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The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs


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Doesn't seem too complicated except for the picture in the first post shows the - of the 3v battery connected to the GND of the adapter when it should ALSO be connected to GND of the HD too right according to #7 of the Read Me First sticky right?

Other than that it looks pretty simple battery + side to the adapter VCC, RX to TX and vice versa, - and HD GND to adapter GND and of course the RS232 into the computer, am I missing anything? Will post again when the parts arrive.

Think Octopus :w00t: :

;)

jaclaz

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Doesn't seem too complicated except for the picture in the first post shows the - of the 3v battery connected to the GND of the adapter when it should ALSO be connected to GND of the HD too right according to #7 of the Read Me First sticky right?

Other than that it looks pretty simple battery + side to the adapter VCC, RX to TX and vice versa, - and HD GND to adapter GND and of course the RS232 into the computer, am I missing anything? Will post again when the parts arrive.

Think Octopus :w00t: :

;)

jaclaz

LOL didn't think of that, would make life easier to get all 3 clamped together at a single point. I was seriously thinking of putting them in series or something -_-

EDIT: Really meant 4, forgot about the black GND from the PSU powering the hard drive

Edited by opiuman
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Alright so I got everything set up however right when I did CTRL+Z I got to

F3 T>

WITHOUT disconnecting the head or motor contacts which is supposed to indicate my drive isn't actually suffering from the problem. This is when I got really confused and put it back into my computer and now it shows up in BIOS and Windows Explorer but causes the computer to take an additional minute to start Windows. AND when I try to access the drive in Windows Explorers it hangs for quite awhile with the progress bar slowly filling with green but never completing. At this point I can see SOME to ALL files but as soon as I try to access any of them it takes awhile and seems to never do anything. Not sure what's going on anymore. Drive spins up fine, no odd noises.

EDIT: Ugh, managed to get it to boot and be seen in Ubuntu and I can navigate the drive fine and see files but can't play or read or copy anything. I think I'm SOL on this one.

Edited by opiuman
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opiuman

With all due respect :), you are doing silly things :w00t: .

The idea is:

  1. hopefully be able to access the contents of the data and copy them elsewhere (which means don't EVEN THINK of attempting booting from it)
  2. once data is safe, carry BOTH Seagate "short" and "long" tests
  3. if BOTH are successful, then wipe and reformat (and in any case the drive is to be considered "not reliable" or actually "less reliable than the usually non-reliable level of ANY disk")
  4. if a new firmware is availabel decide whether trying to update the disk or leave it as is

If any of the two tests fails, then the disk drive is "gone", you can use it to do experiments, try weird and dangerous things or use it a door holder, but DO NOT EVEN THINK to put data again on it, let alone installing an OS to it.

BUT, as it has come out in time, the "m0, etc". constitutes a sort of "reset" of the disk, so, ONCE you have:

  1. got back the data
  2. performed the two tests and one or both have failed

you can TRY doing anyway the procedure, and IF you are lucky AND you try again the two Seagate tests AND BOTH are OK, then you have a working disk drive.

Conversely, if you cannot access the data AND you have not enough money for professional data recovery OR you already have the data copied safely elsewhere OR they simply do not represent for you a several hundred dollars value, THEN you have nothing to lose in try reviving the hard disk anyway.

jaclaz

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opiuman

With all due respect :), you are doing silly things :w00t: .

The idea is:

  1. hopefully be able to access the contents of the data and copy them elsewhere (which means don't EVEN THINK of attempting booting from it)
  2. once data is safe, carry BOTH Seagate "short" and "long" tests
  3. if BOTH are successful, then wipe and reformat (and in any case the drive is to be considered "not reliable" or actually "less reliable than the usually non-reliable level of ANY disk")
  4. if a new firmware is availabel decide whether trying to update the disk or leave it as is

If any of the two tests fails, then the disk drive is "gone", you can use it to do experiments, try weird and dangerous things or use it a door holder, but DO NOT EVEN THINK to put data again on it, let alone installing an OS to it.

BUT, as it has come out in time, the "m0, etc". constitutes a sort of "reset" of the disk, so, ONCE you have:

  1. got back the data
  2. performed the two tests and one or both have failed

you can TRY doing anyway the procedure, and IF you are lucky AND you try again the two Seagate tests AND BOTH are OK, then you have a working disk drive.

Conversely, if you cannot access the data AND you have not enough money for professional data recovery OR you already have the data copied safely elsewhere OR they simply do not represent for you a several hundred dollars value, THEN you have nothing to lose in try reviving the hard disk anyway.

jaclaz

No offense taken, you're the expert here so I respect your opinion. Sorry I meant that I didn't actually boot up from the bad drive itself, booted up from a good drive and using the bad drive just to see if I can see it. I'll follow your advice and see what I can do. Thanks for everyones help.

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No offense taken, you're the expert here so I respect your opinion. Sorry I meant that I didn't actually boot up from the bad drive itself, booted up from a good drive and using the bad drive just to see if I can see it. I'll follow your advice and see what I can do. Thanks for everyones help.

Just in case, the procedure involves using some "good" program to attempt imaging the disk, first thing, some hints are given here:

http://reboot.pro/7783/

http://reboot.pro/15040/

http://reboot.pro/15040/#entry133567

jaclaz

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The motor spins up and the drive makes like 12 kick noises and then the motor stops, but there is no output to the serial terminal and it does not respond to Ctrl-Z.

That was the original symptom.

I notice that if I isolate the hda and or motor pins, even the good drives with Firmware CC1H and CC1J do not work, do not respond to Ctrl-Z or anything.

Do you know if this method of entering Diagnostic mode has been modified on recent firmware versions?

I have read many of the pages in this forum now and it looks like for my drive, apart from sending it to DR places, which would cost a lot for having messed with the ROM, I will only have the crude freezing or tapping methods.

Can anyone please help me? I have 31500341AS with CC1H 1.5 tb, and one morning the drive just died. I have tried to revive it , but any method found on this pages ain't working. When connected, the drive click's couple of times, and after that just stops. I tried isolating a head or motor contacts, but I can't get anything on hyperterminal, but circuit is working. I tried to test it with a ca42 cable and TTL adapter, but nothing. I tried as many as 20 procedures of fixing my drive but neither of them works. Can you please help me, or direct me, becasue, this drive stopped working suddenly, so I didn't back up my data. It's really important that this drive works. Please, help me. :(

Regards.

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Can anyone please help me? I have 31500341AS with CC1H 1.5 tb, and one morning the drive just died. I have tried to revive it , but any method found on this pages ain't working. When connected, the drive click's couple of times, and after that just stops. I tried isolating a head or motor contacts, but I can't get anything on hyperterminal, but circuit is working. I tried to test it with a ca42 cable and TTL adapter, but nothing. I tried as many as 20 procedures of fixing my drive but neither of them works. Can you please help me, or direct me, becasue, this drive stopped working suddenly, so I didn't back up my data. It's really important that this drive works. Please, help me. :(

If it's clicking, most likely you cannot do anything about it (i.e. it sufferes from a different illness from the ones we have a cure for). :(

But still, you should be able to access the terminal normally, and send commands and have feedback from it.

If you don't then you have most probably an additional issue in your setup/connection or an actually "fried" PCB (this latter is unlikely, but possible).

jaclaz

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But still, you should be able to access the terminal normally, and send commands and have feedback from it.

If you don't then you have most probably an additional issue in your setup/connection or an actually "fried" PCB (this latter is unlikely, but possible).

jaclaz

Is there any cure for that? I have heard of replacing PCB-s and other stuff, but I don't know what to do. Most of my collection was on that disk, and because I didn't have another, I don't have any backup. I just need to "repair" it for a 30 minutes to transfer all of my data to another disk. Never again Seagate. I have gave them so much money over the years, and now I have a couple of bricks instead of working disk's. I have heard about freezing the disk, or heating it if this is a symptom of "click of doom" and some of the users said that it worked for them. But, i really wouldn't like to literally fry my drive if that isn't last resort.

If U have any sugestions or idea, if U need some more information, please, let me know because I'm practicly desperate. I will send you olive oil and kulen from Croatia. yes.gif

Thanx in advance.

Goran

Edited by frizider
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Is there any cure for that? I have heard of replacing PCB-s and other stuff, but I don't know what to do. Most of my collection was on that disk, and because I didn't have another, I don't have any backup. I just need to "repair" it for a 30 minutes to transfer all of my data to another disk. Never again Seagate. I have gave them so much money over the years, and now I have a couple of bricks instead of working disk's. I have heard about freezing the disk, or heating it if this is a symptom of "click of doom" and some of the users said that it worked for them. But, i really wouldn't like to literally fry my drive if that isn't last resort.

If U have any sugestions or idea, if U need some more information, please, let me know because I'm practicly desperate. I will send you olive oil and kulen from Croatia. yes.gif

The problem you see, is that - basically - a clicking disk is usually connected to some "calibration data" lost.

A PCB swap (remember that for these disks a "transplant" of the ROM is also needed) is likely to have no effect whatsoever.

Both the freezing and heating (together with "percussive maintenance") are in my view mostly more (shamelessly copied sentence):

a kind of voodoo incantation to banish evil spirits than the result of a technical analysis of drive

inner working.

If you have nothing to lose (like a bricked disk drive BUT all your data safe in a backup) there is nothing bad in trying them, at the most the disk will remain bricked.

BUT if you value the data on it, simply DO NOT EVEN THINK of doing anything the like. :ph34r:

It is another thing in common with the medicine field, if you have a disease for which there is no cure today, your best bet is to be able to survive the time needed for a cure to be found.

If you need the data and you need it now, I am sorry for you :( but the only way is to go to a professional and pay him/her a dear price to recover the data )if possible at all).

Make sure, double sure and triple sure, if you decide to go this way, to verify the credentials of the professional service, as I suspect that there are more then a few self-defined recovery experts around.

The risk with them, besides not having the data back (if possible to recover them) is that they could by mistake do something to the drive that would prevent furrther recovery by a real expert, conversely your attempts - if for any reason "wrong" - may do the same or, in the best case, increase the estimated cost for recovery.

The PCB when disconnected from the mechanics (but of course powered through the SATA cable) should anyway be accessible from terminal, if it is not either the PCB itself has some issues or the TTL adapter/serial/usb you are using to access it have one....

jaclaz

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Ok, let's first try to understand the actual problem.

I tried isolating a head or motor contacts, but I can't get anything on hyperterminal, but circuit is working.

Does that mean the Loopback Test is working?

I agree with jaclaz that

The PCB when disconnected from the mechanics (but of course powered through the SATA cable) should anyway be accessible from terminal, if it is not either the PCB itself has some issues or the TTL adapter/serial/usb you are using to access it have one....

so tell us exactly what you did, how you connected everything (including ground) so that we can try and figure out what you are doing wrong (or what is broken)

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Hi guys, just joined after finding out about this potential fix for Seagate hard drive.

My drive is 500gb and I didn't do the F712 command.

I entered last command (m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22)., and not getting any result back in the terminal.

It's been over 1 hour and still nothing.

Can I disconnect HyperTerminal and try again? Or will that completely destroy my data?

Edited by billyblak
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Hi guys, just joined after finding out about this potential fix for Seagate hard drive.

My drive is 500gb and I didn't do the F712 command.

I entered last command (m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22)., and not getting any result back in the terminal.

It's been over 1 hour and still nothing.

Can I disconnect HyperTerminal and try again? Or will that completely destroy my data?

You probably also did not do the "optional" power down. You can safely do so now and resume from after the "optional" power down stage.

Edited by BlouBul
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hi all,

first of all, thanks a lot for this thread and the information about fixing this hard drive issue.

I have a Seagate Barracuda 500GB, and I've done what was explained , and the operation was finished without errors. My hard drive is now seen in my BIOS (and with right size)

BUT, Windows see no partition on it and don't display its size.

I've tried in order:

- easus data recovery FREE edition: it has seen all my files with right size, but when restoring files, they are unreadable

- I tried testdisk: it has seen the partition , I've done a WRITE partition table, reboot, and nothing better in Windows

- I tried booting in knoopix, but It can't see the disk also.

anybody has a magic idea ???

thanks a lot

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I've tried in order:

- easus data recovery FREE edition: it has seen all my files with right size, but when restoring files, they are unreadable

- I tried testdisk: it has seen the partition , I've done a WRITE partition table, reboot, and nothing better in Windows

- I tried booting in knoopix, but It can't see the disk also.

Hmmm. :rolleyes:

The general idea is to ask for help BEFORE writing anything TO the disk.

anybody has a magic idea ???

There are no "magic ideas" :no: , there are only a few "common ideas" :w00t: , that are actually procedures to attempt recovering the data :yes: .

Mind you it is very possible that by using an UNsuitable tool in an UNsuitable way, even if the firmware unbricking procedure was successful you effectively corrupted the disk contents beyond any possible recovery :(.

What you should do now would be:

  1. STOP fiddling with the disk
  2. make a dd-like image of it
  3. start a new thread asking for assistance in the recovery

An example of the procedure involved is given here (and links within):

jaclaz

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