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Salami

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  1. I have to ask this question... After all the bad thing the Seagate 7200.11 comes with, isnt it a good thing you can unbrick it? When i look at my new Western Digital drive, there are no Pins leading outside, like on the Seagate. Maybe (if a serial error as on the Seagate should happen on a WD drive) you have to solder some cables to the PCB to communicate with it? I have Seagate 7200.7 not recognized in Bios IBM Deskstar IC35SL klicking noise Maxtor 6Y120 klicking noise Maxtor 6Y200 klicking noise beside my desk for YEARS. Maybe these also can be unbricked? Well, i`ll never know... Just some thoughts..
  2. Google for a USB to TTL converter and get one. Worked perfect for me. I also tried my luck with this cable but it was a total waste of time as i got a fake/clone.
  3. I had kind of this problem (Error messages/clicking sounds/nothing) after the "U" command. My fault was not fixing the Controller with ALL 6 screws back in place. Reading again and again over the first Post in this Topic helped me a lot. Best wishes for your HD recovery...
  4. I ordered me a new Western Digital HD today and will keep the Seagate for useless stuff as 2nd HD. Still, i dont know how to thank this forum and especially this thread that helped me getting my data back. Short Summary of my Story so far: -Bought a CA-42 China Cable as i dont have any computer with an RS-232 Port and it seemed quite convenient. -CA-42 Clone didnt work out because lack of knowledge on my side or the cable itself -Bought a USB-TTL Converter online (2 endless days + 14 Euros for me) 1. Soldered TX/RX Cables to the Converter 2. Tried the "Loop" test in Hyperterminal = perfect, i see the echo 3. Connected the TX/RX to the HD, pressed Ctrl+Z = nothing 4. Swapped TX/RX connections, pressed Ctrl+Z = Nothing 5. Learned that i also have to connect the GRND Cable from the USB->TTL converter to the HD 6. Connection is now working, i can communicate with the HD after Ctrl+Z 7. As the Power cables of the HD are quite short, i had to place HD in an upright position. What i did, was dismounting the Controller from the HD and fixed it back with only 1 Screw. What I thought: When the moment comes and the frog jumps into the water (german phrase), means to pull the cardboard, i simply press the controller to the HD to make contact which should be sufficient. But i was wrong! After pulling the cardboard, pressing the Controller to the HD, trying to spin up the HD the Board was getting ridicously hot (i nearly burned my fingers) and the HD was making the Clicking Sound of Death. FCUCK FCUCK FCUCK! Hyperterminal displayed several error messages, Read/Write Errors/Errorcodes etc. Power off... 8. Took a deep breath. 9. Read along in the forums and learned that nearly every Screw on the Controller is a Ground connection. If the Screws are not in Place, the Drive Motor does not have enough Power for a full pull and fall back contiunally which is causing the clicking noise (Very simplified). 10. The Frog jumps again, i pulled the cardboard, holded the PCB in place, fixed ALL screws back in place, spinned up the Motor + all additional commands and FCUCK YEAH it`s alive! My Solution out of this process: RTFM! (First Post etc.) And again: THANK YOU FOLKS!
  5. As my machine is not under warranty any more, i`ll buy a new HD. So you think for the next days i will be fine with the "repaired" HD until i got a new one?
  6. WOOOOOOOHA! I dont know how to thank you! My disk is up and running again! I`m currently doing a backup of the system but want to update the firmware later. Is there a recommendation which firmware to choose for the following HD: ST3500620AS current Firmware: HP24
  7. Hi Mundy5, Prolific is the manufacturer, right! There was a CD included in the package and i installed the driver prior to connecting the cable. Hardware Monitor is not showing any yellow ?. Most of the times i get "Can not connect to COM Port" Errors from Hyperterminal, but after 5-10 tries i have a connection but no loop response whatever i try. I also looked up the System Monitor for Processes that are listening on com ports but everything seems to be fine. I tried the cable on my Netbook and the Laptop from my Girl, same result on all USB Ports, all bps Settings, all Protocols, all cable connections... I asked in several Shops (it kept me busy all day...) for a original Nokia CA-42, but failed. They all only have the clone. Hopefully things get better with the USB-TTL Board.
  8. Hi @All from Germany! Yesterday my Seagate 7200.11 bricked. After i read all night long why it hook up and what can be done, i stumbled by 4 AM over this forum. At 9AM i went to the local Radio Shack to get me a Nokia Data Cable which was not so easy as this specific cable is only used by the older series from Nokia. Anyway... I opened the USB Connector with the big "MADE IN CHINA" Sticker on it and of course: no writing on the PCB and 5 cables. One of the cables was isolated and i measured that this is the 3.3V Cable (makes sense). So i started Hyper Terminal, entered the needed Settings and tried cable by cable to get a "loop" and to find out which is TX/RX. I ended up testing all possible variations of settings in Hyperterminal and all possible Cable connections (beside the live one) and in about 100 tries i had ONE loop (makes NO sense). Frustrating... I think the data cable is not working properly or was defective out-of-the-box or whatever. I just ordered a USB->TTL converter and hope this will work... The data on the HD is very valuable for me (pics etc.) so i also phoned some professional Data Recovery Services. They all acted like this problem is totally new and very uncommon, but offered me their services for 200-500 Euros. I did not went through all Pages of this Thread (but mostly), but can someone confirm that the China Cable sometimes fail? On the PCB of the Cable is 2303HX Chip, maybe that is of help? Sorry for my English! I surely will ask more questions after the USB->TTL converter arrived :-) Thanks!
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