jcarle
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Posts posted by jcarle
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If you're still having a lot of trouble uninstalling Norton because of a corrupted install, you can also run the Norton Removal Tool which will remove all traces of Norton products.
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Maxtor hard drives have a notoriously bad reputation. My suggestion would be to test your hard drive using the Maxtor/Seagate utility to make sure it's not defective. The easiest way to do so would be to, either yourself or at a friend's house, download the UBCD from one of the many download sites and boot from it. Once booted to that CD, you'll be able to go into the menu option for the Maxtor/Seagate diagnostics which will allow you to test your hard drive.
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You could also use the Windows Updates Downloader with a user contributed UL for Windows 7.
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As Tripredacus mentioned, censoring certain words simply encourages our members to with some literary creativitism.
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I really wish you guys would stop jumping to conclusions and ask for additional information before throwing OPs on goose chases.
D_Block, if you could try to collect as much information as possible for us, it would help us give you the most effective steps to help diagnose your issue:
The brand and wattage of your power supply.
The brand and model of your motherboard.
The brand and model of your hard drive.
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If your computer runs in IDE comptability mode, no additional drivers are needed. You only need SATA drivers if you computer is in AHCI mode. I honestly am not sure for your computer which one it is, though I'm leaning towards IDE compatibility.
Someone you could try, if you know someone who has a spare SATA hard drive they could lend you, you could unplug your hard drive and use the borrowed one to "practice" formatting your computer and find out what drivers you're missing to do so.
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I'd also like to point out that Windows 7 offers both file burning and ISO burning out-of-the-box.
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I personally have never been a fan of "dirtying" the power grid when ethernet cable costs as little as 12 cents per foot.
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Something like an ATI Radeon HD 4650 PCI-E video card should do the trick as it will also integrate audio into your HDMI connection.
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You may also want to look at getting a router at each office that offers VPN tunneling as this would allow you to bridge both networks into a single seemless network that's location transparent.
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This has been fixed now. Sorry for the delay.
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Our regular UL contributor can no longer maintain his position for personal reasons, as such I'm looking for someone who's willing to step up to replace him. There is additional incentive that I will discuss with applicants who are serious in their desire to do so. Please send me a PM here and I'll respond. Thank you.
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I have implemented this fix, it will be available with the next published revision of WUD.
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Although downloading or duplicating music may be legal in Canada, what you fail to realise is that although Section 80 of Bill C-32 certaintly may state as such, if you read sections 81 and 82 of the same bill, you'll notice that the consequences for such freedom are dire: "eligible authors, eligible performers and eligible makers have a right to receive remuneration from manufacturers and importers of blank audio recording media in respect of the reproduction for private use of [a] a musical work embodied in a sound recording; a performer's performance of a musical work embodied in a sound recording; or [c] a sound recording in which a musical work, or a performer's performance of a musical work, is embodied." - Bill C-32
In other words, because we are allowed to be promiscuous pirates we have to pay extra for anything that could ever be conceivably used to store music in any form, whether we buy it from within Canada or get it imported from outside of Canada. So anything from a blank cassette tape to a blank DVD-R will incur additional charges and possibly may eventually be extended to hard drives.
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Linksys WRT310N is my recommendation. Combined with a matching Linksys wireless N adapter. USB and PCI offer similar performance.
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My recommendation is to spend a bit more and get yourself a blu-ray burner. Specifically, the Pioneer BDR-203.
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There's a lot of debate about bumping. I, for one, detest people who bump threads. We all get a chance to see everyone's threads and if people who see the thread feel inclined to reply, they do. Bumping often does not change that.
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You can also build a brand new complete PC using quality parts for less then $400.
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Just as an FYI, the Q9650, Q9550, Q9450, QX9775, QX9770, QX9650 all have 12MB of cache.and the 6MB cache is as big as it gets.....0 -
Prefer Windows 3.1 because it doesn't come with a bloated task manager that hogs system resources with it's graphical processor charts.
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$85 is highway robery for something as simple as that. This guy rambles on way too much, but it's a good example video on how you can change your CPU very easily yourself :
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[*]occasionally makes my audio skip when it has to play the "BoomP!" sound
That's more likely a driver issue then a UAC issue.
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Building a computer is like building a house. The stronger your foundation, the bigger the house you can build on top of it.
I'd suggest you start off by getting yourself a quality motherboard that allows some good upgradability options and is stable for overclocking if you want to eventually do that as well, something like the Asus P5Q Deluxe is what I would recommend.
You also need a better power supply because you won't get very far with 250w. Something like the Antec TruePower 550w would be reliable and strong enough to support a good gaming video card, plenty of ram, a few hard drives and a powerful processor in the future.
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Also, try changing the SATA data cable.
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Computer won't reboot with black screen
in Windows Vista
Posted · Edited by jcarle
Seeing that the boot sequence ends with "disk boot failure insert system disk", that's unlikely. It could be that the hard drive is intermittently failing and that repeated power cycling eventually allows it to boot.
@clairehh:
If you could provide us with as much information about your computer as possible, that would really help us out. If you have a recovery disk, then it sounds like you have a branded computer, something like a Dell, HP or Gateway? Can you find a model number on your computer as well?