The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

[Greenie17]

Well it seems that no one is looking at this thread anymore. Too bad. I did get to page 89 finally and see that the CA-53 does not work. So I ordered up a CA-42 and will just wait for it to get in and try it.

[isoxene]

Hi all! I was wondering if mine would fall under the BSY category or worse? Everytime i plug in my hard drive (7200.11 FW:SD15), the head will make some sort noise that goes tuu..tee...tuu.... akin to a motherboard having a bad BIOS firmware. I was wondering if all of you ppl out there are getting such noises upon powering up?

The hard drive was working fine until one day it decided to stop working for good. Now, the drive is undetectable and I've lost over 200GBs of data inside. And I bought it in October 08!!! Even my 9 year old 10.2GB Quantum Fireball is still working today!! What a total disappointment.

My hdd hasn't such noises upon powering up.

First, you can try to repair your hdd with this method.

If this method doesn't work then you can try this one:

I have found the "trrrrr" solution at this webpage:

http://translate.google.es/translate?u=htt...es&ie=UTF-8

Is this "trrrrr" solution valid for my HDD(3500320AS:Firmware:SD15)?

I have following error.

-------------------------------------

F3 1>/2

F3 2>U

Error 1009 DETSEC 00006008

Spin Error

Elapsed Time 7 mins 17 secs

R/W Status 2 R/W Error 84150180

-------------------------------------

Anyone found a solution to this 'Error 1009'? Tried separating pcb completely and card method-no dice. Same sound from drive as WolfDie: http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?act=at...st&id=24915

Pressing on card as suggested by pichi in another post did not make difference, and " "trrrrr" solution at this webpage" suggest using tweezers but I am unsure exactly and afraid to experiment as the translation is not very clear. How about someone compiling a list of answers from these 90+ pages-alot of people are posting success posts- which is very good to know that things are working - but could be good to compile solutions so there is no need to go through everything and risk missing some clues?

-Using cable CA-42 clone, made in China, M/N: DG-U8A-only three wires, fell apart from usb connection when tearing plastic off-managed to solder them back on-no markings for 'gnd', 'tx' or 'rx' but loopback test successful and first 2 commands for BSY fix working-link for cable:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270436113011&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:1123

If you enter the terminal command

F3 2>U

response returns the following lines

Error 1009 DETSEC 00006008

Spin Error

Elapsed Time 53.959 secs

R/W Status 2 R/W Error 84150180

likely that you have a mechanical problem with the hard disk and then the terminal will not help."

-russian thread, maybe they do know more about this? previously Gradius recommended to someone to RMA if this happened, think around p.50?

Edited September 6, 2009 by isoxene

[jaclaz]

I have been reading through all of this and I got to page 50 before I decided to just add a couple questions before I TRY to get my drive back up and running.

First some background information:

I have a GOOD STM31000334AS and a BAD STM31000334AS.

The bad drive is not seen in the bios and does make a bit of a clicking sound every 10 seconds or so. Seagate says that this is not a firmware issue and is a bad drive and just said to send it back for replacement. I don't want to do that until I am SURE that I can't get it fixed first.

I took the good board and put it on the bad drive and the drive is THEN seen in the bios but makes stranger sounds for 20 seconds and then system will not boot. I should note there that this is NOT my boot drive so not sure why vista won't boot. I unplug the bad drive and it boots fine.

...

A few points:

• "clicking" sound generally means that the head arm is "stuck". this has nothing to do with the "general" issue of the "wrong value flashed to HD firmware" which this thread is about
  
• the whole or at least the most of this thread is originated from the fact that with modern hard disks you simply CANNOT swap boards (and expect the drive will start working)
  
• don't trust connecting directly to the motherboard a drive if you are not sure of what you have done to it, it is much safer to use one of those pretty much inexpensive USB converters or an external case
  

There are several forms of "voodoo" around the internet about how to "unhook" a stuck arm, but noone can tell whether they will work or not.

Typically there are two school of thought:

• freezing the drive in a ziplock bag overnight before connecting it
  
• slightly tapping on the drive when connected
  

An advised troubleshoot path would be:

• "fix" the electronic part as detailed in this thread until the drive is at least recognized, once you have the right cable
  
• the clicking sound is NOT normal and cannot be solved by the methods on this thread, you will need to search around for a solution for it elsewhere, see as an exampole the post just above this for the "trrrr" sound
  
• in any case, make sure that you have ready the "space" (an empty drive big enough) and the means (OS, software, cables, whatever) to save the data QUICKLY, should you be able to "revive" the hard disk, both the "freezing" and the "tapping" are not "solutions" are temporary workarounds and even if they work, they work intermittently and for a limited period of time
  

jaclaz

[03Vette]

I just bought a genuine Nokia cable with the chip inside and got nothing. Would someone out there be willing to sell the cable that worked for you? It seems like the cables are pretty flaky and I don't really want to keep buyin cables that don't work. PM me if you are interested in selling yours.

[freshmen1020]

I do have a question,

I was following the thread and was wondering what I am doing wrong.

I added the wire for the HDD Tx/Rx and connected them into the CA-42 Rx/Tx then connected the CA-42 USB to the pc usb slot

Then went to the hyperterminal and can't seem to connect to the HDD

Is there something that I missed?

[KlingKlang]

to: freshmen1020 & 03Vette

I´m sure that your cable is working fine. Have you tried to connect +3v on the cable?

My CA-42 was not detected in windows until i connected a 3v battery and it suddenly

was detected. The reason for it works with a nokia phone, is that the phone is powering

the cable with +3V. I´m going to post a series of pictures so you can test if it works or not.

if your inpatient, check my previous post at page ~85-86 something.

/Cheers, KlingKlang

[Naviganti]

thanks so much. How can I send a donation?

[jaclaz]

thanks so much. How can I send a donation?

It is not needed, not required (or if required, possibly NOT allowed), see Rule #13:

http://www.msfn.org/board/forum-rules-upda...ead-t18408.html

I guess your thanks are enough.

jaclaz

[KlingKlang]

to: freshmen1020 & 03Vette and everyone else wondering about the CA-42.

Correct pinout for the Genuine Nokia CA-42 is:

Pin 1 = Ground (Black)

Pin 2 = Tx (White)

Pin 3 = Rx (Blue)

Pin 4 = ??

Pin 5 = +3.3v (Red)

Pin 6 = ?? (Yellow)

Use a multimeter to determine what color you cable has.

Close-up of usb-contact.

Close-up other side of usb-contact.

Close-up of the circuit. The white plastic-cover has been removed.

Close-up of the circuit. The white plastic-cover has been removed.

Wiring close-up. Because i used a 3-connector audiocable, i jumpered

the black and white ON THE AUDIOCABLE on one connector, not the usb-cable.

I then used the second to the hdd-connectors and the third to connect to the usb-cable.

The important are that you connect +3V to the red usb-cable and black usb-cable.

Wiring close-up.

More wiring pictures... The red-black is connected to the white-audio cable and should be

connected to the Gnd on the battery, while the red usb-cable should be connected to +3.3V.

The computer SHOULD detect "Nokia Parent Phone Modem" when you powerup the usbcable with a battery.

Dont forget to install the drivers!

white, blue and black is from the usb-cable, red, yellow and black are audiocable.

Hdd-connectors... Here i removed the connectors to the audiocable and put a tiny heat shrink hose

around to prevent from short circuit. Use a very tiny hose or it might be to clumsy. It is

also a good idea to use a needle to poke on the connectors so the can grab the small pins on the hdd.

Follow the rest of Gradius2´s guide for the rest.

See post #1583 for further details!

Well, it looks like a rat´s nest, but it worked for me.

email me: henric_tomasson[at]hotmail.com if you have more questions

Edited September 10, 2009 by KlingKlang

[jaclaz]

Well, it looks like a rat´s nest, but it worked for me.

Just for the record, rat's nests have been historically proven to be actually an efficient, working solution (for rats).

[fer]

Hi again!

I have a one more question on the BSY error. Here are two guides:

http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html

http://sites.google.com/site/seagatefix/

I noticed a certain difference between these two. The first one instructs you to put card stock above the _motor_ contacts, and not over the head contacts. The second guide actually instructs you to do it the other way around, to put card stock above the _head_ contacts. And isn't it even so that the guide in this thread effectively instructs you to disconnect both of them, and not just one of the two?

Could anyone please shed some light on this? Is one way of doing it more reliable than the other for some reason?

Thanks!

/fer

[KlingKlang]

This is the correct method.

Place the paper/card between the "head contact" and the PCB.

Remove it AFTER spindown is completed as Gradius2 describes on page 1.

"Now the tricky part. Pratice a lot without any power before even trying this. You need to make sure that the screws don't touch the PCB board where they aren't suppose to or you will fry your PCB board. If you have been practicing and the power is not connected, start at STEP ONE.

With the POWER CONNECTED to the PCB board, as well as your TX/RX terminal wires, mount the board back on the HDA case. You must have the power connected when you do this."

This is when you should remove the paper. You could place a paper on the "motor contact"

if you want to but there is really no point doing so. It would only shorten the spindown time (i think).

And that is already short enough.

/KlingKlang

[estong]

THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!!

Special Thanks to Gradius2 for providing the key solution; Thank you garsh for building a detailed solution and bbard for posting the link for Arkmicro Driver download.

Successfully unbricked a Seagate Barracuda ST3500320AS 500GB using Generic CA-42 data cable. I've made a worklog of the process I did at davaoblogger.com

THANK YOU AGAIN

[Ayrox]

Hello people somebody help me¡¡¡ i have a serial cable of an old mouse, and i connect it to the PCB and when i wrote at the hyperterminal i see the characters on the screen, even with the GND cable coneected to the GND of the PCB. but when i plug the SATA power tho the PCB, ocurr two things:

1. When i write Ctrl+z, only appear an arrow, not the F3

or

2. If i connect the GND cable to the GND on the PCB, i can't wrote anything in the hyperterminal.

I try change the Tx and RX and nothing happens.

¿Would be that i need connect the cable of energy to some font? or what more can i do? I'm desperate¡¡¡

[dencorso]

There are 1838 posts before yours. Read them all patiently, and all will become clear to you. The price for not doing this is risking to fry your HDD for being in a haste. Take your time. Desperation only leads to failure. Easy does it.