VideoRipper Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 (edited) Ah... that dreadful CA-42 cable again Like already mentioned a couple of times in this thread, we can't offerany real help when using this type of cable, since there are a lot of different (clone) manufacturers out there, all using their own way ofdoing things and each with their own shortcomings, opposed to a "Real"Nokia CA-42 cable.Some do need an external (3V) power supply, some don't, while others are only able to communicate at 9600 Baud (which is too slow for our use). Unless you're at least a bit knowledgable in electronics, there's no easyand fool-proof answer to give when using it.Please have a look at this READ_ME_FIRST-thread, under "10. CONVERTORS (or Data Cables)":Data cable (typically Nokia CA-42):This is deprecated.Not because it won't work, but due to the fact that there are so many different versions of these cables, both "original" and "cheap/fakes" that it may be difficult to find the "right" connections, expecially for a newbie.I suggest you either seek help from someone with electronics knowlegde or get yourself a device that is guaranteed to work, even for the less experienced.There are a few pointers in this thread of people that have debricked theirdrive successfully with a ready made and easilly obtainable device.Don't forget this is "Higher level" electronics we're talking about here, whichcan't be compared to things like replacing a light-bulb or installing a TV. Greetz,Peter. Edited May 13, 2010 by VideoRipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawee Posted May 14, 2010 Share Posted May 14, 2010 Can you suggest any other cable that'll worksorry to ask just be alot easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salami Posted May 14, 2010 Share Posted May 14, 2010 Google for a USB to TTL converter and get one. Worked perfect for me.I also tried my luck with this cable but it was a total waste of time as i got a fake/clone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VideoRipper Posted May 14, 2010 Share Posted May 14, 2010 sorry to ask just be alot easierEasier for who? I don't know all possible solutions from the top of my head, I justbuilt a RS232 <-> TTL convertor myself on a piece of Veroboard witha MAX232, so I could use my on-board COM-port, to de-brick my drive. I don't expect others to (be able to) do the same, but the least youcould do is doing some work (and research) yourself, like using Googleas Salami suggested or scroll back a few pages in this thread. As a last resort you could also ask around here for people that livein your neighbourhood and successfully debricked a drive in the past;I'm sure a sixpack of beer would do wonders... Greetz,Peter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbelt007 Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Just wanted to add my thanks to Gradius2 for this. It did take a few attempts and I wasn't able to get the fix to work by wedging the card/paper in between the PCB and the HDD so removed it completely and it worked!!! Was a bit nervous throughout but it worked, FW update done and 1TB back and looking fabulous!!!Thanks again people!!Oliver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BetKing Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Now that I've fixed my drive, I'm looking for the firmware update. The drive came out of a Lacie, so Seagate says they won't help me (ridiculous). Lacie hasn't responded yet. Does anyone have the firmware update for my drive? Its information: ST3500620AS, firmware LC11.I would greatly appreciate getting a copy of this so I don't have to deal with either company's customer service.So you also have the ST3500620AS, and you managed to get it working with this fix. This gives me hope.I today received a Pololu 23201a Serial Adapter that seems to be a nice choice, for this fix. I am slowing working up, soldering,connecting to have a go at it. Tell you later how it works out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VideoRipper Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Just wanted to add my thanks to Gradius2 for this.Great to hear another success-story, blackbelt007! Please remember that doing a firmware update might not solve the actual problem, andyou should preferably just swap the drive now while it's still under warranty.I today received a Pololu 23201a Serial Adapter that seems to be a nice choice,That looks like a good choice indeed and you will certainly be able to "Talk" to the driveusing it, however don't forget to externally supply power to this board between the VCC-and GND-lines So you also have the ST3500620AS, and you managed to get it working with this fix. This gives me hope.Since your drive has a somewhat different firmware-version, the given procedure here *might* not work, so be carefull Tell you later how it works out. Please keep us updated! Greetz,Peter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zosch Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Hello Guys...i have some question`s about the "power" thing.Do i have to connect the PCB with the battery AND put a SATA-power cable on the HDD or is the battery enough ?And in case off only using the battery ... does the powering off and on thing means that i just have to disconnect the battery for about 10secs and then put in on again ?greetzz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VideoRipper Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 (edited) Hi Zosch,First of all I suggest you thoroughly read the instructions, since I'm under the impression you've only picked up some highlights from the procedure andare getting things messed up Not all solutions need an external battery; an external battery is only needed to power the RS-232 <=> TTL convertor, if applicable.Tell us what convertor you'll be using and we can supply you with the correct answer.While performing the debricking you need to supply power using the SATA-powerport using a normal PC-power supply (ie. +12V, +5V and GROUND).Greetz,Peter. Edited May 18, 2010 by VideoRipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BetKing Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 I today received a Pololu 23201a Serial Adapter that seems to be a nice choice,That looks like a good choice indeed and you will certainly be able to "Talk" to the driveusing it, however don't forget to externally supply power to this board between the VCC-and GND-lines I'm not quite sure what you mean, I'm going to follow the guide and it has 4 wires going from the board to the PCB of the 7200.11, and it's also using a normal molex HDD-power connector. But this with power between Vcc and GND. Hmm.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC995 Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Dear allCould anyone kindly tell me what is different between setup the LAB size through the "Seatool 2.20" and use CA-42 cable?thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilli Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Hello all,A just wanted to drop a note that since I could not update the firmware of my drive (fujitsu siemens OEM) after revocery in January, the drive failed again with boot of death within 4-5 months.I just folloew the same procedure as last time to recover it again. Now, that I have sufficient resources backup the whole drive I might try potential destructive fimrware reprogramming methods, if I find tim to play around.@PC995 If you do not write a diploma work, what is the question good for?If seatool works, don't mess around with serial communication.If your drive is looked unlock it with serial communication and make whatever you want in addition with official tools via SATA.The serial connection is for serive purpose. If you do not exactly know what you are doing (and you question impliees this) you can screw up your drive easily.RegardsChilli Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zosch Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 (edited) I just bought this converter. On the first page on the photo from the whole setup up there isn`t any SATA-powercable connected to the HDD. This is, why i am a bit confused. Edited May 19, 2010 by zosch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC995 Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Thank you!ChilliMy real problem is that my ST3500320NS ES.2 HD become ST_M13FQBL with a MAX_LBA: 8089950this problem seems like not match any solution above!!so could anyone help me out?thanks alot!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 On the first page on the photo from the whole setup up there isn`t any SATA-powercable connected to the HDD. This is, why i am a bit confused.The photo is to get an idea, the fact that the drive needs to be normally powered is implied.Why don't you FIRST read the READ-ME-FIRST ? :http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=143880Where you can find that the RECOMMENDED guide is another one:3. KNOWN TUTORIALS:http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128807(first post by gradius2 AND later posts by Aviko - slightly different methods)http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=133387(tutorial by CarterinCanada - actually RECOMMENDED) As it has clearer photos and more explicit text?http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.htmlAll the jumper wires in place (left) and the completed setup (right) ready for power to be connected to molex (lower right of photo)With the data wires plugged in from the drive to the serial adapter pins, it's time to plug the SATA power connector from your power adapter into the drive that has been prepared with the cardstock. jaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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