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The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs


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Hi Mapex,

I have given it some more thought. :angel I won't recommend the extra resistor route. That second converter is not too epensive and if you don't measure the right voltage on your current convertor, I'll go for that one. If your voltage is 3.3V on your current converter, you can try the Full Reset (for BSY). Maybe it will be read without the PCB connected. That will not do any damage and if it is some firmware issue preventing it from being read, that will also being fixed. Loosening one screw and inserting a piece of cardstock shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes.

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Hi Mapex,

I have given it some more thought. :angel I won't recommend the extra resistor route. That second converter is not too epensive and if you don't measure the right voltage on your current convertor, I'll go for that one. If your voltage is 3.3V on your current converter, you can try the Full Reset (for BSY). Maybe it will be read without the PCB connected. That will not do any damage and if it is some firmware issue preventing it from being read, that will also being fixed. Loosening one screw and inserting a piece of cardstock shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes.

I have all the skills necessary to do what was needed if I needed to solder, measure with a voltmeter, and create an non-inverting amplifier to reduce the voltage if needbe, and what have you. My issue was that I would find no use at home for op-amps, a breadboard, and a soldering kit, among other components, past this project, so they would all be a waste of money.

I am thinking of both getting a new converter and getting a Torx screwdriver (which comes in handy in other situations anyway) and seeing what happens.

I'll keep you posted.

Edited by Mapex
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I have all the skills necessary to do what was needed if I needed to solder, measure with a voltmeter, and create an non-inverting amplifier to reduce the voltage if needbe, and what have you. My issue was that I would find no use at home for op-amps, a breadboard, and a soldering kit, among other components, past this project, so they would all be a waste of money.

I am thinking of both getting a new converter and getting a Torx screwdriver (which comes in handy in other situations anyway) and seeing what happens.

I'll keep you posted.

I didn't mean to imply that you can't solder, just meant it is a bit of a nuisance to get everything set up and do the soldering between the USB port and the converter if not neccessary (I'm sure you have all the skills needed ;) )

I just meant if your converter already measures 3.3V, there is no need to buy a new one, but no harm to get a new one anyway.

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I didn't mean to imply that you can't solder, just meant it is a bit of a nuisance to get everything set up and do the soldering between the USB port and the converter if not neccessary (I'm sure you have all the skills needed ;) )

I just meant if your converter already measures 3.3V, there is no need to buy a new one, but no harm to get a new one anyway.

My previous post was in haste and it was more of an "FYI" than a "you are incorrect." Sorry for the terse tone.

Regarding a new converter: can you recommend any of the following over the others, especially if anyone of them have successfully used in the past for this fix by others? I believe these all operate at 3.3V or 5V, but I'm not sure if it's automatically determined or if you need to plug-in a reference Vcc to force a specific output voltage.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-USB-2-0-TTL-UART-Module-Serial-Device-Converter-/170526721177

http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-TTL-converter-/270639483975 (This I believe is the same as the previous one

except clearly states the dual 3.3V/5V output)

http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-TTL-Converter-Module-cp2102-arm9-max232-max2332-/300420573701

Edited by Mapex
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My previous post was in haste and it was more of a "FYI" than a "you are incorrect." Sorry for the terse tone.

Regarding a new converter - can you recommend any of the following over the others, especially if anyone of them have successfully used in the past for this fix by others? I believe these all operate at 3.3V or 5V, but I'm not sure if it's automatically determined or if you need to plug-in a reference Vcc to force a specific voltage.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...r-/170526721177

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item3f035ecc47 (This I believe is the same as the previous one except clearly states the dual 3.3V/5V output)

http://cgi.ebay.com/...2-/300420573701

No Problem.

Regarding, the converters. I do not know the dual voltage converters, but the user manual will probably tell you how to set them. I'm sure they will all work if it can be set correctly at 3.3V. (so go for the cheapest one ;) )

Did you manage to measure the voltage on your current converter?

Edited by BlouBul
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No Problem.

Regarding, the converters. I do not know the dual voltage converters, but the user manual will probably tell you how to set them. I'm sure they will all work if it can be set correctly at 3.3V. (so go for the cheapest one ;) )

Did you manage to measure the voltage on your current converter?

I don't have any electrical testing equipment at home so I could not measure the voltage of the adapter. I'll try the new one out when I receive it, and worst case attempt the BSY steps if needed. If that doesn't work I'll purchase a digital volt/multimeter and figure out what's going on.

Edited by Mapex
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I don't have any electrical testing equipment at home so I could not measure the voltage of the adapter. I'll try the new one out when I receive it, and worst case attempt the BSY steps if needed. If that doesn't work I'll purchase a digital volt/multimeter and figure out what's going on.

Just make sure you can set the voltage easy, otherwise get a 3.3V only converter.

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ok Gradius2

i couldn't get output from the console

but then i press CTRL-Z and got output F3 T>

now i getting this error went i try to put this command

F3 T>m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22

LED:000000CC FAddr:0025BF67

how you connect to the pcb in order to enter the terminal?

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Just make sure you can set the voltage easy, otherwise get a 3.3V only converter.

I was getting confused between TTL 3.3V vs 5V and USB/RS232-based power supply of 3.3V vs 5V. The converters I listed seem to specify that they do the latter (that is, offer 3.3V or 5V power output to devices) but probably still only do 5V TTL.

It seems I have to decide whether to measure the voltage of my current adapter's TTL logic and then put it through a voltage divider OR track down and purchase an elusive USB to 3.3V TTL converter with jumper headers, which I am having little luck finding.

I'll search more when I get home tonight.

Edited by Mapex
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I have a 7200.11 ST3500320AS Barracuda with SD81 firmware that's bricked. It's not recognized in BIOS on multiple machines. Bought it a year ago and Seagate does not acknowledge that this model is affected, however after reading this entire forum, i have the same issue as many others.

Would anyone be willing to sell me the proper cable to get my drive back to life? If needed, i can even send it back to you. I'm at risk of loosing all of baby's photos!

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It seems I have to decide whether to measure the voltage of my current adapter's TTL logic and then put it through a voltage divider OR track down and purchase an elusive USB to 3.3V TTL converter with jumper headers, which I am having little luck finding.

I'll search more when I get home tonight.

Try something like this in your local electronic shop for that elusive converter.

http://www.robotshop...cable-3-3v.html

A bit expensive

This one is cheaper

http://cgi.ebay.com/Seagate-7200-11-Lba0-BSY-Error-Bug-USB-Cable-Tool-Fix-/170543848048?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b5349a70

Also, see examples as given by jaclaz two pages back:

http://www.msfn.org/...post__p__940049

Would anyone be willing to sell me the proper cable to get my drive back to life? If needed, i can even send it back to you. I'm at risk of loosing all of baby's photos!

See same links, They might be willing to sell it to you... You can try sending it back after use, though it is not condoned :whistle:

Edited by BlouBul
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hi everyone.

i also got this problem on my hp.

they will send me 2 new drives but will not fix them.

i came across an article today in a pc magazine.

they seem to say that if we have 2 similar drives, we could exchange the PCB.

would that work. has anyone tried it yet.

my drives are the same exactly. one is blocked the other not yet.

thanks for your feedback.

marc-a.

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hi everyone.

i also got this problem on my hp.

they will send me 2 new drives but will not fix them.

i came across an article today in a pc magazine.

they seem to say that if we have 2 similar drives, we could exchange the PCB.

would that work. has anyone tried it yet.

my drives are the same exactly. one is blocked the other not yet.

thanks for your feedback.

marc-a.

Hi Marc, Welcome here :hello:

Unfortunately that won't work :no: . Have been mentioned several times in this thread already. On some of the older models that used to work, but on the 7200.11 the PCB is specific to the drive and you risk losing both if you try that.

In this case the long cut is actually the short cut. It is actually quite easy once you get your converter sorted out.

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