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Computer Won't turn on


spacesurfer

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My old computer that I built has a ASUS P5GDC-V mobo and a Pentium 4 3.0 Ghz processor.

It's not turning on anymore. When I open the case, I see that the green light is on inside. But it just won't turn on at all - no POST, no DVD/CD drive lights come on like they usually do when first turning on.

So, question is:

1) Could it be that my PSU needs replacement? I've been having a HDD problem in that one as well - it crapped out a couple of times - would not getting power to HDD cause it to be not detected at times?

2) Would the green light on mean that the PSU works?

3) If the processor is burned out, would the computer turn on at all to POST?

If I can't get it to work, then I think I'm gonna have to shell out some money for a new MOBO + processor and will need help with choosing the right one. I got an okay from my honey-bunny <--- very important!

Thanks.

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1) could be. Tough you could first try to remove every additional card, reset the memory modules and video card (if not onboard) and retry. Also test with memory modules one by one if applicable. A good reset of the board can help sometimes.

2) it proves it's plugged in but not that it's working 100%

3) no. The processor really does it all.

Good luck.

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i would say its probly your motherboard, but id take it into your local pc shop, they can hook up testers & stuff so u can have the right diagnosis for a small fee, my local shop charges 15 bucks to do that.. so its not too much :)

u can remove stuff , like harddrive & videocard, it will post or give a beep saying that those are missing, but it will rule those things out for u

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From repair experience, the power supply is the most likely culprit. The green light simply shows that the standby power is still available, but that doesn't mean that the PSU will give enough power to start anything up. It's not always the cause, but without any other info it's always the first thing to suspect.

Also don't ignore the battery. Yes, really, that coin-shaped silver object. I've just had a computer in for repair, which failed to do anything at all, checked everything and swapped in-and-out everything. Finally, put the battery in another motherboard and had exactly the same symptoms. That particular battery is like the death-pill to any motherboard. Usually you can tell when the battery is failing -- not this one.

.

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Yes, I am suspecting the power supply... if it was failing, it would also cause hard drive problems, wouldn't it if the hard drive didn't receive enough power...

cause I really think there is nothing wrong with my HDD as the SMART report showed everything was okay but it just crapped out twice prob from not enough power.

Also, how long do CMOS batteries usually last? My mobo is 3.5 years old. I've never replaced that battery before. I'll look into that as well.

Thanks.

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2) Would the green light on mean that the PSU works?
It ONLY shows that the 5V line of your PSU is "OK".
That particular battery is like the death-pill to any motherboard. Usually you can tell when the battery is failing -- not this one.
Interesting, I never had that. What motherboard are we talking about here?
Also, how long do CMOS batteries usually last? My mobo is 3.5 years old. I've never replaced that battery before. I'll look into that as well.
Out of the box it could fail, but I don´t think it´s your problem there...

Like other said, swap out that PSU. Don´t tell us what brand it is ;).

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A good PSU for about $50 USD? I have 2 SATA HDD, 2 CD/DVD (1 IDE and 1 SATA).

I'm thinking 600 watts should be enough. I need at least 3 SATA connectors. I do have converters but would be great if the PSU had at least 2.

What is the diff between 24 pin and 20+4 pin?

I'm looking at this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16817162017

Edited by spacesurfer
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What is the diff between 24 pin and 20+4 pin?

I'm looking at this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16817162017

Well, if your motherboard has only 20 pins you can only use the 20+4 version, it´s a 24 pin connector where you can take 4 pins off, so to say.

Ahum... that´s a really... really bad PSU...

Check out the Antec earthwatts EA380, 10 bucks more but worth 10 times more.

And cheap if you beleve in MIR: COOLER MASTER eXtreme RP-500-PCAR, 17USD :P.

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I won´t see why you need more, the 12V lines are the most important these days and a hard disk takes up about max.12W, a DVD-RW not much either.

Do NOT look at the silly model numbers, "600W" or anything like that on a PSU doesn´t say anything (besides marketing crap) ;).

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Well I tried, it seems that you 2 (spacesurfer and Tripredacus) are blind to see the difference between a cheap a** 400W PSU (17-19A on ONE 12V line) and a real 380W PSU (TWO times 17A (Lets say 30A combined?) (TWO 12V lines)).

Dig out your pocket and go for a "future proof" PSU: SeaSonic S12 Energy Plus SS-650HT.

That should do the trick :).

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