Motherboard front panel header and case front panel connectors don&#39

[vipejc]

BWAHAHAHAH!!! That's STILL correct even if UPSIDE-DOWN!

1-2-3-4 (pinouts.ru)

4-3-2-1 (yours upside-down)

Actually, it's pins 4, 3, 2, 1, but I could be wrong about the port orientation switching the pins around, though it makes perfect sense. I wasn't trying to play mind games.

Mine are "sideways" - does that make them all "1-1-1-1" or would that be "4-4-4-4"?

If a Commercial Jet flips over, does the Pilot/Copilot Seats magically "reverse" (or "mirror")?

Care to play a game of Star Trek 3-D Chess with me?

Have you ever dated Lindsay Lohan?

[/snarks]

Ennyhoo, you've been specifically answered. I'm betting it's a "coloration bubble" from when the plastic part of the component was molded over the contacts. Same thing can happen when Fiberglass is mixed and spread (check out some aftermarket fiberglass automobile products).

Thanks for all your help. I got what I needed. I suggest you be more polite to people you want to help. You certainly don't know it all, as does nobody. No hard feelings.

[Tripredacus]

I just tore up a USB port. There is no metal inside the plastic. Other than if you break it enough you will see the pins from the other side.

Regarding the ports arrangement, there is no "up or down" standard when manufacturers put together their cases. For the most part, they may have a quality control measure to make sure all ports are facing the same direction for the entire production line, but it does widely vary as far as which way they are facing when they have a vertical orientation in a case.

Thanks so much for doing that. What do you suppose this anonymous metallic defect could be? I highly doubt it's solder, as that's white, not metallic. It appears to be a slight indent from a scratch where a round portion of metal shows.

A co-worker said that he had accidently broken the USB port in his notebook and it did have metal under the plastic. Not the case in the one I tore up tho, so I can't say for sure.

[vipejc]

I just tore up a USB port. There is no metal inside the plastic. Other than if you break it enough you will see the pins from the other side.

Regarding the ports arrangement, there is no "up or down" standard when manufacturers put together their cases. For the most part, they may have a quality control measure to make sure all ports are facing the same direction for the entire production line, but it does widely vary as far as which way they are facing when they have a vertical orientation in a case.

Thanks so much for doing that. What do you suppose this anonymous metallic defect could be? I highly doubt it's solder, as that's white, not metallic. It appears to be a slight indent from a scratch where a round portion of metal shows.

A co-worker said that he had accidently broken the USB port in his notebook and it did have metal under the plastic. Not the case in the one I tore up tho, so I can't say for sure.

It's okay. I'm not going to get a better answer. I'll either use it knowing there's a high chance of no problem, or I'll never use it and use the one to the right. I just needed to know before potentially damaging expensive USB devices.

[submix8c]

and it's slightly indented and appears as a chip, not solder.

Electronics Forum...

Yes, virtually all epoxies & most other glues are completely non conductive when dry, unless specifically stated otherwise.

In fact, epoxy is often the material of choice for high voltage insulating jobs. It's also what most circuit boards are made of.

Get some, mix it, smear flat with a piece of paper and let dry. DONE! Problem solved!

Go ahead, keep it up, ignore practical solutions.

BTW, yes, I DO know more than you, as well as most other long-time knowledgeable members.

P.S. Liquid Fiberglass works the same way (non-conductive).

[vipejc]

and it's slightly indented and appears as a chip, not solder.

Electronics Forum...

Yes, virtually all epoxies & most other glues are completely non conductive when dry, unless specifically stated otherwise.

In fact, epoxy is often the material of choice for high voltage insulating jobs. It's also what most circuit boards are made of.

Get some, mix it, smear flat with a piece of paper and let dry. DONE! Problem solved!

Go ahead, keep it up, ignore practical solutions.

BTW, yes, I DO know more than you, as well as most other long-time knowledgeable members.

P.S. Liquid Fiberglass works the same way (non-conductive).

It's not a practical solution. Ask 100 people if they have a jar of epoxy in their house, and you'd be lucky if one did. And I wouldn't touch that idea. I'm not an assembly factory. I could cause more harm than good. Where did I ever say I knew more than you? And where is this coming from? You know some things and I know some things. Jaclaz has corrected you a few times here, and there's been many times in this thread you've made an error, but I didn't say anything. But again, thanks for your help and try to understand that not everybody knows the same things. If I ask a question, it's because I have a tough problem I can't solve and so I call on others who just might have the answer. I also believe in answering a question after I ask one, as that's common courtesy. You really suck at this computer support thing. Now, before you get mad, yell at me, put me down, accuse me of being a spammer, and do your usual song and dance, take this advice and improve, or just don't help at all.

Edited January 11, 2013 by vipejc

[submix8c]

Yes, it is a practical solution. Epoxy doesn't come in jars.

Autozone - Plastic Epoxy (2-part tube) $5.95

1/2 PartA, 1/2 PartB - the container has a "plunger" that allows both parts to be dispensed onto (e.g.) Cardboard and any stick (e.g. toothpick) can be used to stir well., at which time it can be carefully and evenly spread thus filling the imperfection and ensuring (to soothe your irrational paranoia) that there will be no "bare metal" (or whatever).

Epoxy can be purchased at any Retail Auto Parts Outlet, Hardware Store, or even probably Kroger's. I do believe you can find it at (OMG!) Dollar Stores. I've used it many a time in Autobody Repair (yep, and I can paint them too). I've also used it to repair a (OMG!) Home Appliance (dryer).

Your buckets of arguments still leak... Are you relation to Piers Morgan?

[vipejc]

Yes, it is a practical solution. Epoxy doesn't come in jars.

Autozone - Plastic Epoxy (2-part tube) $5.95

1/2 PartA, 1/2 PartB - the container has a "plunger" that allows both parts to be dispensed onto (e.g.) Cardboard and any stick (e.g. toothpick) can be used to stir well., at which time it can be carefully and evenly spread thus filling the imperfection and ensuring (to soothe your irrational paranoia) that there will be no "bare metal" (or whatever).

Epoxy can be purchased at any Retail Auto Parts Outlet, Hardware Store, or even probably Kroger's. I do believe you can find it at (OMG!) Dollar Stores. I've used it many a time in Autobody Repair (yep, and I can paint them too). I've also used it to repair a (OMG!) Home Appliance (dryer).

Your buckets of arguments still leak... Are you relation to Piers Morgan?

Really? Let me call 10 random people in the phone book and ask them if they have epoxy lying around the house... The results...not one had epoxy in the house. Oh sure, you can purchase it almost anywhere. That wasn't my point. My point was very few people have epoxy just lying around the house. And more to the point, I'm not applying epoxy to a USB port and potentially damaging devices playing DIYer. Sounds like it just make the situation worse, really. I feel secure that USB port is 100% safe to use, as the defect is only on the face of the plastic tongue and there's nothing touching the defect that could cause damage. Thank you to Trip and you for your help, but go play flame wars with somebody else, maroon.

[Tripredacus]

I thought things would just settle down but I guess not.

This wraps things up I suppose. Settle down.