonight.

As always thanks once again for the help even if it is a bit alienated lol :thumbup

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BlouBul

BlouBul

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Posted

I will eliminate the battery tonight and plug straight into the power supply undoing the relevant pins and test then.

Remember to use the 3.3 V (Orange) wire.

If that still doesn't work, see if anything in FGA #4 helps.

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