puntoMX

You also buy a pair of shoes because they look cool? Go to your local shop and buy one there, or, get something like a R.A.T. and adjust it to your likes. Get a gamer mouse for sure. I have a Corsair M40 that I bought online too. Local shops don't have anything other than cheap build mice or if you are lucky one from Microsoft or Logitech. The mouse is okay but I had to get used to the shape and fit. I need a precision mouse for drawing 3D objects and use it up to 14 hours a day. Next mouse would be a R.A.T. 7 or so, I see them less than 100USD at the time of writing. The wireless R.A.T. 9 is 80USD. Reviews on mice are personal, like computer cases. It just fits you or not. -Ronald

Just use the 500MHz PIII and see if it runs at 333MHz on that mobo. If so you have a few MMX and some other functions extra but that's all you can get out of it.

Yes, it will.

Perfect, let me know the time difference when you render 1080p or 2160p . Image quality to your monitor also improves, zoom in adobe also will improve, and a few things more. It's hard to say whit idle power consumption of the GTX670 is, but it around 10W so 11W from your power outlet. At idle you won't get more noise from your PC.

Get it, install it and sit back, you will palm-slap yourself for hours when you see the diference! I don't know what version of Vegas you use, but I believe from 11 and up it's using openCL. This is what Sony says about it:

Hello Nerwin, You're still fine with the system you have there. But, do not edit from the SSD, you will only shorten its life. That said, what software titles are you using? Most video and photo editing software will benefit greatly from a dedicated video card as it will render on the GPU, freeing up the CPU. Also, a GPU does way more flops/calculations-a-second than a CPU. I't not for nothing all those coiners (bitcoin and the bull ) are using video card to hatch ​ . I can't believe you didn't have a dedicated video card already! -Ronald

Yes, looks like a bad southbridge to me.

Check for BIOS updates from Dell, it most-likely will tell what quad-core CPUs are compatible.

The application the OP is talking about let you enter the BIOS without pushing a button, and it's the BIOS indeed and not the EUFI on older motherboards or "BIOS" versions. Some motherboards won't let you enter the EUFI or BIOS when you have an USB keyboard although some USB keyboard might actually work. Using a PS/2 keyboard will solve this problem (yep, been there, done that... price you pay for being an overclocker/tweaker ). Ow, and dual BIOS is just an auto-backup BIOS; works well, even fools will have a hard time messing up a motherboard with dual BIOS . 3D BIOS is just a graphical "explication" to the new "geek", "tweaker" or "overclocker"; waste of usefulness . Just marketing stuff. (this is a side-note for the people who don't know the trademarks mentioned).

You need to use the jumper. What I normally do (or did better to say): Power off, disconnect from power-outlet Move the jumper from 1-2 to 2-3 and push on/off button a few times to make sure the capacitors in your PC are discharged as much as it can be Power on, don't forget to connect to the power-outlet See if that helped, if not, goto 1.The jumper is located just above the lower PCI slot, about in the middle of it, called CLR_CMOS, 1-2 is normal mode, 2-3 is reset mode. If it doesn't work after a few times your chipset likely is gone. Also, disconnect your front USB ports and check the rear ones for broken connectors.

Could be, but you most likely had shutdowns before a 100% fail. Did you reset the BIOS? Dual BIOS or not, but there is a big chance it hangs on the BIOS (before VGA init so to say).

Did you try a BIOS reset? Was it connected to the Internet and if so, what virus/malware protection was used?

Replaced with a bad screen or cable indeed, hard to tell. Good the "newer" LCD screens with LED backlight have a more standard plug these days but the older, CCFL, ones can be a pain to test on another laptop. Clean the contacts on the cable connector, that might help.

7mm Is the standard these days, the 9mm ones are out it seems. And, for sure a 7mm fit's in a 9mm hole . Now you might call me an name, but I told Jeremy to get a pencil eraser, the classic red one, and clean the contacts with it. Let's see if that helps.

The "older" 4k screens has indeed the problems with the left and right screen build up, but the Samsung is the latest model and much has been learned in this small time window. Crossfire (X) isn't worth it indeed, too much trouble. If you need the speed you are better of buying a single card (with 2GPUs if needed). The latest games want you to have 3GB and no wonder if you look at the new GTA game.

Both the GPU and APU should be able to work with 4K, all depends on some factors: The BIOS/Firmware should be able to work with 4k, if one or both doesn't like the 2160p resolution then flash it (be careful with that, there is a small chance you will brick the GPU, the motherboard is easier to flash). Using the latest drivers is always a must like Tripredacus pointed out. You need to to use the right connectors/cables on your cards, and there is the tricky part. You never know what works although it should work. You might end up with a 30Hz screen build up while 60 or better is recommended. The monitor supports up to 60Hz. To make use of the 60Hz you need to use the displayport.

I would not defrag it, just copy the data on a local computer, format the SD and copy back the data on it. Also run a anti-virus program while you are at it. Clean the contacts with an pencil eraser so they are shiny again.

Darn, all that extra you get when you think it's only printing in black? So it does do yellow dots as well! What a bonus . Now, make sure you are wearing your clean-suit, mask and your gloves, using the most commercial ones made in China to make it harder tracking you down. Only buy your paper at Walmart and don't forget to put up those aluminum foal heads. I'm sure Jaclaz has some better tips than this .

Thanks Jaclaz for the additional info . I also wanted to add that if you can set the date on your printer you might be screwed even more as some printers, like HP all in one (like you want to live in your mobile home and use it to go to the grocery store as well with it?), have an expire date for the cartridges as well. Man, don't you want to put that behind your rear-wheel of your truck and backup? I know we sound like ink-jet/bubble-jet haters (Jaclaz thinks they are a nice device ) but the are simply un-economical, well, for the consumer that is .

Well, this is what I've seen over the last 11.5 years living in a country where 99.9% of the people do NOT buy new or original cartridges: You can buy good ink from eBay (US) but you have to select the right ink. The external systems are okay with the autoreset fuction. But, then you have an Epson, it will stop to work after 25k sheets of paper that went trough the printer, printed on them or not; you have to change the waste collector, some sponge in the back of your printer, and reset the firmware to 0 prints. What a joy isn't it? I can tell that other manufacturers do the same crap. With other words, if you want to print cheap, get a laser colour printer; period! Get a good used one, one for office use and that has a good capacity cartridge (say 5k per color) and buy any brand cartridge that fits the printer if the toner (die) is done. Refilling stuff brings you nowhere if you want to have quality prints. Inkjet/Bubblejet is real expensive. I've had customers that had bought a cheap, 30USD, printer and needed to buy 15USD cartridges (times 2 (B/CYM) or times 4 (B/C/Y/M)) to print just 200 pages. Most of those customers didn't need color printing at all so the went for a cheap Samsung laser printer that would spit out 1000 to 1500 pages with a 45USD cartridge. I gave away all of my inkjet printers after 3 months of use as I could not stand them, not even the deskpro ones from HP, what a junk. I bought different samsung laser printers, modded the firmware to make it autoreset itself after a powerup and refilled the cartridges 2 to 3 times and that worked well fo so-so prints. But to tell you the truth, also they went out the door as I don't need the color and I went for another Samsung (TallyGenicom 9330ND) printer that has a 8k page cartridge and I'm happy with that one although it's just black that it prints. The cartridges can be found for 60USD on eBay, rebuild or no-name aftermarket. For my color prints I walk into officedepot and print for 1.1USD a page, that is 3 times a letter size, at photo quality. Anyway, those are just my $0.02 .

Im using a sentey ds1 4246. It has 2 coolers (i put an 140mm one.) in the back part , and 1 in the front. 2 on the left side. Those side-fans are only making noise, don't do much to the airflow. The fan at the back should blow out. Do you use the original 160W real output Powersupply that came with the case?

All is absolutely normal. If you have on idle state 95ºC or more, then would be something very wrong. Not if the image start to freeze (he calls it lag). Sure there are more factors than the CPU itself but let's face it, those stock AMD coolers are not that great for gaming.

If you don't overclock that motherboard is fine, but yes, I would get some aftermarket cooler from like CoolerMaster, just make sure it fits in your case. What more fans do you have in that case and what case are you using?

Stock fans of AMD are no good indeed, they are only made for office work and browsing the net. Also make sure you have at least one (120mm) fan sucking the hot air out of the case. When I was building system I always installed the CPU cooler on the motherboard before putting the motherboard into the case. This way I could see if the cooler was fit well and that there was no air-gap between cooler and CPU. It's easy to see if you look at it from different sides of the cooler holding it against the light. The motherboard is also made for office applications and sure not for gaming. Make sure that the voltage regulators next to the CPU are cooled well (eg. use a fan to suck or blow air over them, normally placed at the back of the case). What you can do is setting the CPU fan not on Quiet trough the EUFI/BIOS or software but I think it's set okay; the CPU on idle shows you that the CPU fan runs at 3200rpm.

On the systems I have and had it always showed the the same with HDMI as with VGA or DVI out.