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The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

Gradius2
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104

104

Posted
Posted

Well, i'l proly try the entire thing again tomo.. will post back on success..

if the adapter is dead.. my bad luck.. got it all the way from Pololu US since its not available anywhere here.. **** those shipping costs again :(

Well, with all due respect :), if you got it from pololu how come you didn't read the NOTE:

Note: We have heard of several instances of customers destroying these adapters when using them to recover bricked hard drives. This device is susceptible to damage from destructive LC voltage spikes that can arise when using this adapter with long (more than a few inches) power leads that are typical when powering this from a PC power supply connected to additional jumper wires, so we recommend placing a large electrolytic cap (at least 100 uF) across VCC and GND very close to the board in that kind of application.

it's quite visible. :unsure:

Point noted.. and yes i didn't read the note on Pololu's website.. I was under the impression that LC voltage spike phenomenon could occur only when using long jumper wires and the jumper wires I was using were the same as written in the guide.. nevertheless that is the cost of experience..

Thanks for the links.. I can surely buy the above but using them without a guide isn't too easy.. and if i use a USB to TTL converter, the problem of voltage spike would still occur or not?

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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted

I can surely buy the above but using them without a guide isn't too easy.. and if i use a USB to TTL converter, the problem of voltage spike would still occur or not?

Well you can still use your guide, it is exactly the same if you use the cheapest of the three($5.51), alternatively, if you choose to use one of the USB ones, you can skip the whole "build your own converter part" and plug the one end in your usb port and the other three wires to the Rx, Tx and GND of your HDD (after loopback) :)

I don't think you will get a Voltage problem with the serial to TTL converter if you connect it after your computer is booted up and with USB to TTL I haven't heard about similar problems :)

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jaclaz

jaclaz

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Posted

Actually the issue is with the TOTAL length of the power leads :

when using this adapter with long (more than a few inches) power leads that are typical when powering this from a PC power supply connected to additional jumper wires

basically it's the TOTAL length from the power supply to that actual board that may (in some particular cases and ONLY with "bad" power supplies that send the spikes) create a voltage peak when switched on (capacitor effect).

This SHOULD NEVER happen (i.e. no way it can happen :unsure:) if you power the PC BEFORE and later connect the Molex.

There is NO possible switch bounce WITHOUT a switch ;) (unless of course you have delirium tremens :ph34r:)

It WON'T happen if you use a battery to power the adapter.

You may want to do it behind the green glass door :whistle:

where there are NO switch bounce nor voltage peaks, and lots of TTL-converters...(but NO USB :()

The USB to TTL seems to me the best choice of the three mentioned as it is ALREADY powered by the USB BUS and you need not to fiddle with the power supply, you just insert the device in a USB port.

jaclaz

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104

104

Posted
Posted

Actually the issue is with the TOTAL length of the power leads :

when using this adapter with long (more than a few inches) power leads that are typical when powering this from a PC power supply connected to additional jumper wires

basically it's the TOTAL length from the power supply to that actual board that may (in some particular cases and ONLY with "bad" power supplies that send the spikes) create a voltage peak when switched on (capacitor effect).

I am using a Corsair VX450W SMPS with my PC.. I doubt with this SMPS there would be a power spike issue..

This SHOULD NEVER happen (i.e. no way it can happen :unsure:) if you power the PC BEFORE and later connect the Molex.

There is NO possible switch bounce WITHOUT a switch ;) (unless of course you have delirium tremens :ph34r:)

It WON'T happen if you use a battery to power the adapter.

You may want to do it behind the green glass door :whistle:

where there are NO switch bounce nor voltage peaks, and lots of TTL-converters...(but NO USB :()

The USB to TTL seems to me the best choice of the three mentioned as it is ALREADY powered by the USB BUS and you need not to fiddle with the power supply, you just insert the device in a USB port.

jaclaz

So, i guess i'll order the USB to TTL converter.. the one mentioned here.. http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=304

Please check if it suites the purpose.. any guide to use the same would be appreciated..

Thanks again :)

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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted

So, i guess i'll order the USB to TTL converter.. the one mentioned here.. http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=304

Please check if it suites the purpose.. any guide to use the same would be appreciated..

Thanks again :)

Yes, that one will work (as jaclaz said) For guide see below:

Well you can still use your guide, it is exactly the same if you use the cheapest of the three($5.51), alternatively, if you choose to use one of the USB ones, you can skip the whole "build your own converter part" and plug the one end in your usb port and the other three wires to the Rx, Tx and GND of your HDD (after loopback) :)

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104

104

Posted
Posted

Well you can still use your guide, it is exactly the same if you use the cheapest of the three($5.51), alternatively, if you choose to use one of the USB ones, you can skip the whole "build your own converter part" and plug the one end in your usb port and the other three wires to the Rx, Tx and GND of your HDD (after loopback) :)

Ok.. do i get a USB cable along with the converter? If yes, i will plug one end of the USB in my pc and another one to the converter.. right?

Next, what do i do with the Rx., Tx, GND Pins.. attach jumper wires to them? one end connected to the converter and the other end with the bricked hard drive?

Thanks.

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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted

Ok.. do i get a USB cable along with the converter? If yes, i will plug one end of the USB in my pc and another one to the converter.. right?

Next, what do i do with the Rx., Tx, GND Pins.. attach jumper wires to them? one end connected to the converter and the other end with the bricked hard drive?

Thanks.

Not sure if a USB cable is included (otherwise just use one from a printer or buy one) Rest of questions Yes :yes: , Yes :yes: and Yes :yes:

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Cry17

Cry17

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey, I have fixed a few busy HDD without any problems and recently I got a 0 LBA HDD. I tought it will be easier to fix but it looks like it is not. It has CC1H firmware and after I type the m0,2,2,,,,,22 command I get something like this:

Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 14, Max Certify Rewrite Retries = 00C8

User Partition Format 3% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00004AA5, ErrCode 000

00080, Elapsed Time 0 mins 30 secs

User Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 30 secs

Zone re-format was skipped.

And also it is the first time the Hyper Terminal shows this when I start it:

ASCII Diag mode

F3 T>

When I fixed the BSY HDDs the ASCII Diag mode line was not there

The problem is that after I get that final message and disconnect everything from the HDD it is still in 0 LBA. Why is that?

Edited by Cry17
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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted (edited)

heres a quick one chaps - in buying the RS232 to TTL converter do I specifically need 3.3v or will a 5v one do the job?

dont want to fry anything!

Corky

See Read-Me-First #10

Rule of the thumb:

there are NO reports of failures at 3.3V

there are a few, not fully confirmed, reports of 5V working

Edited by BlouBul
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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted

So, i guess i'll order the USB to TTL converter.. the one mentioned here.. http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=304

Please check if it suites the purpose.. any guide to use the same would be appreciated..

I suddenly had a sense of deja vu. Didn't I also recommended that exact same converter to you last year?

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104

104

Posted
Posted

So, i guess i'll order the USB to TTL converter.. the one mentioned here.. http://www.rhydolabz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=304

Please check if it suites the purpose.. any guide to use the same would be appreciated..

I suddenly had a sense of deja vu. Didn't I also recommended that exact same converter to you last year?

Yes you did :D.. thanks again for that.. somehow i didn't feel like using that one caus i didn't know a thing on how setup the entire thing.. now that i have done (or spoiled i'd say) it once and have a fair idea on how things flow its better suited now.. in any case the links u suggested helped me find the jumper wires..

And this is the same hard disc for which i posted last year.. its still bricked and the wait continues... :whistle:

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BlouBul

BlouBul

Posted
Posted

Hey, I have fixed a few busy HDD without any problems and recently I got a 0 LBA HDD. I tought it will be easier to fix but it looks like it is not. It has CC1H firmware and after I type the m0,2,2,,,,,22 command I get something like this:

Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 14, Max Certify Rewrite Retries = 00C8

User Partition Format 3% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00004AA5, ErrCode 000

00080, Elapsed Time 0 mins 30 secs

User Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 30 secs

Zone re-format was skipped.

And also it is the first time the Hyper Terminal shows this when I start it:

ASCII Diag mode

F3 T>

When I fixed the BSY HDDs the ASCII Diag mode line was not there

The problem is that after I get that final message and disconnect everything from the HDD it is still in 0 LBA. Why is that?

The ASCII Diag mode is not necessarily a problem. If you search the topic for it (top right of page), you will see a couple of people got that message and still succeeded in debricking their drives.

The replies from hyperterminal seemed to indicate it worked. Not sure why it didn't :unsure: Did you input the commands as is (without disconnecting the PCB)?

Maybe try it again with F3 T>m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 (enter).

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Cry17

Cry17

Posted
Posted (edited)

I connected the HDD with the DKU-5 cable and power cable started hyper terminal, entered the command and that's all I did. PCB was connected, everything should have worked, but it remains in 0 LBA. Kinda of anoying as I managed to fix like 5 HDD with the BSY error.And yes I tried both commands with 0 and without 0, same problem.

Edited by Cry17
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corkyblue

corkyblue

Posted
Posted

ok well i've now received some of the things necessary to carry out the procedure...i seem to have a problem though with the Nokia Data Cable

basically i bought this one:

http://www.uk-mobilestore.co.uk/products/NOKIA-CA%252d42-USB-DATA-CABLE.html

..and after an hour of meticulously stripping back the blue insulating plastic and exposing the circuit board, i now have a question mark as to how the wires run.

there is a Red, an Orange and a Blue wire.

the Blue is soldered to 12 on the circuit board

the red is soldered to 4

the orange is soldered to 6

they then run through the board up to the USB connection end.

how can i tell which is RX/TX and Ground??

corky

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