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The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs


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Or is there a different enclosure that someone could recommend that doesn't cover the RX/TX?

Two point JFYI:

  • you DO NOT want an enclosure
  • you DO NOT want to add an extra layer of possible problems (the USB connection)

However, if you are going to use the USB interface, get a "free" one, examples:

http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/New-USB-to-SATA-Con...=item3a53b43d76

http://cgi.ebay.com.my/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=260477902803

jaclaz

The USB cable is not used or connected. It is used simply to power the Seagate hard drive during the code sequence.

Edited by Twittwilly
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jaclaz, I have the Coolmax power supply at http://www.coolmaxusa.com/productDetails.a...egory=converter and it DOES block the RX/TX connections with the corner of the square. I don't see how the one from Hong Kong on eBay could be any different.

Twittwilly, I looked at the enclosure on Amazon and it looks just like the one I bought. I don't have time to take a picture and upload it to show what I am referring to right now, but I need to push the drive onto the SATA connections in the enclosure and when it is on all the way, there is no access to the RX/TX. I have an extra male to female SATA connection, but don't I also need to connect the SATA interface as well? If that's not needed, then I think I may have figured out my confusion. :)

- MRA

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quote name='MRA' date='Oct 30 2009, 10:43 AM' post='890593']

jaclaz, I have the Coolmax power supply at http://www.coolmaxusa.com/productDetails.a...egory=converter and it DOES block the RX/TX connections with the corner of the square. I don't see how the one from Hong Kong on eBay could be any different.

Twittwilly, I looked at the enclosure on Amazon and it looks just like the one I bought. I don't have time to take a picture and upload it to show what I am referring to right now, but I need to push the drive onto the SATA connections in the enclosure and when it is on all the way, there is no access to the RX/TX. I have an extra male to female SATA connection, but don't I also need to connect the SATA interface as well? If that's not needed, then I think I may have figured out my confusion. :)

- MRA

No. It really isn't the same thing that you purchased. It doesn't connect by sliding the mounting tray back into the enclosure. Once again, all the connections are on the sliding mounting tray itself. The power wire is quite long enough to easily permit turning the hard drive to permit unhindered access to the pins. In fact, it's long enough to lay the drive beside the tray.

Here are a couple of pictures of the Acomdata:

As you can see, the length of the power cable to the hard drive is long enough to provide very easy access to the pins. This is a top view of the tray. There is a metal cover placed over it. But it is very easily removed for placement of the drive or gaining access to the connection wires. Just gently press the sides of the metal cover and pull up.

post-262750-1256925894_thumb.jpg

The On/Off Swtich and AC power connection are also on the tray

post-262750-1256926099_thumb.jpg

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jaclaz, I have the Coolmax power supply at http://www.coolmaxusa.com/productDetails.a...egory=converter and it DOES block the RX/TX connections with the corner of the square. I don't see how the one from Hong Kong on eBay could be any different.

Maybe because it has NOT a "corner" and NOT a "square"? :whistle:

The "poorman's" choice has a simple SATA Power to "plain IDE Power" Converter.

Maybe it's clearer from this photo this type of design:

cb-isatau2-4.jpg

(the above is from Vantec)

However, since you already have the Coolmax, do as Twittwilly explained B) IF your SATA power cable is long enough, otherwise get an extension, something like these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16812189190

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Module...;!_11914225

jaclaz

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hey guys. my drive crashed again. i'm tryin the CA-42 method this time, but i can't find and drivers for it that work for XP64. i tried those prolific ones, no dice. anybody got a CA-42 driver that works for XP64?

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Just to let you guys know, my backup and restoration to a new drive of the dreaded Seagate Barracuda clone, using Bart PE/DriveImage XML and VMware VMserver 2.0 software, was completed successfully.

Fact of the matter is that I was somewhat surprised at just how well it went. As I previously mentioned , after the firmware repair the Seagate booted up very slowly. Therefore, I was expecting to have to wait for a bit after restarting with the BartPE/DriveImage boot disc before the Seagate could be used. But, lo and behold, there it was! I was immediately able to create a new folder for the backup files, set up the source and destination drives and begin the backup process.

So, I'm currently working off the newly created hard drive with the files that were on the Seagate, free from worries about any future problems.

In my particular case, the Seagate contained about 250GB of content. The backup files generated to the destination drive used (a Western Digital 500GB purchased and installed at the time the Seagate initially went down) numbered 419. Of course, depending on the content of your drive, that number will vary.

Following everything, the only thing I had to do was to transfer a few folders I had created in My Documents, the Outlook .dat and Internet Explorer Favorites files over to the newly restored drive to bring it up to date.

The Western Digital (containing the backup files from the Seagate) will now be stored away for any future drive restoration needs. The Seagate will be degaussed, rendering it unreadable and useless.

I would highly recommend to those of you who haven't tried the cloning process yet to do so. It is the most effective method to ensure the complete recovery of your hard drive should anything happen. Following the cloning of the drive, the only thing left to do is to back up your data (with any of the typical back-up programs available) on a daily basis prior to shut down so that any loss will be kept to an absolute minimum.

Bart PE/DriveImage XML cloning software does not allow for incremental back ups. However, other retail programs are out there that will. If you don't mind using a separate data back-up program, then you can't beat the price of Bart PE/DriveImage

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I've read almost this entire post and am still not real sure if I have the BSY problem or LBA 0 or neither.. so any help is really appreciated.

I have two 500gb seagates that were in a raid 1 setup. they are

ST3500320AS with SD81 firmware originally.

both drives failed at about the same time.

drive 1: detects and i can see the data but can only copy a few files before it loses it and the drive disappears from windows (or unbuntu).

i flashed this drive to SD1A and now it throws SMART errors when posting and seems to not disappear in windows as often but it still fails and can't copy files. sometimes I'll get a several gb to copy before it fails; sometimes I can't get a single text file.

once the drives fails I can reboot and it will detect it as 0 gb.

if i power off and turn the pc back on, it will show up correctly again, let me copy a file or two (sometimes) and this disappear.

drive 2: won't detect at all; actually locks up during post when its plugged in. doesn't spin properly either, makes a sound like this (not mine but sounds the same) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6m8tsUOA2_0

I'm willing a try any of these fixes, but am not sure if my symptoms match. of course seagate denies this is a firmware problem. neither S/N shows in their list.

thanks very much for your input!

--Paul

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If I may :unsure::

So, I'm currently working off the newly created hard drive with the files that were on the Seagate, free from worries about any future problems.

I doubt that Western Digital (or any other brand) ensures you against "any future problems".

What it seems to me as a general failure of perception in this thread is that hard disk drives are very similar one to another, no matter which brand/manufacturer.

Seagate is not "worse" than "Brand B" (nor "better"), similar problems happened for a given model to a number of other manufacturers, what Seagate really sucked at was in the support and official resolution of the problems, besides trying to hide the gravity and extent of them. They showed off as a child being caught with his hands in the marmalade, trying to deny the evindent truth of facts.

BUT Hard disk drives FAIL, for a number of reasons.

The ONLY way to make sure that a certain data will be retrievable in the future is redundancy, the probabilities of two or three different media failing ALL is very, very low.

The Seagate will be degaussed, rendering it unreadable and useless.

It seems to me perfectly pointless.

If the problem is your privacy i.e. ensuring that noone will be able to read the data, just zero out the drive with cmm secure erase and be done with it.

Moreover, once a drive has been properly re-conditioned and with an updated firmware, it has roughly the same chances of failing that any other drive (if it failed for the known "320" in log problem) from any other manufacturer, so, being cheap, I wouldn't "throw away an otherwise perfectly working HD, I would rather use it as "supplemental" storage.

jaclaz

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If I may :unsure::

I doubt that Western Digital (or any other brand) ensures you against "any future problems".

What it seems to me as a general failure of perception in this thread is that hard disk drives are very similar one to another, no matter which brand/manufacturer.

Seagate is not "worse" than "Brand B" (nor "better"), similar problems happened for a given model to a number of other manufacturers, what Seagate really sucked at was in the support and official resolution of the problems, besides trying to hide the gravity and extent of them. They showed off as a child being caught with his hands in the marmalade, trying to deny the evindent truth of facts.

BUT Hard disk drives FAIL, for a number of reasons.

The ONLY way to make sure that a certain data will be retrievable in the future is redundancy, the probabilities of two or three different media failing ALL is very, very low.

It seems to me perfectly pointless.

If the problem is your privacy i.e. ensuring that noone will be able to read the data, just zero out the drive with cmm secure erase and be done with it.

Moreover, once a drive has been properly re-conditioned and with an updated firmware, it has roughly the same chances of failing that any other drive (if it failed for the known "320" in log problem) from any other manufacturer, so, being cheap, I wouldn't "throw away an otherwise perfectly working HD, I would rather use it as "supplemental" storage.

jaclaz

Oh yes, redundancy is a good thing. That has already been taken care of. I was thinking back to the number of issues I've had over the past couple of years with various name brand drives and went ahead and made a couple of copies of the restoration files to DVD and an external HD.

As for the Seagate, I wouldn't trust my particular drive again under any circumstances. I don't need it for storage. I have a few external HDs. Since I own a degausser, that is the only way to go for me.

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Since I own a degausser, that is the only way to go for me.

I am sure you also own a mallet or large, heavy hammer, and from experience, disposing of a failed piece of hardware by hitting it several times and really hard with a hammer is a practice that brings a lot of relief and peace of mind, much more than using a degausser. ;)

:P

jaclaz

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No. It really isn't the same thing that you purchased. It doesn't connect by sliding the mounting tray back into the enclosure. Once again, all the connections are on the sliding mounting tray itself. The power wire is quite long enough to easily permit turning the hard drive to permit unhindered access to the pins. In fact, it's long enough to lay the drive beside the tray.

Here are a couple of pictures of the Acomdata:

As you can see, the length of the power cable to the hard drive is long enough to provide very easy access to the pins. This is a top view of the tray. There is a metal cover placed over it. But it is very easily removed for placement of the drive or gaining access to the connection wires. Just gently press the sides of the metal cover and pull up.

post-262750-1256925894_thumb.jpg

The On/Off Swtich and AC power connection are also on the tray

post-262750-1256926099_thumb.jpg

Thank you for the pictures, Twittwilly! That looks like it would definitely do the job. The Coolmax that I have does not have any cables, just the double SATA connection built into the enclosure that you have to push the drive onto. But I think I am going with the SATA power extension cable recommended by jaclaz from Newegg that no one that I've spoken to at stores believe exists. :) $2.99 is better than spending another $29.99 or so.

Thanks!

MRA

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However, since you already have the Coolmax, do as Twittwilly explained B) IF your SATA power cable is long enough, otherwise get an extension, something like these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16812189190

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Module...;!_11914225

jaclaz

Thank you, jaclaz! I have ordered the SATA power extension cable from Newegg now and am hoping it will be here by Wednesday. I feel confident that this is the last piece of the puzzle that I need.

- MRA

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Hello People,

Someone please help. I followed this DIY guide but after the last command m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22. It's been 2hours now and I don't see anything. The first post by Gradius said that turning off the drive without seeing something after m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 will ruin the drive.

Here's my log in HyperTerminal so far:

-----------------------------

F3 T>/2

F3 2>Z

Spin Down Complete

Elaspsed Time 0.147 msecs

F3 2>U

Spin Up Complete

Elaspsed Time 6.894 secs

F3 2>/1

F3 1>N1

F3 1>/

F3 T>m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22

Can somone help please?

thanks

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